VIN factory mistake or wrong?
March 15th, 2012, 07:20 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 6
VIN factory mistake or wrong?
Hi all, I'm new to the forum. I am looking at a '68 convertable 442 and have done some research on the VIN codes. This car is a convertable but the VIN and title show 344873M.....by all the VIN decoders this should be a '63 holiday coupe (no such thing right). The body tag shows 68-33667 which by everything I have read is correct for a Lansing built 442 and the codes would be correct for a convertable. The car has the protecto plate which shows the VIN as 344678M.....
The current owner has said that the VIN was produced wrong at build. Based on the protecto plate and body tag I am thinking this is a real 442 Convertable but don't want to sink some $$ in it if it is some kind of clone.
Has anyone heard of wrong VIN's like this or errors from the factory?? Are there production records available and using the whole VIN to know for sure how this car was built?
The current owner has said that the VIN was produced wrong at build. Based on the protecto plate and body tag I am thinking this is a real 442 Convertable but don't want to sink some $$ in it if it is some kind of clone.
Has anyone heard of wrong VIN's like this or errors from the factory?? Are there production records available and using the whole VIN to know for sure how this car was built?
March 15th, 2012, 07:31 AM
#2
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,367
Look at it very closely. I'm thinking the 8 in the year position may be a bad strike and is really an 8 and not a 3.
Possible the 8 in the body style is a poorly struck 6 and not an 8. Short of seeing it I can't say.
There is always the possibility the car has been rebodied and the guy doing it got sloppy and didn't change the VIN plate. Look real close around the firewall and door jambs and see if there is evidence of splicing a firewall/cowl to the rest of the shell. If there is even the slightest hint of that, I would run, not walk, away from that car. It means serious rust or accident damage.
Come to think of it, if the VIN doesn't match what it's claimed to be, I'd leave it alone too. There's more than one 68 convertible available and no point in getting into somebody else's cobbled up mess.
1963 (and 1973) VINS were a different format than 65-71 so what you have is a 65-71 style VIN, just a little fishy.
Possible the 8 in the body style is a poorly struck 6 and not an 8. Short of seeing it I can't say.
There is always the possibility the car has been rebodied and the guy doing it got sloppy and didn't change the VIN plate. Look real close around the firewall and door jambs and see if there is evidence of splicing a firewall/cowl to the rest of the shell. If there is even the slightest hint of that, I would run, not walk, away from that car. It means serious rust or accident damage.
Come to think of it, if the VIN doesn't match what it's claimed to be, I'd leave it alone too. There's more than one 68 convertible available and no point in getting into somebody else's cobbled up mess.
1963 (and 1973) VINS were a different format than 65-71 so what you have is a 65-71 style VIN, just a little fishy.
March 15th, 2012, 08:47 AM
#4
Trying to remember member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,112
There is no such thing as a VIN with that number with a 3.
If you confirm that the number is indeed a 8, fine. But make sure it is an 8 on the title too. Even if it really is an 8, you *could* have considerable trouble with the title bureau is the title carries the 3 instead of the 8, no matter how "right" you or the car is!
March 15th, 2012, 09:15 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Hague, VA...1-1/2 hours from the year 2017
Posts: 341
A misread VIN is certainly possible. The VIN on the title for my '72 has started with 3687 since at least the early '80s; the VIN on the car actually reads 3G87. Some day i'll get around to taking the car to DMV to have it corrected 
.
.
March 15th, 2012, 09:26 AM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 6
VIN attached
442 VIN.JPG
442 body tag.JPG
I have attached a photo of the VIN and body tag. Looking closely the year seems clear enough to say it is an 8 maybe just faded a bit. The reported 87 kind of looks like a backward 6. I won't see the title until this weekend when I go look at the car but the owner said the title states an 87.
I really appreciate your input so far!!
442 body tag.JPG
I have attached a photo of the VIN and body tag. Looking closely the year seems clear enough to say it is an 8 maybe just faded a bit. The reported 87 kind of looks like a backward 6. I won't see the title until this weekend when I go look at the car but the owner said the title states an 87.
I really appreciate your input so far!!
March 15th, 2012, 10:27 AM
#7
Sammy70 455 Supreme
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Port Perry, Ontario
Posts: 3,069
Look at it very closely. I'm thinking the 8 in the year position may be a bad strike and is really an 8 and not a 3.
