Makes sense, yes the plungers easily compress. We will see how close the pattern ends up.

 

Pretty much everything I can do till push rods show up, is done. Lower rad hose is tight, rad, electric fans in place along with trans cooler lines.

 

Finally after 2.5 months, these finally arrived. Will get these installed next week.

 

Who makes those? They have an interesting blue hue.

 

Mark's guy down in Florida makes them. They are nice but they should be for $400 US to my door. I shot some carb cleaner through them, the 1.65 ratio Harland Sharp rocker arms. I spun out all the poly locks. A Few were stiff before, one is still problematic, swear I fixed it. I will be cranking and building up oil pressure to make sure the preload is right. I will be doing a compression test, while I am there. See how the 2 year old 750 CCA AGM battery does, it was down to 3.4 volts! Still 3 years free replacement. Hopefully this last foot of snow that fell yesterday is the last. Supposed to be 20C(68F) by Wednesday. Get it running in weeks time is the goal.

 

I removed all the spark plugs with the intake off, I installed the push rods and rocker arms. I did a quick bare hand tighten to the rocker arms and started doing a compression test. Kept tightening any loose rocker arms lightly as I cranked it over. I was very happy with the numbers vs the non advanced Performer flat tappet cam despite a slightly lower compression and higher duration hydraulic roller cam. It goes as follows #1-180, #3-180, #5-170, #7-180, then #2-180, #4-180, #6-175 and #8-170. It is a nice improvement, was actually expecting a slight drop considering I am at 9.28 to 1 according to the Diamond compression calculator. I was at 9.6 to 1. Here are the old numbers, gained everywhere but number 8 which was the second highest, now the lowest cylinder, tied with #5. Will crank it over some more, check lash, then do it few times, then lock the rocker arms in place and put it all back together.

 

It’s not lash you’re setting, it’s preload. I’ve never seen preload set like that. you’ll have no idea where each lifter is preloaded at now.

didn’t we explain how to set proper preload on those comp hyd rollers a while ago that you were in on?

I give up

 

Yes, I have just eliminated so the plunger isn't depressed but I can spin the pushrod without moving it up or down with the lifters off lift. I should have not said I was done and ready to put back together. I have the dial indicator and base. So I measure one to .040" plunger down with the cam off lift(TDC) and turn the rest the same amount as the first one actually measured? The 40 on here correct?

 

A G Body member said it sure is pretty, very high quality parts, should be for 5 grand Canadian. Talked to Mark, he had 180 to 185 cranking compression on his test motor, very similar compression. His cam was slighty bigger but advanced 6 degrees and a tighter LSA. He made the most power at 40 degrees, I am trying the same with maybe a handful of vacuum advance on manifold.

 

I quote Dale here. they should also never be run at zero lash..they are very specific about the preload range, .040” is ideal

do the preload by using a dial indicator at the tip of the rocker on the pushrod side in-line with the pushrod. figure out how much rotation of the adjuster is need to compress the lifter .040” from zero lash. then do all the others by the same rotation of the adjust after zero lash at TDC firing. you only have to use the dial indicator on one to figure out the turn/depression set up for yours

there are way to many rocker ratios and stud thread combinations to get the .040” preload by using the common turns past lash set up….even though in the latest instructions they tell you to go 3/4 turn for 7/16 20 and 1 turn for 3/8 24 studs.

 

It ended up being around one turn in from zero lash. I set them all the same amount, valves should be set. Now it will start to go back together. Thanks Mark and Dale for the help.

 

I've never done this before so this may be a dumb question, but shouldn't the dial indicator plunger be in-line with the pushrod to get an accurate reading of the pushrod movement?

 

Good question, see if any of the engine builder's respond.

 

I would think so.

 

You posted Dales recommendation....

"they should also never be run at zero lash..they are very specific about the preload range, .040” is ideal

do the preload by using a dial indicator at the tip of the rocker on the pushrod side in-line with the pushrod"

 

Well it didn't matter, the rocker arms were binding on the studs, not an accurate reading. I had a brand new set of BBC ARP 7/16" rocker studs. A bit shorter and less abrupt stud base. I got the valves lashed. Fired up right away, sounds good. I had antifreeze leaks in all the weird places. I finally got the water pump sealed, it helps tightening the bolts, had to do it multiple times to seal. It also leaked at both of the pipe plugs and the sensor in the AMC thermostat housing in the new 7111 intake. I actually may skip the vacuum advance or have to dial it way back, this canister has about 30 degrees. I thought I pre adjusted it, didn't like 53 degrees at idle, had some pinging. Plugged it off, I have the base timing set at 17 degrees at 1000 rpm, 14 at 750 at 750 rpm. I revved it to 2500 to 4000 grand, most I saw was 40, locked it in there. I have mid-high 13's AFR at idle. It isn't charging, I see a wire pulled out of the the little plug in regulator. Snow and mucky out, not in a hurry to take it for a drive. Once I fix the charging, may take it for a rip.

