455 Pictures and Questions
#121
I said this before. I was not going to rave about it. Some things just have to be learned through experience.
To repeat what I said in an earlier post: Why make things more complicated than they have to be?
You'll get this.
- Eric
#122
That doesn't make any sense. The spacing between the water pump and crank are identical on the 350 and the 455. They use the same balancer, timing gears and chain and timing cover.
If you used everything that was on the 350 on the 455 it should all fit.
If you used everything that was on the 350 on the 455 it should all fit.
Last edited by svnt442; July 13th, 2016 at 09:21 PM.
#123
The crank and water pump pulleys should be used in sets, as the factory intended. The water pump can be underdriven (large pulley on top, small on bottom) or overdriven (small pulley on top, large on bottom). I could see where a large pulley in both places might interfere, though I've never tried it nor done the math.
#124
The bottom pulley on the 350 was considerably larger then the one on the 455 , I just assumed tight away it had something to do with the waterpump since it is a different length . I've been trying to do wayyyy to much lately , I will take another look at it tomorrow and snap a photo or something . Like I said , everything seems to line up perfect as far as the belts are concerned . The only other thing I seen I already mentioned , the alternator bracket does not line up with the hole that the exhaust manifold bolts into .
#125
The crank and water pump pulleys should be used in sets, as the factory intended. The water pump can be underdriven (large pulley on top, small on bottom) or overdriven (small pulley on top, large on bottom). I could see where a large pulley in both places might interfere, though I've never tried it nor done the math.
#128
#130
#131
The upper bracket is an SBO-only bracket. The extra space is due to the taller deck height of the 455. Use a longer bolt and a spacer in there. You can fabricate the spacer from a short section of steel tube, electrical conduit, etc.
#132
That's what I was going to do , but then I got pissed and put the 455 bracket back on with the 350 alternator. I don't know why I did that because what you just suggested would be easier then putting all the 455 parts back on anyhow at this point . ( Probably because I couldn't find a long enough bolt ) I was hoping I would have this car out of my moms garage before I went on vacation .
#133
Well , I got the motor in the car lined up perfectly on the motor mounts , but the tranny sits about 2 inches away from the motor . Also the power steering unit had to be removed because it was hitting the steering gear box . I will post some pictures before I go on vacation if I get time .
#135
But... but...
Didn't this car have a 350 previously? Unless the frame pads have been moved, it isn't possible to mount the engine forward of the correct location. Even if you hold the motor mounts to the wrong holes in the block, that moves the engine back.
Didn't this car have a 350 previously? Unless the frame pads have been moved, it isn't possible to mount the engine forward of the correct location. Even if you hold the motor mounts to the wrong holes in the block, that moves the engine back.
#136
But, if he somehow messed up the mounting of the motor mounts... I don't know, but the combination of transmission too far back and P/S pump hitting steering box sounds to me like an engine that is just a bit too far forward... somehow.
I've never had a transmission move backward, but I know there is a bit of extra length in the slip yoke, so I suppose if all of its mountings were loosened, it might move backward.
- Eric
I've never had a transmission move backward, but I know there is a bit of extra length in the slip yoke, so I suppose if all of its mountings were loosened, it might move backward.
- Eric
#137
But, if he somehow messed up the mounting of the motor mounts... I don't know, but the combination of transmission too far back and P/S pump hitting steering box sounds to me like an engine that is just a bit too far forward... somehow.
I've never had a transmission move backward, but I know there is a bit of extra length in the slip yoke, so I suppose if all of its mountings were loosened, it might move backward.
- Eric
I've never had a transmission move backward, but I know there is a bit of extra length in the slip yoke, so I suppose if all of its mountings were loosened, it might move backward.
- Eric
I can't utilize the other holes for the engine pads because the motor would be another 6 inches forward . I bought the Anchor 2261 mounting pads like I was told from someone on here .
I MAY be able to put the PS pump on now , but it still looks like the pulley will hit the gear box .
#138
is it possible the mounts on the frame are different ? The PO did a lot of rigging and changing of parts on this car . I have the Anchor 2261 pads . I will post a few pictures , but I was in a hurry to go to work that they may not cover everything you would need to see . Give me an hour and I will have them posted .
#139
So, the transmission could have moved back just a bit in the course of all of the other things that have been going on...
- Eric
#140
Here's the pictures I said I'd post . The motor looks a lot closer then I remember seeing it . Maybe I just need to move the chains around and screw with it some more when I get back from vacation ....
It's a bit hard to see , but here's an image of the limited space where the PS goes ....
You can see the gap in between the motor and tranny here ....
It's a bit hard to see , but here's an image of the limited space where the PS goes ....
You can see the gap in between the motor and tranny here ....