Possible the 8 in the body style is a poorly struck 6 and not an 8. Short of seeing it I can't say.
There is always the possibility the car has been rebodied and the guy doing it got sloppy and didn't change the VIN plate. Look real close around the firewall and door jambs and see if there is evidence of splicing a firewall/cowl to the rest of the shell. If there is even the slightest hint of that, I would run, not walk, away from that car. It means serious rust or accident damage.
Come to think of it, if the VIN doesn't match what it's claimed to be, I'd leave it alone too. There's more than one 68 convertible available and no point in getting into somebody else's cobbled up mess.
1963 (and 1973) VINS were a different format than 65-71 so what you have is a 65-71 style VIN, just a little fishy.
Possible the 8 in the body style is a poorly struck 6 and not an 8. Short of seeing it I can't say.
There is always the possibility the car has been rebodied and the guy doing it got sloppy and didn't change the VIN plate. Look real close around the firewall and door jambs and see if there is evidence of splicing a firewall/cowl to the rest of the shell. If there is even the slightest hint of that, I would run, not walk, away from that car. It means serious rust or accident damage.
Come to think of it, if the VIN doesn't match what it's claimed to be, I'd leave it alone too. There's more than one 68 convertible available and no point in getting into somebody else's cobbled up mess.
1963 (and 1973) VINS were a different format than 65-71 so what you have is a 65-71 style VIN, just a little fishy.
March 15th, 2012, 10:48 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Muskegon, Mi.
Posts: 8,717
The vin and cowl would not be the same! 1968-1969 442's had cowl tags with Cutlass body numbers. the vin shows to me, an 8 as it does not look like the other 3 in the vin...slightly different curves to it. The vin says 442, match it to the protecto plate and title. But, the vin does not look 34467, which it needs to be, to be a convertible, which the cowl tag indicates. Better be safe than sorry, run!
March 15th, 2012, 10:51 AM
#9
Aloha, Tony
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Centennial, CO.
Posts: 194
They don't match on my 1968 442 convertible, mine is also a Lansing car.
See this thread for more info:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ag-decode.html
See this thread for more info:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ag-decode.html
March 15th, 2012, 10:54 AM
#10
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Location: Hague, VA...1-1/2 hours from the year 2017
Posts: 341
March 15th, 2012, 11:22 AM
#12
Trying to remember member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,112
A '68 442 convert VIN should start 344678M. The VIN does not *appear* to be that. And if the title doesn't say that, you have trouble regardless of what the VIN tag really says. I wouldn't touch it unless
1. He could confirm and prove to me the VIN is 344678Mxxxxxxx (and matches the POP).
2. *He* has the title corrected. Do *not* presume that getting the title corrected is easy. It can be extremely difficult.
If you don't do it prior to the time you (or who inherits it) tries to sell it, there can be major problems. Though a much smaller chance, you could even have even bigger trouble right now. You have a title where the VIN on the title does not match the car VIN. Legally that means your car does not have a legal title. And that also *technically* means that any registration you have (because you don't have a legal title) is void too. And check the small print in your insurance policy. It too could be voided without a legal title and registration. The ramifications can be pretty far reaching. Just the thing lawyers look for if you have an accident.
1. He could confirm and prove to me the VIN is 344678Mxxxxxxx (and matches the POP).
2. *He* has the title corrected. Do *not* presume that getting the title corrected is easy. It can be extremely difficult.
If you don't do it prior to the time you (or who inherits it) tries to sell it, there can be major problems. Though a much smaller chance, you could even have even bigger trouble right now. You have a title where the VIN on the title does not match the car VIN. Legally that means your car does not have a legal title. And that also *technically* means that any registration you have (because you don't have a legal title) is void too. And check the small print in your insurance policy. It too could be voided without a legal title and registration. The ramifications can be pretty far reaching. Just the thing lawyers look for if you have an accident.
March 15th, 2012, 11:29 AM
#13
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,256
The only question I see here is the number before the "M" in the VIN. It could be a "3" but, if you look at that picture from an angle different from head-on, it looks to me like it could be (as it should be) an "8". And, if the P-O-P reads "8" and the title reads "8", I'd say there's a high likely hood that what looks like a "3" in the VIN is really an "8".
I had a similar problem here in WA state. For years, the VIN on my title had a "B" instead of what should hav been an "8", before the M. I had to make special arrangements with the WA State Patrol to get my car inspected to verify that the "B" was really an "8" before I could get a correct title.
