Hello,

On my 67 Olds Cutlass Supreme, when I turn the key back to the left for the "ACC", there's no power. I checked the switch and I don't see a lead for "ACC". Is there a switch I can buy that has that option for my Olds and if so, where would I need to get power from for that lead? I looked for a thread on here that might could help me out but I didn't see one on this site.

 

There are 2 leads off the switch, they should be brown and brown/white wires. You should have power to the radio, heater blower, windshield wiper, and power window/antenna fuses with the ignition switch in accy. The turn signals should work and the temp warning light should be lit.

 

Do you know if the ignition switch has ever been changed out? Or if there's been any buggering on the dash wiring? It would surprise me if it hasn't been on a 60s A-body car. Those were the years of 8-tracks, gage clusters and CB radios hanging off the dash after all. "Man I gotta find me a hot wire to hook up this tape player I got at KMart!"

Factory switch p/n from Nov 73 factory parts book: Group 2.188 p/n 1116685, switch (less lock cylinder) 1966-67 all. So one listed for a Cutlass, big car or Toronado will work.

Get hold of an original HARDCOPY 1967 Olds factory Chassis Service Manual if you don't have one. It will have color wiring diagrams that will help you troubleshoot this problem. Reprints aren't that great and the CD and digital versions are near useless on the wiring and transmission diagrams.

 

Thanks guys. I will definitely follow up.

 

You sure that shouldn't be the GEN light, on real dim?

 

Your right, sorry was lookin at the schematic through my phone.

 

After we just told our new friend to beware of the digital stuff too!! Have mercy...🙀

I still haven't figured out how to find that stuff on this phone. It has a more powerful computer than the space shuttle had. And all I really want it to do is talk/text/browse.

 

The lubricant inside the switch can harden if the vehicle sat for a long period of time and not make electrical contact inside the switch when turned to ACC position. This can happen a lot on 50 plus year old cars. The switch will still need to be replaced if that happens even though nothing is wrong with the wiring.

 

He talks like there's no wire for ACC terminal. That's why I asked if the switch had been replaced or boogered with.

On those switches, once you have the lock cylinder out, contact cleaner will correct a corroded switch and then a dab of dielectric grease or even vaseline will keep it from coming back.

Past experience is that if it's had a heavy keyring swinging from it, it's worn. Also some aftermarket switches don't let the bezel nut thread onto it properly. Went thru that in 2005 on a 66 Starfire, and the 1st replacement was a newer CarQuest which is usually pretty good stuff. Got an older stock Standard Motor Parts switch and everything worked right.