Yeah, I tried a piece of black pipe but caved in the seal as it was just hitting on the inner metal ring. The pvc was a little bouncy but did the trick. Black pipe and a floor flange would have been better.
Speaking of the trans, did I see a post a while back where you said there is an O=ring inside the speedo cable housing? I just posted this question in the trans forum.

 

I only studied on the 200C and 200-4r. The heavy weights are on my summer reading list.

 

That's some heavy reading Prof

 

Well the engine drop-in isn't going to happen this weekend. I got bogged down in tranny leaks. Finally located the speedo cable seal and got that installed. Then wrestled for a day and a half with the downshift cable linkage in the trans (it was leaking bad). Turned out the cable was frozen or kinked somewhere but it wasn't going to budge so I clipped it about 10 inches from the trans. The linkage just fell out after that. Sooo....I guess I'm buying and installing a new downshift cable. Is this something I can buy used? New ones are about $75 + shipping.
Also, I went ahead and dropped the trans pan and drained the oil. I forgot to get a pic but the pan was extremely clean. No shavings of any size with just a thin smear of dark gray at the bottom.

Anyone know what the original pan gaskets were made of?

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And speaking of the pan gasket; what is the current thinking? Cork? Rubber? RTV only? The Napa fella advised RTV olnly.

This is the rubber one I bought 8 months ago when I thought I was going to give the car a good tune-up

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Original trans gasket is CORK. They seal very well, just as that rubber one you have pictured will. Put it on DRY, no sealers of any kind. Lightly snug the pan bots and then torque bolts to 8 ft/lbs.
I don't like the RTV idea. While it may work it's a PIA to clean up if you ever have to drop the pan again.

 

Compared to the 2000 page computer manuals that usually occupy that list, the ATSGs are light bedtime reading. And at a mere $30 a pop with digital delivery, they're by far the cheaper. Book cost for me is a major budget item. Some years back I had to replace the contracted user support for a large office downtown while the usual guy was on vacation .. but the phone support team was instructed to only send me must do, hands on cases and leave anything that could wait for the other guy to come back. I think I got 3 calls in two weeks. I read their entire support library in the first week. The second week nearly broke me. The magazine stand in the building lobby was very sad to see me go.

 

FWIW I also do a beat of silicone on the dip stick right under neath the little ridge that stops it from bottoming out . I have had them leak in the past and finding an o ring that actually works for some reason was always hard to find.

 

Thanks for the tip, Copper. I may just do that. I found this downshift cable at Advance. It's a crummy picture but I think it's the right one. And it was only $18, a nice surprise.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...4210/3925188-P

 

[chuckle]
Hopefully they weren't all Good Housekeeping and Redbook.

 

Every computer magazine, then all the fire arms (a copy of Guns and Ammo on your desk really makes your co-workers polite), and was working my way through a diy learning electronics thingy. You know the ones where every week they have another issue and a few more parts? He had the entire lot (missing maybe half a dozen issues) lying on a box that never sold. Made a neat little electronic test bed.

 

That cable will work. Make sure you adjust it properly to engage your passing gear.

 

Whew, that's a relief. I found the adjustment procedure in the CSM. It doesn't sound difficult.

 

Question; can I tee one of my manifold vacuum sources? Seems I have four needs (Distributor, trans modulator, AC reservoir, brake booster) but only three manifold vac ports (unless I'm not seeing one). I replaced the stock manny with the Edel 3711.

 

Sure. Just make sure the one to the booster is big enough.

Also, don't forget PCV.

- Eric

 

You also have ports at the base of the carb.

 

Yup, got it. That one goes to the carb though. I actually have to cut the pcv in order to fit. It has a hose fitting on both ends for some reason (universal fit?) and it's hitting the inside baffle of the valve cover.

But doesn't everything I listed need to be direct manifold? I understand there is some debate about the vacuum advance but I'd like to have the choice if needed.

Won't a tee divide the amount of vacuum pulled? Or am I over-thinking?

 

You've got a gaping hole at the top of the carb letting air in ... no, a tee won't seriously reduce the amount of vac you're getting. Remember, all those vac lines pull on diaphragms, they're not vented to air. Also, where you take it from is a matter of reaction, not power.

 

Well that simplifies things (not sarcasm). Thanks Prof.

 

Why not just spend a buck and a half and buy the right PCV?



