If you have play in the TPS vs the shaft, you’ll have a stumble that’ll be hard to get rid of unless you do your transient via MAP. Which really isn’t the way to do it no matter what.

 

Thanks Mark, yeah it isn't ideal and don't plan on leaving it that way long term. I did confirm timing within a degree, found a minor fuel leak at the rail and did put a manual gauge on it, reading over 50 psi. Is it normal for the IAC to read very high at a start up? I may have went the wrong way on IAC curve.

 

It is what it is on the IAC, as long as it’s in single digits, hot, in neutral.

 

Well, I still have a minor leak at the back rail, tightened it more, don't want it any tighter. One of the rails got a bit of a ding in shipping from Mark. Hopefully it sealed up this time. I may pull it and put in a new O ring or different fitting. But it ran and drove across town, that is something.

 

Fuel leak is fixed, apparently an O ring is handy to seal the fuel rail. Well, I got my Ford TPS for the Speedmaster throttle body. It works, sort of. It has less of a lag in the throttle but only gets 60 percent TPS, no matter how I adjust it, including slotting the TPS mounting holes. The sensor goes to nearly 100 percent, just not with the throttle arm sweep. The US made Edelbrock 4 barrel includes and uses a Delphi GM LT1 TPS and GM IAC, whether it is the LS or earlier style, I have both on hand. It has good reviews and is available and cheaper than the Chinese Holley throttle body and not waiting on ships from China and currently on backorder. The only way I will buy another Speedmaster product is if someone like Mark goes through them, talking their cylinder heads, still holding out hope for the small chamber Edelbrock heads.

 

For the record, if you want a first class throttle body, the Wilson 4 hole is the best quality piece you’ll ever see. Pricey, but first class.

 

Would love one but over $1300 CAD shipped. The Edelbrock is 1/2 the price but doesn't include a MAT sensor built in like the Wilson.

 

Well, I think this Speedmaster throttle body is BS. So I got a BMW TPS sensor. The 8mm D head fits the shaft perfectly bolts in the stock holes but the 122 degree sweep isn't enough. To get 0% at idle, it puts it at 70% WOT. For 100% WOT, at 26%. Looks like I am buying the Edelbrock throttle body tomorrow.

 

You should be able to put some preload on the sensor, reset TPS, then see if it goes any higher on the other end.

 

So do the reset wizard? I can try it tonight.

 

Yeah, the TPS Wizard reset fixed it! Don't know why I didn't try it last night, used to nothing but road blocks on this build, I guess. 0 to 100% and instant TPS movement. This sensor is available cheap on Amazon from multiple sellers, so I will pick up an extra along with an extra LS IAC sensor to keep in the car.

 

Well this thing has fought me tooth and nail but is now running and driving! I changed the oil to 10W30 VR1 with 1 liter of 20W50 for good measure. I start it and the belt started walking on the pulley! I guess it started wobbling and almost ate the belt. Apparently the bearing was going out on the Dorman A/C delete pulley. It is touch higher than the target idle has Zero IAC and TPS. Talking 850 in gear and 950 in park, running better as I drove it. Would like to thank Mark Remmel has helped me out as usual and I am sure I will be bothering him more to get the tune spot on.

 

Well, I have been running the base Holley Terminator X Max tune with much more timing and the IAC at 8 rather than 40 percent. The TPS works flawlessly but goes massively lean on tip in and stalls when cold from stop signs. I am getting Cutlassefi to do a custom tune with better less generic parameters along with enabling the knock sensors. I also ordered the actual Holley to Terminator X Max laptop cable to properly tune this SEFI Olds 358.

 

Here's an idea: measure it correctly before throwing parts at it. Or, ask a Toyota forum.

 

Not sure what this has to do with my SEFI Olds 358?

 

Mark sent me a better tune. For some reason my current one it isn't loading on the SD card. Renamed it and says on the handheld it downloaded. Will try one more time on a new SD card, saying the file is corrupted on Mark's end. I tried to download it to Holley's software, says it isn't a valid calibration file. The massive initial lean spike really sucks to drive cold in the morning.

 

Whats a Toyota ?

 

Well, Mark sent me one of his tunes, definitely made it better. I finally got my tune loaded on a SD card to enail to him. Funny how a day off and new SD card, everything goes smoother. I also figured out where to load his tunes in the Holley files. Doimg **** after work never goes well. Loaded the revised tune from Mark, since he could finally look at my current tune. Hooked up my 300 psi gauge, showed 50+ psi, the little numbers are hard to tell, goes up in 10 psi. I started it, idle almost instantly went to where it should. Before it would either stall or struggle to idle above 500 or 600 rpm, I have it set at 850. I put it in gear and it didn't stall! My garage is downhill so it is under instant load. Will see how it runs and how steady the fuel pressure is driving.