#142
I had both Dowels in the holes on a couple of occasions , but every time I tried to move the motor in position one would pop out . There was some fancy talking going on right about then . I think part of the problem is how I have the motor angled . I also had a jack / board under the tranny . Once again , every time I tried to jack it up or down the a dowel would pop out .
#143
The transmission probably needs to be higher.
I say that because, in my experience, the transmission always needs to be higher.
Mate up the engine, add fasteners, take the jack out from under the transmission, then lower away.
- Eric
I say that because, in my experience, the transmission always needs to be higher.
Mate up the engine, add fasteners, take the jack out from under the transmission, then lower away.
- Eric
#144
I got a chance to work on the car yesterday after our camping trip , and I FINALLY got the motor and tranny together . It was a matter of putting a bolt in part way when I had it real close together so the cog wouldn't pop out when I was jacking the tranny up like it was before . Boy , those bell housing bolts SUCKED . I got a few other things done , but once again here comes the questions ....
Where should I mount the coil ? It sure as heck ain't going where it originally was . Not enough room between the back of the motor and the firewall . It also looks like I'll have to use the fuel pump off of the 350 also . The one one the 455 has an extra port . I'll post more pics later .
Where should I mount the coil ? It sure as heck ain't going where it originally was . Not enough room between the back of the motor and the firewall . It also looks like I'll have to use the fuel pump off of the 350 also . The one one the 455 has an extra port . I'll post more pics later .
#147
I'm not sure . It looks like the typical coil that would of came with the Toro . I will be taking some pictures tomorrow . I was over working on this car all day in 90 degree heat . I must of sweat out 10 gallons today . I made a couple of dumb moves that set things back a bit today , but it's pretty much done . I just have to add the fluids , tighten a few things , and hope it starts .
#150
No start . It's almost like no gas is getting through the carb . It definitely gets to the carb because gas was shooting out all over from the rig job on the front . I bought new orings and fixed that issue just to get it started . I replaced the plug wires , dist cap , rotor cap , points , and coil . It seems the only thing left would be the carb . I'm betting the jets are completely plugged . I also poured gas in the carb with no avail . I was going to soak the carb in vinegar or something for a few days after I take it apart to see if the car will start then , then it's off to get a new carb or a rebuilt original .
#153
If you look at a grounded spark plug, it should have a fat, blue-white spark (not orange or yellow).
If you arrange the end of a spark plug wire about ¾" (or maybe an inch, if everything is right) from ground, you should get a nice blue spark that easily jumps the gap.
- Eric
If you arrange the end of a spark plug wire about ¾" (or maybe an inch, if everything is right) from ground, you should get a nice blue spark that easily jumps the gap.
- Eric
#154
Carb plugged or not, if everything else is right it should fire when gas is poured down the carb throat. If you have spark, double check the firing order, goes counter clockwise and maybe move the distributor to the firewall, on the passenger side, that is advancing it.
#155
Carb plugged or not, if everything else is right it should fire when gas is poured down the carb throat. If you have spark, double check the firing order, goes counter clockwise and maybe move the distributor to the firewall, on the passenger side, that is advancing it.
#156
Ok I get it I think . I should check timing ? I don't have a light , but could get one or borrow one . I just undo that bolt at the bottom of distributor and turn a click ?
lol , wasn't thinking . This won't work if it's not running . I can very well turn it a click and try to start it though . I can always put it back if it don't work . I will check the spark deal Eric told me about first .
lol , wasn't thinking . This won't work if it's not running . I can very well turn it a click and try to start it though . I can always put it back if it don't work . I will check the spark deal Eric told me about first .
Last edited by oldsguybry; July 24th, 2016 at 06:47 AM.
#157
I have a bunch of pictures when I get back from museum later on . I get no spark , I put a spark plug from the 350 in the number one plug wire on the 455 and tried to crank it ..... Nothing , no spark what so ever . I even tried it with a screw driver in the plug wire close to something metal .... Nothing .
I had everything tagged where ALL the wires came from including the parts that were connected there . One tag fell off the starter but the other two were still on there , so I put the single wire to the other side that was vacant where I assumed the tag was . The only other thing I can think of is I broke some kind of wire that I'm not seeing under the casing or something . The wire from the distributor going to the coil was almost broke in half . I cut it the rest of the way and spliced it , but I added about four inches of new wire to the existing wire because it was to short to work with . I have them twisted together pretty tight , so I wouldn't think that's the problem . I will add the pictures later .
I had everything tagged where ALL the wires came from including the parts that were connected there . One tag fell off the starter but the other two were still on there , so I put the single wire to the other side that was vacant where I assumed the tag was . The only other thing I can think of is I broke some kind of wire that I'm not seeing under the casing or something . The wire from the distributor going to the coil was almost broke in half . I cut it the rest of the way and spliced it , but I added about four inches of new wire to the existing wire because it was to short to work with . I have them twisted together pretty tight , so I wouldn't think that's the problem . I will add the pictures later .
#158
#159