Pulling the motor
#1401
So I'm trying to get my accessories on and everything was going swimmingly until I realized I hadn't bolted the power steering pump to the lower block. Once I did, the pulley was pulled out of alignment with the water pump pulley. What kinda' stinks is that when I was pulling this stuff off I thought I'd be putting them right back on (not 10 months later) so I wasn't great about organizing the bolts. I just had a container of "power steering pump" bolts, and one for alternator, etc. But Once I pulled them out I realized some looked rather sketchy. For instance one looks to be maybe a #10 machine screw, about two inches long, and with six washers on it. Uhh....not sure about that one.
Anyway, I have it bolted on as per the CSM but like I said, it's not lined up. Do I start throwing washers at it myself?
Anyway, I have it bolted on as per the CSM but like I said, it's not lined up. Do I start throwing washers at it myself?
Last edited by Macadoo; June 18th, 2014 at 08:34 PM.
#1404
#1405
I just pulled that bracket off the other day, there was a larger 5/8" bolt on the side under the exhaust manifold that had a spacer against the block, (spacer - bracket - washer - lockwasher - bolt) I think. I just recall it was larger than all the others on the front.
Maybe thats helpful?
Tim
Maybe thats helpful?
Tim
#1406
I just pulled that bracket off the other day, there was a larger 5/8" bolt on the side under the exhaust manifold that had a spacer against the block, (spacer - bracket - washer - lockwasher - bolt) I think. I just recall it was larger than all the others on the front.
Maybe thats helpful?
Tim
Maybe thats helpful?
Tim
#1407
#1408
#1410
But thanks Eric.
Last edited by Macadoo; June 18th, 2014 at 05:12 PM.
#1411
The spacers did the trick. It took a little finesse and some fabrication but I've got it all lined up. It's getting there. Another day under the [not installed yet] hood and I'll be ready to tackle the exhaust. At least I think.
Oh, and before I installed and tightened the power steering belt, I filled it to the "cold" line and spun the pump for a minute or so. But the level didn't drop. I thought it might help get fluid into the empty lines but it didn't appear to.
[IMG][/IMG]
Oh, and before I installed and tightened the power steering belt, I filled it to the "cold" line and spun the pump for a minute or so. But the level didn't drop. I thought it might help get fluid into the empty lines but it didn't appear to.
[IMG][/IMG]
Last edited by Macadoo; June 18th, 2014 at 07:42 PM.
#1413
Thanks Eric. I'm anxious to see the results. Hey a question; the double throttle return spring setup is rubbing on the EGR port. Do I need the larger spring or would the accelerator be too soft without it?
#1414
You can use pretty much any combination of springs, so long as it gives you the feel you want and closes the throttle.
The dual spring setups are a newfangled setup that will still close your throttle in case one breaks.
Your car came with a single spring originally.
- Eric
The dual spring setups are a newfangled setup that will still close your throttle in case one breaks.
Your car came with a single spring originally.
- Eric
#1415
You can use pretty much any combination of springs, so long as it gives you the feel you want and closes the throttle.
The dual spring setups are a newfangled setup that will still close your throttle in case one breaks.
Your car came with a single spring originally.
- Eric
The dual spring setups are a newfangled setup that will still close your throttle in case one breaks.
Your car came with a single spring originally.
- Eric
#1418
You can use pretty much any combination of springs, so long as it gives you the feel you want and closes the throttle.
The dual spring setups are a newfangled setup that will still close your throttle in case one breaks.
Your car came with a single spring originally.
- Eric
The dual spring setups are a newfangled setup that will still close your throttle in case one breaks.
Your car came with a single spring originally.
- Eric
Toyota?
#1419
Prefer to avoid them, myself.
At least if the Olds throttle sticks open, I can shift into neutral and kill the engine.
I hear those Toyotas lock the doors and disable the door locks, seatbelt releases, gear selectors, and ignition switches, then run a soundtrack of maniacal laughter through the entertainment systems as you drive into a ditch.
- Eric
At least if the Olds throttle sticks open, I can shift into neutral and kill the engine.
I hear those Toyotas lock the doors and disable the door locks, seatbelt releases, gear selectors, and ignition switches, then run a soundtrack of maniacal laughter through the entertainment systems as you drive into a ditch.
- Eric
#1423
#1426
Update time:
I have the engine and bay finished, other than priming the engine one last time. I spent last night and today working on the bolt on exhaust, last of the list other than reinstalling the hood. Everything went really well until I had to deal with the muffler shop for my downpipes. Dude on the phone said "yeah, no problem, we bend 2-1/2" all the time. It'll take about half an hour." So I used some flex pipe stuff to mock up what I needed and headed to town. When i got there they were out of 2-1/2" pipe and lost the correct die. After three hours of waiting and calling other shops, they had them done. I brought them home and they fit great! Except for the fact that they spread the ends too much. After an hour and half with a ratchet and breaker bar I was down to the last joint but it just won't close. Like, at all. Obvioulsly I have to take them back and try again but for now can I cut a couple of kerfs perpendicular to the opening to help them close up? Or does anyone know a better way to crimp it up a little? Man, I'm this one joint away from firing this thing up for the first time!
