350 Rocket not running good after oil change
June 18th, 2009, 06:53 AM
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350 Rocket not running good after oil change
I changed the oil in my 68 Cutlass for the first time (I bought it a week ago) and now it's just not running smooth. It was running good before the oil change I don't believe its related to the oil, it feels like it's missing or something. Should I try changing plugs and points and see if that helps? I didn't mess with anything other than changing the oil and I put a new filter and 5 qts and now it sort of bogs and almost dies and then picks up again and then almost dies and back and forth. It felt more like a gas or ignition thing. Any ideas on where to start? I'm new to carbs and new to this car.
June 18th, 2009, 08:53 AM
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The only thing I messed with that I can think of is I was contemplating changing the spark plugs but I dind't have time and I wiggled one of the wires at the connection point but the boot was still on from what I can tell. It's been raining it's butt off here too, so maybe a possibility the humidity or dampness. I'm gonna check that spark plug wire out tonight and try changing the spark plugs, points, and wires and see if that doesn't help. 5 qts is the correct amount of oil, right? The dipstick on the vehicle says made in taiwan and I'm possitive its not the right one so it reads like I overfilled or something, but I emptied completely and put exactly 5 qts in. The sensation it's giving is almost like it was almost out of gas. It would struggle and then it would go and then struggle and back and forth so i stopped and put a full tank in. It just seemed odd that it happened after the oil change.
June 18th, 2009, 09:24 AM
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Yes, if the motor has the stock oil pan.
That needs replacing for sure! 
An ignition problem can cause this.
June 20th, 2009, 07:36 AM
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Everyone I've talked to seems to think it may be moisture in the distributor cap causing it because we've had an unusual amount of the rain the last month and half. It seems like it's rained every day. And I certainly think that could be the cause. It looks to me that the previous owner may have upgraded to HEI, but I'm not positive. I'll post some pics of it later. I have no idea what brand or anything. The cars still new to me and the previous owner has done some work to the car and I'm still in the process of trying to identify what's been changed and what's original. The previous owner told me that when he bought it, he found it had a comp cam, which I still have the original directions for in the glove box. It has headers (rusted and brand unkown, but not leaking) and dual side exit exhaust. I know it has an aftermarket manual carb choke. I believe the 4bbl carb is original, but not positive on that either. It has a holley air cleaner. Previous owner said the tranny is a super turbine 400 (It def has three speeds, but yet to be confirmed if it's 400 or 350, all I know is the speedo cable doesn't fit right and is not currently hooked up). I'm also trying to determine what rear end is on there, whether it's Posi or what gears. So I'm slowly going over everything to figure out what's been changed and what hasn't. Any advice or a place to look to identify all this stuff?
June 20th, 2009, 08:26 AM
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The origional carb should say Quadrajet on the drivers side.
Jack up the car and spin one wheel, does the other turn also?
After you've check all the wires and vacuum lines, pop the distributer cap and examine for moisture.
Let us know and someone can help you muddle thru the problems. Also post some pics when you have time.
Jack up the car and spin one wheel, does the other turn also?
After you've check all the wires and vacuum lines, pop the distributer cap and examine for moisture.
Let us know and someone can help you muddle thru the problems. Also post some pics when you have time.
June 20th, 2009, 02:22 PM
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From when I've driven it, no, but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen. I noticed that it was missing. I'll buy one from fusick or something unless I can pick up a cheap one used. I was thinking of ditching that fan for an electric unit anyway. Any thoughts? I can't figure out what distributor is in there. I believe it has a gray dist. cap on it with a black coil. I don't know. I'm gonna pop the cap off this weekend and see if it is moisture in there and see if it needs a new dist. I bought the recommended spark plugs for the stock setup without knowing it was HEI, does that matter or do a need different plugs and what should I gap them to? Thanks!
June 21st, 2009, 06:13 AM
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June 21st, 2009, 08:50 AM
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I agree, by all means keep the clutch fan.
With the later model intake on it, it makes me wonder what the rest of the engine came from.
Odds are that previous owner started with later engine to begin with.
