I have my 70 cutlass that came with ac and heater.I took that off ad was woundering if they make a water pump for cars with no ac or heater?if so do you have a part number?

 

Given that these cars were designed in detroit, they all had at least a heater. I don't know what type of motor you have, but there is a NON-AC water pump. There may be a heaterless waterpump for a racing application, but I'm not really familiar with those. If you're using a stock water pump, you should be able to cap it off. They make rubber bypass caps for that, but they don't last very long. Your best bet is to run some the heater hose from the water pump to the heater outlet on the back of the head. You will need to adapt the 3/4" heater hose to the 5/8" heater outlet. I would suggest looking into something made of brass so it will last.

You should be able to remove the valve on the back of the motor and replace it with a plug, too. You could then close off the nipple on the water pump. Maybe you could weld it shut or maybe even have a machinist remove the nipple and replace it with a plug. Who knows? If all else fails, a short piece of hose with a large bolt clamped into the end will outlast the rubber bypass caps.

I'm new to the Oldsmobile motor, so I don't know if there are any detrimental effects to capping those off. I'm sure someone else will chime in. I did it on my Pontiac and didn't have any serious problems, but it was temporary. For reliability, your best bet is to leave the heater in, but it's your ride.


Good luck!

 

I would also suggest running a heater hose to the heater core outlet on the back of the head. If you use one of those rubber caps that come on new water pumps from the parts house it could blow off when your coolant system builds up pressure. The only other options would be a plug, or to weld it.

 

Before installing the water pump, pull the nipple (I usually weld on a nut and then use a slide hammer). Tap either 3/8 or 1/2 NPT (depending on hole size), install plugs with RTV. Be sure you get all metal shavings out of the pump. I do use the bypass and found it kept engine temp lower than plugging the bypass.

 

Yes they do. Unfortunately I threw one out last year, but it had no heater nipple on the pump - cast that way, but it did have the nipple for the bypass hose which you would still use. Someone told me they thought it was from a mid to late 70's Cutlass which had a heater, but pulled the coolant from another spot (intake or somewhere). Sorry, I don't have the casting number but maybe you can try to order one from a mid 70's and see what comes in at the parts store - you can always return it. More importantly you need to get one with the right length so the pullies line up also.

If yours works now, you may be able to pull the pressed in nipple out (I agree putting a rubber cover on, may blow off) and have it tapped for a pipe plug.

 

Many of the new pumps have two nipples and include a rubber cap to put over the heater one if you do not need it. Unfortunately the cheesy caps are weak and will blow when the temp gets up there for prolonged periods...
So evidently there are some apps that do not use it.

Blocking the heater line should be fine, as A/C cars had that line blocked by the heater valve when AC is off or on MAX.

 

This pump has only one heater hose outlet. I believe it was common in the eightys.

 

Used those pumps starting around mid 73. It was part of a modification to the heater return hose routing. They routed the return hose to the cold side radiator tank trying to reduce a heater "moan" noise they were getting a lot of complaints about.

You shoulda seen the original fix kit they issued for it before they changed the radiator and water pump. I see them on ebay from time to time, usually with a disclaimer that the seller has no idea what it is.

You will often find a rebuilt pump that has a freeze plug pressed into the heater return hose location for applications where it's not needed.