 

I was in a hurry to drive it, despite it trying to snow. Put on a 16 pound Summit cap vs the failing 7 pound cap. It ran kind of crappy, a bunch of popping through the carb. I am pretty sure the O2 sensor for the wideband is shitting the bed. Even setting the idle was all over the place. I opened the idle channels on the mixture screws, a little does a lot. I got it in the high 13's. Then it was suddenly in the 11's and 12's. It's a Qjet, not a Holley, the tune doesn't change. Driving the numbers were really goofy, ridiculously lean, like 22 to 9's rich. It was neither before at any point. I have a new sensor, it will go in. I looked at the instructions for the Pertronix D9006 tuning kit. It was supposed to have 16 degrees vacuum advance, out of box, so I must have left it, it didn't, had like 30, which seems excessive. I turned it 5 turns counter clockwise, now about 12, puts timing at 29 at idle with vacuum advance, I can live with that, will put it at 52 total part throttle. I turned the APT out one turn, very easy to change idle, part throttle and wot on this Qjet. Both made a big difference, shaper part throttle, Olds like timing, including these new Edelbrock heads. Still a bit of popping under heavier throttle but better, will go another turn out. I had it pretty lean part throttle and this cam is more aggressive, can even hear it a bit at idle in gear. I may go to the high flow Robert shaw style180 thermostat vs this current 192 thermostat. Waiting for Kevin to get the proper rod for stainless for his Mig/Tig so I can throw these cats off the car and fully weld the exhaust. I am betting those cats are killing a lot of power.

 

I put the new O2 in, way better readings, actually possible. I used my new vacuum gauge, looks like 16" of vacuum, set there it was the high 11's AFR. I set it in the mid 13's range on the wideband. I set the APT one turn out. Still popping through the intake and AFR was in the 12's to 13's. Pretty sure I have one intake valve a touch tight, only under harder throttle. I may switch to my Robert Shaw style 180 thermostat but the 192 thermostat is working fine for now.

 

Been working on this getting it dialed in, finally pulling much stronger than the #6 iron and Performer cam. Pretty sure the valve lash is where it should be, finally. I may have to pull a degree or two of timing out, will see. I get the popping sometimes at higher rpm, thinking the mechanical fuel pump might not be keeping up. I pulled 5000 rpm cleanly, then I immediately pulled 3000 to 4000 rpm then had popping, pretty sure the AFR dipped. I have the in tank high output 350 LPM but would need to try the twenty year old Holley regulator that was never used. I leaned the APT out, ran stronger but still in the high 12's to low 14s part throttle. I saw high 11's to low/mid 12's WOT. I leaned the APT 1/2 turn in more but will will swap in the 180 thermostat in place of the 192 thermostat. Also decided to run the dual snorkel I made out of an 307 air cleaner with the larger 260 snorkel bolted on.

 

Well, these heads are different than stock iron, at lower rpm timing tolerated. They don't like a bunch of timing at idle. I had 29 degrees at 1000 rpm, 17 mechanical and 12 vacuum. No matter where I set the idle AFR, as soon I dropped it gear, drop 400 rpm and barely idled. I plugged off the vacuum advance, and it only dropped 250 rpm and actually got smoother as I let sit in gear. So I turned another 3/4 turn for less vacuum advance, should be 10 or less. I also switched from manifold to ported, should definitely help idle.

 

So it is definitely a fuel pump issue. I actually had it stop pulling a couple times, definitely fuel starvation. The new thermostat is in, runs a steady 185 degrees vs 195 to 200. My carb was so rich, I actually bottomed out the APT, only gave mid 15's, went slightly up, not cruising at mid 14's instead of 11 or 12's. WOT is also in the high 12's, much better. It actually leaned out my idle. I had to richen it some, now high 13's low 14's. It is way faster than before, off the line and mid range especially but needs more fuel. My regulator is stuck in my shed, literally ice around the doors despite being 70 degrees today.

 

I found my regulator and the big cleanable 10 micron filter. I have the big Holley Hydramat filter/sock then a 100 micron filter after the tank. I will eliminate the Wix 3/8" filter, I have an inline tee with a new gauge after the mechanical pump that can go in place of the 4th filter, which I will l continue using the mechanical pump as well.