Randy C.
I had a similar problem here in WA state. For years, the VIN on my title had a "B" instead of what should hav been an "8", before the M. I had to make special arrangements with the WA State Patrol to get my car inspected to verify that the "B" was really an "8" before I could get a correct title.
Randy C.
March 15th, 2012, 12:25 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 6
more info
Thanks to everyone so far your knowledge is great!
I have two more photos one of the protecto plate and the other of a punch card of some kind. Both show VIN 344678M.... and the last six numbers on both of these matchs the VIN. Seems like these would be hard to fake but these days anything is possible I guess. Is there any documentation that lists the last six numbers of the VIN from the factory and what the car was built as?
It sounds like some of you have been down the path of getting the title corrected but doesn't sound easy. Would these two pieces of documentation make it easier?
I am in Minnesota to answer an earlier post.
Any thoughts on these two more pieces of info is appreciated
I have two more photos one of the protecto plate and the other of a punch card of some kind. Both show VIN 344678M.... and the last six numbers on both of these matchs the VIN. Seems like these would be hard to fake but these days anything is possible I guess. Is there any documentation that lists the last six numbers of the VIN from the factory and what the car was built as?
It sounds like some of you have been down the path of getting the title corrected but doesn't sound easy. Would these two pieces of documentation make it easier?
I am in Minnesota to answer an earlier post.
Any thoughts on these two more pieces of info is appreciated
March 15th, 2012, 12:37 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Posts: 1,124
I bought a 69 Vette back in 1988, and when I got the Florida title, someone had misread an "S" in the vin. and there was a "5" in it's place. It took months and a State Trooper to get it corrected. You don't want a problem later when you go to sell it.
March 15th, 2012, 12:52 PM
#16
Trying to remember member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,112
Thanks to everyone so far your knowledge is great!
I have two more photos one of the protecto plate and the other of a punch card of some kind. Both show VIN 344678M.... and the last six numbers on both of these matchs the VIN. Seems like these would be hard to fake but these days anything is possible I guess. Is there any documentation that lists the last six numbers of the VIN from the factory and what the car was built as?
It sounds like some of you have been down the path of getting the title corrected but doesn't sound easy. Would these two pieces of documentation make it easier?
I am in Minnesota to answer an earlier post.
Any thoughts on these two more pieces of info is appreciated
I have two more photos one of the protecto plate and the other of a punch card of some kind. Both show VIN 344678M.... and the last six numbers on both of these matchs the VIN. Seems like these would be hard to fake but these days anything is possible I guess. Is there any documentation that lists the last six numbers of the VIN from the factory and what the car was built as?
It sounds like some of you have been down the path of getting the title corrected but doesn't sound easy. Would these two pieces of documentation make it easier?
I am in Minnesota to answer an earlier post.
Any thoughts on these two more pieces of info is appreciated
December 16th, 2012, 01:29 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
So, how did this pan out?
Looking over the photos, I see:
VIN Tag 344878M459932
This NOT a convertible VIN.
Show a photo of the car itself? It's not unheard of for a person to make a convertible out of a hardtop- a neighbor of mine did just that with a Mustang recently. Hard to tell it was done, from a cursory inspection.
The VIN tag appears to show a
3 = Oldsmobile
_44 = 442 series
___87 = Holiday Coupe [67 would be a convertible]
_____8 = 1968 model year
______M = Lansing, MI assembly plant
_______459932 = sequential VIN
The "878" part of "344878" I could believe- it needs a good cleaning to be sure, but notice the FLAT TOP that 8's used in this application should have, as set forth in the factory literature. The "8" in "8M" looks more like the first "8" [which should/ may be a "6"] than it does like the later "3". Removal of that plastic trim and a good cleaning of the VIN tag are in order before money changes hands. Perhaps with a good cleaning the VIN tag will say "344678M459932" which would be correct for this car as a '68 442 Convertible.
Disturbingly, I see a LARGE rivet HEAD on the LH side, indicating tomfoolery with the VIN tag itself. Lansing car VIN tag rivets were put in from underneath, and the rivet of course would have a rosette head. Perhaps I am incorrect and am looking at the other end of a proper rosette rivet. A quick look under the dash would really help here.
