Hi, I have a 65 Cutlass with original target red paint, I have to replace a fender from a collision, will a body shop be able to match the original lacquer paint with a base coat clear coat paint or should I try to find someone to paint it with a lacquer? Thank you!

 

Nothing will look the ame as the original lacquer paint so you will need to find a shop that is willing to use laquer if they know how to shoot it.

Finding a supplier may be tough but I believe Bill Hirsch may still sell it... do a google search for automotive laquer paint and you should fin one.

 

no real trick to shooting technique it is a premier back yard medium in that you shoot multiple coats with color sanding in between coats to achieve the finish desired . however epa has a problem with it and therefor licensed shops do not want the risk.
If you obtain some and the right thinner it is easy for a novice to use, very forgiving in that you can sand and buff to achieve a very respectable finish without the extra step of clear coat

just wanted to update the fact that i did find lacquer at an auto paint dist. which i will be using to paint the interior trim on the wagon for the flat oem type finish . guess its just not being carried by my normal ppg shop

 

I build guitars and still do acrylic and nitro lacquer. I also do clear coats. Did the factory not use clear?

Also, does anybody shoot that duplicolor stuff?

 

clean area fuly first for shooting with proper ventilation also and no dust if you can swing it and water down the floor also and do not splash it onto your surface. 2. use medium wet coats 4 to 5 usually but definitely 2 past complete coverage of your surface and 600 wet before shooting the first coat for good prep. cleaning tacking is the usual bs beforehand and do not do it on a high humidity day to avoid blushing or discoloring of your paint and usually you need to color sand with 1200 to 1500 afterwards and buff this paint is the easiest for using purposes. I used urethanes for better hold out but i did it in a booth also. by the way 7-10 minutes between coats for flash time also on lacquer and use medium thinner and not the cheap stuff either. 65 to 80 degree temps if cooler go dryer coats and more flash time and i mean maybe 60 degrees at the lowest.

 

Factory did not use clear for lacquer, nor for acrylic enamel I don't think.

 

Excellent. I am here to learn. Thanks.

 

I had a '68 International with original paint. About two years ago I had three dents pulled and the areas repainted. The shop said they used the same paint that they always use on any two stage respray however they didn't use the clear top coat. When the base only was applied it at first didn't have the right sheen however after some wet sanding and some polishing it matched perfectly. Absolutely perfect in color, shine and texture. Only under certain light and angles could you faintly see the blending of the two paints. Now granted, the color was beige and was very forgiving but still, I was very pleased with the results.

Chris

 

My biggest concern would be, what is the age of the paint on the car? Is it original ? Is it slightly faded? Panel painting an old red and expecting it to match can be a challenge. You could take the lacquer, paint the fender, blend into the door, and use lacquer clear over the two panels. That can be wet sanded flat and buffed to look very flat. The reason for the clear would be to protect the blend edge on the door from UV breakdown. Mils are so thin on the blend edge, that in a short amount of time, you will be able to see it fading or "walking" back...u won't be too happy then.