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Thread Sealants? What is best for this application?

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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 05:25 PM
  #1  
jensenracing77's Avatar
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Thread Sealants? What is best for this application?

I am installing my water control valve on my W-30 engine but ran into a problem. The water control valves tightens up at 180 degrees away from the proper alignment. I will not be able to go around that must farther. When I back it off to the proper spot it is very loose. I have always used Permatex 80631 #14 Thread Sealant with Teflon with good results but not sure if it will work for this. Not sure what sealer to use that will take up that much clearance in the threads? Any recommendations?
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 05:33 PM
  #2  
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Wow, I'm surprised that a half turn would make a joint that loose. Lots - o - teflon tape.
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 05:49 PM
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Doesn't sound like normal pipe thread behavior to me. You should be able to get another half a turn out of it easy.

- Eric
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 05:59 PM
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Yep, should be able to get another half turn.
Maybe a different wrench setup with more leverage or another bowl of wheaties...
I always used Permatex #2 in these threads, but if it is loose, it will leak no matter what you put on it. The Permatex even lubes the thread enough so you should be able to crank it to the right spot.
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Doesn't sound like normal pipe thread behavior to me. You should be able to get another half a turn out of it easy.

- Eric
That was my first thought. I think someone in the past has over tightened it. when it gets tight it stops and I am sure i will break something if I try to go farther. It does not progressively get tighter till the last 1/4 turn but after that 1/4 turn it is done.
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
Yep, should be able to get another half turn.
Maybe a different wrench setup with more leverage or another bowl of wheaties...
I always used Permatex #2 in these threads, but if it is loose, it will leak no matter what you put on it. The Permatex even lubes the thread enough so you should be able to crank it to the right spot.
I think it would break the ear on the aluminum manifold.
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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Maybe i should get a pipe tap and tap it just a little deeper?
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 06:39 PM
  #8  
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Try wrapping it with a ton of teflon tape - it can sometimes take up enough space to back you up half a turn or so.

- Eric
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 06:45 PM
  #9  
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Hey eric

maybe try a layer or two of teflon tape continuous un roll around the threads to solve your plumbing??



best o luck
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #10  
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Sounds kinda like the threads were buggered then, so do not force it.
Maybe try the whole-lotta teflon trick first.
Any chance to try a different valve which may have the threads in a different place in relation to the outlet?
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 07:55 PM
  #11  
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If you get a 6 foot cheater pipe on a pipe wrench, I bet you can get another half turn. I just had to fool with you Eric. I think that were some good ideas offered above. Good luck on it.
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 08:05 PM
  #12  
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Red threadlocker, but you'll need a torch to get it back off.
Old May 1, 2014 | 08:43 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Red threadlocker, but you'll need a torch to get it back off.
This is what I am leaning to. We use red at work in a lot if brass applications. I was going to try the Teflon tape real thick last night but just worried it will leak over time. If red loctight don't work, I hope the leak shows up on the dyno. I don't want to fix it after the car is done.


Thanks guys
Old May 1, 2014 | 08:47 AM
  #14  
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You just need to clean the threads really well before using it and let it set.
Old May 1, 2014 | 09:50 AM
  #15  
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I have good luck with Permatex Form-A-Gasket No. 2 Sealant on these heater control valves.

The heater control valve may end up at more like 30 to 20 degrees though, instead of the 45 degrees as shown in the assembly manual.
Old May 1, 2014 | 03:48 PM
  #16  
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Sounds like you need to run a pipe tap down the hole and clean it out, the farther you run the tap in on pipe thread the bigger the hole gets and allows the fitting to go in deeper/turn farther when installed.
If you do this test fit the valve several times as you can over do it. I have had to do this many times over the years for different things.
Old May 19, 2014 | 06:35 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jag1886
Sounds like you need to run a pipe tap down the hole and clean it out, the farther you run the tap in on pipe thread the bigger the hole gets and allows the fitting to go in deeper/turn farther when installed.
If you do this test fit the valve several times as you can over do it. I have had to do this many times over the years for different things.
that seems like a good proper way to solve the issue.

Or, a crowfoot line wrench may get you the increased torque needed w/o damage to the valve or intake. Not sure they make one that big real handy though...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10pc-...item43c9e6fb7e
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