Can you ID the heads, and year of block?
Jim
With the later model intake on it, it makes me wonder what the rest of the engine came from.
Odds are that previous owner started with later engine to begin with.
Can you ID the heads, and year of block?
Jim
June 21st, 2009, 10:02 AM
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June 21st, 2009, 12:02 PM
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it looks like it's a 350 from 68-70 and the #8 heads, I'm not sure about. Does anyone know for sure? Then on the manifold, I'm not sure if that's aftermarket or not. I was really hoping maybe this thing mysteriously had a 455 or a 425 in there that he had painted gold or something but I don't think so.
June 21st, 2009, 12:44 PM
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it looks like it's a 350 from 68-70 and the #8 heads, I'm not sure about. Does anyone know for sure? Then on the manifold, I'm not sure if that's aftermarket or not. I was really hoping maybe this thing mysteriously had a 455 or a 425 in there that he had painted gold or something but I don't think so.
So now you need to look at the machined pad on the block just below where you found the head casting number and find the numbers that have been punched into the pad. They will be something like 33m236528.
"3" is olds, "3 is the year, "m" is the plant the car was built in, and "236528" will match the last 6 numbers of the original car the engine came in.
The #8 heads were used from 73-76.
The intake matches that with the EGR.
My guess is it's a later engine that was dropped in.
June 21st, 2009, 12:53 PM
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Is that good or bad? Eventually I'd love to rebuild a 425 or 455 and drop that in down the road but right now I'm gonna focus on the body and chassis first. The previous owner also states that it was a super turbine 400 in there as well. How do I tell? I'm sorry for all the questions. I'm trying to identify what's been replaced on the car and with what? Also with hei what should the new plugs be gapped to?
June 21st, 2009, 01:05 PM
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Personally I don't like to gap over .045". When Old introduced the HEI system in late 1974 the gap they went with was .080". That's a bit crazy and puts extra strain on the coil.
Get the correct plugs for the 72 and gap them between .040" and .045. It'll run well with that.
The engine will be solid from a staring point. It's just that the #8 heads are not the best on the exhaust side right out of the box. I have heard and seen that with some port work on the exhaust side they work just as well as #5, #6, #7 and #7A castings.
When you decide to go with a big block don't freak about it. It's a VERY easy swap. You will need new headers, but the mounts can be re-used if need be. I would suggest new ones for the engine you already have to use on the BBO. It's a direct swap. DON'T get them for a 455 as the frame pads are different. There is no need to change them though. The lower end of the SBO vs the BBO are the same.
Get the correct plugs for the 72 and gap them between .040" and .045. It'll run well with that.
The engine will be solid from a staring point. It's just that the #8 heads are not the best on the exhaust side right out of the box. I have heard and seen that with some port work on the exhaust side they work just as well as #5, #6, #7 and #7A castings.
When you decide to go with a big block don't freak about it. It's a VERY easy swap. You will need new headers, but the mounts can be re-used if need be. I would suggest new ones for the engine you already have to use on the BBO. It's a direct swap. DON'T get them for a 455 as the frame pads are different. There is no need to change them though. The lower end of the SBO vs the BBO are the same.
June 21st, 2009, 01:43 PM
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the tranny plate is blue and it says hydramatic on it and the serial number reads :
71-0D 1297 and the two big numbers on it from what I can tell are 0 and D, but they rather worn out. Any ideas what tranny?
71-0D 1297 and the two big numbers on it from what I can tell are 0 and D, but they rather worn out. Any ideas what tranny?
June 21st, 2009, 02:21 PM
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I got the plugs for the 68 cutlass as I thought that's what the motor was. Is that going to matter? Are they the same thing? I bought autolites I think. Will those work? I cant see the vin derivative on the block. It's missing or painted over. Anywhere else I should check?
June 21st, 2009, 04:21 PM
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That's the only place it will be.
You're going to have to scrape it clean to see it. If for some reason the pad is blank the block is a service replacement. The dealer is supposed to re-stamp the block upon replacement, but the mechanic didn't always do it.
