455 Pictures and Questions
August 2nd, 2016, 07:22 PM
#201
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Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 4,249
OK....the picture is not what the description says it is.....ugh.
Core (in) 28-1/4 x 16-7/8 x 2-1/2
Inlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Outlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Inlet 1-9/16
Outlet 1-9/16
Mount Type Saddle Mount
Core Rows 2
Transmission Oil Cooler Yes
Engine Oil Cooler No
Oil Cooler (Concentric)
Radiator Flow Type Crossflow
Tank Material Plastic
Core Material Aluminum
Core (in) 28-1/4 x 16-7/8 x 2-1/2
Inlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Outlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Inlet 1-9/16
Outlet 1-9/16
Mount Type Saddle Mount
Core Rows 2
Transmission Oil Cooler Yes
Engine Oil Cooler No
Oil Cooler (Concentric)
Radiator Flow Type Crossflow
Tank Material Plastic
Core Material Aluminum
August 3rd, 2016, 03:09 AM
#202
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I also missed the blue light special at K-Mart 
. No cheap plastic junk from China for me this time around . Wait , back then it was made in Japan , not China ..... Ahhhh , the memories . Actually toward the beginning of this thread , if you recall , my mom was quite ill from her Chemotherapy , and I was a bit worried about that . Along with the fact that I had a lot of junk in her garage / basement that I would have to deal with if something happened to her . In other words , I would have to clear her house out because the bank would of got her house . I'm sure glad I did this motor swap now with how long it took to get the car mobile . I wouldn't of had time to do all of this under those circumstances . This is why I threw this motor in my car before painting it , getting things I need , or planning ahead ( I never do anyhow ) . Otherwise I would of had a radiator , tranny , and posi rear end before I started this .
. No cheap plastic junk from China for me this time around . Wait , back then it was made in Japan , not China ..... Ahhhh , the memories . Actually toward the beginning of this thread , if you recall , my mom was quite ill from her Chemotherapy , and I was a bit worried about that . Along with the fact that I had a lot of junk in her garage / basement that I would have to deal with if something happened to her . In other words , I would have to clear her house out because the bank would of got her house . I'm sure glad I did this motor swap now with how long it took to get the car mobile . I wouldn't of had time to do all of this under those circumstances . This is why I threw this motor in my car before painting it , getting things I need , or planning ahead ( I never do anyhow ) . Otherwise I would of had a radiator , tranny , and posi rear end before I started this .
August 3rd, 2016, 03:12 AM
#203
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August 3rd, 2016, 03:15 AM
#204
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OK....the picture is not what the description says it is.....ugh.
Core (in) 28-1/4 x 16-7/8 x 2-1/2
Inlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Outlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Inlet 1-9/16
Outlet 1-9/16
Mount Type Saddle Mount
Core Rows 2
Transmission Oil Cooler Yes
Engine Oil Cooler No
Oil Cooler (Concentric)
Radiator Flow Type Crossflow
Tank Material Plastic
Core Material Aluminum
Core (in) 28-1/4 x 16-7/8 x 2-1/2
Inlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Outlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Inlet 1-9/16
Outlet 1-9/16
Mount Type Saddle Mount
Core Rows 2
Transmission Oil Cooler Yes
Engine Oil Cooler No
Oil Cooler (Concentric)
Radiator Flow Type Crossflow
Tank Material Plastic
Core Material Aluminum
Last edited by oldsguybry; August 3rd, 2016 at 03:21 AM.
August 3rd, 2016, 05:07 AM
#205
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Location: Palm Bay, FL
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Aluminum radiators are completely different than the old copper/brass that came in the cars. And, sorry but this is a pet peeve of mine....rows man, rows....not cores. Each radiator has a single core with a certain number of rows of pipes going from tank to tank be it 1, 2, 3, or 4.
Copper/brass radiators have small pipes between the tanks where aluminum ones generally have wider pipes, hence the lower number of rows generally seen with aluminum.