COWL tag says "33667 LAN 453957"
Trim 944, Paint S-8
This -is- a convertible Cutlass body, may have become a Cutlass or 442, depending on the exact VIN.
The high body number, near but not matching the VIN, seems kosher.
POP "344678M459932"
Engine QW code, Eng. Unit # 8625329
Under that should be the trans ID, but "DBO-4372" is a mystery to me
Trim 944, Paint S-8 - matches the cowl tag on that anyhow.
"Donald C. Knapp 14 335
% Barta's Fairway 8 10 68
St. Peter Minn M459932"
The address "%" might be a "5" with the caps lock held on by mistake. G00GLE search of that address and name return no viable results.
8.10.68 is presumably the date of the initial sale. That, plus the high body and VIN numbers indicate a tail-end of 1968 model year production.
Pretty sure "QW" is the correct engine for a '68 442- I recall my '68 442 W30 is supposed to be a "QT" engine. Aye, Chassis Service Manual says QW and QU are the engines provided with SMT [SynchroMesh (manual) Trans] vehicles. Therefore, this car should have a manual trans, with "38M459932" [and other info] stamped into the side of the main case.
All things considered, it all boils down to the validity of the VIN tag. While the hard to read numbers and questionable rivets indicate possible trouble, it seems EXTREMELY unlikely that the final 6 digits would match VIN tag to a nearly indisputable correct POP, but a faker would mess up the body style portion of the VIN tag. If the VIN tag is examined closely and found to be correct in all ways, and reads 344678M459932... then it's a real '68 442 convertible.
Looking over the photos, I see:
VIN Tag 344878M459932
This NOT a convertible VIN.
Show a photo of the car itself? It's not unheard of for a person to make a convertible out of a hardtop- a neighbor of mine did just that with a Mustang recently. Hard to tell it was done, from a cursory inspection.
The VIN tag appears to show a
3 = Oldsmobile
_44 = 442 series
___87 = Holiday Coupe [67 would be a convertible]
_____8 = 1968 model year
______M = Lansing, MI assembly plant
_______459932 = sequential VIN
The "878" part of "344878" I could believe- it needs a good cleaning to be sure, but notice the FLAT TOP that 8's used in this application should have, as set forth in the factory literature. The "8" in "8M" looks more like the first "8" [which should/ may be a "6"] than it does like the later "3". Removal of that plastic trim and a good cleaning of the VIN tag are in order before money changes hands. Perhaps with a good cleaning the VIN tag will say "344678M459932" which would be correct for this car as a '68 442 Convertible.
Disturbingly, I see a LARGE rivet HEAD on the LH side, indicating tomfoolery with the VIN tag itself. Lansing car VIN tag rivets were put in from underneath, and the rivet of course would have a rosette head. Perhaps I am incorrect and am looking at the other end of a proper rosette rivet. A quick look under the dash would really help here.
COWL tag says "33667 LAN 453957"
Trim 944, Paint S-8
This -is- a convertible Cutlass body, may have become a Cutlass or 442, depending on the exact VIN.
The high body number, near but not matching the VIN, seems kosher.
POP "344678M459932"
Engine QW code, Eng. Unit # 8625329
Under that should be the trans ID, but "DBO-4372" is a mystery to me
Trim 944, Paint S-8 - matches the cowl tag on that anyhow.
"Donald C. Knapp 14 335
% Barta's Fairway 8 10 68
St. Peter Minn M459932"
The address "%" might be a "5" with the caps lock held on by mistake. G00GLE search of that address and name return no viable results.
8.10.68 is presumably the date of the initial sale. That, plus the high body and VIN numbers indicate a tail-end of 1968 model year production.
Pretty sure "QW" is the correct engine for a '68 442- I recall my '68 442 W30 is supposed to be a "QT" engine. Aye, Chassis Service Manual says QW and QU are the engines provided with SMT [SynchroMesh (manual) Trans] vehicles. Therefore, this car should have a manual trans, with "38M459932" [and other info] stamped into the side of the main case.
All things considered, it all boils down to the validity of the VIN tag. While the hard to read numbers and questionable rivets indicate possible trouble, it seems EXTREMELY unlikely that the final 6 digits would match VIN tag to a nearly indisputable correct POP, but a faker would mess up the body style portion of the VIN tag. If the VIN tag is examined closely and found to be correct in all ways, and reads 344678M459932... then it's a real '68 442 convertible.
