That's not a resistor, it's a radio interference capacitor.

Nice job.

If the radio growls when the fan is on, you'll need a new one.

- Eric

 

Lol, I don't know about "The King" but I'm certainly a loyal servant

 

What?! Well how the heck do I test that? No matter, I have the wheel well in now.

These things weren't hard to get in but almost impossible to get the bolt holes lined up. Resorted to opening one up just a wee bit with the Dremel. I had all the others but that one wouldn't cooperate.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

You don't.

If the fan makes noise on the radio, you get another one and connect it at the high speed relay terminal up top.

Technically, you could prove that it's not shorted by checking continuity with a VOM (should be ∞ Ω), or use a capacitance meter to test its capacitance, but if it works, it works, and if it doesn't it doesn't.


Looking good!

- Eric

 

Yeah, once I had it all installed I figured I could access that wiring from above, as you just said. I'm impressed that you know how to make the ohm symbol on a forum

 

Hood hinges!

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I'm more of a Л man myself

 

Hey listen mister Macadoo, I'm getting really upset with the way your car is looking under that hood!!! I am very depressed now looking under my hood sir!!
Everytime I get out to work on mine, my wife says I'm not spending ANUFF time with her!!!
Can you please stop now!!!
Put-r-ther I love it!!!!
Eric

 

Mmmmmmmm... Л

 

Newlyweds

 

Okay, so I bought this O-ring kit for the AC even though most of the new components came with new O-rings (rookie mistake) but what's the little tube? Do I need to grease up the rings before I use them?

[IMG][/IMG]

 

I have no idea what's in that tube, Mac, if it's not labeled.

I'd recommend getting a tube of Nylog. They make different types for different lubricants / refrigerants.

- Eric

 

Yeah, no label. I suppose I need oil specific for the refrigerant. I'll look into it.

 

Rear brakes look much better than the fronts. Maybe 3/16" shoe thickness left (at its thinnest point). I might go ahead and rebuild anyway since I have the shoes and springs.
Then again.......

 

It's a good thing I decided to go ahead with the rear brake rebuild. I had a wheel cylinder leaking. Of course it was the last brake. Why's it always the last of something that's the most difficult? Luckily my local NAPA had one in stock, $6. And the old one came right out, no fighting.
Somehow, though, I got the center bar disengaged and didn't notice until I had all the springs on. But the second time was the charm

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[IMG][/IMG]

 

Aww crud. Look at those pics. I've got the short shoe in back
I guess THIRD time's a charm......

 

Goes to show the value of keeping that digital camera handy. I know more than once I've had to double check my picks when I couldn't specifically remember which way I'd assembled something and it wasn't letting me rest.

 

Awesome, the pitfalls to avoid! Picking up my new master and wheel cylinders tonight for the first wrench turning on my '71.

Really appreciating this thread...informative and you're setting the bar, Mac!

 

I remember having a Polaroid handy in the old days. Instant images are so much easier now. Of course I also remember renting a VHS movie......AND the VCR, lol!

Thanks Cutty. I don't know about setting the bar...but if you need it put on backwards, I'm your man

 

I hope your old cylinders come off as easy as mine did. It was a bit of a shock, really.

 

Your brake adjuster and lower spring are in backwards.

 

And those rear control arms are looking pretty funky compared to the shiny front ones....... MAW clean them up and paint 'em too...........
Just messin with ya, lookin good!!

 

The star adjuster is towards the front, which is the way it was when I took it off. Same with the spring. I have pics of pre-disassembly. Were they installed wrong the last brake job?

 

Lol, I was looking at those too. And the frame. I think i'll worry about the brakes for right now.

 

Front of car is toward the right of the picture...

[IMG][/IMG]

 

The teeth on the adjuster wheel should be under the auto adjuster plate. Your's do look to be installed backward.

 

Totally backwards.

The last guy did it wrong.

That horizontal surface of the adjuster arm has to be able to come down and turn the wheel.

- Eric

 

Same here, thanks! I'm used to working on rusted VWs that don't like cooperating. My Cutlass has been in dry storage since at least 2004 so I'm hoping it's in better shape.

I've printed out your photos and will hold them up to the mirror before using them as reference...

 

Which would be why the brakes didn't work I guess. Looks like I'll be redoing all four wheels. Man, I hate cleaning up someone else's shoddy work

Well then I have two more questions; the kits came with two different lengths of "nails", the posts that hold the compressed springs/caps on. Is the longer one meant for the spring that holds the adjuster plate? And the forked plate with a spring on one side that's about in the middle of the mechanism, spring towards the front or rear of the car?

 

Found my diagram, that thing is called the "strut" and I know which direction the spring goes now. But I'm still wondering about the "pin" lengths.

 

The longer pins go with the wider drums, presumably the fronts.

- Eric

 

Makes sense. Thanks Eric. I appreciate it.

 

I think I might follow these photos instead...https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-tutorial.html

Not sure if that link's too late to be of any help to you now though

 

Yeah, I should have trusted the tute instead of how my brakes were already put together. Be aware though, I believe he had the strut backward. According to the CSM diagram, the spring goes toward the front of the car. Or at least it's opposite the self adjuster return spring.

 

Actually both front and rear spring kits came with both short and long pins.

 

In that case, the long one goes through the shoe with the adjuster lever, because it makes the assembly a little bit thicker.

- Eric

 

That's what I ended up doing. Visually, that spring isn't as compressed as the other but I don't know if that matters.

 

Re-did my rears in about a half hour. Guess I'm getting familiar with the process.
Cutty, thought maybe you could use these:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Definitely, thanks! Those diagrams look like keepers.

Haven't dug into mine yet, have to install a trailer hitch on the van first, and sitting on the fence about picking up a '72 Supreme for some parts. Need to make room!

 

A parts car would be sweet. But like you said, if you have the room.