Quadrajet Float Level Adjustment
#1
Quadrajet Float Level Adjustment
Hey guys, I decided to just make a new thread on this, because i couldnt find any info on it on the site, and I know other people will probably get some info on this, but The quadrajet I recieved from holley runs great, but the float is just a little too high, and sometimes when i put my foot in it, i lose all power. How do i adjust the float level, im new to the quadrajets still. Thanks : )
#2
Uh oh. After this you might pitch it into the weeds. My mom always said about how to make gumbo was "first, you make a roux". Right. Whatever that is, mom. Well, first you take the top of the carburetor off (air horn). That is an adventure all by itself but it's not all that bad once you get the hang of it. Then, while the float is installed, hold the end of the float against the needle down in the seat, hold the power valve retainer down and then bend the metal arms of the float up or down. There is a little upside down v-notch in the arms where it will bend. Sucks.
Let's see if I can remember the little steps to taking the top off on the car. Remove choke pull off (vacuum break). Slide the roll pin that the accelerator pump arm pivots on far enough so out so that the pump arm can be removed being careful to note which hole the roll pin fit into. I have usually been able to push the roll pin with a screw driver from the back side just enough to get a hold on it on the front and then tap on whatever I am holding it with. Do this enough times on the same carb and you can pull the thing out with your fingernails because the pot metal the air horn is made out of has worn from the exercise. Remove the secondary metering rod hanger and secondary metering rods (one tiny little screw). Remove the screw that holds the choke arm to the choke. TRY HARD not to disturb the choke rod that drops down into the carb body so that it doesn't fall out of its little hole in the actuating arm way down in there. Remove nine screws holding the air horn on, not overlooking those two oh-so-scary ones that are down in the primaries that you do not want to drop. Magnetized (long) needle nose pliers are what I use. Tap the air horn gently to get the gasket to let go. Then have something long and thin the reach up in between the carb body and the air horn to separate the gasket from the air horn as you slowly lift it off.
Theoretically the choke actuator arm is supposed to pass through the opening in the air horn but I find this does not always work and the choke rod ends up popping out of the hole in the actuating lever down in the carb. In fact, I have gotten to where I don't even bother trying to get the air horn off with taking it loose first myself. It can be infuriating but it can be put back in after the air horn has been replaced if you lay on top of the motor with good light to be able to see way down there and, using needle nose pliers to hold the rod, turn the rod to put it back in the hole.
Let's see if I can remember the little steps to taking the top off on the car. Remove choke pull off (vacuum break). Slide the roll pin that the accelerator pump arm pivots on far enough so out so that the pump arm can be removed being careful to note which hole the roll pin fit into. I have usually been able to push the roll pin with a screw driver from the back side just enough to get a hold on it on the front and then tap on whatever I am holding it with. Do this enough times on the same carb and you can pull the thing out with your fingernails because the pot metal the air horn is made out of has worn from the exercise. Remove the secondary metering rod hanger and secondary metering rods (one tiny little screw). Remove the screw that holds the choke arm to the choke. TRY HARD not to disturb the choke rod that drops down into the carb body so that it doesn't fall out of its little hole in the actuating arm way down in there. Remove nine screws holding the air horn on, not overlooking those two oh-so-scary ones that are down in the primaries that you do not want to drop. Magnetized (long) needle nose pliers are what I use. Tap the air horn gently to get the gasket to let go. Then have something long and thin the reach up in between the carb body and the air horn to separate the gasket from the air horn as you slowly lift it off.
Theoretically the choke actuator arm is supposed to pass through the opening in the air horn but I find this does not always work and the choke rod ends up popping out of the hole in the actuating lever down in the carb. In fact, I have gotten to where I don't even bother trying to get the air horn off with taking it loose first myself. It can be infuriating but it can be put back in after the air horn has been replaced if you lay on top of the motor with good light to be able to see way down there and, using needle nose pliers to hold the rod, turn the rod to put it back in the hole.
Last edited by 70oldsW30; April 24th, 2008 at 01:38 PM.
#3
I suggest you remove the carburetor from the vehicle if you plan to make internal adjustments to the carburetor. You might want to ask some additional questions as well because it sounds like it might be an accelerator pump adjustment or secondary air valve adjustment that is causing your car to bog during acceleration.
#4
When you mix some flour in a frying pan of leftover grease from frying chicken or pork chops or some kind of meat and then add some milk or cream and let it boil, that is rue (roux). Add some more milk and you have gravy, don't add milk and you can use it for stock to make almost anything, soup, gumbo, etc. You could substitute water or cooking wine for the milk.
#6
ok, turned the carb in for another, this one doesnt look very promising. Its a way different model, it has two openings on the back of the carb, both have been plugged, and its poorly painted. Ill try it, if it doesnt work, ima turn it in get my money back, and probably go with a holley or whatever is cheapest because im out of money. What size carb would you guys recommend ? its a 350 with a 455 lift cam, and a performer RPM intake. thanks agian
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