Macadoo

Hmm, good idea. I hadn't thought of that. I'll have a look.

Macadoo

New washer pump, cleaned the tank and lines, and hooked it all up. Works great!

[IMG][/IMG]

I also raided the daughter's old Intrigue for the coolant recovery tank. That was a PIA to get out. But now I have a tank and it's an Olds tank

[IMG][/IMG]

oldstata

Looks good Mac, I would have tried to hide it in the fender kinda behind the battery, but that's me

RandyS

Hey, go easy, he's proud of that tank..........

coppercutlass

Very nice work mac. It looks amazing. You did a great job . Now drive it lol .

oldstata

Lol I said it looked good just gave my opinion of what I would have done. He has done amazing work and write up on his build.

RandyS

Agreed, it has been a fun thread to follow!

Macadoo

Lol, thanks guys. Justin, it's not permanently mounted quite yet.. Still playing with the location. But I want to be able to see the level and there are VERY few flat surfaces down in there. All opinions welcome, all the time. Especially from my mates
Copper, I want to! But the downpipes are still dragging the ground. Supposed to take it in tomorrow. It's a 20 mile drive so wish me luck. Got a couple of 17" wheels I can put on the front for a couple of days? hardy har har....

Macadoo

Hey fellas, I might have goofed up a little. I misread a post months ago and thought I could delete the vapor canister under the hood. This would be the canister that has an inlet from the fuel tank and an outlet to the carb (I think). Is this the venting system for the fuel tank? Right now I have the pipe from the tank capped (engine compartment) and the inlet on the carb capped. The fuel pump I replaced only had one inlet (for fuel) and one outlet (fuel to carb).
If this isn't the venting system, then where is it? My original photos are no good since the fuel system was jury-rigged when I bought the car and the canister wasn't hooked up.

oldcutlass

Is your tank building a vacuum or leaking?

Macadoo

Leaking? I don't think but I haven't had the chance to completely fill it yet. I'll check for vacuum when I get it back from the muffler shop.

oldcutlass

All you did was get rid of the charcoal canister and block the ports. The carb bowl should still be vented and the tank should have a vented gas cap. That's why I asked if you were having issues.

MDchanic

Actually, the tank should have a non-vented gas cap, and will not accept a vented cap, as the grooves or threads are designed to prevent switching caps.

That being said, the charcoal canister has nothing to do with venting.
It stores gasoline vapor in a location where it can be drawn back into the engine and burned later (IF the rest of the system is intact and working properly).

- Eric

MDchanic

20140706_144917.jpg

Not to be too much of a PIA, but the overflow tank should be mounted with its top roughly level with the top of the radiator (or of the cooling system in general). If it's too low, then once a flow gets going, it can siphon coolant OUT of your cooling system.

- Eric

oldcutlass

There are some available in the aftermarket, as Opgi sells a vented version:
http://www.opgi.com/cutlass/BR01997/

Macadoo

Buzz-kill

That DOES say 71-74. Interesting. Like I said, I'll have a look when I get it back. And I'll look into raising the recovery tank.

Macadoo

Got the car back from the muffler shop. All seems good. The pipes aren't as high as I wish they were but they did cut off the reducers as much as they could.
I pulled the gas cap when i got home and I did hear a slight hiss but I couldn't tell if the tank was pushing or pulling air. The cap is definitely not vented.
Also, I have power steering pump leak; specifically, it's where the high pressure hose attaches to the back of the pump. It looks like it's coming from between the fitting and the pipe. Would that be the hose or is there a rubber seal/washer in the pump side of the hook-up? I guess i should have looked before wrenching the line on.
Other than that, she's running great. I'm very happy
Thanks to all my Olds friends for helping me get this far with this project!

MDchanic

The P/S fitting is a 45° inverted-flare fitting, and has no gasket of any kind.

It probably just needs to be a bit tighter. And that may mean TIGHT.

If it still doesn't wan to seal, then you can try some of this:




Just clean it all up, put a tiny bit right on the flare (putting on the threads or the steel line won't hurt, but won't help either) and reassemble.

I've used it on a lot of flare fittings over the years. The toughest one was a diesel injector line that I just couldn't get to seal - worked like a charm.

- Eric

Macadoo

It's as tight as I can get it. And the shop tightened it as well. So I'm going right for the thread sealer. Thanks Eric.

mrolds69

There is/was a factory overflow tank for Cutlass. They are very pricey, I think TPP has them. It's a thought for Christmas........

