Driver side turn signals don't work
September 7th, 2012, 11:37 PM
#1
1961 Holiday 98
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 20
Driver side turn signals don't work
1961 Holiday 98 turn signal issues.
First of all I had no tail light and park light on driver side, only brake light. Replaced all bulbs on that side and we now have everything except signal lights.
My thoughts are the switch in the column as it does seem a bit loose. I do have passenger turn signal.
Is there anything I should check before pulling the wheel and getting at the switch?
First of all I had no tail light and park light on driver side, only brake light. Replaced all bulbs on that side and we now have everything except signal lights.
My thoughts are the switch in the column as it does seem a bit loose. I do have passenger turn signal.
Is there anything I should check before pulling the wheel and getting at the switch?
September 8th, 2012, 07:45 AM
#2
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,296
The switch on these cars is actually at the lower end of the column. There's a yoke and actuator rod up at the lever itself. It's kind of involved to get all that mess out, requires special tools, and parts are difficult to find, so let's concentrate on the switch, which is possibly out of adjustment.
To adjust it- Locate the switch and put the t/s lever in neutral position. You will see two small holes in the switch body, one on either side of the actuator rod. Loosen the switch mounting screws and with the lever in neutral position, move the switch body on the column until you can put two .090 pin gauges in these holes. Tighten switch mounting screws and the switch should be adjusted correctly.
The shop book calls for a pair of .090 pin gauges, but a couple of 3/32 drill bits will probably work here.
Might not hurt to spray some contact cleaner into the switch either as corrosion is likely after 51 years.
It's always possible the yoke and actuator are worn. If you've never messed with a pre-65 GM column, I wouldn't do that job without a factory shop manual. If you can't find new, the parts will have to come from a 61-62 GM fullsize car with Hydramatic transmission. Pieces from a Powerglide-equipped Chevy might work but can't promise it will.
To adjust it- Locate the switch and put the t/s lever in neutral position. You will see two small holes in the switch body, one on either side of the actuator rod. Loosen the switch mounting screws and with the lever in neutral position, move the switch body on the column until you can put two .090 pin gauges in these holes. Tighten switch mounting screws and the switch should be adjusted correctly.
The shop book calls for a pair of .090 pin gauges, but a couple of 3/32 drill bits will probably work here.
Might not hurt to spray some contact cleaner into the switch either as corrosion is likely after 51 years.
It's always possible the yoke and actuator are worn. If you've never messed with a pre-65 GM column, I wouldn't do that job without a factory shop manual. If you can't find new, the parts will have to come from a 61-62 GM fullsize car with Hydramatic transmission. Pieces from a Powerglide-equipped Chevy might work but can't promise it will.
September 8th, 2012, 11:21 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Spokane Washington
Posts: 383
Wow, taking above advise is likely the secret.
When you're at the switch assembly inspecting it, before the alignment effort, I would "jumper" the contact function to verify the circuit works. In other words, the exposed connector points may allow you to insert a jumper or test wire that simulates you "made" the left turn switch position. Verify the lights flash and it's not something down line. You could also meter the switch for continuity (resistance) with a volt-ohm meter without power applied. The problem with this test is, you can read continuity but it may trick you the switch is good but with actual use, a worn contact may drop voltage and won't pass enough current to kick the flasher circuit.
When you're at the switch assembly inspecting it, before the alignment effort, I would "jumper" the contact function to verify the circuit works. In other words, the exposed connector points may allow you to insert a jumper or test wire that simulates you "made" the left turn switch position. Verify the lights flash and it's not something down line. You could also meter the switch for continuity (resistance) with a volt-ohm meter without power applied. The problem with this test is, you can read continuity but it may trick you the switch is good but with actual use, a worn contact may drop voltage and won't pass enough current to kick the flasher circuit.
September 9th, 2012, 08:26 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Great Bend, KS
Posts: 174
I know this is dumb... but.
Make sure you replaced the bulbs with the correct ones. My wife managed to fit a single filament bulb into her tail light where there should have been a double filament. Caused all sorts of weird lighting issues.
Make sure you replaced the bulbs with the correct ones. My wife managed to fit a single filament bulb into her tail light where there should have been a double filament. Caused all sorts of weird lighting issues.
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