OK....the picture is not what the description says it is.....ugh.

Core (in) 28-1/4 x 16-7/8 x 2-1/2
Inlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Outlet Header 18-5/8 x 3-1/2
Inlet 1-9/16
Outlet 1-9/16
Mount Type Saddle Mount
Core Rows 2
Transmission Oil Cooler Yes
Engine Oil Cooler No
Oil Cooler (Concentric)
Radiator Flow Type Crossflow
Tank Material Plastic
Core Material Aluminum

 

I also missed the blue light special at K-Mart . No cheap plastic junk from China for me this time around . Wait , back then it was made in Japan , not China ..... Ahhhh , the memories . Actually toward the beginning of this thread , if you recall , my mom was quite ill from her Chemotherapy , and I was a bit worried about that . Along with the fact that I had a lot of junk in her garage / basement that I would have to deal with if something happened to her . In other words , I would have to clear her house out because the bank would of got her house . I'm sure glad I did this motor swap now with how long it took to get the car mobile . I wouldn't of had time to do all of this under those circumstances . This is why I threw this motor in my car before painting it , getting things I need , or planning ahead ( I never do anyhow ) . Otherwise I would of had a radiator , tranny , and posi rear end before I started this .

 

Who's Steve ? I just noticed this now . I think I meant Randy . Sorry Randy .

 

I will have to search some of these sites to find what I need maybe . So I should get a 4-core ? Why the hell are they listing 2-core radiators here anyhow ? I entered that I have a 72CS with a 7.5L and I get the same page you listed

 

Aluminum radiators are completely different than the old copper/brass that came in the cars. And, sorry but this is a pet peeve of mine....rows man, rows....not cores. Each radiator has a single core with a certain number of rows of pipes going from tank to tank be it 1, 2, 3, or 4.
Copper/brass radiators have small pipes between the tanks where aluminum ones generally have wider pipes, hence the lower number of rows generally seen with aluminum.
Usually a 2 row aluminum will cool comparably to a 4 row copper/brass. depending on the width of the piping between the tanks and the fin-per-inch count.

 

Yes, if possible, though a 3-row was probably standard if the car didn't come with A/C.



Because the radiators they are listing have aluminum cores, and tubes that are very different in dimensions than the originals - just look at the pictures.
A 2-row aluminum radiator from this series should be equivalent to an original 4-row copper radiator.



That's because these are the radiators that are generally referenced as superseding the GM part numbers for your car.

They may or may not be exactly right, as the supercession process always overlooks some small (or, occasionally, large) details.


The Spectra CU165 is probably a good radiator for your car, though you may be able to find it cheaper if you keep an eye out for sales (I could swear it was $100 cheaper a year ago).


- Eric

 

I meant rows ..... Thanks for the info on the radiators , I didn't know specifics on them except that I know that aluminum was cooler .

 

Thank you for this information .

 

I'm now trying to fix the faulty gold plated monster cable for the stereo system that one side keep cutting in and out . I may need to make a trip to radio shack .

Got it . I used another gold plated RCA cable end from another set of cables I forgot I had . The stereo is back to cranking again .

 

You can buy excellent coax and RCA cable ends from Parts Express or Mouser and solder up your own custom cables better and cheaper than Monster.

- Eric

 

I bought the Spectra CU165 radiator today , and it should be here in about a week . The car is running pretty good except for the bog on the carb mainly when the engine is cold . It's only noticeable when your hitting the gas light . I was watching a video on how to rebuild the Rochester Quadrajet carb , but with the rig up on the front I may just want to find another one online or something . I would also like to find a decent rear bumper for the car that doesn't have any peeling , dents or rust on it .

 

Your carb probably needs a rebuild, just due to age and sitting.
Not a hard job, as long as you've got a clean place to work without interruption.

However, note that some bogging when cold is completely normal for a carbureted car.

- Eric

 

I'll have to get an after market air cleaner I guess . The Toro one won't fit because of this bracket that holds the throttle cable in place ....

 

Or get a 4bbl air cleaner from someone here.

- Eric

 

You need to get a bushing in that throttle cable eyelet.

 

Yes , you are correct . I already had a journey to hell experience when the other motor was in here , and this one has a whole lot more power . Where can I get one , and what exactly are they called ? I figure Year One or Rock Auto probably has them .

 

Don't worry about the header on the page. This is the correct bushing.

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964...l-camino/cd102

 

Thank you sir . I wasn't exactly sure what was missing on the eyelet / linkage , but now it makes sense .

