I'm looking for a recommendation for a car alarm system.


My car: 1969 442 'vert


Requirements:

• two-way key-fob remote, I want to be alerted if the alarm system triggers and I'm not within ear-shot.
• sensors or pins on door, hood, trunk.
• shock, tilt, or motion sensor, if it gets hit, pushed, or hooked up to a tow-truck
• ignition disable (I know, a trained monkey could hot-wire these cars, but at least it'll slow them down for a minute.)
• really, really loud siren.
• ability to hook-up additional piezo buzzers (120db), likely put them in the AC vents.
• back-up battery so it will keep alarming if the thief disconnects the primary car battery

Anything else to look for or add?


Anyone have experience with the low-jack tracking systems?


I like to drive my car as much as possible. Work is pretty safe and secure, but sometimes I stop for groceries or such.


Thanks, RC

 

Alarm systems are worthless. Has ANYONE here ever called the police after hearing a car alarm?

Didn't think so.

Install a good hidden kill switch. The best anti-theft device I ever had was the sport steering wheel on my 442 in college. When parking in questionable areas, I simply popped the horn button off and removed the six screws holding the wheel to the hub. I would either take the wheel with me or lock it in the trunk. Problem solved.

 

Most idiots that would mess with your car are not that bright, so mainly apply common sense and pay your insurance premiums.

Since it's a 'vert, leave it unlocked with no valuables inside. Maybe they will try a door and find nothing inside before cutting the top but don't count on it.

Kill switch is a good idea but the common method on 69 and newer cars is to first yank the column lock with a dent puller. In seconds the lock is gone and all the needed wires are exposed. A kill switch (poor mans version is to take your coil wire with you) will keep them from going anywhere but the damage will be done.

Not many ways to stop a flat bed, so maybe lo-jack would give you peace of mind that is worth the costs. I will just file a declared value claim and move on if that unlikely event happens.

 

Uh, wanna try that again?

There are NO wires to the lock cylinder on a 1969-up Olds. The ignition switch is at the base of the column, not by the key. All you have to do is undo two nuts to drop the column and access the switch.

THIS is why a kill switch is a good thing. Hot wire all you want but if you install the kill switch correctly, it still won't start.

And yes, if a thief wants the car, it WILL be stolen. Your mission is to make it difficult enough that he goes on to someone else's car.

My favorite is a sort of kill switch. Basically you wire a switch in the power line to the coil. Install a slow-blow fuse in PARALLEL with the switch. With the switch closed, the car runs normally. With the switch open, the car starts, runs for a few seconds, then dies as the slow-blow fuse burns out. The thief can't re-start the car and abandons it thinking it just runs like crap.

 

I'd just keep it heavily insured and hope they take the whole thing at once. I hate it when they destroy the car and leave the big part behind. I agree with Joe and Dane, alarms are useless and IMHO so are kill switches, they are too easy to hotwire under the hood no matter how the switch is installed. Possibly a fuel shutoff valve would result in Joes scenario of a car that runs a short distance and dies would work.

 

Joe's right an I'll never make it as a car thief. Think we are all in agreement on being cautious as opposed to thinking an alarm will really deter a thief or vandal. All backed up with a good insurance policy just in case.

 

Comes from watching too many TV shows and movies, where someone reaches under the dash, touches two wires together for a second, and the car starts, conveniently ignoring the locked steering column or the need to provide power to the ignition system...

 

That drives me nuts and I see it almost daily.......
The other one that kills me is fire sprinklers, set one off and they all go off - but - not in real life.......

 

Well, with my 65 VW I usually take my steering wheel off and I for the 68 Olds that I'm working on now I have one of those Grant systems where the steering wheel comes off as well. It's much more convenient than the set up I have for my VW, but they both work and most idiot thieves won't bother a car that doesn't have a steering wheel.

If they really want your car they will find a way. I cannot stress enough on getting the right insurance.

 

I installed a Clifford Matrix system in my 72 with all the options you seek. Many of the sensors are extra cost extras, but they all work well. It was bought in 2007 and has had no issues. It makes the more 'honest' thugs think twice and gives the conveniences of remote doors, trunk, and retained accessory power. It also pulses the horn, which is much louder than typical sirens. I omitted the siren for a more 'stock' sound.

 

Thats what I did when I had my 74 Cutlass Supreme.

 

Nobody hotwires a car anymore. They flatbed or drag them on a trailer. If I'm leaving the car someplace I'm not comfortable I leave my iPhone under the mat and will use the "find my phone" function should the need ever arise.

(I usually take my coil wire too but I don't expect that's really going to help much).

 

Phone trick should work well. Imagine tracking right to your car. And phone...

Mine has a system that automatically arms whenever the starter is used.
Until disarmed it will start and run fine... until you pull it out of Park. Then she dies. Restarts readily. Runs fine. Until you take it out of park.

Thieves would probably be stalled at the fact that the steering column does not have a key place. Nothing to pull.

 

You need insurance, like said above. You need to park in a locked garage for storage. You need to travel armed. Disable the car in some way when leaving it. There's no real way to stop a flatbed other than put it where it can't hook it, which is hard, hide it in a garage, which is not always available, or guard it and shoot the thief.

 

One of the best anti-theft devices today is a manual transmission.

 

Heh
Diesel engine and MT, plus floor shift not hooked up right requiring steering column collar to be turned. Frustrate 'em to death.

I thought of simply wiring 6 double throw switches such that unless every handle is in the right position, it is disabled. So, like, switches 142 have to be up or else it will not go. Just scramble 'em upon leaving. All up, all down, whatever.

 

Resurrecting this based on an article in Saturday's paper...

 

I found it very amusing.

 

over on the chevelle site a guy zip tied a phone behind his dash and tapped power off the lighter so it's always charged.

 

On the power tour, I did the following:

1. Stay in nice hotels in nice parts of town. I also stayed at the Rockcastle Shooting Center the first night, where you can, and I have, take rifle and pistol in a full combat rig down the main stairs.
2. Shamelessly use your old man's handicapped placard for his convenience and your well lit, extra wide, near to the front door, secure parking.
3. Use The Club (mine is a Super Truck Club)
4. Use a steering column shield, ignition cylinder shield, and steering wheel rotation obstruction steel lockable device.
5. Use a battery negative disconnect.
6. Most importantly, park in a lot with 35 other, less protected, more valuable classic cars each night.

I did not pull or partial disconnect or fake a coil wire, nor did I do a fuel disconnect.

At home, you need a locked garage with no windows. You also need to either live in a nice area, or watch who is following you home. You also need to not let people know where you live offhand, nor show off your house or garage
to anyone but close friends and family.

 

Anyone hear of Revelco? They claim the system is not by-passable and car only runs with supplied key module plugged in. No help on a tow truck theft, but it sounds good. I'm considering one for my 68 Charger, given the cost and desirability of those cars. I like the cellphone idea too. Probably best to have multiple system on an expensive car.
Tim

 

That's pegging the meter. ANY system can be bypassed. At some point there is a wire to the coil and a wire to the starter. You only need to provide power on those two wires to start the car. Unless this system somehow magically encases the coil and the starter in an impervious force field, you can hot wire it.

 

Zore goes with me....