Last edited by Octania; December 16th, 2012 at 01:34 PM.
February 2nd, 2013, 06:23 AM
#23
Always room for one more
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Georgia
Posts: 7,803
I'm guessing he didn't buy the car, because the last time he was on the sight was March 16, the day after posting.
Obviously if he would have bought the car he would want to hang out here with the rest of us.
Obviously if he would have bought the car he would want to hang out here with the rest of us.
February 2nd, 2013, 08:23 AM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Dang, no more info.
So, this car is out there, bringing joy +/or tears to owners.
I would be very interested in documenting a factory VIN snafu like getting the body style wrong on the VIN proper- the very definition of the car's origin, nature and heritage.
What with the rivets being a) not rosette and b) upside down [unless I am mistaken], it screams tampered- altered- faked up VIN plate... but then what became of the original one? And why would a fake-master not go ahead and get all the digits exactly right? I have a '69 442 rusted beyond saving, and a '69 Cutlass convertible- why can't one [physically, not legally] cut and weld the VIN tags from 344879Mxxx [442] and 336679Mxxxx [Cutlass convertible] into a 344679Mzzzzzz [442 convertible] car's ID... then get a title issued for it?
It mystifies me how there can be all of
-Protecto Plate,
-Thru-Punched POP brochure, and
-Body Tag
all showing a "67" body type [convertible], and VIN '459932
And, yet, the VIN tag with the same sequential 459932 asserts that the car is not a convertible.
That VIN tag and its attachment need a real good close examination, including x-ray inspection if need be.
I was going over the above today, and noticed another tidbit. Probably means nothing, but should be mentioned and we can look at any POP brochures we have to see how they vary. Look closely at the thru-punched VIN lettering made of holes in the brochure. Look 'closelier'...
There are three "4" characters. The first one is missing a hole/ punch, RH side, above the horizontal cross-bar. The "6", presuming that it is the same an an upside down "9", is also missing a hole. The "M" almost seems to have an extra hole, top center.
Maybe I am wrong, but it seems like the factory would make sure that every one of those holes was made right, every time. Anyone got an original to compare?
.==========================
[a few minutes later]
Well, more info on the POP booklet.
I happen to have one handy, for a '68 H/O
VIN 344878M412-799 [dash inserted here for internet searching purposes]
Not all of the holes are punched thru. It gets weirder, though. In the "344" part, both 4's are supposed to have 1 hole on the RH edge above the horizontal cross bar. The second 4 is thusly formed and perfectly as expected. The first 4 has a hole in this position, thru the greenish COVER only. On the first page under that is the green dot punched from the cover, and under that, each page gets an increasingly less vigorous impression where the hole should be. Furthermore, the hole above that, which should not have even had an attempt at punching a hole, is half-punched thru the cover, and shows some small impression on the next few pages. The first "8" is missing its top-half LH hole entirely. Not a hint that a punch pin ever came near the paper. Still undeniably an 8 though. The M has the top center hole just like the OP's photo. Every other character is unremarkable and as expected.
One more detail
Under the VIN punches, the OP's photo shows extra holes [had to add _ spacers to get dots to locate better]
344678M459932
.___..______ ._. The dots are under the 3, 67, and 32
The H/O POP has the dots under the non-x's in => 3xxx7xxx127xx
It also has job sequence number?? "807" in grease pencil, two places, on what's left of the back cover. I suspect this is the number the line guys also wrote on the car as it came down the line, to help ensure each car got the right parts. On the core support, etc.
More input would be appreciated. Especially any more niggling details on factory POP booklets.
So, this car is out there, bringing joy +/or tears to owners.
I would be very interested in documenting a factory VIN snafu like getting the body style wrong on the VIN proper- the very definition of the car's origin, nature and heritage.
What with the rivets being a) not rosette and b) upside down [unless I am mistaken], it screams tampered- altered- faked up VIN plate... but then what became of the original one? And why would a fake-master not go ahead and get all the digits exactly right? I have a '69 442 rusted beyond saving, and a '69 Cutlass convertible- why can't one [physically, not legally] cut and weld the VIN tags from 344879Mxxx [442] and 336679Mxxxx [Cutlass convertible] into a 344679Mzzzzzz [442 convertible] car's ID... then get a title issued for it?
