47 Convertible

I posted my factory front seat for sale in the classifieds Oldsmobile Parts. Tried to price them right as I mostly want the seat gone. Its in OK shape with the bottom particularly good and seat backs needing some work. Pics in the ad. Take a look if interested. Thanks.
Jerry

citcapp

Here are pics[/QUOTE]

Yep that's a factory display hood

citcapp

47 Convertible

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just gonna bump it up to the top this one time in case someone missed this rare opportunity

1946oldsdynamic

Hi there, I just bought one. It's an original 46 76 series sedan, flat 6 with hydramatic. Project car but very original. I'm looking for an example of how the shifter linkage goes back together. Thanks for any help. These cars seem somewhat rare these days

47 Convertible

47 Convertible

Well I flubbed the first attempt to reply so will try again.

Get yourself a copy of the 1948 Oldsmobile Master Chassis Parts Book. It will include what you want to know and applies to your 46 as well. There is a lot of information you will use in that book. I find mine invaluable along with my Hollanders 16th Edition Interchange Manual which is available on ebay from time to time.

These 48 Parts books are reproductions and are on ebay frequently or you can get if from Faxon Auto Literature 800-458-2734, www.faxonautolit.com

Section 4 on transmissions has an exploded view of the column shift and how it connects to transmission.
Jerry

citcapp

http://s372.photobucket.com/user/citcapp/media/48%20Olds/20150122_135312_resized_1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

If you can't cut & past this picture to resize the go to the link and upload

klm57

47 Convertible

Good for you for hanging onto the original straight eight. I don't have that much restraint. I learned to drive in a 50 Pontiac straight 8-- a very similar engine. It seemed to have a lot of torque and Lord knows that hydramatic was strong because I abused both as a would-be hot rodder at age 14. My dad always thought the Pontiac was a lemon but he didn't know how my older brother and I flogged that poor car once we were out of the neighborhood. Yours should last a good long time if you don't have a couple of teenagers driving it.

zii

Swedish '48 owner reporting in. Just joined the forum. Got the car, a modified Series 66 Club Coupé, in August 2014.

There's a short introduction + 1 pic in the Newbie forum, will start a separate thread later with more pics and info.

47 Convertible

Welcome zii, We're glad you posted on this thread. It is the best place to get information, parts etc. for our 40s Oldsmobiles. Now I will go over to the Newbie forum and see your car and read your introduction.
Jerry

DTBass

I recently saw for sale a 1950 Pontiac sedanette for parts. Does anybody know if the doors will fit my 1948 Oldsmobile 98. They look strikingly familiar. Thanks
Doug

47 Convertible

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The best way to get the answer is to get a copy of a Hollander's Interchange Manual that cover those years. My 16th Edition only goes to about 1948. Here is a link through Faxons: http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1...al-P12238.aspx
Not cheap but well worth it. I can't even begin to estimate how many times I've gone to my Hollanders 16th Edition for myself and others--probably several hundred searches. A great reference tool.

Jerry

DTBass

Thanks I was trying to avoid spending the money on the interchange book but I suppose it's time. Dang should've put it on my Christmas list. Thanks

Razorback1999

Hello new to the forums just bought me a 1949 88 it is pretty much all there but missing the front and rear bumpers any help would be great looking for where I can get replacement parts and if other body's from pontiacs or Chevy would work. So stocked to get it on the road, I can't afford right now to do complete restore but hope one day.

blucar

This fellow sent me a PM regarding his search for parts, I could not respond to him because he has not activated his PM function.
I have not been on line for quite some time because of my wife's poor health. Bill

47 Convertible

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Hi Bill, I'm the guy who directed him to you with all good intentions because you have such a wealth of knowledge on those years.

I had missed your postings and did not realize it was due to your wife's poor health or I would not have done so. I'm sorry to hear about all that. I will try to get back in touch with him and think I can do so through his initial post in the newbie sub forum.

If you would rather not respond to his pm let me know through pm and I will try to find him some other resource though I know of none as good as you.
Jerry

gonepaddling

Hi. Just picked up a 1947 Series 66 4 door with 6 cylinder and hydramatic and joined this site. Add me to the list of 46,47 48 owners. I'm in Ontario, Canada

47 Convertible

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Welcome to CO, Vintage Oldsmobiles and particularly the 46-48 thread which seems to have a life of its own. We like pictures and we like regular updates on whatever you are doing with your Olds. You might have to wait until the mandatory five posts before you can do pics but maybe not. Lots of other good information in the various forums.
I look forward to your regular participation.
Jerry

blucar

Hi Jerry, No problem giving out my name to anyone seeking info, etc., on the '46-50 Olds cars. I'm always glad to help in any way I can...
Bill

Razorback1999

What is out there to put power breaks on a 49 rocket 88 I right now just want to put power breaks and later do the disc conversion unless theres a inexpensive one out there that comes with power booster and disc.

