Copper, not bustin yer *****. It's just my opinion.
To get exhaust off. Sawzall or blue wrench. Takes 5 minutes.

 

The exhaust is mostly off already, just the tailpipe left. I have shorty headers so I'm going to need a downpipe(?). Can a muffler shop bend that for me in stainless?

 

Z11 I known what you mean. I actually like that euro v8 sound not for my car but maybe an old brit car or even a renault with a moder euro v8 swap would be pretty cool for a corner carving ride. I was just showing the diffrence.

 

Stainless needs to be mandrel bent. You will need to look for one that has the equipment.

 

Good to know. Thanks Randy, I'll start looking.

 

You may want to go with aluminized Mac, stainless is a bugger to heat n tweak, Especially trying to get it rite off the headers. Not many shops can bend stainless.

 

I've been wondering about that, and welding it may be a pain too. How do folks here keep their exhausts from rusting?

 

They just rust.

- Eric

 

My car doesn't see bad weather. That helps. I don't know if you are going to dd yours. If so, it will rust.

 

You would have to tig stainless rather than mig , Aluminized would rust but if you are doing it yourself that's the best pipe to go with easier to work with in my opinion. Then you could braze it rather than mig weld it for easier replacement of pipes as they go. Maybe others will have a better idea.

 

I painted my exhaust flat black with header paint. That's one way.

 

You actually can MIG stainless exhaust pipes. The instructions that come with the PYPEs kit specify MIG. The welds will rust unless you coat them with something. I wire brushed the welds then shot them with VHT Clear.

 

I went with aluminized steel tube and it's all custom2 1/2 in with Walker turbos. The muffler guy here in town is an artist. Mine have been on almost 3 years and have not rusted yet. Stainless is not stain free, it will discolor and turn ugly just like any thing else under the car that sees weather. You don't have to weld it, there are nice clamps available for exhaust systems for every application.

 

I'm with Eric on this, I would use clamps as well for the do it yourself. You can tweak everything as you go. I have aluminized on another car I own and its still ok after 10 years. Its rusty in areas not punky at all yet. I hope you don't have too much trouble getting your system in Mac. All the best either way you with your choice.

 

Just giving you an idea here Mac, my stainless system will be finished today, I put flowmaster super 44's with the pipes I mentioned above all in up here in Canada it was $1285.00 installed. I had them install my headers and powermaster starter with new cables that was $375.00. I didn't have time to stop by the shop doing the job but I will take a few pics this weekend if you would like to see it. My rear end was also done along with my transmission . I really couldn't afford it but... Exhaust and rear ends, Transmissions just wasn't for me lol.

 

2 1/2" PYPES stainless steel mandrel bent header back kit, Walker Dynomax 17749 mufflers and 18" slant cut chrome tips all for less than $450 installed (of course, labor was free.......). I like a welded system, just looks cleaner to me. Just my .02.

 

If you can't commit to welding you can always flip the clamps and tighten them with a gearwrench ratcheting box end wrench .

 

That's a good deal Randy !! I know they have pre bent for the long tube headers, I wasn't sure about front pipes for the shorty headers. Good Idea copper I should have asked the shop to do that with my clamps, I'm just too lazy to spin them 180 now lol.

 

Maybe I should take part in the conversation, lol. Sorry guys, busy day.
Lots to think about. Tonight I'm leaning towards the aluminized with clamps and the Dynomax Super Turbos. Who knows what I'll be thinking tomorrow. Whichever way I go I'll need downpipes from the shorties.
I had also considered painting the system with silver stove paint. Easy to touch up.
UPDATE: firewall's done, I have all the AC parts so it's going back in this weekend (fingers crossed), so I'll be ready to plunk that motor back in soon. Finals are week after next so I'll probable wait until after.

 

Pics? We like pics

 

I can get this system for under $200 shipped with my good customer coupon;

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...23/20201129-p#

Copper, were you the one that mentioned the Thrush Turbos?

 

Drone free mufflers? They get good reviews...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...max#fragment-3

 

probably., they are on my dads car and it sounds good .

 

here is a clip with manifolds and thrush turbo mufflers . same engine that was in the burn out vid clip I posted.

 

Was that the video you put in this thread? I'll look it back up.

 

Yup, the Bonneville. Sounds pretty good.

