My 72 clutch replacement begins...
#88
I’ve got to get a magnet dial indicator to test fly wheel run out - bell housing parallel-ity ? (Making words up I think) and bell housing concentricity - also need to measure for throw out bearing and depth for input shaft tip and splines clearance to the crank shaft and pilot bearing - clutch / pp will be here today - hurst bushing kit tomorrow - throw out bearing Thursday - and the parts place hasn’t bothered to let me know in clutch fork just like they don’t know on freight - kinda hate that place ... I asked about the clutch fork pivot ball but didn’t hear anything so just going to run it. Hopefully I can get measurements done before Friday - if not the project will have to hold for two weeks - but made a lot of progress - thanks for listening!
Well. Got my pilot bushing today. Sticks solid to a magnet so not quite the quality I was hoping for - guess we will see
Well. Got my pilot bushing today. Sticks solid to a magnet so not quite the quality I was hoping for - guess we will see
#89
https://youtu.be/NzfjbAqeTR4 made a YouTube video showing play in input shaft - how do I accurately measure it and how much is too much?
Last edited by 72442455; June 9th, 2020 at 07:46 AM.
#90
Too much play IMO, remove the front cover, and check the bearing, I’ll bet it needs replacement, the crank bushing doesn’t support the input shaft.
Last edited by dc2x4drvr; June 9th, 2020 at 09:38 AM.
#91
thanks DC - I think she’s going to have to ride it out until the next clutch replacement unfortunately - I don’t have time or $ at the moment for this - perfect storm of life things I have to pay for - I do plan on pulling the motor and drilling the crank and rebuilding the Muncie with an uncircumcised input shaft down the road. But I need this to be mobile asap - it’s spent three summers with big projects going on and sitting in pieces - going to carefully measure. Put it back together and pray for the best - appreciate your help. I did watch some Muncie rebuild videos and it looks doable - but I need to study a lot more first
#92
When you pull the flywheel, you’ll have a view of the area around the rear main seal, if you see a leak, you have 2 choices, ignore it, or pull the motor, I tried to replace the seal in my car..never again. Check torque on the pan bolts, that could be the source of the front leak.
#94
when I do do it - i will take either the crank or whole motor in to have it machined - don’t need to now as input shaft is already circumcised - I might have to do some modifying to the pilot bushing - will see once I’m done measuring
#97
3=Olds
2=1972
M=Lansing
130855=last six of VIN
The TAG in the second pic is the OLDS Part Number for that particular model of trans. A trans with the same physical characteristics and casting numbers could go in a Chebby, but it would have a different Part Number on it's tag.
You should also find a stamped number starting with a capital "P." That will be the date of manufacture code. It should have a trailing A, B, or C, denoting M20, M21, or M22. The date code will be stamped into an edge/rim similar to the VIN derivative, and usually on the opposite side from the VIN derivative.
You've done great and learned a lot getting to this point!! Great job!!! Be proud!
#98
The first pic is your VIN derivative.
3=Olds
2=1972
M=Lansing
130855=last six of VIN
The TAG in the second pic is the OLDS Part Number for that particular model of trans. A trans with the same physical characteristics and casting numbers could go in a Chebby, but it would have a different Part Number on it's tag.
You should also find a stamped number starting with a capital "P." That will be the date of manufacture code. It should have a trailing A, B, or C, denoting M20, M21, or M22. The date code will be stamped into an edge/rim similar to the VIN derivative, and usually on the opposite side from the VIN derivative.
You've done great and learned a lot getting to this point!! Great job!!! Be proud!
3=Olds
2=1972
M=Lansing
130855=last six of VIN
The TAG in the second pic is the OLDS Part Number for that particular model of trans. A trans with the same physical characteristics and casting numbers could go in a Chebby, but it would have a different Part Number on it's tag.
You should also find a stamped number starting with a capital "P." That will be the date of manufacture code. It should have a trailing A, B, or C, denoting M20, M21, or M22. The date code will be stamped into an edge/rim similar to the VIN derivative, and usually on the opposite side from the VIN derivative.
You've done great and learned a lot getting to this point!! Great job!!! Be proud!
#99
clutch fork came in from parts place and centerforce throw out bearing - clutch and pressure plate should be tomorrow - hopefully early - might get all my measurements done tomorrow - then Hopefully reassemble
#101
#104
I suspect 30 ft lb may be for the bell housing:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-specs-106813/
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-specs-106813/
Last edited by Tri-Carb; June 11th, 2020 at 01:01 PM.
#105
I suspect 30 ft lb may be for the bell housing:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-specs-106813/
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-specs-106813/
I like the “transmission to engine bolts” for the 4 speed manual transmission - I had mine all wrong - I had a bell housing between the transmission and engine ... hehe - I think I got it figured out - thank you!
#107
Last edited by 72442455; June 11th, 2020 at 06:30 PM.
#109
thanks Randy - that’s exactly what I’m going to do - maybe resurfacing it caused crap to get down there or something - I took the pressure plate off and tried just rolling the bolts in there alone and they felt tight / weird - don’t want to strip anything 😩
#110
#111
Does that little bump in the throw out bearing matter which way it faces? Or does it go towards or away from the fork? Thanks!
#113
#119
Fine tuned everything on the cutty today - car is doing great! At 75 mph I’m at 3,000 rpms (3:23 rear end) oil pressure between 40 and 60 - runs cool at about 190 - after about 30 minutes of cruising no visible leaks - will continue to monitor it as I go but I think I have got it mechanically sound for daily driving! Now to make it pretty ....
#120
Just a follow up - centerforce dual friction clutch on my 72 w/ 455 - I’ve ran it 1,500 miles so far city and highway and it’s great! Couldn’t be happier - thanks again all for your help!
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