 

So I needed to crack the throttle blades, was getting 100 percent IAC, hot in gear. Just opening it hair, 2% percent on the TPS brought it down to zero to 8% where it should be. Part throttle seemed stronger, IAC readings are are about half. Before the TPS reset it was idling around 1000 rpm, after the reset around 950, which I'm fine with. Will see if it idles better on cold start and if the off idle lean condition has improved tomorrow. Mark sent me an updated tune, will see how it works cold in the morning.

 

The updated tune still had some stalling but with the throttle blades cracked doesn't idle at 500 rpm cold anymore. Will drive it this week to let it learn.

 

So I decided to do a compression test, it was done cold, all plugs out, choke open and rear air door open and WOT. It is 160, 3 and 5 lowest to 175 psi for , rest was 168, 169 and three 170 psi. What octane would you recommend with those numbers, currently 91 non ethanol. Hoping with the new Edelbrock heads, 9.3 to 1 with 218/218 roller cam that 87 will be fine, a dollar a gallon cheaper but is 10% ethanol. I no longer have EFI on this motor, Terminator X would not communicate, needs to go in at some point if I want it. It currently has a custom tuned Qjet with a wideband and have the Performer intake instead of the RPM intake currently on it. The cam is the Edelbrock 204/214 hydraulic flat tappet straight up, checked with a degree wheel, was a within a degree of the cam card. The #6 heads weren't completely fresh when it was rebuilt. They were rebuilt a few years back but have seen some stuff, including a few bent push rods. It should be right around 9.5 to 1 compression. The plugs looked rich on the outer plugs, looked leaner on the outer cylinders. #1 plug was slighty wet, smelled more like gas then oil. Easily burnt off with a small torch I haven't checked the current idle tune, don't have the wideband currently hooked up. Basically I set the idle screws till the rpm stopped climbing, may be rich, think 5 turns out. I also finally have first gear! The rubber stoppers I added were blocking the shifter from engaging first.

 

I also dropped the plug gap to .035". Of course the NGK XR5 Iridium are ridiculous overkill. I have a set of the Ruthieum for the Edelbrock heads. I like fancy plugs and Ruthieum are supposed to be the best of all worlds. Supposedly last the longest with less resistance that Platinum ot Iridium.

 

Since my new 68cc Edelbrock heads should be shipping today, thought I would move to this thread. All down to the block, everything looks good, including the Edelbrock 204/214 cam, all lifters, a nice circular pattern on all the lifters. Cylinders, no scoring, similar colour and Andy Miller, no oil in the combustion chambers. Will tuck these number 6 heads and this cam, lifters in order and the timing set in a sealed tote if I get a crank for my 403.

 

there’s proof why you should always use a TQ plate when honing

 

Yes, none of this exactly how I wanted it, here we are 4 years later.

 

Anyways🙄, got everything cleaned, vacuumed and tapped all the bolt holes. Put the performance module, new cap, rotor with the Accel Brute Thunder coil with low resistance contact in the Chinese Billet HEI. It has a points like curve, should allow more base timing to hit 40 total, since I am in .1 of Mark's mule at 9.3 to 1, made the most power at that timing. Test fit the head gaskets, perfect fit for the 4.100" bore, the Mr Gasket 4.100"×.040" thick MLS head gaskets. Also received the new C clips this afternoon, will pull them apart tomorrow, clean and reassemble. The assembly is supposed to be here Sunday. Mark shipped the heads today, supposed to be here Monday. The landed price of these heads is mighty painful in Canadian dollars, over another $300 in duty to cross our border.

 

So I received the assembly lube so I hit the cam lobes with Lucas Assembly lube and VR1 Synthetic 10W30 on the journals. In place and turns nice. I also installed the Cloyes Billet 9 way timing set. The chain fits super tight, very impressed. Also cleaned and hand threaded all the head bolts, went in really nice. Also chased the threads on all the header bolts. Use a razor blade and carb cleaner on all the surfaces again and covered. The heads are already at Winnipeg, Manitoba, 5 hours away, should be here by Monday. Yes!

 

I'd spray the chain with a high moly chain lube for break-in if possible ($.02/$.035). These smallblock builds always impress me, looking forward to your best outcome and "seat of the pants" impressions.

 

Yes, I was going to lube the chain before I close it up. I have some Castrol chain lube. Will definitely give a seat of the pants. It should have 400 HP and 450 ft-lbs of torque, enough for me.

 

So the cam is in where it is supposed to be, bolt torqued to 65 ft-lbs. Cleaned everything again, including the MLS head gaskets with brake cleaner. Then when 25, 50 and 70 ft-lbs, last one twice with ARP lube on their head bolts and a dab of Permatex Silver Antiseize on the washer. Lifters were soaked and Lucas assembly lube on the roller wheels. The distributor is also loosely in place. Next will be using my checker pushrod to check pusher length needed. Man, 3/8" push rods are not cheap these days.