76olds

[QUOTE=Macadoo;720076]Got the car back from the muffler shop. All seems good. The pipes aren't as high as I wish they were but they did cut off the reducers as much as they could.

I'm surprised the muffler shop cut or even used the reducers, If your not happy with it Mac you should ask them to take them out and fabricate a pipe just using the flange supplied. It would bring the system up tighter. I leave my car up north at our trailer thru the week however I will be bringing it home this Sunday. I will try to get a pic of my exhaust if you like and post it here so you can see what I had done.
Happy to hear its running great and your starting to enjoy it .
Eric

oldcutlass

Thread sealer on a flare fitting won't seal the leak as it will still leak in between the fitting and tubing. Take it apart, make sure the flare is clean and not damaged, and reassemble. You may be due for it to be reflared or for a new hose if it had been severely over tightened.

Macadoo

Meh, I'm okay with this one for now. I can think of other things I want for Christmas

[QUOTE=76olds;720355]I asked them if they could do anything to make it higher than using the reducers. They thought it would be okay. And so far it has been. I even tested some large speed bumps and railroad tracks and it was fine. Good enough for now (gefn).
But I would like to see your pics.

I think Eric was saying it might help to put thread sealer on the flare so yeah, it's coming apart. I'll have a look at the flares. I"m cool with a new hose as long as it's the hose and not the pump.
I watched those repros someone was selling on here for months but that was at the start of my build and I missed out.

knuckles66

Hedman headers, attached to Flowmaster system.

MDchanic

Say what you want, I was turned on to this stuff almost 30 years ago when putting together a 911 engine, which has a number of flared oil line fittings, and have been using it ever since.

The tiniest bit on the flare surface itself can make a stubborn fitting seal, and even on non-stubborn fittings, it makes them seal with less torque.
Putting a bit on the threads assures easy disassembly, even years later.

I use this stuff on all gasoline, kerosene, diesel, and water flared fittings I put together (I've never tried it on brake lines, because it doesn't say that it's brake fluid-proof). A few times when I've forgotten to use it, and had leaks, a tiny bit fixed them right up.

It has never failed in use for me, even after decades.

- Eric

Macadoo

Wow, those are tucked up in there nice and tight. Very nice. I, however, have Hedman shorty headers that terminate at a lower point and still need the turns before entering the exhaust. But I think I'm in a good place with them now. I've had some pretty bouncy surprises in the road with the wife in the car with no scrapes.

Professur

I think MD meant he's putting it on the flare bell itself, not just on the threads. That would serve as a gasket to take up any imperfection in the flare ... at least for low pressure applications. I wouldn't want to trust it for high pressure myself ... but if it works, it works. The alternative is replacing parts, so there's no harm in trying. Just don't let any of it get into the system.

MDchanic

Diesel injectors, baby!

I has one on my truck (6.2 mechanically injected) that kept spraying out, even with a really good strong pull, put a little dab of that stuff on: no leaks.
And that was five years ago, and it hasn't leaked since.

Those are what, 1,200 psi or something?

- Eric

Leadfoot

I also took MD's suggestion to mean that he uses the sealer on the flare (or swage), not necessarily on the threads. But Oldcutlass is right on. While flared and swaged fittings are designed to remain sealed under higher pressures, the slightest damage, grit, dirt, crack, or deformation of either mating surface can allow the fitting to leak. These old-style flared fittings aren't designed for frequent disassembly/reassembly, and even AN flared fittings will fail eventually if frequently taken apart. Overtightening is often the biggest culprit for damaging compression-type fittings. Depending upon the fitting design, it can also deform the flare enough that you run out of threads on the fitting before the seal is made.

With all of that said, I would follow oldcutlass and MD's advice. Take the connection apart, make sure BOTH mating surfaces are clean and undamaged. Polish them if necessary to ensure a good mating seal (this will also make any important damage very obvious). If there is serious damage, replacement is probably necessary. Otherwise, put just a thin smear of sealer on the flare and reassemble. Do not overtighten the fitting (this is easier said than done). FWIW, I usually just snug up the fitting and run the system, tightening the fitting just until there are no leaks. Then leave it alone.

Macadoo

Sounds like a reasonable procedure. Thanks.