I have the engine and bay finished, other than priming the engine one last time. I spent last night and today working on the bolt on exhaust, last of the list other than reinstalling the hood. Everything went really well until I had to deal with the muffler shop for my downpipes. Dude on the phone said "yeah, no problem, we bend 2-1/2" all the time. It'll take about half an hour." So I used some flex pipe stuff to mock up what I needed and headed to town. When i got there they were out of 2-1/2" pipe and lost the correct die. After three hours of waiting and calling other shops, they had them done. I brought them home and they fit great! Except for the fact that they spread the ends too much. After an hour and half with a ratchet and breaker bar I was down to the last joint but it just won't close. Like, at all. Obvioulsly I have to take them back and try again but for now can I cut a couple of kerfs perpendicular to the opening to help them close up? Or does anyone know a better way to crimp it up a little? Man, I'm this one joint away from firing this thing up for the first time!
#1428
Mdchanic robot chicken is hilarious lol. Mac try to sleeve the exhaust pipe with a pipe that will fill the void. Like if they went over 2.50 for the inside diameter expand it a bit more to accept a piece of pipe that will fit over the pipe you are trying to clamp it onto and into the pipe that's too big. I dunno if that makes sense but I did this with my old caprice when the pipes I got where weird sizes. Or go to autozone and buy a reducer and use that. use a reducer that will fit over the pipe that's too big and make sure it fits into the pipe you want it on. trimming is involved but its a 5 buck solution.
#1429
Mdchanic robot chicken is hilarious lol. Mac try to sleeve the exhaust pipe with a pipe that will fill the void. Like if they went over 2.50 for the inside diameter expand it a bit more to accept a piece of pipe that will fit over the pipe you are trying to clamp it onto and into the pipe that's too big. I dunno if that makes sense but I did this with my old caprice when the pipes I got where weird sizes. Or go to autozone and buy a reducer and use that. use a reducer that will fit over the pipe that's too big and make sure it fits into the pipe you want it on. trimming is involved but its a 5 buck solution.
#1430
Mac have the shop make up a small header pipe 12" long. flatten the pipe where it meets the header put the flange on it then mandrel bend the pipe to 80 deg, this will keep it up nice and snug without too much restriction. then your intermediate pipe will have a small bend up to compensate thru to your mufflers. Are you just having the issue with the driver side as I did ?
#1431
Mac have the shop make up a small header pipe 12" long. flatten the pipe where it meets the header put the flange on it then mandrel bend the pipe to 80 deg, this will keep it up nice and snug without too much restriction. then your intermediate pipe will have a small bend up to compensate thru to your mufflers. Are you just having the issue with the driver side as I did ?
Yeah, mostly the driver's side. The PS header doesn't shoot straight down like the other side.
[IMG][/IMG]
#1434
Lol, thanks Randy. I gotta' get this thing on the road or I'm gonna' pop a blood vessel!
[IMG][/IMG]
A collector is where all the header pipes come together, part of the header. If you mean the reducer, yeah. Header, then reducer with flange and gasket, down-pipe, front pipe, then H-pipe, muffler, rear pipe, tail pipe.
That reducer in the pic, next to the jack stand, came with the exhaust system. It's huge! The reducers that came with the headers are less than half as long. Those are what I used.
[IMG][/IMG]
That reducer in the pic, next to the jack stand, came with the exhaust system. It's huge! The reducers that came with the headers are less than half as long. Those are what I used.
#1435
Yes sorry I meant the reducer Mac. I would have the shop flatten the small pipe that you have coming off the reducer so that you can eliminate the reducer that came with the headers. You may also need to bend that little pipe up a little more as well. I hope I'm explaining it better this time.
#1436
Yeah man, I get what you're saying now. Makes sense. I think I'll use a soup can or something to get that other downpipe tight and just take the whole car in and let them work their magic.
#1437
Measure the id. Of the pipe that's too big and the od. Of the pipe that's too small. You can use a tail pipe expander to open up the smaller one or the bigger one. Using a piece of proper exhaust pipe for a sleeve will avoid the use of the expander which cost more lol.
#1438
Put-er-ther Mac!!!
Eric
#1440
All good advice, and I wouldn't have thought that about the perception Eric. Especially when the truth is after a resto like this, most of us are flat broke! When I was in there yesterday, all covered in grease and dirt and looking like an abandoned mutt, they were pretty sympathetic. When I called this morning and informed them the pipes were too long and too big, their tone was a little different.
z11, after it's on the hoist or before? I love you video BTW
z11, after it's on the hoist or before? I love you video BTW