I’ve seen them recently for a fair amount more than that. But fine he can buy those then.

 

I don't know if you've come across these in your piston search, but this guy advertises forged 400g pistons. I searched this thread but didn't see these mentioned - could have missed it though. I have seen some other references to him in other threads so some people here know of him.

Olds Performance Products

 

I hadn't seen these. I didn't get a call back last week, so I'm expecting one the first part of this week. If he's still searching, Ill bring these up as well.

Thanks

 

Got a call this morning, we've got pistons and rings inbound. We're building out to .040" over and he's going to recon the rods and if need be, deck the block.

 

What pistons are you going with?

 

Hes going with SBM pistons. Pistons with rings came in under $300, so I'd guess either Mahle or Sealed Power based on what I was seeing. Should be fine for the cruiser I'm building, regardless of the flak I've already gotten for getting an off the shelf Mopar piston no matter who I mention it to, ha.

 

Probably not Mahle at that price, too low. Mahle will have a phosphate coating.

 

I thought I saw a Mahle kit (pistons and rings) within that range at one point in my searches. Either way (Mahle or Sealed Power) the fact he's going with bigger pistons and boring/honing to them and then decking the block accordingly makes me feel a bit better.

 

i been read your progress on the 400, i have a '69 400 in my '68 442, i have a redone carb thats correct for my motor, i wont be needing it as im going with a tri carb and really dont want this carb sitting . just wondering if your looking

 

I'm honestly not sure what route I want to take with the carb. The more I thought about it, and how awesome it'd be to have a correct date coded carb..Im kinda thinking I'll end up with a new Holley with electric choke. I'd definitely entertain the idea though, as I think I'll still want to get the original distributor restored to keep with the car anyway-might as well do the same for a carburetor.

 

If you decide to take up 6844268 on his offer, you can add an electric choke to the rochester.

 

yeah, I had thought about that as well. I think once I get the back end of the car back together and can mentally move back to the engine (still waiting on some sort of update anyway) I'll focus more time and thought to it. At this point, I'm just hoping I can have the car together and running by spring..so that I can drive it over to get the exhaust and headliner done.

 

If you went with a stock cam, the stock rebuilt carb should be pretty close, it was factory calibrated to this motor. The bow headliner aren't that bad to do, I did mine, it just takes patience. Are you going completely factory on the exhaust? A nice motor for a great car and sounds like you are getting close to hitting the road.

 

Wow, sorry for the delayed response I'm just now seeing this. I'd like more cam, but it still be streetable/able to stop. The headliner, I've got an auto upholstery shop literally a block up the street from me, I was going to just take it in there. I'd like to have him replace the foam in the seats as well, but that may be on hold for next offseason. One block up the other way is an exhaust shop. It's not my preferred place for exhaust work, but they just put the exhaust on my Dodge when we put the headers in and did a pretty decent job. I'd like to run the same mufflers (Summit Magnaflows) if possible, as I like the sound but if I can't..so be it.

Update on the engine:
I am being told I will be able to pick up the assembled short block, and finished heads this Friday. He said that last week, and when I went in last Friday was told the heads arent done and the short block was not assembled as he had the wrong bearings and couldn't balance it yet. I asked for clarity, and was told when I pick it up, I'm adding cam/lifters/pushrods, timing set, oiling system (pump/pan/etc) valve covers, intake, and distributor...everything else is ready to go. That being said, I'm still going to take it to the other shop for final assembly, as well as dyno tuning.

Any recommendations on cam? Right now, we're .040" over. I am most likely going to get the original intake/exhaust cleaned (if they can be saved) and reused, but will more than likely slap a Holley on there (maybe something aftermarket/spreadbore but not sure yet). Im assuming double roller timing chain is the way to go, and as much as I'd like to use the original distributor, I'll most likely need a replacement as it needs a full restore as well.

 

Ask Mark Remmel, aka Cutlassefi on this site, for your cam. He is a Lunati and Erson rep, and has built a few Olds engines. He can make a good recommendation .

 

Holy cow!! It still exists after all!!

Heads will be picked up early in the week, then "mid-March" it's scheduled to go in for final assembly. In the meantime, I need to start gathering more parts. Thinking about trying to find an intake aftermarket, as I'm really worried about the original one. Also need to punch numbers into the comp cam selector, and get that on order as well as new valve covers, carb and a few other things.

 

Some progress is good progress. 👍

 

Agreed..now I need to quit dragging my feet and get go fast parts ordered so that its not waiting and put on the backburner at the assembly shop.

 

Cam and lifters ordered (shoutout @cutlassefi ) as well as new balancer, flex plate, and water pump. Currently working to get my original distributor restored..still on the hunt for paintable valve covers in decent shape that aren't so dang expensive.

I'll probably just have the assembly shop rebuild the qjet that came with the car, since they'll need in there to rejet and all anyway I'm sure.

The machine shop sprayed the block and heads a gold color, but I thought the correct color for a '69 400 was a copper. Is there a certain color code I need to look for? I know when I was respraying the Mopar engine I built, that was a headache as the actual Mopar color wasn't even right.

Thanks.

 

The correct color for the engine is Bronze, but very few shops know this and most usually just slather it in SBO Gold.

Don't ask me how I know this.

 

Fusicks will have the correct bronze paint. Ask them to send you a catalog, no charge for it if you order from them..

