Chuck if you don't go with a spool you can set up your 12 bolt to work, I redid mine basically like Tom's Differentials video it works fantastic. However alot of guys live with the spool on the street. I've got a 2 ton tuna boat as well, you gotta love the all the furniture ! Good luck, lots of good advice in the thread and congrats on the 10's

 

Another option is a mini spool

 

Starting to accumulate some acorns for the winter

 

Which ARB is that?

 

BMRsb035h, bolt on between the axle tubes and frame. Just thinking, I may as well weld the axle tubes while I’m in the area

 

Cool beans, heading in the right direction. The ARB will make a difference.

 

Installed my spool, 33 spline axles, upper c arms, frame braces, more..c clip eliminators. Not sure if I will replace the lower control arms or just the bushings. Installed the arb, it’s nice but not sure if I’ll replace the links with adjustables

 

Coming along..

 

Did you weigh all that stuff you added?

 

I did not, should have I and subtracted what I removed?

 

just wondering want it all adds to the car.

 

As other said let us know how it ran after sort out the problems and resolve it.

 

Finally got to the dyno yesterday. I’m pretty happy considering the cam (pretty small), budget so far and my cobbled carb/junk show.
I was way off on my jetting, first quick, low rpm pull was 558hp with 10.1 afr!! I wasn’t surprised as I was chasing a lean condition on my last run and overkilled it, (however got my 10-go figure..)
Dyno/engine builder is super knowledgeable and a major player in the racing community around here (retired….!? Always swamped yet retired).
However, hasn’t dynoed many olds so he wouldn’t start the load below 3000 rpm. I asked about it a couple of times and he didn’t see the point. I didn’t want to argue as he’s in the middle of an appendicitis complete with a hospital wrist band and pills. Waiting for a bed, was supposed to be in after the session yesterday.
My track-*** seat dyno is correct, it’s all done in the 5600 range and I go through the traps at 6000.
I went to the dyno with an hei locked out. We ended at 32-33 degrees. I have a unilite and programmable al-2 in the car, but short notice didn’t have time to set that up. Maybe in the car I should pull a couple degrees out above 4000?

Retard the cam 2-4 degrees?

One of the purposes of this was to pick a converter as mine has a low stall, likely 2200. I just got a playback tach so I’m looking forward to pin pointing that. If I get a 3000 stall and I’m done around 5600… not a big window.
I need new slicks this year, currently have 28 10.5 mt bias. Maybe 29-30 radials, see what the playback tach says and then decide on converter.
I will go a little leaner on jets as yesterday was really good air.
Interested in your thoughts and opinions, thanks!

 

Heres your information:

595 HP @ 3600 pounds runs 129 MPH in sea level conditions
1320 / 129 = 10.23 ET
So this is the potential 10.23 @ 129 MPH in sea level conditions, 0 DA if the dyno data is correct.

You need a pro built Turbo 400, that means someone who understands drag racing a Turbo 400 at a Stock Eliminator level. You need a light weight case 8 inch converter built by someone who understands Stock eliminator racing, this is called a Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac 8 inch converter, as all three are low RPM engines. A 3.90-4.10 gear with a 30 x 9 CO7 radial Hoosier slick. A aluminum drive shaft would be nice.

At this point you can do better than this formula if the car works: 1320/129=10.23 by a tenth, (10.13) if run in sea level conditions. A good leaving 10.1 -10.2 car has a 1.29-1.32 60 foot.

This above is how you go fast. Theres other variants in the drive line you could make to go even quicker, but the above is the simple way.

 

Thanks for the info vortec!

 

These?

 

I just realized that's c06, you said c07

 

18210c07

 

I was going to say, not sure if I should have the black wall out or rwl, but it’s rwl on both sides..
these radials need tube’s usually?

 

No tubes, no rim screws. Mount with the serial numbers facing the same, both left or both right. This gives best results. They can be rotated.

 

Chuck, is that dyno sheet for your BTR 495 engine (post #336) with the hyd roller cam (post #351)??

 

BTR short block, used but not installed Rocket Racing heads (local kijiji) and that cam .. yes

 

Finally installed the hoosiers, what do you recommend for front runners? Not seeing many options for hoosier radials.
my gut says not to install bias fronts with a radial slick..??

 

x

 

Looks nice. Are you to the track Sunday with the Olds club?

I’ll be there

 

Dale, I hope so but probably going to a hockey tournament for my son

 

I never had a problem running bias front with a radial slick at the track. The other way around is kind of scary.

 

I never did either at the track, and really never did on the street mixing and matching regular radials and bias tires. I would guess you can't mix them might be a dishonest tire sales trick from the old days, to sell more tires. Just a guess.

 

Mixing bias and radials can lead to unexpected results. It comes down to application and use.

 

Don't people run regular radials up front with bias slicks all the time? Asking for a friend

 

I see a lot of guys doing that. I used to do that in the 90's but found the car to be less stable running as slow as low 12, anything faster was dicey.

 

I am happy with that anti-roll bar, makes a big difference.
I had a 19 psi in my new Hoosier slick radial.



I only made two passes, one almost full, because I heard a noise in the rear end one pass first gear only.
Popped a little wheelie, and that is with current stall. Have a look if I can attach it properly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ink...usp=drive_link
There’s a dip at 1700 but I don’t feel it.
My off idle hesitation is gone now, feels great, seamless. My wideband agrees.

 

Cool chuck maybe next time you can report back with a full pass. Looking good.

 

Is this picture @ St. Thomas Dragway? Do you ever make it over to GBM (Grand Bend)?

 

Nice wheels up leave!

 

Cool license plate. Nice launch.

 

Hotrod442- yes that was at St. Thomas. I like that track, it's just a little further drive that hurts. I have not been to GB but I love to check it out one day..
Thanks Bernhard and 442man$!!

 

Chuck, what did you run?

 

We run the points series at GBM, so we are there every weekend that is a points weekend (and most of the other events as well) if you do happen to make it over,..........make sure to drop by our pit area to say high (we have a permanent pit site along the fence near the finish line reader boards)

 

This was last time out. Got some decent info from my playback tach this time.
Had the converter loosened a little that turned out to be a lot. It's too loose now but my 60' got better than with the tight converter.
Horribly loose, flashes at 48-4900 and drops only 500 into the next gear, going through the traps at 5950rpm.
According to my dyno sheet, max torque is at 4100 and max hp is at 5600.
Also Interested in what calculators you guys are using for converter slippage.
3.73 rear, th400, 18210 c07 Hoosier radial slick (29.5 dia on website), and 5950rpm. I'm getting about 14% slippage
I'd love to order up a ptc or other quality converter that you guys have recommended but I'm going to have to rob a few more liquor stores this winter to make that happen.
Still interested in what input or thoughts you guys have, thanks