 

I bought the grommet from YearOne . I will need to cancel my credit card after they charge me & ship it so I don't get ripped off . Some bastard in China tried to charge $299.86 on my other card . I since then cancelled all my cards and got new ones , this is the only one left to do . I have fraud protection on that card so I didn't have to pay it .

 

Yikes.

 

More safe equipment ....



I thought I solved this problem . This line keeps leaking via where the tube seals on the fitting .....

 

You are going to die.

Get some &*%# jackstands. Seriously.



That's the low pressure fitting.

You can get a replacement for that right-angle bit at NAPA for a couple of bucks, which should solve your problem.

And get some power steering return hose while you're at it - that piece of hose looks like a piece of...

- Eric

 

I'm just stirring the pot , I forgot my hydraulic jack that day . I was only lifting the body about 6 inches to get better clearance to remove the inner tie rod .





I believe that hose is fairly new , it's just dirty . I replaced it about 3yrs ago when I was trouble shooting the front end noise . I will look at it again and of course get ANOTHER new fitting / metal hose end .

 

I'm also going to have to drop the tank and replace the sender I believe . The gas gauge is stuck well above full . This has been going on for awhile now , and I was wondering if the float is part of this unit ? I hope this ends soon so I can get back to the body work . I'm going to have to do some under body work when I drop the tank now .

 

https://www.radiator.com/Shop

Anyone ever tried this site?

 

Cool , it's not that much more then what I bought , probably better too .

Looks like 110165 or 130161 .

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....nid=381&jpid=0

What are the thoughts on this one? After watching the video it sounds like it could be a quality radiator. I am on an extremely tight budget so need to shave dollars but don't want to waste money on something that won't do the job at all.

 

Is that an aluminum one ? I didn't really see specifics on this particular radiator , but I bought mine from Rock Auto and the shipping was only like $17 . I got the CU165 2 row aluminum core .

 

Not sure, waiting for them to respond to my email. But its only $85 lol!

I managed to find this on google LOL.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...radiators.html


Sounds like it should do me just fine.

 

Holy crap only $85 ? I need to shop with you from now on lol

 

LOL! Every once in awhile I stumble on a deal. Now, of course, I havent bought it yet, it very well could be too good to be true!

 

Its ordered. Ill let you know what I get LOL!

 

The bushing for the throttle cable I ordered from YearOne is not going to work with this carb . See pictures below ....

Here's what I received ....



Here's the linkage with the cable and retaining ring on it ....



Here's a picture with the cable and retaining ring off . There's no way the white plastic bushing will fit in between the two pieces of metal to slide on there . It has two small of an ID to fit over the fat part that the eyelet would slide over . It also sticks out to far to put the retaining ring back on if it did . I'm not quite sure what the cotter pin would be for either . This is obviously for a different set up ....



Well , at least I got the radiator installed . The rubber saddles had to be removed or it wasn't going to fit . I don't even think there would be any room to put anything else in there , It's a pretty tight fit . I even got the top plate on once I removed the rubber saddles out of there too ....

 

It looks like I would have to get wider saddle holders welded on there in order to fit a rubber saddle that would accommodate this radiator . I also looked at the carb on the other motor , and the metal linkage is different from this one . I would swap it out , but it looks to be riveted on .

 

I also have to replace a tie rod , upper ball joint , sway bar link , and the sway bar bushings .

 

My guess would be that the tanks are the same size as an original 4 row and you had a 3 row. The saddles on the bottom and the top plate are wider for the 4 row and that's why the rubber wouldn't fit.

 

Here's the throttle rod to linkage grommet I think I need from SuperCars Unlimited . I happened to stumble across this using the description of the part per YearOne ....



Item 58-036

 

Y'know...

... Including a part number, or linking to the actual part listing, might help the people you are asking to know which part you are talking about.

- Eric

 

Y'know , it looks like it's all there to me . Lets see .... SuperCars Unlimited , Throttle rod to linkage grommet , Item 58-036 . I would of found this myself if I knew what it was called . Randy was kind enough to lead me in the right direction with the link on the Yearone page . With THAT I could find the actual one I needed . Since I have a 72CS with a 68 Toro motor in it , I can see where the mix up happened . No big deal , the part was only $5 , I'll get the correct one eventually . It was my bad for not taking the description he gave me and searching it a little to make sure .

 

Oh, crap.

I didn't see the item number sandwiched between the big picture and small picture.

Sorry.

- Eric