 

yeah I was surprised at how nice they sound. Not obnoxiously loud just a nice mellow tone. perfect for a cruiser.

 

Oh, I missed the drive-by vid you just posted. Yeah, sounds pretty good. Probably even better in the open air instead of the garage. Does his system have an H or X pipe? Nice wheels on that Bonneville.

 

It has no h or x pipe . We where shooting for a cross between lowrider and muscle car the cragars where also the only wheels my dad liked. I wanted to do cragar 30 spokes with vogue tires.

 

Lol, us old guys like the SS's. How old is your pops?

 

He is 64 years old . He also used to have a super sweet 64 impala ss with cragars. So he kind of wanted that look.

 

Like Sam and Dean! Except they have a 67 four door and no Cragars, but you know. Supernatural; hot car, hot girls, ghosts...what else could we ask for?
I'm only 52 but I still like Cragars, lol.
I think I'm going to order the Dynomax exhaust with the Thrush mufflers. Will I need to cut off the flared ends where the pipes are supposed to hook to the full length headers?

 

You could buy the 3 bolt flanged reducers. and technically have an easily unboltable down pipe so if you ever needed to remove the engine again all you need to do is unbolt the down pipe. I have kind of always thought ahead and I set up my exhaust to be installed and removed very quickly so if I need to do a trans swap dropping the exhaust is 8 bolts and it drops. granted I don't have tail pipes but you could make the mid pipes bolted to the muffled so down the road you wouldn't have to take the whole exhaust apart to remove the trans or engine. Just a thought to ponder at. Now if you decide to make you mid pipe bolt on then forget the whole bolt on down pipe and just set up your down pipe to fit into your mid pipe then have them welded with bolt on reducers on each end and you avoid clamps and now have a quick and easy way to drop the trans with out the hassel of dealing with a clamped or solid welded exhaust.


something like this for the headers to down pipe.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sp...FSVgMgodaAMAeA


then something like this for the back to bolt onto the mufflers.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLANGE-2-25-...849e13&vxp=mtr

For this one you would need four 2 for each pipe and you would have to weld the pipe flat into the flange then a proper gasket. on my bolt on mufflers I never needed to use a gasket they have never leaked.


its extra work but if you ever have to drop your trans you wot have to fight your exhaust.

 

here you can see where I welded my flanges. I did this so I can unbolt my mufflers at the track to run the x pipe open. Just so you get an idea of what I was talking about.

 

I actually have the 2-1/2" reducers already, they came with the headers. I'll consider your suggestions but I certainly think I've decided against welding it up. I'll use you up-pointing clamps tip. It's a good one Do folks use anti-seize on the exhaust bolts?

 

Just thought I would throw that suggestion out there. Specially down the road if you plan on swapping a trans makes it real easy as pulling apart a clamped ex. is not the easiest thing to do. More of a convenience thing but its not needed.

 

Yeah, I'm sure it's not just the clamps that are a pain to remove. I would think separating the heat and time bonded pipes is challenging.

 

Missed this post too. The picture helps, thanks. Makes a lot of sense. We'll have to see how quickly my welding skills improve...or more accurately, become existent, lol.

 

I will try to get a few pics up early next week, If you want to hold off on that kit Mac. Mine car could be different but just to let you know coming off of the drivers side shorty header the bent is so tight to get it to the mufflers, Buddy said it was the hardest part of the exhaust. I hope you don't have the same issue with this as the headers come down but just to the point where it needs to be bent to go thru to mufflers. I went with 2 1/4 stainless opted out of the 2" . Maybe others that have put shorty headers on can chime in as well. Sounds great with the flowmaster super 44's given you have no neighbors. I also opted out of the 'H' pipe. I will try to get pics up Sunday nite. Lastly the rear 3:42 posi is a noticeable difference, you will be surprised when you get to your rear. Well worth the investment.

 

Too late, I already ordered the kit from Advance. I had a 35% off coupon that was going to expire.
Wasted hours this morning looking for the cork tape for the evaporator/exp valve. Called everywhere and nobody had it....that they knew of. Turns out Napa DID have it but didn't know it. A member here sent me the part number and sure enough.....sigh......
So I spent the day masking and painting the upper radiator support and fiddling with odds and ends in the engine bay.

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