When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
have been trying to locate a PV2 type valve for a 1970 442. According to my research, the proportioning valve on those did not actually proportion and therefore I should be looking for a 1350 type and not a 1353.
Anyhow, I keep ordering from different vendors and every single valve that arrives has the exact same stamp on it with no other difference externally that I can find and the ports are all the wrong shape and size to work with my stock hard lines that I just bought from in line tube.
here’s a photo of the most recent arrival next to the one that I am replacing that I smashed one of the ports on by trying to tighten a stainless steel line and unsuccessfully sealing it.
whoever is the maker of these generic PV2 and selling them on Amazon and other places changed the tooling so the flare mating surface are now too wide to fit inside the mating surface of the flare on the tube. The hole on some of the ports are also larger than the tube that they are going to attach to. Am I wrong in thinking this is a problem?
Last edited by CuttyShark; Dec 18, 2025 at 11:31 AM.
Looks like 37 vs 45° flare. Hey thats what happens when childhood labor reads a drawing then is set loose on a 1930s mill.
Welcome to the wonderful world of chineasium land fill dumpster fire fodder. Steer clear of it at all costs!
Stainless steel is less conforming and can be harder to seal.
Something is off. Either the line taper is wrong or not formed correctly, or the receiving taper is off.
Does the nut thread in OK?
Snap a pic of the flare on the lines.
Stainless is harder than mild steel lines, so I'd expect to see deeper witness marks in the brass.
If any line, stainless or mild, isn't 100% parallel with the fittings when compressed, it will leak.
Make sure the line is "neutral" when threading it in. Neutral means it's not being biased in one direction by tension from the line and can be finger tightened almost up to the taper seal area.
This same mentality applies to any flare-fitted line. Carb to pump is another example that should be 100% neutral.
Get a gauge that measures JIC and SAE. Your local Parker dealer should have them on the shelf(look for a hydraulic hose repair vendor in your area).