MDchanic

To re-re-clarify (), if you have trouble sealing, a tiny little smear of that thread sealer placed right on the flared surface that seals with the other fitting is all you need - note that since these two surfaces are supposed to mate and compress against each other perfectly, the amount of sealer that actually remains to do its job between them will be close to molecular thickness, so you really don't need much.

- Eric

Macadoo

A fairly major pothole in my road to happiness. The transmission is toast. It won't shift into 2nd gear. Or more accurately, it shifts into 2nd (I think) but just spins. I don't think it's stuck in 1st because if I let off the gas it doesn't pull the car down/quickly decelerate (not sure how else to say that). And if I shift it down into 1st manually (while spinning in 2nd) I definitely feel the downshift.
If I let it warm all the way up, like idle for 30 minutes, it runs and shifts very smoothly. I'm sure I installed the TC correctly. Pushed it back and spun it until it clicked in...twice. And it sounded like it was rubbing on the back wall until I pulled it forward (what was it, half an inch?) and bolted it to the flex plate.
I was hoping for a fix in a can to get me through the last few weeks of summer but I tried trans-x with no luck. And when I sucked out the necessary fluid to make room, it was dark brown (new fluid). I may try puling more fluid out and adding Lucas just for kicks but if that doesn't work I'll be parking her until next summer.
Soooo.......how does one go about acquiring and installing a 700R4? Will any GM work or does it need to be Olds/Buick/Pontiac A-body? Buy a fresh rebuild or just used?

MDchanic

That does sound like a bad transmission.

Just a thought: If you really want to drive this thing (and why would you ever want to do that???), why not just pick up a used TH350 cheap, maybe from a nearby member who's got a few out behind the shed, throw it in (unpleasant, but not too hard - I've done it alone, without a transmission jack, myself), and drive the car, then start planning for the 700R4 upgrade?

I'm not sure what generic used TH350s are going for these days, but the last one I bought at retail from a junkyard was $75. You can probably get one for a hundred or so from the right person.

- Eric

Macadoo

Craiglist:

"I have a th350 that came out of 75 olds has a fresh rebuild on it less than 100 miles decided to go with a th400 instead so I'm selling it shifts great and looks awesome wanting 300 obo ask for pictures"

Sounds like a steal...but sketchy. Would this be a straight bolt-on? Would any GM TH350 be a straight bolt-on?

olds 307 and 403

That blows, sorry for your luck. Don't get a 700R4, they are nothing special. I just toasted 3rd gear in our work trucks 4L70E. That was supposed to be the improved electronic shift version of the 700R4. It is so great, GM has a discount price on the replacement due to many failures on certain years. I had the 4L60E fail in my Olds powered 4x4, weak reverse, which is very common. It was a GM reman, so not even original. I picked up a nearly fresh re built trans fo $500, has been great. I would go 2004R for your Cutlass, much easier swap. I have gone through two 2004R's though. First one died due to a imploding converter. The second lost reverse and OD, I think my servo was set too tight and was an unknown junkyard trans with a shift kit. I just picked up a used with upgraded friction 2004R for $300. It shifts OK but I had issues with TV cable not giving full pull. I corrected it or it would have failed. A deep aluminum pan with 700R4 or 4L60E filter is a really good idea. I do flog my car at the track with slicks, which is very hard on it. You need to have your drive shaft cut and live with the 1-2 gear drop on the 700R4 trans. Good part of the 700R4 is every trans shop builds them.

oldstata

You would need a bop trans Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac
I think on a th350 it has the same drive line. On a th400 drive line would need to be shorter and the yoke would need to be changed with the trans mount (frame ) would need to be moved back not sure with 200r4 or 700r4


Edit: They do have adaptor plates to us on Chevy trans but why go thru the trouble

Macadoo

Thanks for the heads-up. Seems to be some debate about which is better. But I think for now I'll look for a TH350.

RandyS

Wow, after all the hard work on the motor and body............. bummer!
Hopefully you can find a good one cheaply nearby.

MDchanic

I wouldn't pay $300 for a transmission that anybody had messed with, unless I knew the guy really well.
A working trans from a junked car is a MUCH better bet than something that someone has "improved."

I'd put up a Parts Wanted ad here - I bet someone around Chicago's got one (or several).

- Eric

Macadoo

The hunt is on!

Yeah, it sounded kinda sketchy. And it's too far away anyway. I'll call around on Monday, there's a salvage yard I usually deal with and he's a straight shooter. If I don't have any luck I'll post here.
Copper? You there?