Was going to take the Rad in to have it tested and cleaned cause it's been sitting for 13 years but can't get that bottom trans pipe off without twisting the whole line- I wanted to know if I just refresh coolant should I be OK? When I drained the old stuff it was not rust colored or anything but there was a bit of sediment. Will i damage the engine if there's gunk in the radiator that cycles through the cooling jackets. In order to service or replace radiator it looks like I will have to replace transmission coolant lines as well as they will get toasted during removal.

 

Have you tried socking the fitting with WD-40 or Blaster for awhile? Be sure to use a brass fitting wrench and not just an open end wrench. It should break loose. At worse you can cut the line and splice in a piece with a line coupling and a flaring tool. If you have found sediment and its not bad you could flush the radiator and block to clean out both and refill with a new mixture of 50/50 coolant and water. I forgot to ask is it overheating now? If not try the flush first and see how it runs.

 

I had it soaked with PB- and used heat- line wrench- delicate grip on the pipe with a wise grip- tapping- etc. it's on there good. I haven't started it yet- after sitting for 13 years I have been doing all the needed maintenance on it before firing it up- this and the tranny fluid are the last bits. I really want to drive it- so was not liking the idea of waiting for the rad-- getting new tranny pipe etc etc- but don't want my impatience to precede good smart mechanical process. I guess i'll try the flush- should i use any of those products out there or just good ol fashion garden hose.

 

Is it threaded into a fitting in front of the flare fitting. You may have to put a wrench on that fitting also.

 

Holding radiator-side fitting firmly with a wrench, with flare-nut wrench on tubing-side, strike flare-nut wrench sharply with a large hammer a few times.
The nut will probably break free.
Now, with the nut free of the radiator fitting, use the flare-nut wrench to move the nut back and forth very slightly on the tubing, over and over again, applying a bit more penetrating oil repeatedly as you do so. The oil should wick down the tubing inside the nut and slowly ease up and release.
Unscrew the nut, and there you are.

If it were me, though, I'd just give the system a good flush, fill it with fresh antifreeze, and drive the darn car.

- Eric

 

I'm going to buy a new radiator- are there any brands that are better than others? Rock Auto has a Spectra rad- Just wondering if there's a "best" that i should get?

Just an update- the trans line is still stuck at the fitting (after days of PB and heat and massage etc.)- and coolant is seeping from this area- Because it was running down the trans cooler line- i thought the line itself had a small stress fracture but it doesn't- the fitting in the rad is fubared because of my assault on the stuck hardware. So as a preemptive measure and a desire to bring this car into a solid state of tune- I ordered new stainless trans lines and want to attach them to a nice new rad- So wanted to know if there is a must have Rad- or should i be getting a beefier one- i think my stock rad is 1 row.