dlmsavings1

Hello Olds Fans
I'm restoring a 64 cutlass and would appreciate comments on good user friendly original color match paint type/brand (and primer). Car has been repainted so no telling what is on it now.
Many thanks.

joe_padavano

The only "user friendly" auto paint was lacquer, which is unavailable in most locations these days due to emissions requirements. Since you don't know what paint was used in the last repaint, you have a bit of a problem. If it was low-grade enamel, it may wrinkle and lift with some solvents sprayed over it. Your best bet is to sand down to at least the original paint before refinishing.

Any modern car paint requires skill and practice to apply properly. You need to follow the mixing instructions EXACTLY, and pay attention to temperature and humidity. You also need to pay attention to the gun being used, fluid cap, and pressure/volume from the compressor. I encourage you to learn and practice, but don't expect to have show-quality results your first time out. Solid colors are much easier to spray than metallics, since you don't need to worry about" tiger stripes" from subsequent passes of the gun. Consider taking an auto body refinishing course at your local vocational high school or community college. This will provide access to the proper tools and instruction.

tecar442

I took auto body courses several times evenings and summers. In the summer we were allowed to leave our projects in the shop between classes. The community college had all the special tools. Nail gun, welder, paint guns, DA's, etc., and a paint booth. After the instructor assisted and directed me how to repair and prepare my project for paint, he helped set up the paint gun and booth. Great fun. We painted my old Blazer with white enamel. There were a few minor sags but it looked pretty good, definitely not show quality but I was pleased and proud. It took a while but I learned a lot. Don't get in a hurry to finish your project. Do each step the right way. You'll be happier in the end. The training will provide you with skills you'll always use. Experience will make each future project a little better.

m371961

All of the above, and go to autobody101.com
Lots of paint choices and types, you get what you pay for. Also you may be surprised by what you find when you start sanding.

coppercutlass

Single stage paint will be the easiest to shoot but buy books, buy old junk fenders cut em weld em body fill em smooth em out prime em and paint em to practice. I did a votech program in high school but I learned hands on in the shops.

Tecar442 you mentioned blazer and I couldn't resist. I did this blazer for my fiancé 4 years back for under 2k we hung new quarters, used non rusty doors and china fenders. It's starting to show it's age but it came out awesome for painting it in an open shop no booth with single stage. The wheel lip area looks wavy but it's the contours reflection that's the only thing that bugs me about this picture lol.

m371961

Looks nice. What brand SS, and did you add any clear in the final coat?

coppercutlass

No clear added. I bought the eastwood brand single stage urethane paint.

oldstata

The single stage paint is friendly but does not last long I've used on two different cars the top faded on both with in five years unless covered and waxed often could of been the brand or location that the car was at. In my experience paint was easy to lay down but I had trouble with clears coats had a few runs but a old friend showed me a trick of cutting the run out with a razer blade and buff it in I could still see it but was better

coppercutlass

It comes down to the uv. Protection in the paint. This truck sits outside rain or shine and we drive it in the snow. I give it a quick buff every spring and it looks like it did 4 years ago. Cheaper paints have less uv protection ppg and dupont both carry single stage urethanes . There are also cheaper clears thinner high solids, fast cure. We use a 15 minute air dry clear at the shop !!!!! Lol. It all comes down to the pocket book and prefrence.

ziff396

I learned a lot on autobody101 and I am a member. Tons of information, just like this forum, and a lot of helpful people. Len is a really nice person to deal with, and helps out a lot! They have videos etc on the painting process, along with deals on materials, tools, and information about booths.
It took me 2 try's but this is what I ended up with. I used PPG base clear. It is base clear metallic gold. And the stripes are painted on. The reason I had to re do it was that my gun was not 90 degrees to the surface on top, (I am only 5'8") and like Joe said ,I had tiger stripes on the roof and a few other places. Metallic is tough when new to the game Like I am. Anyways, it is like glass now. Trial and error. I used a Devillbiss Plus gun that puts out a large pattern and a lot of paint. No runs in the whole project. 3 coats of clear Sanded with an AirVantage 3/32 throw DA wet with 1000, 2000, then 3000 wet. What a nice piece. I will never hand sand again! It actually shined before I hit it with the wheel, which was a breeze after that.
I stripped the car first to bare metal, repaired, and shot epoxy primer before finishing, then filler primer, and guide coat, sanding with a long block, before final priming, sanding, and then paint. Lots left out, but it is a process and takes a lot of time. Besides the cost of paint, labor, materials, and profit, That is why body shops are expensive. Do it yourself without that cost, and some practice, It will turn out great!