Usually a 2 row aluminum will cool comparably to a 4 row copper/brass. depending on the width of the piping between the tanks and the fin-per-inch count.
Copper/brass radiators have small pipes between the tanks where aluminum ones generally have wider pipes, hence the lower number of rows generally seen with aluminum.
Usually a 2 row aluminum will cool comparably to a 4 row copper/brass. depending on the width of the piping between the tanks and the fin-per-inch count.
August 3rd, 2016, 05:12 AM
#206
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Yes, if possible, though a 3-row was probably standard if the car didn't come with A/C.
Because the radiators they are listing have aluminum cores, and tubes that are very different in dimensions than the originals - just look at the pictures.
A 2-row aluminum radiator from this series should be equivalent to an original 4-row copper radiator.
That's because these are the radiators that are generally referenced as superseding the GM part numbers for your car.
They may or may not be exactly right, as the supercession process always overlooks some small (or, occasionally, large) details.
The Spectra CU165 is probably a good radiator for your car, though you may be able to find it cheaper if you keep an eye out for sales (I could swear it was $100 cheaper a year ago).
- Eric
Because the radiators they are listing have aluminum cores, and tubes that are very different in dimensions than the originals - just look at the pictures.
A 2-row aluminum radiator from this series should be equivalent to an original 4-row copper radiator.
They may or may not be exactly right, as the supercession process always overlooks some small (or, occasionally, large) details.
The Spectra CU165 is probably a good radiator for your car, though you may be able to find it cheaper if you keep an eye out for sales (I could swear it was $100 cheaper a year ago).
- Eric
August 3rd, 2016, 07:04 AM
#207
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Aluminum radiators are completely different than the old copper/brass that came in the cars. And, sorry but this is a pet peeve of mine....rows man, rows....not cores. Each radiator has a single core with a certain number of rows of pipes going from tank to tank be it 1, 2, 3, or 4.
Copper/brass radiators have small pipes between the tanks where aluminum ones generally have wider pipes, hence the lower number of rows generally seen with aluminum.
Usually a 2 row aluminum will cool comparably to a 4 row copper/brass. depending on the width of the piping between the tanks and the fin-per-inch count.
Copper/brass radiators have small pipes between the tanks where aluminum ones generally have wider pipes, hence the lower number of rows generally seen with aluminum.
Usually a 2 row aluminum will cool comparably to a 4 row copper/brass. depending on the width of the piping between the tanks and the fin-per-inch count.
..... Thanks for the info on the radiators , I didn't know specifics on them except that I know that aluminum was cooler .
August 3rd, 2016, 07:05 AM
#208
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Yes, if possible, though a 3-row was probably standard if the car didn't come with A/C.
Because the radiators they are listing have aluminum cores, and tubes that are very different in dimensions than the originals - just look at the pictures.
A 2-row aluminum radiator from this series should be equivalent to an original 4-row copper radiator.
That's because these are the radiators that are generally referenced as superseding the GM part numbers for your car.
They may or may not be exactly right, as the supercession process always overlooks some small (or, occasionally, large) details.
The Spectra CU165 is probably a good radiator for your car, though you may be able to find it cheaper if you keep an eye out for sales (I could swear it was $100 cheaper a year ago).
- Eric
Because the radiators they are listing have aluminum cores, and tubes that are very different in dimensions than the originals - just look at the pictures.
A 2-row aluminum radiator from this series should be equivalent to an original 4-row copper radiator.
That's because these are the radiators that are generally referenced as superseding the GM part numbers for your car.
They may or may not be exactly right, as the supercession process always overlooks some small (or, occasionally, large) details.
The Spectra CU165 is probably a good radiator for your car, though you may be able to find it cheaper if you keep an eye out for sales (I could swear it was $100 cheaper a year ago).
- Eric
August 3rd, 2016, 07:07 AM
#209
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I'm now trying to fix the faulty gold plated monster cable for the stereo system that one side keep cutting in and out . I may need to make a trip to radio shack .
