Transmission coolant line. I’ve heard two teams of thought… really difficult… and Not that bad. If not that bad can I change it out just putting my 70 Cutlass up on ramps? also… an easy fix would be to attach a rubber radiator hose to the 5/16” metal pipe? So clamp it into said transmission coolant line! I had to cut my 5/16” pipe due to the flange end being almost meted to the fitting screw into the radiator. So I put together a compression fittings, but no matter how much I tightened it… drip drip drip! Any advice on addressing the compression fittings? Please advise…

 

Buy new lines from Inline tube and do it yourself, not a big deal. Yes, drive up on ramps to do it, or jack stands if it's too tight.

 

^^x2^^

 

Ok… Thank you sir!

 

If you enjoy your car, DO NOT USE REGULAR RUBBER HOSE!!

The hose designed for transmission fluid is of different construction to handle the heat and pressure of transmission fluid. Fuel hose will quickly soften and create a big leak, potentially followed by a big fire. You also need a barb or flare to prevent the hose from blowing off the tube.

The factory style cooler lines are less than a 100 bucks, including shipping. For that price it’s hard to justify wasting time bending/flaring tubing.

 

If you want to use transmission cooler hoses you can get an AN kit from Summit Racing. If pre-bent transmission cooler lines are only $100 though, that would probably be the way to go.

 

And use a line wrench and a backer wrench on the flare nuts/fittings whenever possible.

There is a technique to avoid cross threading.
Always make sure the flare seats parallel on the taper seat. You will need to lightly tweak (bend) the ends to get them just right.

Dont think the nut is going to do the work for you. Get it where it seats nice then go counter clockwise until you feel the first (starter) thread click (engage) then go clockwise to tighten. Dont over tighten. If it leaks go another 1/8 turn. Still leaks pull it apart and inspect the flare tapers.

You may need to tweak the line several times to get it to conform. The nut should start finger tight if you have it properly aligned.

This mentality applies to any type of flare fitting. Fuel, brake, vapor, et al.

 

[I ordered a new pipe as suggested will be here tomorrow hopefully! I was told that once I set my vehicle upon the Car ramps I should be able to access that end of line w/ relative ease? Is that correct or am I being duped!?!?


QUOTE=matt69olds;1645999]If you enjoy your car, DO NOT USE REGULAR RUBBER HOSE!!

The hose designed for transmission fluid is of different construction to handle the heat and pressure of transmission fluid. Fuel hose will quickly soften and create a big leak, potentially followed by a big fire. You also need a barb or flare to prevent the hose from blowing off the tube.

The factory style cooler lines are less than a 100 bucks, including shipping. For that price it’s hard to justify wasting time bending/flaring tubing.[/QUOTE]

 

I have used rubber hose and used fuel grade rubber hose or the braided lines, usually because I bypassed the rad and went straight to an external cooler. I would partially flair the line and use better EFI clamps, usually double on each end. I currently have braided lines with AN fittings, fit the TH350 and TH400 as well. I decided no external cooler was needed to keep the 4L80E, especially at my power level. It can be a PIA routing the lines especially if you have headers. Good luck.

 

Auto parts stores have power steering hose as well as fuel line hose, so no need to compromise on that. Put a flair / bulge on the steel line so the hose can’t slip off with a clamp tightened on it, and a hose barb in the radiator port.