F-body steering box in an A-body
F-body steering box in an A-body
I've read the warnings for years that installing a steering box from a 2nd gen Trans Am into a 64-72 A-body can result in decreased turning radius, but I've never paid much attention because I had already done it back in the late 90s, before I ever started reading about Oldsmobiles on the internet.
I had installed a box from a junkyard '78 Firebird into my '67, including the '78 rag joint and female steering shaft end. (I just cut the '67 steering shaft off near the end, and the female rag joint end of the '78 shaft slid right on like it was meant to fit that way.) Once fitted, it worked great and the car turned sharply, so I disregarded all of the warnings I saw online.
The car has run that way for over 15 years, but I finally felt like it was time to replace the junkyard box with a rebuilt unit - my steering was starting to wander a bit, but all of the steering and suspension components felt tight. I ordered an A1 Cardone 27-6510 (2.75 turns lock-lock) rebuilt unit from Amazon for $120 and installed it last weekend. Well... my steering tightened up, but now I see what everyone was talking about!
Apparently the '78 steering box I picked up years ago was from a base Firebird or something, because it had the super-light steering characteristic of GM luxury cars, and it was at least 3-3.5 turns lock-lock. This new box is much stiffer to steer, and with only 2.75 turns, I really notice how much less turning radius I have. While I like the nice tight feel of the new box, I'm actually considering sending the old one off to have it rebuilt to reinstall - I think I was happier with that one (when it had fewer miles and felt a bit tighter).
Anyway, this is just FYI to anyone considering the swap of a 2nd gen F-body box into an A-body.
I had installed a box from a junkyard '78 Firebird into my '67, including the '78 rag joint and female steering shaft end. (I just cut the '67 steering shaft off near the end, and the female rag joint end of the '78 shaft slid right on like it was meant to fit that way.) Once fitted, it worked great and the car turned sharply, so I disregarded all of the warnings I saw online.
The car has run that way for over 15 years, but I finally felt like it was time to replace the junkyard box with a rebuilt unit - my steering was starting to wander a bit, but all of the steering and suspension components felt tight. I ordered an A1 Cardone 27-6510 (2.75 turns lock-lock) rebuilt unit from Amazon for $120 and installed it last weekend. Well... my steering tightened up, but now I see what everyone was talking about!
Apparently the '78 steering box I picked up years ago was from a base Firebird or something, because it had the super-light steering characteristic of GM luxury cars, and it was at least 3-3.5 turns lock-lock. This new box is much stiffer to steer, and with only 2.75 turns, I really notice how much less turning radius I have. While I like the nice tight feel of the new box, I'm actually considering sending the old one off to have it rebuilt to reinstall - I think I was happier with that one (when it had fewer miles and felt a bit tighter).
Anyway, this is just FYI to anyone considering the swap of a 2nd gen F-body box into an A-body.
When I put a new fresh rebuilt (lares) (steering gear rebuilders) in my 72 it was harder to steer than I wanted, I called lares they advised that it would take a few hundred miles to break in. sure enough by 300 miles the steering feel is excellent and the fast ratio box is great too. lifetime warrenty about $180 from rockauto
When I put a new fresh rebuilt (lares) (steering gear rebuilders) in my 72 it was harder to steer than I wanted, I called lares they advised that it would take a few hundred miles to break in. sure enough by 300 miles the steering feel is excellent and the fast ratio box is great too. lifetime warrenty about $180 from rockauto
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Lares 974, although the 972 is also shown as a possible replacement
Here's a thread link, I found lares to be responsive and helpful on the phone and IM
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...nda-tight.html
Here's a thread link, I found lares to be responsive and helpful on the phone and IM
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...nda-tight.html
Nice, thanks for the reply and part numbers!
I'm on my second AGR box on the clone, and, well, they suck. The first gittered at the top going down the road, then started to leak like an old harley. It eventually started spraying out the side of the plate on left hand turns. The second one is better, but it still has a slight gitter at the top, so when at speed, like on the highway, it wanders, or requires a lot of correction/input. So there's internal leaking going on with that one too.
And no, all the suspension parts are new, it's properly aligned, etc. When I went from the first box to the second box, it was very obvious it was due to the box. I had the clone on an alignment rank and checked all the parts multiple times, think I paid for 3 alignments.
So I'm in need of a box. The LARES looks good, and the price is right.
I've tried Cardone rebuilt ones, and one other auto parts brand (can't remember), and those are a total crap-shoot as to what kind of internal stops you get. Some are F-body, some not, you just never know, so not going down that road again.
The 10:1 ratio I believe is how it's listed for a variable ratio, which can be misleading. True the GM fast ratio boxes are listed as 12.7:1, but those are f-body boxes.
.
I'm on my second AGR box on the clone, and, well, they suck. The first gittered at the top going down the road, then started to leak like an old harley. It eventually started spraying out the side of the plate on left hand turns. The second one is better, but it still has a slight gitter at the top, so when at speed, like on the highway, it wanders, or requires a lot of correction/input. So there's internal leaking going on with that one too.
And no, all the suspension parts are new, it's properly aligned, etc. When I went from the first box to the second box, it was very obvious it was due to the box. I had the clone on an alignment rank and checked all the parts multiple times, think I paid for 3 alignments.
So I'm in need of a box. The LARES looks good, and the price is right.
I've tried Cardone rebuilt ones, and one other auto parts brand (can't remember), and those are a total crap-shoot as to what kind of internal stops you get. Some are F-body, some not, you just never know, so not going down that road again.
The 10:1 ratio I believe is how it's listed for a variable ratio, which can be misleading. True the GM fast ratio boxes are listed as 12.7:1, but those are f-body boxes.
.
I pulled close ratio box off a low mile 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee for about $40. It has the stops in the right spots and a big torsion bar. I did a right up on ROP on the swap.
Last edited by 4speed455; Mar 5, 2014 at 03:28 PM.
I have one on my '72 and it could not be better.
I believe that a box off a 1993 - 1998 Grand Cherokee (must be a GRAND Cherokee) will fit when you use the rag joint from a 1987, etc GM pickup.
It is a simple install and gives the steering wheel feel of a new car. I absolutely love mine.
Here is the link to my thread on ROP. I got the lares coupler from advanced auto for $20.
http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/topic1558.html
http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/topic1558.html
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