Going to be pulling the engine soon to detail engine compartment and paint engine in my 68 442. This will be my first time yanking a motor so I thought I'd come here for any tips or advice on things to watch for/be aware of. Any input would be appreciated, thanks.

 

If its automatic unbolt converter from flexplate. Support transmission. Label wires and vacuum lines.
I would also consider replacing engine freeze plugs while it is out.
Watch out for MAWs.

 

With the engine out, high on the list of MAW's is a new timing set and a cleanout of the oil pump screen.


Gerry

 

If I was pulling the motor I go ahead and pull the trans with it.I think it would be easier.
railguy

 

Read it and weep:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ing-motor.html

- Eric

 

I've always done most my work alone so I would always double and triple check my work, thinking one step ahead of Murphys Law helps..also take photos if necessary and be patient.

 

Lift engine a little. Stop. Check everything. Lower engine back down to disconnect
what you forgot. Do this x3. Then remove engine.

 

And rear main seal... and oil pan gasket... oh, and with the pan off, better check the main bearings... oh, and valve seals are probably a good idea...

You see where this is going...

Do be sure to unbolt all ground straps before you yank the motor.

 

Yeah. Thus my post above...

- Eric

 

Pulling the clip makes this job MUCH easier. And your less likely to damage the sheet metal and paint with the dog house at a safe distance from the thrashing and the errant wrench or socket throwing thats inevitable. You can get at both sides of the core support easier too. The core support bushings are likely shot anyway.
Put a HD moving blanket over the windshield. Tape it in place.

If you decide to not remove the dog house then start with removing the radiator, condenser if so equipped and the grill. The grills fragile as hell and you know you'll be putting a knee through it. Also remove the distributor. They have a habit of whacking the firewall on the way out. I like to remove the trans with the engine when ever possible... MAW detail the trans too...A little power wash and wa-la like new trans!
Good time to change your heater core and blower motor too...
Ahhh the MAWs are ripe and abundant.

 

make sure you don't turn the distributor when you yank the motor. It may be easier for you to remove the radiator before you pull the engine so you have some more clearance and you won't risk damaging the radiator. Label all nuts and bolts in separate baggies. Take pictures if you have to. Also make sure all your grounding straps are removed.

 

If you are going to pull it with the tranny (easier in my opinion) than make sure you have a Tail shaft end cap plug. like this.

 

Voilà

 

seriously take the radiator out, send this to be boiled out and pressure tested, cheap...

Yes pulling with tranny may be easier but more unwieldy, it does give you oppourtunity to detail as well...

exhaust is going to be a pia, make sure you get ready for stubborn bolts etc .

Pick up a couple of giant bags of cat litter as you are going to spill fluids....

invest in an adjutable engine load lift balancer.

Safety Shoes

engine stand cheapo harbor freight type, a cheapo cart for the tranny ( maybe borrow one from pathmark)

I do think the other suggestions are excellent now, especially the timing chain, checking the bearings etc this can be done with plastigauge) you clean all the junk in the pan and it isn't a big deal... plus you can detail the engine at the same time...

 

Don't get in a hurry, if there is something that needs to be done while the engine is out (MAW), do it. You won't be sorry. It's better to have it right than right now.

 

Buy one of Rob's MAW helmuts.

 

Thanks for all the replies, I gotta ask though, what is MAW short for? And how difficult is taking off the front clip? I'm fairly mechanically inclined but to be honest removing the front clip sounds a little intimidating to me. I would like to pull engine and tranny together I'm just nervous I'll booger something up. Thanks again.

 

Might As Well.

- Eric

 

Removal of the front clip is as easy as unbolting, provided you dont have any salt belt rust. Mark everything and take pics so you can get it to line up when you reassemble it. Bag and tag everything. Put all shims & washers back in their exact location in which they were removed.
Have a safe place to lay out or store the sheet metal parts to avoid damage which is why you removed them in the first place.
Remove the hood then the fenders with the inner wheel wells still attached. Then go at the core support grill bumper etc...Or just take your chances and leave it alone and yank the engine. Ive done it both ways. With nice sheet metal & paint I like to remove it. If Im just yanking a engine in a driver then I leave it on.
Harbor Junk has moving blankets cheap.

 

Rocket man, pulling the engine is not that hard. I did it before even knowing about timing or how to time an engine, not trying to toot my own horn but actually saying that even a newb to stuff like this can do it.

Watch youtube videos to help you, I watched a youtube video on pulling a 350 from a Holden to build up my confidence. It is really not that bad if you walk yourself through all the steps a few times before you begin.

For the sake of time I wouldn't worry about pulling the front clip unless you are super worried about bumping the engine into the sides. Just remove the radiator and be sure to put all bolts in plastic baggies and label them during removal. I did not remove the transmission when I pulled the engine as I felt that would put a lot of additional leverage and strain on the lift. I have heard it is easier to pull both at the same time but I chose to leave the engine in the car and that is OK. It is very easy to do just disconnect the engine from the trans bellhousing and the torque converter (again, watch videos). Once you have the Trans disconnected, and assuming your engine mounts and other connections are disconnected you should be able to scoot the engine forward a bit while lifting and take it straight out. Make sure your mounting bolts are secure (the bolts you hang the chain on) and make sure you have an equal amount of chain on both sides of the engine so that it hangs level. If it does not hang level when you pull it you might end up having to ride your engine down into the engine bay to get the leverage you will need to reconnect it to the trans. Honestly the hardest part of the process is getting the engine back in the car, as you'll need to jack the transmission up to get the engine to reconnect.

This is the video series I watched: I just didn't pull the distributor.

Good luck!