My car wouldn't start for a bit the other day but I couldn't figure out why that happened, and it didn't happen again for several weeks. Then today it did the same thing, but I never could get it going. I narrowed it down to the ignition switch and am going to replace that. I have also now learned how to hot wire the car in the meantime. Car starts and runs fine if just jumpering the pins on the ignition switch connector.

Anyway, my question is - when getting a replacement, is there a way to key the cylinder to match my current key? I'm not really wanting a third key, or to have to replace the door locks as well.

I found the lock cylinder and Ignition switch at Fusick and was also going to ask them and order them. But wondering if anyone here knows the answer.

 

The ignition switch does not include the key assembly. You can reuse your key you have now. You will have to remove the key tumbler assembly before the switch can be removed from the dash. More importantly, how did you trouble shoot your no start problem? I would think that the problem is more likely with the neutral safety switch.

 

Be sure it's not your neutral safety switch (assuming it's an automatic). If you jumper the battery 12V on the back of the ignition switch to the solenoid wire, the car will start even if the neutral safety switch is bad or out of adjustment. Sometimes the shifter is just sloppy, so get the car to where it will not start and move the shifter around while you try to start the car. Hope I save you a few bucks!

 

Hmm. Might have misspoke. I removed the ignition switch and the lock cylinder. Everything works by just jumpering the wires on the connector to the ignition switch so it is definitely an issue in the switch/cylinder. I couldn't get the cylinder to rotate back to ACC to be able to pop it out so I'm thinking of just replacing both. But I'd like to get the cylinder set to my current key if possible

 

i definitely narrowed it to the ignition switch/ cylinder. Initially, when I could get to ACC, i could wiggle the switch and see accessory power come and go

 

Use your key in the switch's lock, turn until one end of a paper clip inserted into the little hole on the face depresses the internal locking pin and allows you to remove the lock cylinder from the switch.

 

Ok, so you're confusing a couple different things. The lock cylinder is just a lock. It is removed by turning to ACC and pushing in the pin inside the little hole. Maybe reverse that order. If the cylinder turns, stays, locks, and stays put, it is fine. The switch is the electrical part. Remove the cylinder, then run switch by turning a screwdriver. Check all that.

A competent locksmith can rekey your cylinder, or you can simply buy the door locks with it, which are cheap.

 

Got it. I don't think I am confusing them though. I understand that you need both a working lock cylinder as well as the switch. At a minimum, my lock cylinder is bad. The problem at this point in time is that the lock cylinder will not rotate to ACC with the key in. So, I cannot remove the cylinder from the switch. I can't get it to rotate enough to uncover the hole that the paper clip goes into. I am proceeding with ordering a new switch and lock cylinder from rockauto and am looking for a local locksmith that can rekey the cylinder to my current key. But the part from rockauto actually has the door cylinders as well, so it's possible I might just stick with the new key and replace those as Koda suggested.

Thanks for everyone's feedback. I hadn't thought of the neutral-safety switch at the time, but based on my tests before and after removing the switch, I think the NSS is working fine. I think the cylinder just wore out and since the current cylinder seems stuck in the switch, both will get replaced.

 

You're on it! Let us know how it comes out.

 

You got it. Good luck. Also, try some graphite on the key, rock the key a little, try to jiggle it into acc.

 

You may have an issue with the new lock cylinder, if you door and cylinder are original to the car the key blanks will be a B10
All, of the new lock cylinder I have seen use a B48 key blank. B48 key blanks will not work on the original door locks.
I just bust the switch to get the cylinder out

 

B10 and/or B48 key blanks will work on your car.

 

I was thinking that my old keys might be somewhat worn as well so it might be good to just use the new keys and cylinders and replace the ones in the doors. That's my other option I guess

 

If your old key is worn, that may be why you can't get the switch into "ACC". The easiest way to fix your key problems might be to have a locksmith (not a hardware store) make you a new key to spec.

 

With the key turned to the run position, will the key pull out of switch ?

 

No the key must be in the ACC position. Insert the paper clip wire in the hole and depress the button turn the key and the key tumbler will release from the switch.

 

He's talking about getting the key out of the dash, not getting the tumbler out of the switch. I've seen some cars that will allow the key to be removed in the run position but I don't know if this is normal for the car in question. For Corvettes, for instance:
For '53-'57, the key can be removed in the OFF or ON positions, but can't be returned to the LOCK position until the key is re-inserted.
For '58-'62, the key cannot be removed in the OFF position, but wear can allow it to happen.
For '63-64, the key can be removed in the LOCK or ON positions but not normally in the OFF or ACC positions. Wear can allow this later condition to happen.
For '65-'67, the key can be removed in the OFF position only.
Etc.

 

I've had two 65 442's and the key was removable in both with the engine running.

 

My 66 key also comes out in run.

 

My '65 the key pulls out in the run position, was curious if it was common or it was going to be a future problem. To the OP question, wondered if his key was just worn down and if he could try another key if he has one.

 

The new switch and cylinder came today so I had some time to take a look. In the meantime, I seem to now be able to rotate and remove my old cylinder from the old switch.

So to answer the earlier question now that the cylinder turns, I can remove my key in both run and acc. Not sure if that was the case earlier but it for sure is now. The new cylinder/key does not do that. BTW I got the new cylinders from rockauto.

The new set of lock cylinders does have the smaller Oldsmobile key like my original but the keys are stamped with a "C" on them and one of the slots that goes the length of the key on one side is different than my originals. I think that means the new cylinder cannot be keyed to work in with my original key. Bummer.

However, at this point my old cylinder is at least turning and seems to be working okay so I think I'm going to put the old cylinder in the new switch and reinstall. I messed up the cover on the old cylinder but I think I can transfer from the new cylinder to the old and replace that. I think the other option I have is to order a new lock but from opgi instead. Theirs looks like the original key type so that it could be redone to match my old key as opposed to the new one which doesn't look like the correct key.

One more thing I noticed was that my original keys actually say Briggs & Stratton on them as well as General Motors. they must have been the original supplier of the keys I guess.

 

I used to work in a auto parts store when all you had were catalogs, no computers. We used to do the clip thing Rund put up in #6. People were amazed at how it worked.

 

Check the Cylinder..It has a Brass Contact .These thing are Old...I have done a few of these..Restored .Removed .and Re Installed..I have had no start problems to find out that contact doesn't want to work anymore .Time to Call Fusick..