 

I'll have to check it out, I have last year's catalog from them (don't remember what I ordered) but hadn't done much with them since.

Thanks

 

Also, went ahead and put eyes on the valve covers I have again..they look better than I remembered, aside from a small dent. If they're switchable, I may just flip them to make sure the dent is in a not-so obvious spot.

 

Fusick has them at 20 bucks a can and claims I'd need 3-4 cans. OPGI has a larger can (not by much though) at 12 bucks a can. Is there really a difference?

 

Check the corners of the valve covers, if they have inset corners (for booster clearance and A/C box clearance) then you cannot swap them. But if they are symmetrical then you can swap them. You just might have to swap the rubber grommets for PCV and breather tube as I believe they are different.

 

I'm pretty sure they do now that you say that..and naturally the dent is opposite of that. I don't think the dent is that hateful (annoyingly though I caused it) so it may just be something I live with as the only one who knows its thee..haha

 

Heads are back..so I'm officially done with the machine shop.

Gonna try to get the axle back in the car this weekend, and focus on taking inventory to make sure I have what I need, and get it all together to make sure it all gets to the assembly shop..ha

 

Awesome! This has been following along - thanks for sharing with us!

 

Cam is in (shoutout @cutlassefi for the help)

Hoping this weekend to take inventory to make sure I'm not missing anything..but I believe everything is either in house or accounted for. Just waiting on the assembly shop to call and say they're ready.

 

Update...

Called the shop doing assembly and (long story short) we're going to get everything loaded up and delivered this week. I think all I'm missing are things such as pushrods, oiling system (pump/pickup/etc) fuel pump and small things like that. The annoying thing is that it's raining all week, but we may just triple bag the block and heads, and stick everything else in the cab of the truck

IF it sticks with the quoted 6 weeks (could be more, could be less) that gives me a little over 2 weeks to get it in, get exhaust on, and get things dialed in by Memorial Day which was my goal. Hopefully, the next big update I have is a finish date and/or dyno sheet. Either way, just glad to be nearing completion on this..and I can finally give my 4 year old an answer on when the engine will be done. ha!

 

Put cosmoline on any raw machined surfaces to prevent rust. It will have to be cut with mineral spirits and brushed on.

 

FYI, you are driving distance to one of the best Quadrajet carb shop's in the country. Chris' Carb Shop, used to be called "The Carb Shop". North side of Dayton on main. Couple of old guys smoking and listening to Led Zeplin but really good with carbs especially the Quadrajet. They run test them on a couple motors they have there and dial them in. When they did mine they told me I might need to tweak air fuel a bit, I counted turns when I did it. They were dead on perfect, didn't need to touch it. Less than $300 out the door if memory serves.

 

Really? I had no idea. I know there was a top-notch guy in Delaware for Thermoquads, but didn't know anyone around here was solid with Qjets. I'm having the guys at PC rebuild it and dial it in with this engine on the dyno.

Did they just rebuild it, or address the finish/plating as well?

 

Just a rebuild. Everyone I talked to told me to take my Quadrajet there like they were the specialists. They do all sorts of carb rebuilds and restores actually. Had some cool vintage and exotic stuff in there for pick up when i went back. Its an interesting little shop. A converted house on the north side.

 

Everything got dropped off today, and it sounds like they're shooting to start on it in the morning. I'm still under the impression of a 6 week lead time until its finished/dyno'ed.

Dad said they actually mentioned the first shop by name, saying they've had a huge uptick in business..and those customers stating that first machine shop (while doing great work previously) had stuff way too long. Glad to hear I'm not the only one who had that issue.

Now, to get the other stuff done before it gets back.

 

6 week lead times will be the running joke for the rest of my life..ha!

On the 1 year anniversary of dropping the engine off, I figured I'd go ahead and call the assembly shop this morning. I was told the engine is currently on the stand being assembled, and he's hoping it will be running by the end of the week but most likely the first part of next week.

To say I'm excited is an understatement, just now I need to really buckle down and get everything finished up..ha!!

 

Throwing out a HUGE shoutout to @cutlassefi

Assembly shop called this afternoon expressing concern over the SBM pistons. Google helped me find Mark's number, I called but didn't leave a message (long story). He called me back and talked me through the problem and solution, to which I passed that along to the assembler and it sounds like we're back in business. I'll know for sure in a day or two, but I can't express how much I appreciated that phone call back. To say I was sweating would be an understatement.

 

He is the best.

 

Well, it looks like we're back to the drawing board a bit..

Assembly shop called Friday to inform me that he's taken over 1/8" out of the piston and it's still nowhere close. I got off the phone and called @cutlassefi to pretty much get confirmation of what my next step was.. and so now things are changing.

Where we stand now, the issue lies with the Mopar piston/late 400 (shorter) rod. Through more emails, digging, and beyond..I've narrowed down the piston I need while also upping to the early 400/425 (7") rod. I have reached out to Icon, hoping I can get my hands on their IC846 STD slug. If so, I'll pick those up as well as the 7" rod and have the new shop adjust the pin bore and we *should* be good to go. I'll probably verify with both Mark and the new shop in regards to the math before I place the orders assuming Icon comes through.. but just another delay in this 🤦‍♂️

 

You’ve posted twice now that you had problems with the piston and got it figured out but never mentioned the problem with the piston?

no details on measurements or anything.

what piston did you start with? wouldn’t a new set of custom pistons been more affordable since you are into set #2 and all the cost of this?