Waaaaaaaay overthinking (or under thinking, as you have not properly applied the Universal Gas Laws ).

Basically, you have the same pressure throughout the entire manifold system, including all hoses and connected diaphragms, though, due to the compressibility of gasses, changes may take a fraction of a second to get to the outer reaches.
As the Prof. noted, the hoses do not provide for flow of gasses (except at the moment heater setting are changed, or when you release the brake pedal, or when the PCV is open), so their division will not affect their function.

- Eric

 

Oh, the UGL, right right.....
What, do you guys have degrees in physics or something? Although my daughter does and she doesn't know this stuff.
Thanks for the info fellas.

 

I majored in Chem/Physics until they invented PCs. And I read. A lot.

 

just say a little prayer before you go into gear...that little layer of gooey grey clutch material and other stuff keeps the transmission held together i know it sounds crazy but in the past i have had transmissions fail after doing a cleaning of the pan...i dont know what it is but something about that grey matter that the tranny likes

 

Yep. More than one person has had a fluid flush done and discovered that the suspended grit in the fluid was all that was keeping his car moving. You generally hear it from Ford Crown Vic owners. I know one shop that won't do a flush if you can't prove you've done them regularly. But a light grey smear is normal. You're always going to see some fines when you drop the pan. Beach sand .. not so much. But realistically .... if it slips after a flush, it wasn't long for this world anyhow. Take solace that it didn't end it's time on this world in the middle of the interstate.

 

I'll point out that you have the same AVERAGE pressure thoughout the manifolds system. Pulses and reversion from valve openings and closings make this a very dynamic environment. It's exactly these pulses that Chrysler tried to take advantage of with their long-ram 413 motor.



To quote the Beach Boys:

 

Joe, I think the Cross Ram engines were some of the coolest setups when looking under a hood. The Hemi version was pretty cool also just not as impressive to look at.

 

Those are pretty slick!
And yes, I'm aware of "new fluid shock". I'm hoping it isn't an issue but it looks like the trans was well maintained. From what I've pieced together, this car was very well maintained until the PO's husband died. Then it must have been a son-in-law or something. Which would account for the tin can radiator hose fix when I bought her.

 

The motor's back in. Just about anything that could have gone wrong, did. Finally grabbed my one and only neighbor and between the three of us we gotter' done. I'll make a full report tomorrow but for now...well...let's just say the neighbor's wife REALLY likes screwdrivers (the vodka kind) and I hadn't eaten since 6 AM (and this was about 6 PM) so I think I'm in for the night.
Oh, and my camera phone didn't want to work today either so forgive the crappy pic.
'Night all..........

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Well done!

 

I wouldn't go that far

 

Great. Waiting to see how it runs!

- Eric

 

Mac...it looks like you put it in backwards

 

But I did it the same way as the last guy......lol.

 

Looks great Mac.. you'll be cruzin soon.

 

Our biggest issue with the install was getting the bellhousing lined up and against the motor while getting the motor mounts lined up. We actually ended up taking the mounts off the engine and bolting them to the cross member first. Then everything else slid into place pretty easily. The Hedman shorty headers are a tight squeeze for sure and there was a lot more twisting, pushing, and pulling of that engine to get it in than I imagined.

So....some before and afters.....

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

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Tomorrow I get to investigate why my new master cylinder is leaking. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the cap's rubber gasket. Is that common on a new unit?

 

My shorties are tight as well, The drivers side pipe bend was really tight, had to bolt up a cone to the header and weld the pipe going back to the muffler flush. couldn't swag it out it was such a tight bend . I hope you have more room for a nice bend coming off your driver side. I would have gone with the long tube had I known..But its all in and good for now.
Eric

 

Very nice. Glad to see its coming along.

 

I haven't had a good look yet but will try to get to that this week. I'm hoping for the extra room as well.

Thanks Copper, that means a lot coming from you. How's the frame coming?

 

Make sure you double check make sure your compression stroke is to the correct cylinder...your dist hold down loose enough to turn by hand but not to loose and your carb float bowl filled with gas and hopefully yo will have an easy start

 

Thanks Pogo, the reminders are appreciated. Like I wish someone would have said "remember to put the oil filter on before you prime the engine"

 

frame was done in 2 days lol. Go over and check the thread "re vamping the old girl " in the build projects section. Im chugging along.


Don't wanna flood your thread with pics but here is the link.


https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ld-girl-3.html