A/C delete squeal from hell
#1
A/C delete squeal from hell
Ive been searching online. and it seems when i deleted my smog and a/c. It is the reason that i get a ridiculous noise of screeching. I replaced water pump. and have new belts. still squeaks. will get hot and break
How do I stop this.
Im reading by getting a pulley attachment(need part number) and adding a belt to help.
or relocating my alternator.
Thank you for any help.
How do I stop this.
Im reading by getting a pulley attachment(need part number) and adding a belt to help.
or relocating my alternator.
Thank you for any help.
#2
I am seeing that I can buy a 2 groove pulley for the power steering. If i do this. does anyone know what belt number i will need?
could be a dumb question, but couldnt i run a belt from the groove closest to the motor around the water pump? would this resolve the squeak
could be a dumb question, but couldnt i run a belt from the groove closest to the motor around the water pump? would this resolve the squeak
#4
tightened the ps by prying against, and tightin the screw. then did alt. tried a variety of tensions.
what ive scene from others, is they are having the same problem after the a/c smog delete. That is when the squeaking started. then it would go away. now it is here to stay
Im seeing that i can get the dual pulley PS pulley, but i dont know what belt to get for the alt to run around that.
what ive scene from others, is they are having the same problem after the a/c smog delete. That is when the squeaking started. then it would go away. now it is here to stay
Im seeing that i can get the dual pulley PS pulley, but i dont know what belt to get for the alt to run around that.
#7
Apparently you didn't search HERE...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...lt-squeal.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-slipping.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...elt-loose.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...lt-squeal.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-removed.html
At the risk of yet again repeating myself, I have personally run my 307s without the A/C and A.I.R. belt in place with NO, NADA, ZILCH squealing. Be sure you are properly adjusting the tension in the PS pump belt. See the photos in the threads I've linked to.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...lt-squeal.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-slipping.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...elt-loose.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...lt-squeal.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-removed.html
At the risk of yet again repeating myself, I have personally run my 307s without the A/C and A.I.R. belt in place with NO, NADA, ZILCH squealing. Be sure you are properly adjusting the tension in the PS pump belt. See the photos in the threads I've linked to.
#8
Belt squeal is related to these things:
1. Glazed belts & pulleys
2. One of the components is seized up or has higher than normal rotational force. So it
could be causing belt slip or you could be hearing bearing squeal?
3. Loose belt. ( improper deflection)
4. Pulley misalignment.
5. A counter rotation component put in the wrong application
6. Wrong belt "shiv" dimension. Width & depth not belt length unless it’s too long to
tighten to proper deflection spec.
7. Pulley mismatch different shiv angle and depth. Less likely unless you really have a
Hodge-podge of parts.
8. The pitch and angle you’re trying to overcome with the missing pump could be a
problem too. May have to install an idler. Usually on the newer cars that’s the solution
if a customer doesn't want to spend the money on say a new A/C pump we bypass it
with a idler if possible.
Several ways to obtain an unknown belt size. One method is to use string or twine and wrap it where the belt should live. Or cut down a longer belt. Take that string dimension or belt to an auto house that has a good selection and grab two or three within that range. They generally come in 1-2" increments. Try them all until you find one that will give you mid-scale resolution (middle of the adjustment travel). Stay clear of the cogged style belts in favor of the solid.
My bet is #2 or # 4. But step one is to check for proper tension deflection then move to the more complicated problems.
1. Glazed belts & pulleys
2. One of the components is seized up or has higher than normal rotational force. So it
could be causing belt slip or you could be hearing bearing squeal?
3. Loose belt. ( improper deflection)
4. Pulley misalignment.
5. A counter rotation component put in the wrong application
6. Wrong belt "shiv" dimension. Width & depth not belt length unless it’s too long to
tighten to proper deflection spec.
7. Pulley mismatch different shiv angle and depth. Less likely unless you really have a
Hodge-podge of parts.
8. The pitch and angle you’re trying to overcome with the missing pump could be a
problem too. May have to install an idler. Usually on the newer cars that’s the solution
if a customer doesn't want to spend the money on say a new A/C pump we bypass it
with a idler if possible.
Several ways to obtain an unknown belt size. One method is to use string or twine and wrap it where the belt should live. Or cut down a longer belt. Take that string dimension or belt to an auto house that has a good selection and grab two or three within that range. They generally come in 1-2" increments. Try them all until you find one that will give you mid-scale resolution (middle of the adjustment travel). Stay clear of the cogged style belts in favor of the solid.
My bet is #2 or # 4. But step one is to check for proper tension deflection then move to the more complicated problems.
Last edited by droldsmorland; February 14th, 2013 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Joe typed to fast or I typed to slow prob the latter
#9
I haven't done it myself, but for what it's worth, a few people I know have solved that problem by relocating the alternator to the passenger side of the engine. Just install a set of passenger side brackets for the alternator, they aren't that difficult to find........... This should rebalance the tension on the crank and water pump pullies since you will now be pulling from both side of the engine just as if the A/C compressor was still mounted....
#10
Thank you for all of the links. I have a couple of those saved. I have been researching all day.
I am going to try to adjust the PS in the manner described.
I know where the "threw" bolt is.
then there is the bracket mount down underneath. what area is the second front bolt positioned? I believe that is where my mystery left over bolt is going to go.
how many "turns" slack should be on the PS belt?, and the alt while i'm here
Thank you very much
I am going to try to adjust the PS in the manner described.
I know where the "threw" bolt is.
then there is the bracket mount down underneath. what area is the second front bolt positioned? I believe that is where my mystery left over bolt is going to go.
how many "turns" slack should be on the PS belt?, and the alt while i'm here
Thank you very much
#11
how many "turns" slack should be on the PS belt?, and the alt while i'm here
#12
Almost had the PS adjusted. the kid that was helping me busted the top mount part of that holds the alternator. it just snaped in half, cheap aluminum braket.
Question is, What is that top bracket called? Im trying to find a replacement to mount up the alternator in the stock location
any help is apricated. advanced and napa could not get
i will try junk yards if i have to, but living in CT, they dont have many olds sitting left, that im aware of
Question is, What is that top bracket called? Im trying to find a replacement to mount up the alternator in the stock location
any help is apricated. advanced and napa could not get
i will try junk yards if i have to, but living in CT, they dont have many olds sitting left, that im aware of
#13
Almost had the PS adjusted. the kid that was helping me busted the top mount part of that holds the alternator. it just snaped in half, cheap aluminum braket.
Question is, What is that top bracket called? Im trying to find a replacement to mount up the alternator in the stock location
any help is apricated. advanced and napa could not get
i will try junk yards if i have to, but living in CT, they dont have many olds sitting left, that im aware of
Question is, What is that top bracket called? Im trying to find a replacement to mount up the alternator in the stock location
any help is apricated. advanced and napa could not get
i will try junk yards if i have to, but living in CT, they dont have many olds sitting left, that im aware of
Any Olds 307-powered GM is a donor. Look under hood of late-1980s B-body wagons, as nearly every one of those got the 307 Olds. Same thing for Caddy Fleetwoods through 1990. Don't forget the early 1980s Eldo, Riviera, and Toro.
#15
Another thing to check, is the alterator itself. As I changed engines a couple times, and the front alternator bracket was rubbing on the alternator cooling fan. Talk about belt squeal, complete with a smoking alternator belt and all. While not the original question, I carry a spare set of V belts and tool kit in the car. Luckily I've never had to use any of this, but loaned the stuff out a couple times.
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