blucar

Razorback.. The vehicles that have floor mounted peddle assemblies, like the '49-50 has, is somewhat difficult to add power brakes to.. If you can find an old "Hydra-Vac" unit, which does not require a direct mechanical linkup with the peddle assembly, that would be the cheapest, easiest way to add power brakes.
The second option is to add an under the floor power booster which is quite common on street rods. I don't care for them, they interfere with exhaust clearance and have fluid residual bleed-down issues.
The best power brake option is to change the peddle assembly to a late model GM unit that has a power booster..
I used a peddle assembly from a '78-79 Cad Seville.. I also used a steering column from a '78-79 Olds.
If you read through my thread/topic; 49 Olds 88 2dr club sdn rebuild, you will see the methods I used to modified my '49 Olds. I did over two years of research before I ever turned a bolt on the car..
From my prospective, you can throw good money after bad, trying to piece-meal the car together, which generally will result in a vehicle that is borderline unsafe and unreliable.
If you want to go the economy path, I have a complete brand new disk brake conversion assembly for a '49-51 Olds... $500. plus shipping, it's worth close to $1,000.
I bought the conversion assembly because the "old school guys" told me that was the way to go.. The more I checked into it, I found that there was better ways to make the car safer and more drivable.
Most everyone wants to put a 455 engine in the early Olds, a better choice is a Olds 403 from the late '70's.. They are a little more compact, leaving plenty of room for accessories, and they will put out more power than a 455..
When you read through my '49 Olds topic you will note that I kept the stock rear end and rear suspension.. The stock '49-51 rear ends are stronger than the venerated Ford 9" or GM 12 bolt, the suspension is superior to any later model setup. This includes the hydraulic lever shocks.
Probably more info than what you really wanted, you asked the questions, I'll do my best to give you good answers..
I have attached a pix of the firewall on my '49 showing my brake booster.
Bill

Razorback1999

That is so cool I have been racking my Brain on how Im going to make this car safe for my family it has the org 303 in it now with the hydromatic auto, I will pick it up Saturday and the first thing i have to do is drop the tank and clean it out to see if i can get it to fire up. The car has been sitting for 7 years in his garage he said so its going to be a work in progress I would love to keep the Org engine in it,but will have to see. With aftermarket powerbooster did you use? and thank you for all the insight I will now head over to your thread and read

blucar

In some respects it can be very very desirable to retain the stock power train in a vintage vehicle, that is if you want a Sunday parade car. The Olds 303 CID engine and Hydramatic trans was a great combination in the 1950's, however, the expense of fixing them and the poor fuels we now have to use has changed the game.
The 78-79 Olds 403 and 2004R trans I used is almost 500 lbs lighter than the 303 hydro combo. That is a huge savings in weight. If you look around you can find a good late '70's Olds with under 100k on it to use as a source of parts. DON'T USE A OLDS 350, they are throw away engines.
The power brake booster on my car is the type used on the mid size bodied GM cars.. Nova, Chevelle, Camaro, Seville, etc.,
Bill

Razorback1999

Right now I'm not sure what I want to do with it main goal is to get it running and Be able to play with it this spring and summer. As I found out since moving here last year Wisconsin have long winters so I'll have plenty of time to do swaps and all that.

Razorback1999

Looking at switching 6v to 12v is a 49 a negative ground or a postive ground and how do you tell the difference? Thank you

blucar

I believe that you will find that the '49 Olds 88 is a positive ground, most 6v vehicles are. The battery positive post will be grounded to the frame or engine.
Changing from 6v to 12v is not an easy switch.. All of the instruments, accessories, and ignition have to be changed..
A easier upgrade is to use a 8v battery, the regulator has to be turned up to 8v +, however, as a general rule the 8v will have no effect on the instruments, accessories, etc. Farm stores generally carry 8v batteries because they are more common in farm equipment.
The use of 8v batteries in 6v cars use to be a very common application, especially in the colder areas of the country.
You have stated in your earlier comments to this thread that your main goal was to get the car running. I would suggest that you go very slow on making any modifications to the mechanical components of the car. As a general rule, each modification will result in a chain of events all associated with large cash outlays.. Bill

47 Convertible

Blucar has good advice in the economy of staying with 6-8 V. But I believe 49s were neg. ground. I think among GM cars only Cadillac had pos. ground and that was long ago. Most other car makers used a positive ground. until the late 1950s. A smart *** reply about how do you tell would be to look at how your battery is hooked up. If you don't have a battery in it you can read endless posts on the Internet many of which don't agree with each other. Most seem to agree that all GMs back then except possibly Cadillac were neg ground. The standard since 12V came in the late 1950s is negative ground.

Since you are changing over to 12V that is the way you should go. Only the generator and the coil cared which side is ground and since you are going 12V you will need 12V coil and you would need 12V charging but I'd change to an alternator with internal voltage regulator as it is much more efficient than a generator and a lot less expensive. No need to change out the starter as it doesn't care.

