X2 with eric . Remember the k.i.s.s. rule

 

Lol, Eric, exactly what I was thinking. So here's what happened: on my way out to school this morning I had to grab something from my shop. As I was passing by i thought I saw a huge scratch on one of the cylinder walls. I was running late and couldn't stop to investigate but it started eating at me during school and found those pistons over lunch. I just checked and it was a darned cat hair! Anyway, I think I'm good. This fella has some good deals though. I'll post them in the for sale forum. but eight of these pistons, new in the box, he's asking $150

 

That's good enough to be suspicious.

- Eric

 

don't pull the caps, you wont like the "looks" of them and will get sucked into new bearings, it didn't knock when pulled. quit trying to fix **** that aint broke. your gonna end up spending 3000 bucks on a crappy performing motor. mill the heads 25 thou get a good valve job the, the intake will bolt on. put it back togeather and drive it!!!

then you get a big block, build it on paper and then ya spend the 3000 bucks, I've been down this road before, quit it!

 

I currently have a 355 that I spend 3500 on intake to oil pan that should be good for 12's I spend 3300 on a low 13 sec engine and 2200 on a high 13 sec engine.

 

Well he's not too far from me. If I check them out, just for kicks, what should I look for?

 

Getting the heads back next week. Need one new guide, all new exhaust valves, a light (?) seat grinding (sounded more like lapping), seals, surfacing and hot tanking. New spring installed height looks good. I gave him the new gaskets and he said he won't change compression other than to raise it maybe a half point. I think I found the source of my squirrely compression readings.

 

Lars, it's going to depend on that rear seal. If I can get it out and the new one in, then I won't mess with the crank. If I can't, well I didn't come this far to have the motor belching oil. From what I've read here on CO it can go either way. But I think I'll have to at least pop the caps.

 

Honestly, aside from them having the right measurements, I have no idea.

If they're new and look good, then for that price, you should probably pick them up and put them on the shelf for next time.

- Eric

 

make shure the pins slide in the pistons freely, and no ring lands are cracked/chiped, check all 8 carefully, they should say +30 or 30 on them, or something. If you use the ford seal you should be able to get in

 

Thanks fellas. For on the shelf or passing along a good deal, either way, now I know what to look for. Might as well take a look at the 350 while I'm there. It's $100 and has the heads off and the pistons out. It's worth a look anyway. Now I just need to talk the wife into going for a drive. there's a place on the way that has the best damn pie in the state so I think she'll agree
Lars, that's the seal I ordered. I'm glad it's the correct one.

 

Hey guys, I want to check my clearances this weekend, you know, just for fun, but the manual says something I don't understand...
1. Remove cap
2. Place plastigauge
3.This is the one I don't get; "Use a floor jack or other means to hold the crankshaft against upper bearing shell. This is necessary to obtain accurate clearance readings when using plastigauge."
4. Re-install bearing cap and torque

My 350 is on a stand with the heads and pan off. What am I missing?

PS: I'm picking up my heads tomorrow

 

You're missing the fact that those instructions are for changing bearings with the engine in the car.

Your old frienemy gravity will hold the crank against the block in your case.

Just visually inspect the journals and shells, wipe clean of oil, place a piece of PlastiGage across the bearing from front to back, torque, un-torque, remove cap, measure width of PlastiGage with scale on envelope, and record.

Then sit there picking the stuff off your crank with your fingernail.

- Eric

 

I thought that might be the case but the picture looked like it was out of the car. And I didn't see where the manual said anything about using my fingernail, lol. Thanks for the info.
Oh, btw, speaking of fingernails, I read that I can use that as a test for the cylinder ridge (one of those "duh, why didn't I think of that" moments). I can't get my fingernail to catch on any of the cylinders except in one spot on one cylinder, and then it just barely catches. Another good sign, I think. If I have to pull the pistons, shouldn't have any problem. But I will take it easy on that one. If I decide to hone, would you recommend stone or something called a bead hone?

 

I would recommend not honing a low-mileage engine with no noticeable cylinder ridge that doesn't burn oil.

