Mac next time you need body supplies message me or check out autobodytoolmart.com . 30 bucks for that tube is wayyyyy out of line. 30 bucks are what the twin cartrige eurethane cost roughly and those are tops in quality considering is 2 part component so it dries fast and is self leveling.

 

Thanks Randy, I was just going to use electrical tape (my newbie-ness is showing). Just search for wiring harness tape? I'm also going to use as much wire conduit as I can get away with.

NUH UH! Lol, okay, maybe some day.
We do have a nice little place. In the middle of nowhere but I can be at school in 15 minutes (couple of blacktops and the interstate). It used to be a one-room schoolhouse (appropriate enough for a prof) and one of our secretaries found it on an 1835 map of schoolhouses. I love it out here, it only sucks on Halloween.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Argh, I shoulda' thought of asking first. I was just going by Rob's thread. But good to know for the future. So Mr. bodyman, wanna' give me a quick tutorial and making a patch panel for those rust spots behind the rear tire? If I took a mold of the area I could cast a plaster form but I don't know if that wold be strong enough to hammer on.

 

If you buy harness tape, try and buy the 1 1/4" wide. It costs more, TPP has it. It goes faster, it's like original, it makes it easier to cover "branches". Proper technique to start and finish can be found on the net.

 

Its hard to explain. But essentially make a poster board template of the area to fit the contour then trace it flat. Go back and mark on the paper where the contours are, then grab something like a 50 lb bag of sand and after you mark on the metal where your contours are you either hammer it to shape or fold or bend etc etc. Sky is the limit when it comes to body work . Its really hard to explain easier to show lol. Using a mold is more for like stamping and its really hard to do with a hammer. Its much easier to mark your lines and contours and shape with hammers , pliers , rollers etc. etc.. pretty much by hand.

 

Sorry if I take up some space here but. here is a patch I made when I fixed my car the first time around. I shaped it with nothing more than a hammer and dolly and random stuff. The out come was great. I didn't get a picture of it with seam sealer after paint but you couldn't really tell a difference. I panel bonded it in vs. welding.







Here is my metal piece.





glued in








Don't judge me too hard I was 17 when I did this. its still holding up but I would have approached it a little differently if I was doing it today.

 

Thanks for the tip mrolds. I'll have a look.

Yeah well when I was 17 I was too busy skipping school and chasing girls to learn anything like this. So yes, I'm impressed. Thanks for the short write up Copper. I'm sure it's more difficult than you make it look but I'll have a go at it, maybe this summer. I'm assuming you mostly weld these days? What gauge metal do you use?

 

The panel bond is not bad actually. I weld mostly for productivity now and I have a welder lol . I used I think like 20 gauge steel.

 

Metal work isn't bad, more you work with it the easier it becomes copper isn't most repairs made with metal bond these days lol. I repaired my whole quarter panel from shaping over the old and using fusor bond to install once we cut out the old
I believe the fusor 800 ? Seam sealer is around 25 bucks that we use at my work

 

Big panels I weld in. Small non structural stuff kinda outta sight I bond in. I still don't fully trust the panel bonds. But I usually use the 3m stuff.

 

Mac here is a thread with a few pointers I did

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71562

 

As far as I know, the areas to be repaired are very small, maybe 4x3 inches. Unless it goes deeper than I can see. I originally thought about filling the holes with clay, shaping the clay to match the contours, taking a mold of the area, and casting resin in the mold; essentially making a plastic patch panel. However, I sorta' talked my school into buying me a MIG welder. Every year we get a little money to use for "professional development". Most faculty use it to fly to N.Y. or L.A. for some conference where they get to party every night. I told them as a sculpture teacher I needed to learn to weld. So I'm getting the welder, a helmet, a cart, a can of argon/co2, some extra wire, and some butt joint clamps. I went with an Eastwood:
http://www.eastwood.com/mig135-welder-and-cart-kit.html
So I know what I'm learning this summer
Thanks for the link Justin. Looks like an awesome thread full of useful information.

 

Use metal to fix metal lol. I'm not a fan of the butt joint clamp I usally use magnets because you can only use those clamps on open panels.

 

I have that exact welder, and I love it.

 

Yeah, I kind of realized that after I ordered them. Magnets, now that's something I wouldn't have thought of. Thanks dude. I get the "integrity of materials" thing and I know there could be expansion coefficient issues but it just seems like if an area is going to be rust prone and isn't going to compromise structural integrity, why not go with something that won't rust? I dunno', just thinking out loud.

Good to know Randy. I was worried it was too small. Is yours 115v and do you run it on a regular 20 amp circuit?

 

It's time to start seriously looking at exhaust systems, especially since I'll have the capability (after some practice) to weld up my own. I'll have to review what was debated in this thread some time ago.

 

Yes, and it has plenty of power to weld up to 1/4" steel with no problem. I really like the 115v part, makes it a lot more portable than 220v welders.

 

Take a look at the Pypes exchaust systems at Summit. I got a really good deal on a Stainless 2 1/2" system recently. Welded it up with the Eastwood. I didn't know you could weld stainless with a regular Mig welder..........

 

Get the kit with the x pipe . Well worth it boost hp and sounds very unique on an olds.

