I'm ready to pull the body off the frame of my '69 442, but I don't know how to set the body up without a frame. I don't want to hurt the body and I don't have a body stand. I'll be pulling the body off using a tractor (yes I know very redneck). But what can I place the body onto so that I don't damage it?

 

I used heavy duty jack stands and 4x4s. Positioned them under the cowl and the rear kick-up.

 

I set mine on strong wooden saw horses at the same points as the picture above. Since the front point is lower on the body the body was tilted up in front but everything lined up nice when I put it back on and it was enough room to work on the body underneath. This was a convertible body so it is pretty flexible.

 

I pulled mine off by balancing it and lifting it with a pallet lifter, and stood it on piles of paving stones and 4x4s. Put it back on the frame with a forklift and more some 2x4s.

 

Thanks for the input guys!!!! When I lift this off is it ok just to lift by the roof?

 

I did so, and the windshield still fits. My body was completely stripped, mind you. Empty gas tank on it, that's it.

 

Mine is stripped almost all the way. I have not taken the dash assy. out thought. But the doors, glass, trunk lid and all other interior is off/out. When you picked it up did you do it from the front or side?

 

From the side.

 

I know it's done but I don't like picking them up by the roof. Use the cowl and put a chain through one bolt of the upper door hinges. Loop the chain from one side to the other if you need you to. If you use a tractor, lift the front with the tractor and the rear with an engine crane. I built a cart of out wood to sit the body on. I also used wheels so it could be moved easily.
Brian

 

Sweet! Thanks!

 

When you lift the back with a shop crane how did you connect to the body?

 

Lift with the chains and a spreader bar by the two holes in the trunk there are covers to pop out they are about 3 foot apart look at the last two pages of my restore and it shows how I did it

 

I lifted the body while still on the frame by jacking the car up with floor jacks under the frame, diff, etc. Then I put 6 gallon drums with boards on them under the quarter pinchwelds behind the rear wheels, and made a big A frame like a sawhorse that bolted to the firewall reinforcements that support the body mounts. I had already removed the doghouse. Then I could remove the body mount bolts and lower the frame with wheels on it, and roll it out.

 

What I did was juack up the back of the body a little, remove the rear rubber body mounts and had a loop of chain bolted to those rear mounts on the body. I placed a heavy blanket against the body and brought the chains up. I also bolted a section of flat bar between the chains to act as a spreader bar. Similar to what Eddie did but I didn't go through the trunk plugs in the trunk floor.

 

Man, I bow to you guys!! Especially you 69442C!!! The things you built in your shop are next to freaking amazing!! Was that 2 inch tube steel that you used?

 

Thanks. Yes, that was 2" square tube for the uprights and bar across the top. The uprights are welded to 1/8" plate that is bolted to the 3" square tube base. I use that same base for other fixtures too. I have a 69 442 Conv restoration thread in the Major Builds section and I have those other fixtures in that thread.
Brian

 

I used a floor jack 4x4's across, and a lot of blocking. When I supported it front and rear I used three locations like this. When I supported it over the rear wheels I used just two locations. The body really isn't that heavy. I'd guess 800-1000 lbs