PerTronix Ignitor vs Ignitor II and III

Old September 3rd, 2016, 07:55 PM
  #41  
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No. I did have to install a diode on one of the wires IIRC.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:00 PM
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I'm afraid you've quite lost me then.

I would need a copy of the directions and photos of the starter to get any farther.

I can think of no way that a diode would allow you to replicate the action of the bypass wire, though you would probably be able to create a functional work-around for the lack of a bypass wire on an early car with one that was installed so as to allow current flow from the S terminal to the coil.

You're going to have to use a test light to check for voltage at different points in the circuit in order to determine where the problem is.

I hope that was a pretty big diode...

- Eric

edit: I just realized that I described the opposite of the failure mode I assumed you have -
I said that you crank and it seems to be starting, then release the key and it doesn't run.
In fact, what you would have with the bypass wire disconnected is the condition where you crank and it doesn't quite start, but then if you release the key just right, it stumbles and runs.

Last edited by MDchanic; September 3rd, 2016 at 08:04 PM.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:09 PM
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Man I am glad I found the instructions online.



Second part


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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:14 PM
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Okay, that is what I'd imagined.

So, if you did that, the bypass wire part should work.

Next, you need to determine which of the failure modes I described in my edit immediately above is the one you've got, and then do some testing.

One wire isn't supplying current when it's supposed, to - the question is which one?

- Eric
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:16 PM
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The new wire I ran should have 12V when I turn the ignition on right? I get no voltage.

Last edited by enthusiast; September 3rd, 2016 at 08:18 PM.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:26 PM
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Right.

Did you test the wire you spliced into before you spliced into it, such as by pushing a push pin through it and checking for voltage with the key in RUN?

- Eric
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:28 PM
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No. I am going to drop the steering column again.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:33 PM
  #48  
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Eh. Takes 5 minutes.

Pull the two plugs and compare the wires to the wires on the pinout along the edges of the schematic in the CSM, to confirm that you've got the right one. Sometimes the colors can be deceiving, especially in the shadows under the dash.

- Eric

edit: the pinout is on the bottom, just right of center - not the clearest, but it should help.

Last edited by MDchanic; September 3rd, 2016 at 08:35 PM.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:45 PM
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Csm?
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 08:49 PM
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Chassis Service Manual.

- Eric
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 09:02 PM
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Oh yeah that one. I don't have that.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 09:13 PM
  #52  
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Grrrrrrrrrr...

Ignition switch has thick red wire in,

Brown, Brown/White, Orange, Green, Purple, and Pink out.

You want Pink. Bottom of larger plug, Red diagonally next to it, Purple 2 spaces above it (diagonal to Red).



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Old September 3rd, 2016, 09:26 PM
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Sorry Eric. I took out one of my light tester probe. Checked the pink wire and it lights up when I turn ignition on and vice versa. So, something I did. Going to take wire off and retry.
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 09:28 PM
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At least you know where to look.

You'll find it.

- Eric
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Old September 3rd, 2016, 09:43 PM
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Eureka! Took of the inline splice terminal (junk) and noticed the wire came out when I was taping it up. I looped the wire around the pink one (will solder tomorrow) and gave it a go. Sweet music to my ears!

Thanks so much Eric! I would gladly paypal you some funds for some brews if you want.

It is funny I have done more complicated work on my Diesel, I even converted my Subaru to run E85 but on this old gal I feel like I don't know anything.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 04:50 AM
  #56  
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Crimp connectors = No. Solder everything.

Glad you found it!

And you can buy me a beer next time you're on Maine.

- Eric
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