been going at it for the past two weeks trying to figure out why my turn signals won't work my headlights my flashers and all my park lights come on the only thing that is my turn signals will not flash

 

Have you checked all the bulbs? I'n my 76 if their is a bulb out it will affect that side, you may also need to replace the round flasher unit under the drivers side dash. Welcome to CO, we all like pics, when you get a chance post a few.
Hope this helps
Eric

 

You said your four-way flashers work but your signal lights don't?

Replace the signal light flasher.

- Eric

 

Check the turn signal flasher. You can swap it for the hazard flasher and see if that fixes it.

 

Thank you I will go and check that I will have more pics later on today

 

I have replaced the turn signal switch inside is done will call them I have replaced the flasher the hazard flasher I also replaced the low beam switch on the floor and I'm still not getting any turning signals I have replaced the glass fuse still not turning signal there's power running through there

 

But did you replace the turn signal flasher?

- Eric

 

Yes I have replaced that too still no signal

 

So you replaced two different flashers?

- Eric

 

I had a similar thing happen on my 1970 and traced it to the large connector coming from the rear and connecting to the other connector below the steering wheel........it was loose, put a plastic pull tie around and that was it, good luck.
Frank

 

Check and see if you have a bulb burned out front or rear. If your indicator light comes on and burns steadily that's a dead clue you have one either burned out or not properly grounded. I have fought with the RF turn signal on my 74 Hurst for years.

Keep in mind that 74-77, the front park/turn sockets have a separate ground lead. These cars have impact bumpers and fiberglass noses, neither of which conduct electricity very well. If it ain't grounded, it won't work.

 

I fought this problem for a week, only to realize that the key needs to be in RUN or START for turn signals to work. I dunno if that makes a difference here, but I thought I'd mention it.

 

I think it's time to start testing for voltage with a meter. It's a whole lot cheaper than trouble shooting by replacing the electrical system component by component.

 

thanks for the help I got the turn signals to work I truly thank everybody on this page without you guys I wouldn't be where I'm at now now my next issue I have replaced my heater core I have replaced the heater blower the heater relay switch what's next in order to get heat

 

And... How did you do it?

- Eric

 

If you drained the rad, I would put a new 195 deg thermostat, fill the rad up with to the top of the transmission cooler, start up the car put the defrost on high/heat. Allow the coolant level to drop in the rad for a couple minutes, then add again to the top of the cooler. Run for about 10 -15 min so the air locks have come out . You should have heat at this point . Give it some high idle top off rad and install cap, then top of the overflow bottle. should be good to go .
Hope this helps
Eric

 

Please post what you did to fix it so we and future readers know.

 

X2 with both Eric's It would help us all out .
Cheers
Eric #3

 

I had to find the signal flasher wires there wasn't anyso I took the dashboard down and I had to trace to where the signal flasher wires go to and rewire new wires and flasher. now as far as the heatI'm getting fire through the relay switch I can hear it clicking yeah nothing's coming on I'll put in a new radiator already

 

So someone had cut the wires and the flasher out of the car?!?

That could complicate troubleshooting.

- Eric

 

At this point you may want to purchase a voltage meter like Oldcutlass ( Eric ) suggested and go through your wiring.
Also as Mdchanic ( Eric ) mentioned this will be very difficult to diagnose even with these great electrical guys that have given you great advice. Perhaps someone here has a pic on the wiring schematics for your car that may help you.
Cheers
Eric # 3