RetroRanger

My heater core leaks. The heater core was bypassed w a hose that runs from the water pump to the heater control valve on the back of the intake manifold.

Can I block off the heater core water nipple (my new water pump came w a 1" section of blocked off rubber hose) that I assume is to block off the heater nipple on the pump (no mention in the instructions)

can I block off w a pipe plug the heater control valve location on the intake manifold ?

I want to elminate that hose that runs from the water pump to the intake manifold, to do that I would block off both ends.

is this safe or reccomended ?

the first pic shows my heater control valve the hose nipple is deteriorated, plus I dont use the heat and want to remove that hose (see 2nd pic for hose, not my engine but shows the hose)

rjohnson442

I'd run a hose from one to another instead of blocking at both ends for circulation.

RetroRanger

I thought it might be good to circulate but I see the other head (drivers side) in the same spot at the back has a blocked off boss on the intake and as a result blocked off water port under it on the head.

plus if my heater valve is off no (little?) water circulates thru it anyways ??? thats what got me thinkng to eliminate the hose.....I just dont know if I should

joe_padavano

THANK YOU!

This "bypassing the heater" discussion comes up a lot on every automotive forum. There are people who swear that you MUST have the hose in place for "circulation", but as you correctly point out, why isn't it needed on the other side? The reality is that factory heater delete cars simply plugged the hole. There was no bypass hose.

RetroRanger

thanks for the responses

now if I can only find a 3/4 pipe plug ill be in good shape....Ive been to a couple places the 3/4 plug apparently isnt a fast mover or conversely is so popular everybody is out of them

oldcutlass

I would think any auto parts or hardware store would have 1. Do not get the chinsey pot metal one, don't ask me how I know. Get a steel hex plug or square plug and use plumbers thread sealer with Teflon so it will come back out when you want it to. It's a pipe fitting so don't over tighten.

RetroRanger

LOL thats what I thought too....two "auto parts" stores and one real auto parts store, and a good HW store came up w 0....the HW store had a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter i might get that as the 1/2 " plugs are easier to get...I got brass ones for the other open ports they appear to be decent quality.

I picked up the permetex thread sealer w PTFE a little pricey but it dries pliable and can be removed w ISO and is made for the application !!!

thanks for the tip on overtighting...as I reasearched the sizes I needed i saw that come up more than once use thread sealer and dont overtighten !!!

Lady72nRob71

Wow - that is one sweet-looking engine bay!!!


I had used a hose since it was only temporary and it was already connected to the water valve. It was easy just to ram the other end onto the water pump and be done with it until the core could be replaced.

oldcutlass

Another thought, Brass. Home depot has them.


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...gry=Search+All

Napa

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...891_0410424810

RetroRanger

haha I thought that might be yours Rob...I had it on my PC as a reference image your right it does look great ...well except for that straggler hose ....now you know what you have to do !!!!

thanks OC theres a NAPA over the hill from where I work I will give them a try tomorrow

70cutlass831guy

I plugged mine at the water pump with a mr gasket plug set and hose clamp. Then put a pipe manifold cap I found at o Riley's . It runs normal. My aluminum radiator also has a plugged extra line the same size as the water neck spout for the heater core I was thinking of maybe unplugging both and putting a hose instead of the plugs.

Lady72nRob71

Thanks - nice I made it to the reference section!
That nasty hose was taken care of a while back - heater core was replaced and all is well now.
I HAVE to finish the AC this coming spring. Need some major motivation here...

RetroRanger

done and done

pics show the back of the intake manifold w 3/4 pipe plug in the heater control position ( I ground off the C word on top of the plug cuz its a family forum and no-one wants to see that on it ) and the second pic is the new ac delco water pump w heater hose block off

Lady72nRob71

Personally I would keep another one of those rubber caps in the trunk in case the existing one pops. I have seen that before most likely due to poor quality material. They are not reinforced like hoses are.

RetroRanger

mmm I wondered about that when I put it on it didnt seem as robust as the bypass hose I put on next to it.

Do you or anyone else know of a better solution than the rubber cap ??

TripDeuces

Have a spare for sure. Considering you have roughly 15 psi on that rubber cap the math is easy. They also tend to dry rot fairly quickly, year or two. Changing it every year would be wise.

Just a question: What was the 'C' word you were referring to? Canada? lol

RetroRanger

that C word Mr duece was none other than China....I had to source the 3/4" plug from another HW store and all they had was chinese ones I didnt care for that so I ground off the c word) (sshhh i dont want anyone to know)

I oogled a google search and saw some folks pull the nipple, tap the orifice w a 1/2" pipe tap and screw in one of those pipe plugs to get rid of the rubber cap...some day Ill put in a new heater core for now I guess Ill get some spare rubber caps I dont want to permanently plug it

oldcutlass

I would carry a short piece of heater hose that has a plug in it and an extra clamp for when that cap blows.

RetroRanger

ok so thanks to all for the heads up on the rubber cap block off on the water pump, I had no idea the thing was a time bomb...alright so i dont like to walk so I had to make a trip to the local plumbing and electrical supply place and while I was there I saw these parts and it seems like this will be a more robust solution until i replace the heater core. An added bonus the plumbers local said they will feature my car in pics over at the union hall !!!! (ok I made that last part up cuz of all the pipe plugs on it )

anyway w out further ado here it is concerns commments criticisms welcome

70cutlass831guy

That clamp is a piece of junk also those rubber block offs crack fast.

RetroRanger

mmm so I've heard LOL I didnt know that, but I do now !!!

I replaced that shizzle before trying it !!! hopefully the new set-up meets with some approval

Lady72nRob71

That'll hold it - much better!
That first cap you had reminded me of BP's well capping jobs...
Might have done just as good with a bottle cork stuck in there.
I sure did not want to have that thing pop when you are on the road, for sure!

Octania

Why does car work ALWAYS sound naughty?

"I...saw some folks pull the nipple, tap the orifice... and screw

get rid of the rubber
I don't want to permanently plug it"

70cutlass831guy

hahaah looks good. my bad i didnt read the previous posts about the rubber plug.

RetroRanger

hmm all sounds quite normal to me Octania....must be the way your mind works LOL

actually I was wondering if anyone would pick up on that when I was writing it !!!

oldcutlass

That'll work.

rustyroger

Just approaching the problem from a different angle.... why not replace your heater core?.
I know you have already sorted your problem out, but if you drive your car in winter (assuming you live somewhere that has cold weather) you are going to miss the heater.

Roger.

RetroRanger

fair question roger. the car is fair weather only, so rarely is heat required, not to mention its already hot in there most of the time so the AC working would be higher on the priority list than heat LOL.

rjohnson442

In the hot weather a core would be nice if it starts to overheat. it could buy you some time you wish you had if it spikes.