ziff396

I am not a paint man by trade like you. Just an a guy that turned one out nice. Any tweeking or suggestions to my post would be just another learning experience.

ent72olds

Biggest reason SS paint will fade, is due to the fact it has been cut and buffed. As SS cures, the resin and UV screeners rise to the surface giving it the hardness and protection. When sanded and polished, you remove mils of the "protection" if you will. There is a difference between cheap stuff and good stuff. The good stuff will last longer obviously...

coppercutlass

Ziff car looks great. You are proof anyone willing to learn can do it right. Body work is like a taboo in the car hobby . It's seems people are afraid of a little trial and error.

oldstata

200 buck paint job
E7696FBE-B0C5-4E9C-BC86-0D3D30A675D6-4894-000068095023B5D8.jpg

Sorry not the best pic but cars is long gone
It was cheap most likely the cause of the fading but I am no painter

Before
865FFFBF-92BA-459D-A6A1-278188986CC9-4941-00006814C9FD9D5F.jpg

Railguy

I don't mean to steal the thread but what's the easiest stone chip fix?
railguy

coppercutlass

Probably better than earl schieb

nsnarsk65cutlass

I'm not a painter by any means ,i painted my 68 malibu wagon daily driver 11 years ago with dupont centari single stage in my garage, i wet sanded out the orange peel on the sides ,it sits outside never garaged and the oxidization is no different on the sides as on the top.I shot it with a 59 dollar harbor freight hlvp siphon gun i bought in '95.Still to this day not sure if i what to give it ago again.

dlmsavings1

Wow, what great information from you all. Thanks so much, I really appreciate the feedback. I have painted a truck, looked OK, but this Cutalss will attract many more critics so I want to prep and do my best. Seems a high quality Urethane may be the way to go.First stop, Autobody101, then it is time to sand away a few years and at least one repaint!

ziff396

Like here, search the forums and whatever you need to know will have probably already been asked. If not, just ask away. Friendly forum.

ent72olds

Centari is a very good product. Better resins and screeners. The sides don't take nearly the beating as horizontal surfaces. How many times do you see cars fading on flat surfaces as opposed to vertical? Especially reds.....

TomOD

Railguy, if you have a non=metalic paint, you can use an artist paint brush to fill the chip with primer and paint. If you have a metallic paint. you will have to fill the chip with primer and dust the color with an air brush. You can remove most of the overspray with detail clay.

coppercutlass

I usually like to fill the cip with as much paint as possible so I thicken it up with some clear base coat let it dry then dab clear in let it dry then block it with a nib/run stone then 2000 grit and 3000 then. Buff. I only did this a few time very time consuming but it beats re painting. I use mack brushes to fill the cips in with paint and a fisheye clear dabber for the clear.

Railguy

I have metallic paint. What kind of primer do I use?What kind of airbrush do I use?I know nothing.I've never used detailing clay.
railguy

Railguy

Thanks a lot of help and good ideas.
railguy

TomOD

Railguy, I hate to say this, but if you know nothing about painting, trying to touch up a metallic paint and make it look good should be trusted to an experienced painter. This is especially true if your paint is base coat clear coat. There are many variables to getting a good match on a metallic paint.

Touching up with a brush will leave you with a spot that is much darker than the surrounding paint. Using an air brush takes a lot of practice and blending the color requires using the correct reducer for the spraying temperature as well as knowing how to adjust the spray pattern for a good color match.

Check around for a paintless dent repair shop. Some of them touch up stone chips and scratches.