while taking replacing my radiator i broke the end of the tranny line that goes to the radiator. what is the best way to repair it? rubber tube or fit the end with a piece of line. or is it just better to replace the line completely?

72 cutlass supreme
350

 

I think it depends on what you are doing with the car. If you are showing it, a rubber hose spliced in might function, but it would stand out like a sore thumb. A piece of steel tubing flared and replacing a section and would be a better repair might also stand out at a show. But if it just to function for a driver, who cares.

I paid InLIne Tube $75 for a stainless set of lines, regular steel was $65, plus shipping which will bring either to about $100.

 

just a driver for me right now, are the complete lines easy to repair? it was easy to break it when i removed it.

 

You can buy pre-bent trans cooler lines from the usual pre-bent plumbing sources (Inline, Right Stuff, Classic), but they aren't cheap. You can get a length of same-diameter steel brake line and bend your own. Depending on where the break is you can also just replace the short section to the radiator and use a compression fitting to splice it to the remaining original line. The line pressure in the cooler lines isn't very high, so the compression fittings are fine.

 

^^^ That will work just fine as Joe mentioned.
if you have enough steel sticking out, then yes,
two Gates 1/4" clamps will work untill you find a more
permanant solution.
If twisted off at the fitting, you will to ferrel or flare the line.

 

This is the safest, easiest, and least expensive way to go.

 

I agree - compression fittings are fine, and save a bit of time over flared fittings (and money if you don't already have a flare tool).

- Eric

 

If you use rubber hose make sure its hose rated for transmission fluid. Most parts store carry transmission cooler installation kits that will have the proper hose. Regular rubber fuel line wont handle the pressure, and quickly deteriorate from the oil.

 

how would you guys cut the end of the line thats broken? its not a clean break.

 

With a tubing cutter.

- Eric

 

A hacksaw will work in a clinch also. But a tubing cutter as Eric said is best. Make sure you debur the inside of the tubing.

 

think harbour freight has a mini tube cutter that looks like it will work.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-8-eig...ter-92878.html

 

That one's fine, but your local hardware store, Home Despot, etc. should have an assortment, too.

- Eric

 

did you guys keep the spring in the lower radiator hose?

 

Hell, yeah.

- Eric

 

Hacksaw my deposit shavings in the line.

 

If you delete the spring you take
a chance of the hose collapsing.
Not good. ALWAYS use one in your
V-8 Oldsmobile engine. I know I do.

 

got a leak where i used rubber hose to repair the tranny line. got the hose pretty far up the line and clamp on tight. cant see why it would leak there, any suggestions?

 

Yeah - use steel line and compression fittings.

Failing that, use a couple more hose clamps, and make 'em TIGHT, like gorilla.

- Eric

 

Can you post a picture?

 

Make sure the rest of the line is solid enough to be repaired. You said "it was easy to break it when i removed it." If the rest of the line is junk, then you should invest in a complete pair of lines.

 

I had to do a similar repair to the upper line on my Cutlass. I used a compression fitting just like the one in the pictures on this thread. I bought a length of new stainless tubing and bent it in the shape of the old section, double-flared the radiator end and was good to go. After some driving there was a very small leak, but I cinched it up a bit and has been good so far. When I last checked it, I discovered that now the lower tube is seeping a bit! I'll try cinching that one a bit as well, and see how it goes. Be very careful tightening the fittings that go into the radiator. You don't want to strip those threads. Use the hands of a surgeon! A professional mechanic friend of mine said it's not unusual for new repairs to leak due to vibration, etc. Especially with new fittings going into new threads on your radiator. Chumley

 

[I used this exact set up for my cut section of flange pipe. I have 5/16” inch pipe and I used 5/16” compression fitting.. was I correct in doing same? Also what the trick for setting said fitting up? I need up with a leak like every 45 seconds..!I tightened it the way I was told. At first I had no leaks then I got cute and tried to seal it with a heat sensitive shrink wrap..

QUOTE=joe_padavano;517791]You can buy pre-bent trans cooler lines from the usual pre-bent plumbing sources (Inline, Right Stuff, Classic), but they aren't cheap. You can get a length of same-diameter steel brake line and bend your own. Depending on where the break is you can also just replace the short section to the radiator and use a compression fitting to splice it to the remaining original line. The line pressure in the cooler lines isn't very high, so the compression fittings are fine.

[/QUOTE]

 

[l I cut my 5/16 inch pipe for my transmission coolant. I cleaned up the cut and I filed it down as best I could, but for some reason the fitting which I tightened pretty tight is leaking probably six drops a minute maybe five. Can anyone walk me through the set up of the compression fitting as it pertains to not allowing for leaks? Because that’s the only thing I have wrong here please advise anybody who can help me. Thank you so much!

QUOTE=joe_padavano;517791]You can buy pre-bent trans cooler lines from the usual pre-bent plumbing sources (Inline, Right Stuff, Classic), but they aren't cheap. You can get a length of same-diameter steel brake line and bend your own. Depending on where the break is you can also just replace the short section to the radiator and use a compression fitting to splice it to the remaining original line. The line pressure in the cooler lines isn't very high, so the compression fittings are fine.

[/QUOTE]
compression fitting