You hone it to expose fresh metal so that a new set of rings will seat properly.
Your rings are already seated.

If it ain't broke, you don't need to fix it.

- Eric

 

Oh sure, I should have clarified. I meant if I end up rebuilding and only if the clearances are way out of spec and/or the bearings look trashed. I'm still not convinced this is a low mileage motor. I've priced it out just in case and it look like for another $300 I could replace all the bearings, including cam, and the rings. That is if I don't have to buy any tools. I'll report back after I check.

 

You'll need a cam bearing tool to replace the cam bearings, but you probably don't need to.

The crank and rod bearings are easy, but you would want to check clearances and bearing shell stampings, as there could be some that are oversize.

Looks like a low-mileage motor to me.

- Eric

 

Some things point to low miles, some don't. It's a mixed bag. The Odometer says 55k but I found an obscure note in the back of the original owner's manual that reads "Tires - 57,000 miles. That could mean they were replaced at 57 or they will need to be replaced at 57k. Kind of a fun mystery.
If it comes to it, maybe Advance Auto rents the cam bearing tool.

 

I would pay the 50 bucks to have a shop do it. I have rebuilt my share of engines but cam bearings is something I do not do lol. It's just cheap insurance to have a shop do it.

 

I'll cross that bridge if/when i come to it. Thanks Copper.

 

Just measured the #1 main and it looks to me to be around .0028 -ish. Just under .003 in any case. I would assume I want all five to be close in measurement?

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Cap #2 - .003 on the dot

 

Ugh, the #3 cap is a little stuck. tapping it back and forth with a small hammer and block of wood. It moves a little but not enough.

 

wiggle it with the main bolts and pull up as you wiggle it. No pun intended.

 

They come out with a bit of gentle tapping and wiggling.
They're supposed to be tight like that.

- Eric

 

I may add don't tighten the main bolts lol just leave them loose and make sure they aren't in the threads just above them and pushed them against the main cap bolt holes and wiggle it as you have force against it while pulling up.

 

I was using a couple pieces of brass threaded rod. One in each hole, squeezed them together and wiggled. Worked for the first two. This one doesn't appear to be moving. I'll keep at it.

 

Oh wait, DON'T tighten the bolts? Haha, just kidding

 

If you get it to pull up some you can use a hose puller., the pick end to put a little upward force under the cap . There is lots of hose pullers mine happens to have a tight bend to it and I have done that in the past as well.

 

Still no luck. Hasn't even budged. I did bend a couple 3/8" steel rods giving it the ol' college try.

 

try using one bolt and tapping one side with a plastic hammer or something that wont mess the cap up. I didn't have that hard of a time last night I took one of my engines apart to start a new build. You motivated me lol

 

You did all that last night? Yowza! Looks fun though and that engine looks so clean. Oh you're the one with the degreaser-zilla, lol.
Wouldn't coming at it from a side jam it in there worse? As in, raising one side and not the other?

 

You would think it would jam it up but I had one come out like that before. I would probably try that one last as it was also a last ditch effort for me. That engine was a running engine I got it from a member here and had low miles. Gonna just polish the crank with crocus cloth ad have the balancer and flex plate neutral balanced since the rotating assembly then im using a block I got from a member here aswell with studs and straps on the mains. Should be a mild motor until I crank it up with nitrous lol.

 

I recommend tapping upward ("Off") on each side (Left and Right, not Front and Back) alternately with a brass or plastic hammer. Good, healthy taps.

She'll work up and off.

Once you can see light between the cap and the block, you can also use a non-marring tool to pry between them - won't take much.

- Eric

 

Fellas, once again you have pulled me from the fire. All the caps are off. I'll finish checking the specs tomorrow.
Eric, when can I expect your bill?

 

If you have to ask, you can't afford it.

Glad you got it apart.

- Eric

 

Lol!

 

Cleaning the valve train...

[IMG][/IMG]

 

OCD.

- Eric

 

Macadoo I love that idea. That's is awesome.