It has nothing to do with neg. or pos. ground but Your light bulbs will need to be changed to 12V but you can get a voltage reducer for the bulbs in the instrument cluster if you don't want to change them to 12V.
Jerry

Razorback1999

Thanks for the input,s I will need to buy a battery any way because the car has been sitting for over 7 years. So I thought why not just switch it to the 12 v since im going to buy a battery anyway. I switched out a 6 v to 12 on a 34 ford by just changing blubs and a putting a alternator on and changing coil over so didnt know if it was the same with the olds. Is the 49 not manuel Insterment Cluster didnt think power Clusters where until 80s?

47 Convertible

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I was just referring to the light bulbs in the instrument cluster that come on with park and headlights so you can see instruments at night. Some guys put in a voltage reducer to the wire powering those instrument lights so they don't have to get into the back of the instrument panel to change out those small bulbs to 12V.

Charlie Jones

I just don't understand why anyone would need to change collector cars from 6 volt to 12 volt .They aren't driven in sub-zero weather , and even if they were , 6 volt systems if properly maintained are capable of starting them . They did this for many years before 12 volts systems came into vogue.
The biggest mistake that people make with 6 volt systems is to use 12 volt ( 4 or 6 guage) battery cables. Six volt systems must use 2 guage or thicker battery cables.
My advice would be to simply get a new 6 volt battery and go from there . Also get a 49 Oldsmobile shop manual so you know how to repair or adjust the system.
The 49 Olds has a negative ground system .

Charlie Jones

Wrong, The starter is being overloaded by twice the voltage and it can shorten its life .

blucar

Had a brain fart about the positive ground on GM cars.. Ford was the die hard with positive ground in the thirty's and later..
I'll go sit in the corner for awhile..

47 Convertible

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Theoretically you are correct. But the starter whether powered by 6 or 12 V does the same amount of work to start the engine. Typically it starts in less time with 12V. Starters are designed to be intermittent not constant so the extra heat that is the product of using 12V in reality does little harm unless you grind on and on and on which we all know is not the thing to do in either 6 or 12V.

Since the OP states he is changing to a 12V system, when that 6 volt starter wears out buy a 12V starter. In the meantime you avoid the expense of a new starter.

Olds changed to 12V in 1953 and the '53 cars were still 303 cubic inch

Starter Specs courtesy of Second Chance Garage:

6 volt 303 starter specs:
Part number: 1107956 (rotates clockwise)
Bush Spring Tension, Ounces: 24-28
No Load Test: 60 amps, 5.0 volts @ 6000 RPM
Torque Test: 600 Amps, 3.0 volts, Torque, Lbs.Ft.: 15

12 volt 303 starter specs:
Part number: 1107603 (rotates clockwise)
Bush Spring Tension, Ounces: 24-28
No Load Test: 75 amps, 10.3 volts @ 6500 RPM
Torque Test: 460 Amps, 5.2 volts, Torque, Lbs.Ft.: 11.5

zii

The 6V starter might go for a long time... I've heard of other 12V conversions where they never had to change the starter. (Don't remember the car model, probably something European.)

Something that most likely _will_ need to be replaced with a 12V version, is the windshield wiper motor.

blucar

It is pretty well common knowledge that if a 6v starter is in good shape it will work on 12v for quite some time.. A automotive starter is not a constant duty type of motor, it spins very quickly for just a few short seconds.
On the European comment.. Many of the European cars/vehicles were 12v back in the '30's.. Many of the U.S. manufactures offered 12v electrical systems on their export vehicles.
Windshield wipers;.. The vast majority of the cars/trucks built up through the mid to late '50's had vacuum wipers, not electric.. Bill

zii

Ah, right. I think I've seen the vacuum type somewhere, some time... but never used them. No idea how common they were. (My Series 66 was already 12V converted when I got it, and it has electric wipers.)

Weren't there vacuum power windows too btw?

Oh, and speaking of which, is there any decent looking (doesn't leave the axle visible) electric power window conversions for my car? I will of course do some searching but if anyone wants to enlighten me, feel free to do so... :P

47 Convertible

Some GM cars including Olds had hydraulic power windows but I don't recall vacuum powered.

Not sure what you mean by "leave the axle visible" electric power windows. Are you thinking of the shaft on hand crank windows? All power window converstions I've seen are self contained under the interior door panel. When converting you pull the manual crank mechanism and set it aside. Specialty Power Windows makes a good conversion. A little more cost than some of the others but better quality in my opinion. In any event look for brand name motors like Bosch and high amp rated (30-40 amp) when comparing kits. In this case cheapest maybe isn't the best.
Jerry

zii

You're right, It was probably hydraulic pw's i was thinking of.

And you interpreted my slightly vague question correctly too. Didn't know quite how the conversions were made.
Checking out their website now. Thanks!