I have a Proform cam degreeing kit and the degree wheel hole diameter for the crank bolt is 1.00". However, an Olds balancer bolt is 3/4"-16. Has anyone done something to get the degree wheel centered?

Also, if the bolt holding the degree wheel on is used to turn the engine both ways, it seems to want to come loose when turning the engine counterclockwise. How is this avoided?

Not centered


I really wanna get this cam position checked, verified and move on with assembly of the 455.
Any suggestions? Centering washer/reducer?
Since this is the first time I am doing this myself, I just want to make this as accurate as possible and not have the damned thing slip when turning the engine.

 

I use a COMP Cams 4799 crankshaft socket to hold the 1" degree wheel.

COMP Cams Crankshaft Sockets 4799CPG

 

I have that socket. Not seeing how that would work. I have been known to be a little dense tho

 

Is this not what you're trying to do?

 

Omg, I am so facking retahded. Yes. We can close this thread now LOL

 

Whatever it was I know I've tried to assemble something & stared at my incompetence more than once.

 

I hadn’t looked at the socket in a while and forgot that it had the provision for the wheel.🤪If I had just thought about what v8al said, the lightbulb would have illuminated above my head. Gonna go out there right now and get it done. Thx Norm and v8al!

 

Got it.

 

Now it seems that I need a part that is either missing in the kit or I need a short adjustable pushrod.






Ignore the hair on the deck LOL
I think I need a short pushrod

 

Just do it off the lifter. That way you’re not relying on the rocker ratio to be absolutely correct to validate your numbers.

 

That's what I'm doing as indicated in the second pic except that there is no rod in the kit to use to actuate the dial indicator. There is some sort of rod that I can't see how it would be used.


An actual pushrod is too long even with the assembly adjusted all the way up. It's like there is something missing that goes on that rod shown above on the the threaded end that is missing in the kit.

 

You need a magnetic base for your dial indicator which will provide you with more flexibility and then you can indicate off the lifter as noted above in post #10.

 

Unscrew the rounded tip on the end of your indicator and that longer rod will thread onto the indicator in place of the stubby tip.

 

Holy hell, thanks again Ken. I knew I should have my reading glasses on when I try to look closely at this stuff.
I'll finish the degree-ing exercise later today after I get done mowing, edging, whacking and blowing.
Wait a sec... that sounds a little wrong...

 

And again, the plot thickens. The ball end on the dial indicator shaft unscrewed fine. However, the threads on the rod are different than the threads on the dial indicator shaft.🙄


I guess I am just not meant to do this LOL
Maybe just shove it in there and go for it.

 

Your pistons have a interesting pattern milled into them, what is the theory behind the design? Any time you don't perform a precision measurement routinely it can be a little frustrating until you have the right set up.

 

To what pattern are you referring? The machine tool marks in the dish? Or the shape of the dish?

 

That’s my piston design from Racetec. I’ve revised it again recently as well.

 

The tool marks are smooth and I love the piston design. And Mark did a great job getting it to pretty much zero deck. This engine is going to be a great street bruiser.

 

Dang, that's no right at all. Where did you get that indicator kit? Maybe they can send you the correct part?

 

Right? I got this Proform kit from Summit. I may call them and try to get some sort of relief here. Could be that this particular kit has the wrong rod in it

 

The D shape I'm familiar with the tooling marks not so much.

 

The tooling marks are visual only, they are smooth to the touch, meaning, the actual features are very minimal.