 

I've been looking at systems all day, well...between working on the Olds. So overwhelming but I think I'm getting a handle on it. Thanks for tips, fellas. Copper, I know you like the X pipe but I'm still leaning towards the H. Does anyone offer a 2" or 2-1/4" stainless system?

 

Why not the x pipe ? Just curious.

 

X pipe sounds like eurotrash. Just my 2 cents.

 

Not under my olds lol. Its sounds pretty raw kinda like the ls1's with an x pipe but with an olds tone.

 

Since your are undoubtedly going to get the MAW's for more HP, why not go with a 2 1/2" system?

 

here is what it sounds like with an x pipe and mufflers no tail pipes. This was a really mild set up.




here is a euro v8
Not that it matters but its a very different sound.

 

I read that an H-pipe will yield more low end power and that an X-pipe is more high end. I don't know, it's just what I read. Same with pipe diameter. And since I have to stick with my 2.56 gears for a while I'm looking for as much oomph as I can get.
If you fellas think 2.5" is the way to go, then it's the way to go. They're certainly easier to find in stainless.

 

To be honest . I gained more with an x pipe. The olds engine needs all the help it can get in the exhaust dept. and the x pipe pulls exhaust out as it crosses exhaust pulses. Or so that's what I gathered from research in years past. I would go 2.5 exhaust it will carry on for more hp. down the road I really doubt you will feel the difference. Your biggest pep factor dollar for dollar is swapping gear sets. The 2.25 I feel is restrictive. that same engine that was in the smokey burn out vid is now in my dads car. I de tuned it for his set up and going to manifolds and more restrictive exhaust sucked the life out of it. That was my experience. The 2.56 gears are your least performing factor. I wouldn't buy a restrictive exhaust to help aid the 2.56 I would think future here. I spent so much time to get my dads car running right with the lousy 2.41 gears and it ran pretty good. Now that we went to 3.08 I have to re tune the carb , the timing curve and timing because now the engine can actually rev instead of coughing to life lol.

 

Well I do a lot of interstate so when I do go with shorter gears I'll have to get a four speed trans. Sounds great but that's down the road.
Hey Copper, or anyone, I'm confused about brake shoes. Are the front and rear different sizes? 9" X 2" or 2.5"? The CSM doesn't specify. I'm looking at the Wagner shoes from Advance since the wife gave me a gift card for my birthday, lol.

 

Mac there is a web site that has the performance factors including decibels on most major performance exhaust with the estimated horsepower your pushing. They say bigger isn't better
. I think I posted something in your thread back some. Measure your drums and order the shoes to your drum size.

 

Rock Auto is your friend. Yes, 2 1/2" Front, 2" Rear.

 

Lol, yeah. That's where I'd rather order them and they're cheaper. But like I said, I have a gift card to spend. I'll be getting the drums from Rock. They're too worn to be turned
One more brake question; are the spring kits the same front and back?

 

Ha, found it. Different kits for front and rear. Thanks guys!

 

Mac, I'm going with the 2" stainless from the headers with H pipe... to the mufflers swaging the 2" up to 2 1/4 to fit muffler them swaging the exit from muffler to 2 1/2 thru thr back mandrel bent. This is going to leave me more low end torque. That's just me thou and I don't drive the car over 70mph so major flow and hp is not in my future. Just my .05 cents lol. I having an exhaust place do this so if your doing it yourself then you may be limited .

 

Yeah Eric, I'm doing it myself. Both to save money and I'm not sure how to get the car to the shop with open headers, lol.

 

Like I mentioned even with my 350 which was really mild we de tuned it put manifolds on it we went with 2.25 in. Exhaust and it feels like I needs a bigger exhaust along with headers lol the fact the carb is now running rich (slightly less rich now after re tuning the carb) tells you how choked back the engine is and that's restriction. Headers will lean an engine out ., lean is mean to an extent that's why when you go to headers you may have to re tune and vise versa . If its stock that's fine but I don't think too many guys run a 2 in. Exhaust for a reason . I don't think you will loose to much by going to the 2.5 exhaust. The engine is an air pump the faster you can get air in and out the more efficient it will be. Changing a cam adding headers improve all that so restricting it is actually making it less efficient. The 2.25 is perfect for your set up but down the road you want to bump it up you gotta buy a whole new set up. The 2.5 will atleast serve later down theline.

 

here is a link . with a chart from magna flow.


http://www.magnaflow.com/07techtips/faq/question10.asp

 

Holy jumpin' , Exhaust is the nastiest job other than brake lines lol. I wish you luck.

 

Good to know....? Lol, I'm already in way over my head. What's one more thing?

 

If the underside of your car is fairly clean, working on the exhaust is not too bad. Tearing out the old crap can be a PITA due to rusted bolts, etc., but once you get that out of the way, installing the new is not too bad. Way easier on a lift, but it can be done on jack stands (how I had to do mine). Also easier with a helper (learned that one the hard way )

 

A sawz all can get the old out of the way pretty quick, I would think that getting a decent bent pipe to come off the headers back to mufflers will be the biggest PITA. Heat n tweak sucks off of jack stands with a long Johnson bar. I guess I'm just getting too old lol.