Got it . I used another gold plated RCA cable end from another set of cables I forgot I had . The stereo is back to cranking again .
Got it . I used another gold plated RCA cable end from another set of cables I forgot I had . The stereo is back to cranking again .
Last edited by oldsguybry; August 3rd, 2016 at 07:52 AM.
August 5th, 2016, 10:41 PM
#211
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I bought the Spectra CU165 radiator today , and it should be here in about a week . The car is running pretty good except for the bog on the carb mainly when the engine is cold . It's only noticeable when your hitting the gas light . I was watching a video on how to rebuild the Rochester Quadrajet carb , but with the rig up on the front I may just want to find another one online or something . I would also like to find a decent rear bumper for the car that doesn't have any peeling , dents or rust on it .
August 6th, 2016, 04:38 AM
#212
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Your carb probably needs a rebuild, just due to age and sitting.
Not a hard job, as long as you've got a clean place to work without interruption.
However, note that some bogging when cold is completely normal for a carbureted car.
- Eric
Not a hard job, as long as you've got a clean place to work without interruption.
However, note that some bogging when cold is completely normal for a carbureted car.
- Eric
August 7th, 2016, 05:17 AM
#216
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Yes , you are correct . I already had a journey to hell experience when the other motor was in here , and this one has a whole lot more power . 
Where can I get one , and what exactly are they called ? I figure Year One or Rock Auto probably has them .
Where can I get one , and what exactly are they called ? I figure Year One or Rock Auto probably has them .
August 7th, 2016, 05:48 AM
#217
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Location: Palm Bay, FL
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Don't worry about the header on the page. This is the correct bushing.
https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964...l-camino/cd102
https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964...l-camino/cd102
August 7th, 2016, 06:39 AM
#218
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Don't worry about the header on the page. This is the correct bushing.
https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964...l-camino/cd102
https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964...l-camino/cd102
August 7th, 2016, 07:08 AM
#219
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I bought the grommet from YearOne . I will need to cancel my credit card after they charge me & ship it so I don't get ripped off . Some bastard in China tried to charge $299.86 on my other card .
I since then cancelled all my cards and got new ones , this is the only one left to do . I have fraud protection on that card so I didn't have to pay it .
I since then cancelled all my cards and got new ones , this is the only one left to do . I have fraud protection on that card so I didn't have to pay it .
August 8th, 2016, 08:14 AM
#222
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
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You are going to die.
Get some &*%# jackstands. Seriously.
That's the low pressure fitting.
You can get a replacement for that right-angle bit at NAPA for a couple of bucks, which should solve your problem.
And get some power steering return hose while you're at it - that piece of hose looks like a piece of...
- Eric
Get some &*%# jackstands. Seriously.
You can get a replacement for that right-angle bit at NAPA for a couple of bucks, which should solve your problem.
And get some power steering return hose while you're at it - that piece of hose looks like a piece of...
- Eric
August 8th, 2016, 08:41 AM
#223
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I'm just stirring the pot , I forgot my hydraulic jack that day . I was only lifting the body about 6 inches to get better clearance to remove the inner tie rod .
I believe that hose is fairly new , it's just dirty . I replaced it about 3yrs ago when I was trouble shooting the front end noise . I will look at it again and of course get ANOTHER new fitting / metal hose end .
I forgot my hydraulic jack that day . I was only lifting the body about 6 inches to get better clearance to remove the inner tie rod .I believe that hose is fairly new , it's just dirty . I replaced it about 3yrs ago when I was trouble shooting the front end noise . I will look at it again and of course get ANOTHER new fitting / metal hose end .
August 8th, 2016, 08:46 AM
#224
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I'm also going to have to drop the tank and replace the sender I believe . The gas gauge is stuck well above full . This has been going on for awhile now , and I was wondering if the float is part of this unit ? I hope this ends soon so I can get back to the body work . I'm going to have to do some under body work when I drop the tank now .
August 8th, 2016, 11:03 AM
#225
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August 8th, 2016, 11:18 AM
#226
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Looks like 110165 or 130161 .