 

I remembered to lube the chain since I am turning it over a bunch by hand. Just operating this Comp cam adjustable push rod was ridiculous. It stripped the nut and bent using it, junk. I also had to grind off the nut to fit through the head opening. After going up and down a couple of times with a pattern that moves very little open to close, I get 8". Contacted Mark on what length he is using on these builds.

 

you aren’t suppose to use the pushrod length checker with the running springs. It’s meant to be used with lite checking springs. you should have put two lite checking springs on one cylinder, then sat the head on block, rolled it over to get desired pushrod length, then add your head gasket thickness to the length

it also goes in from the top..or disassemble it and reassemble it while putting it in from the bottom if the guide plates are in the way of the adjuster nuts.

 

Makes sense, unfortunately no checker springs. Curious what length Mark is ending up with these rockers and the new heads.

 

Went over the rocker adjustment again, I torqued the rocker arms too tight. After adjusting the pushrod length back and forth. I got a measurement of 7.875" needed. Mark is getting me oil restricted pushrods from his local guy who makes them. I just test fit the intake, looks good, all the bolts start. Glued to the heads with intake gaskets with the Right Stuff on the 4 corner water ports and Aviation sealant on all the intake ports. I will repeat on the other side with the Right Stuff on the China wall on final install.

 

Front cover on with the old style Flowkooler with the rivet on plate are on. It actually went on super easy with the pan bolts loose and only one side dropped a 1/4". A 5" long 3/4" fine thread bolt with a 3/4" drive socket and the factory washer makes a great harmonic balancer installer. Glad I installed the chrome dual groove power steering pulley, need it to not have the power steering and alternator belt on the same groove. The later style power steering pump and brackets easily clears the wider aluminum head. Used a 3 groove aluminum water pump pulley and a March 2 groove, same size as the factory non A/C crank pulley. Put antiseize on the lower alternator bracket bolts. Had brand new Gates/Napa V belts hanging up.

 

I am using the Chinese copy of 7111 for the intake. It is a very nice piece, inside and out, it saved me $300 over the Edelbrock. I also got the Dorman AMC and Olds replacement thermostat housing. Both look good, went with AMC housing since has a sensor port for my Davies Craig controlled, Plymouth Breeze dual electric fans. I went with 192 thermostat leftover from my Dakota, it ran on the cool side with big 2 core aluminum rad. I just a test fit, no issues what so ever. The runner opening is pretty close to actual runner size, where they neck down almost right away from the initial port opening. The Edelbrock intake gaskets, bought from the 4 gasket kit, intake, exhaust, valve cover and basic Felpro blue head gaskets, which I used with the iron #6 heafs. The Edelbrock BBO intake gaskets fit the heads almost perfectly. The exhaust gaskets also fit fairly well but have big space below the port due to the raised floor. The exhaust gaskets that came with the stainless headers are a tiny bit narrow. I have SCE copper header gaskets but they almost fit better upside down. I will try the Edelbrock header gaskets dry since these have 3/8" flanges.

 

I got the headers on, harder than you think, needed 3 shorter header bolts, one had to be put in place and held with a wrench. Good thing the passenger side pipe fell off, used the jack to put pressure then hit the clamp with my impact. Also installed the spark plugs set them at a tight .040", about where they were out of the box. I put high temp Permatex copper high temp antiseize on the spark plug and header bolts. I also installed the massive 1/0 negative battery cable to the back of the head and an extra body ground and the factory fiberglass tube for the power wire to mini starter. I used Permatex silver on those two bolts, going into the aluminum head. Also coated the intake gaskets with Permatex silver antiseize on all the intake bolts and will do the valve cover bolts as well. I actually shortened the alternator power stud. The 4 gauge wire from the battery, triple protected since it runs along the front of the block. Hooked it to to the 80 amp 10DN chrome alternator converted to a 1 wire set up. Tightened the power steering belt and hooked up the oil pressure line as well. Basically done till my push rods arrive.

 

Looking very good! I have always used just the inner valve springs when checking pushrod length and make my own adjustable pushrod from an extra stock pushrod.

 

Yeah that is how I should have checked them. They should be close, basically tightened the poly lock with my fingers to take up the slack. Hoping I never have to adjust after the first try. I plan on setting them, then cranking it over, will do a compression test at that time as well. Then see if I looks right after oil pressure is built up.

 

no that’s not what you should have done. the inner spring will still compress the plunger when they are dry. the length checker is also not suppose to be under any normal spring pressure ..not even the inner spring

you should have gone to your local hardware store and spent $5.00 on a couple of springs like this. checking springs are just soft compression springs you can get in the nut and bolt section. an od of 3/4” to 1” and cut them to about 2” or whatever will hold the valve closed

that’s all I’ve used .