It mystifies me how there can be all of
-Protecto Plate,
-Thru-Punched POP brochure, and
-Body Tag
all showing a "67" body type [convertible], and VIN '459932
And, yet, the VIN tag with the same sequential 459932 asserts that the car is not a convertible.
That VIN tag and its attachment need a real good close examination, including x-ray inspection if need be.
I was going over the above today, and noticed another tidbit. Probably means nothing, but should be mentioned and we can look at any POP brochures we have to see how they vary. Look closely at the thru-punched VIN lettering made of holes in the brochure. Look 'closelier'...
There are three "4" characters. The first one is missing a hole/ punch, RH side, above the horizontal cross-bar. The "6", presuming that it is the same an an upside down "9", is also missing a hole. The "M" almost seems to have an extra hole, top center.
Maybe I am wrong, but it seems like the factory would make sure that every one of those holes was made right, every time. Anyone got an original to compare?
.==========================
[a few minutes later]
Well, more info on the POP booklet.
I happen to have one handy, for a '68 H/O
VIN 344878M412-799 [dash inserted here for internet searching purposes]
Not all of the holes are punched thru. It gets weirder, though. In the "344" part, both 4's are supposed to have 1 hole on the RH edge above the horizontal cross bar. The second 4 is thusly formed and perfectly as expected. The first 4 has a hole in this position, thru the greenish COVER only. On the first page under that is the green dot punched from the cover, and under that, each page gets an increasingly less vigorous impression where the hole should be. Furthermore, the hole above that, which should not have even had an attempt at punching a hole, is half-punched thru the cover, and shows some small impression on the next few pages. The first "8" is missing its top-half LH hole entirely. Not a hint that a punch pin ever came near the paper. Still undeniably an 8 though. The M has the top center hole just like the OP's photo. Every other character is unremarkable and as expected.
One more detail
Under the VIN punches, the OP's photo shows extra holes [had to add _ spacers to get dots to locate better]
344678M459932
.___..______ ._. The dots are under the 3, 67, and 32
The H/O POP has the dots under the non-x's in => 3xxx7xxx127xx
It also has job sequence number?? "807" in grease pencil, two places, on what's left of the back cover. I suspect this is the number the line guys also wrote on the car as it came down the line, to help ensure each car got the right parts. On the core support, etc.
More input would be appreciated. Especially any more niggling details on factory POP booklets.
Last edited by Octania; February 2nd, 2013 at 08:51 AM. Reason: add mo info
February 2nd, 2013, 08:28 AM
#25
"Car"mudgeon
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Perry, GA
Posts: 5,191
February 2nd, 2013, 09:17 AM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Seneca Falls, NY
Posts: 5,266
Originally Posted by daveh
......and being a Lansing built car, the rivets holding that Vin plate in place should come up from the bottom...not so for assembly plant cars where the windshield wasn't already in when they put that in.....
February 2nd, 2013, 10:39 AM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Not exactly bulletproof, but my personal observations of dozens of Lansing built cars- all of which had the rosette head underside. At first I thought my '68 442 had been tampered with, what with the rivets being "upside down" - but in light of how the cars were produced, it makes sense.
On the above car from the OP we see rust? and paint? over the VIN tag- which means at the least the area has been sprayed since it left the factory. Spraying paint over an altered tag would be a great way to cover up any modifications.
February 2nd, 2013, 04:15 PM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Current 68 442 MI car on epay has rivet heads underside
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...49099647#v4-42
Here are some pix of the POP for the H/O, every one covered with a damn ad for your viewing displeasure...
13033_68-HO_POP_03Rbacklit_zpsfecb874b.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_03S_zps3a5b554d.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_74T3605100_zpsde8a6269.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_72QDMotor_OWTrans_zps68ebe0b1.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_11impression_zpsa2637b63.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_41807_zps8607c714.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_50LastPgCodeM_zps27d75577.jpg
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...49099647#v4-42
Here are some pix of the POP for the H/O, every one covered with a damn ad for your viewing displeasure...
13033_68-HO_POP_03Rbacklit_zpsfecb874b.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_03S_zps3a5b554d.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_74T3605100_zpsde8a6269.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_72QDMotor_OWTrans_zps68ebe0b1.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_11impression_zpsa2637b63.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_41807_zps8607c714.jpg
13033_68-HO_POP_50LastPgCodeM_zps27d75577.jpg
Last edited by Octania; February 2nd, 2013 at 04:18 PM.
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