You're going to have to scrape it clean to see it. If for some reason the pad is blank the block is a service replacement. The dealer is supposed to re-stamp the block upon replacement, but the mechanic didn't always do it.
July 6th, 2009, 10:38 AM
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I'm thinking I'm going to go ahead and change the fuel pump and water pump and oil pump out for good measure until I can afford the 455 swap, but since I don't know what year the motor is from, how do I know which fuel pump/ water pump/etc to get?
July 6th, 2009, 04:19 PM
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Get the fuel pump, and water pump for that vehicle. When they ask which engine you have, just tell them that it is the 350.
The oil pump is a bit more of a job, but the melling M22F pump works on 307/330/350/400/403/425/455, from 64 through 87. The oil pump drive SHOULD come down with the oil pump, unless it gets jammed in the bottom of the distributor. Get a new one, they are like $6.00.
These engines are great for interchangeability.
Jim
The oil pump is a bit more of a job, but the melling M22F pump works on 307/330/350/400/403/425/455, from 64 through 87. The oil pump drive SHOULD come down with the oil pump, unless it gets jammed in the bottom of the distributor. Get a new one, they are like $6.00.
These engines are great for interchangeability.
Jim
July 7th, 2009, 11:27 AM
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I am assuming that the guy who installed the engine in the car used the pulleys from the car.
An A/C car uses different pump than a non-A/C car. It seems that you have A/C pulley's make sure to get the long A/C water pump.
Sorry bout that.
Jim
An A/C car uses different pump than a non-A/C car. It seems that you have A/C pulley's make sure to get the long A/C water pump.
Sorry bout that.
Jim
July 7th, 2009, 11:39 AM
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Yeah the a/c was pulled and I have no idea if I should buying engines with a/c products or without. And then the stamp on the side of the block that states the year it's from is nowhere to be found, so I'm trying to make sure I get the right parts.
July 7th, 2009, 12:08 PM
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When you decide to go with a big block don't freak about it. It's a VERY easy swap. You will need new headers, but the mounts can be re-used if need be. I would suggest new ones for the engine you already have to use on the BBO. It's a direct swap. DON'T get them for a 455 as the frame pads are different. There is no need to change them though. The lower end of the SBO vs the BBO are the same.
July 7th, 2009, 06:01 PM
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Yeah the a/c was pulled and I have no idea if I should buying engines with a/c products or without. And then the stamp on the side of the block that states the year it's from is nowhere to be found, so I'm trying to make sure I get the right parts.
dont mean to steal the thread or anything but where can i get some motor mounts for a 307?? i called all the auto parts stores here and they say they dont have any listed
Example, I have anchor #2328 for a 307 in a 86 Buick Regal, will fit Cutlass, Gran Prix, etc...with a 307, but also the 260, 330, 350, 400, 403, 425, and 455 because they all have the same bolt holes. Go to:
http://www.anchor-online.com/products.htm
Last edited by Warhead; July 7th, 2009 at 06:03 PM.
July 7th, 2009, 09:45 PM
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Depends on what model you have, but if they don't LIST it, I think the guy did not even want to look, or was too dumb. Find a guy who will.
Example, I have anchor #2328 for a 307 in a 86 Buick Regal, will fit Cutlass, Gran Prix, etc...with a 307, but also the 260, 330, 350, 400, 403, 425, and 455 because they all have the same bolt holes. Go to:
http://www.anchor-online.com/products.htm
Example, I have anchor #2328 for a 307 in a 86 Buick Regal, will fit Cutlass, Gran Prix, etc...with a 307, but also the 260, 330, 350, 400, 403, 425, and 455 because they all have the same bolt holes. Go to:
http://www.anchor-online.com/products.htm
October 13th, 2009, 08:45 PM
#34
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i kno this thread was about the guys spark issues and him changing his oil but i have a small question i have a vacuum leak somewhere i have smoke tested my motor and havent found one in the motor my carb is brand new and i have a brand new distributor with new springs and arc kit and ign module but it has a lil motor rock ever time i can calm it down but its always there and i know my motor doesnt have any issues
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