 

So I plumbed in the fuel pressure regulator. Problem is, it doesn't regulate it low enough. With the adjustment backed all the way out, I saw 15 psi. It pushed past the needle and seat on the Qjet. Is there a decent non return line carb regulator? This one may be defective, probably 20 years old, unused.

 

it might be defective now that you put 60 pounds to it.

 

Yeah, that regulator probably is toast. Pulled the valve covers to check the lash, looked good. I could smell oil, some sitting just above the header. The Edelbrock coated cork valve cover gaskets, one split on the passenger side, must have over tightened. The driver's side looked perfect. Hopefully my plugs come for the pump on Monday. Hopefully I won't have to go electric and have nearly $500 in regulators. The budget is way over what I wanted to spend on this build, thousands of dollars ago.

 

One thing I noticed with these new heads is how quickly the engine warms up. Maybe the more efficient chamber. It hasn't gone much above 200 with a 192 thermostat. Now runs about 185 to 190 with a 180 Robert Shaw style thermostat. Even with fans turning on at 165, it gets up to 185 in literally a couple of minutes of idling at 700 rpm. The fast idle is permanently messed up. I swear Everyday Performance threw this carb against the wall right where the choke attaches when he first built it, I rebuilt and tweaked it since then. I should have started with a different core, I do have a better main body to use. I had to use washers to get the choke functioning at all. Fast idle is either all or nothing. I actually ordered a AC Delco Gold A/C solenoid to run on a toggle switch to bump the idle a couple of hundred when cold. With no crossover in the head, it is a bit cold blooded for a minute or two.

 

I went through the Qjet. Everything nice and clean inside. I removed the 73 primary jets and replaced with 71 jets. The 11's, 12's and 13's part throttle were no good. I set the APT at 5 turns out from seated. Too lean, high 14's to 17's stumbling, one turn more better but still high 16's to low 14's. One more turn out, perfect mostly 14's to low 15's with some high 13's sprinkled in. Idle ended up at 1.5 turns out and very high 13's low/mid 14's. WOT is more the issue, I saw 9's when I swapped .527 CV rods and a G hanger for .567 rods and a P hanger. Went back to the leaner rods and hanger, 10's and 11's. After the fuel pressure regulator install, 11's and 12's. Edelbrock still has a leaner V hanger, might be enough, if I can find one in Canada for sale. Otherwise will pick up used secondary .667" at a T hanger from Quadrajet power. Now fuel pressure, I saw 9 psi at cold start. I still had the brand new AEM fuel pressure regulator. I installed it, 6.25 psi like it said at cold start. I did drop to 3.5 psi hot idle but climbs to 5ish psi under throttle after a couple of good runs. Timing was still at 15 degrees at 1000 rpm. I tried running manifold vacuum, it didn't like the 10 extra degrees at idle or 25 degrees at idle. I also need better vacuum hose, it was actually holding extra timing which probably why it is a bit unstable at times. This was the fuel pressure just as I was pulling into my garage after a two hard runs.

It seems to like the UFA card lock Shell 91 no ethanol gas.

 

So I took it out for a leisurely drive. It ran fine, started the same as usual. I have the choke set on the lighter side, so 11's to 12's on the initial start and we finally have warm, if not hot weather. I saw very lean numbers, talking 17's and 18's should have been checking fuel pressure. I adjusted it another turn and a half out and the mixture screws slightly out. Then too rich, put it back, was perfect mid 14's to low 15's cruising and high 13's to low 14's at 3/4 turn out on the mixture screws. Will order the lean metering rods and T hanger along with the vacuum hose on Friday. I also very mildly scraped the passenger door, clean up, suction dent pull then Rust Destroyer Primer for our little secret.

 

The mixture screws only control idle mixture, as far as I know. Holley told me to set idle with a vacuum gauge and ignore the AFR.
My AFR will shoot way up lean when I close the throttle blades. Cruising around it's mid 13s, high 12s WOT. It still doesn't like to putt around under 2000rpm, though.

 

I get around 16" at idle in park, 1000 rpm. About the same as the last 218/218 flat tappet. You can definitely tell it isn't stock, cold especially. I will probably leave the primary where it is, if the vacuum is around 16". I enlarged the idle circuits, including the holes behind the screws to .090". Will lean out the secondary side. I would like a 750 Street Demon and Progression distributor but don't want to spend another $1500+ Canadian to have both.