August 8th, 2016, 05:23 PM
#227
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http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....nid=381&jpid=0
What are the thoughts on this one? After watching the video it sounds like it could be a quality radiator. I am on an extremely tight budget so need to shave dollars but don't want to waste money on something that won't do the job at all.
What are the thoughts on this one? After watching the video it sounds like it could be a quality radiator. I am on an extremely tight budget so need to shave dollars but don't want to waste money on something that won't do the job at all.
August 8th, 2016, 08:27 PM
#228
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http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....nid=381&jpid=0
What are the thoughts on this one? After watching the video it sounds like it could be a quality radiator. I am on an extremely tight budget so need to shave dollars but don't want to waste money on something that won't do the job at all.
What are the thoughts on this one? After watching the video it sounds like it could be a quality radiator. I am on an extremely tight budget so need to shave dollars but don't want to waste money on something that won't do the job at all.
August 9th, 2016, 06:40 AM
#229
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I managed to find this on google LOL.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...radiators.html
Sounds like it should do me just fine.
Last edited by CJG; August 9th, 2016 at 06:56 AM.
August 9th, 2016, 08:12 AM
#231
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August 13th, 2016, 09:15 PM
#233
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The bushing for the throttle cable I ordered from YearOne is not going to work with this carb . See pictures below ....
Here's what I received ....
Here's the linkage with the cable and retaining ring on it ....
Here's a picture with the cable and retaining ring off . There's no way the white plastic bushing will fit in between the two pieces of metal to slide on there . It has two small of an ID to fit over the fat part that the eyelet would slide over . It also sticks out to far to put the retaining ring back on if it did . I'm not quite sure what the cotter pin would be for either . This is obviously for a different set up ....
Well , at least I got the radiator installed . The rubber saddles had to be removed or it wasn't going to fit . I don't even think there would be any room to put anything else in there , It's a pretty tight fit . I even got the top plate on once I removed the rubber saddles out of there too ....
Here's what I received ....
Here's the linkage with the cable and retaining ring on it ....
Here's a picture with the cable and retaining ring off . There's no way the white plastic bushing will fit in between the two pieces of metal to slide on there . It has two small of an ID to fit over the fat part that the eyelet would slide over . It also sticks out to far to put the retaining ring back on if it did . I'm not quite sure what the cotter pin would be for either . This is obviously for a different set up ....
Well , at least I got the radiator installed . The rubber saddles had to be removed or it wasn't going to fit . I don't even think there would be any room to put anything else in there , It's a pretty tight fit . I even got the top plate on once I removed the rubber saddles out of there too ....
August 13th, 2016, 09:28 PM
#234
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It looks like I would have to get wider saddle holders welded on there in order to fit a rubber saddle that would accommodate this radiator . I also looked at the carb on the other motor , and the metal linkage is different from this one . I would swap it out , but it looks to be riveted on .
Last edited by oldsguybry; August 13th, 2016 at 09:31 PM.
August 14th, 2016, 01:18 AM
#236
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Well , at least I got the radiator installed . The rubber saddles had to be removed or it wasn't going to fit . I don't even think there would be any room to put anything else in there , It's a pretty tight fit . I even got the top plate on once I removed the rubber saddles out of there too
August 14th, 2016, 06:43 AM
#237
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Here's the throttle rod to linkage grommet I think I need from SuperCars Unlimited . I happened to stumble across this using the description of the part per YearOne ....
Item 58-036
Item 58-036
August 14th, 2016, 07:13 AM
#239
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Lets see .... SuperCars Unlimited , Throttle rod to linkage grommet , Item 58-036 . I would of found this myself if I knew what it was called . Randy was kind enough to lead me in the right direction with the link on the Yearone page . With THAT I could find the actual one I needed . Since I have a 72CS with a 68 Toro motor in it , I can see where the mix up happened . No big deal , the part was only $5 , I'll get the correct one eventually . It was my bad for not taking the description he gave me and searching it a little to make sure .
