Into the unknown - Underhood restoration!
September 26th, 2011, 09:57 AM
#321
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Valve covers are back!
So Thursday on the way home I picked up my valve covers from a buddy of mine who was spraying them with the POR15 engine paint I had left over. I did not trust myself to do them and he is good with painting with an air gun. He also did the dip stick handle, valve cover bolts, and the little brackets that the wiring and brake pipe attach to.
Nice!
So now that I got the gold paint back, I painted the choke stove base and bolts with coat number one.
I removed the spark plug hole plugs and turned the engine over a few times with a ratchet to make sure the valves do their thing and the engine is rotating freely – yay!!
Spark plugs were inserted and torqued.
The notorious Mr. Pulley got reinstalled on the crank, along with the intermediate steering shaft. This shaft was a pain to get back on, despite easy to get off. All in the geometry I guess. I had no choice but to remove the steering gear bolts, balance the gear box on my knee and hold with one hand, use other hand to slide intermediate shaft to steering column shaft, wish for another couple hands, release gearbox and pray that it stays, insert bolt to upper int. shaft, get the lower end of int. shaft connected to rag joint, and rebolt steering gear box. Wow – it all worked! I scratched some paint but touched it up later.
A successful 2 hours…
On Friday, coat # 2 was applied to choke stove and bolts when I got home.
Power steering pump was filled with ½ qt Dexron III tranny fluid as recommended in the CSM. I turned the pump by hand in attempt to get the fluid circulating into the gearbox, but it was not fast enough. I will finish that later.
The battery was pulled from the ’86 and connected up to Lady, as her old top post battery is now being held for a spare for my old Ford, as it’s battery is over 7 years old!
First I wanted to test out the new starter before I went any further. Also I wanted to verify that all the magic smoke stays inside each component…
She took her first breath when I hit the key and cranked her over for about 5 seconds.
That starter worked just like I had imagined – sounds just like my 86! Many thanks, Mark!!
Towards the evening, the choke stove assembly and coil assembly were installed.
There went 3 hours – time flies out there!
On Saturday, the heater case area was cleaned of dust and crap. I found a dime in there dated 1968. Given a dime would buy something back in 1971, what might that assembly line worker lost out on back then??
It was not in a location where dropping it through a vent would get it there.
I could not help waiting on replacing that little decayed fuel line behind the right front wheel. Opened the garage door some and turned the vent fan on – I predicted a spill I guess.
Changing a 3” hose sounds like a simple task, but it was hellish. In short, the old hose was sliced off, fuel spilling all over as I fought it off, as the jackstand would not allow the catch tray to get right under it. The new piece did not want to go on, and when I got one side of the hose on, pushing the other pipe on pushed the hose way down the other.
Fought the hose the other way, then it went too far, came off the other end, and fuel gushed out again. A third attempt was successful. Geez… I guess I lost about half a quart, most on the garage floor. I am guessing this was an original hose – it was marked SWAN GAS.
Here is the good, bad and ugly:
After that fiasco, I was not whipped yet, so the A/C case went in. First it got a ¼” of 3M strip caulk around the edges and the case was inserted from the underside – much easier on the back to do it like that. When all was tightened, I hooked my battery charger to the motor to let it blow so I could check for air leaks. I am glad I did, as there was a large leak at the blower side of the case. The firewall is not flat and there are only 2 bolts on that side. Even the assy manual said to double check that area. So, I filled the gaps with more 3M strip caulk – this stuff is great. (Yes, the case was on the locator dowel.)
Next I stuffed the PCV grommets in the valve covers. The grommets are available at rockauto for a couple dollars each under the Dorman and Airtex brands. However, the filter grommet needed its slot enlarged with a hacksaw before fitting well enough for the filter to be twisted in.
Disty cap and wires went on last – she is ready to run!
(to be continued...)
Nice!
So now that I got the gold paint back, I painted the choke stove base and bolts with coat number one.
I removed the spark plug hole plugs and turned the engine over a few times with a ratchet to make sure the valves do their thing and the engine is rotating freely – yay!!
Spark plugs were inserted and torqued.
The notorious Mr. Pulley got reinstalled on the crank, along with the intermediate steering shaft. This shaft was a pain to get back on, despite easy to get off. All in the geometry I guess. I had no choice but to remove the steering gear bolts, balance the gear box on my knee and hold with one hand, use other hand to slide intermediate shaft to steering column shaft, wish for another couple hands, release gearbox and pray that it stays, insert bolt to upper int. shaft, get the lower end of int. shaft connected to rag joint, and rebolt steering gear box. Wow – it all worked! I scratched some paint but touched it up later.
A successful 2 hours…
On Friday, coat # 2 was applied to choke stove and bolts when I got home.
Power steering pump was filled with ½ qt Dexron III tranny fluid as recommended in the CSM. I turned the pump by hand in attempt to get the fluid circulating into the gearbox, but it was not fast enough. I will finish that later.
The battery was pulled from the ’86 and connected up to Lady, as her old top post battery is now being held for a spare for my old Ford, as it’s battery is over 7 years old!
First I wanted to test out the new starter before I went any further. Also I wanted to verify that all the magic smoke stays inside each component…
She took her first breath when I hit the key and cranked her over for about 5 seconds.
That starter worked just like I had imagined – sounds just like my 86! Many thanks, Mark!!
Towards the evening, the choke stove assembly and coil assembly were installed.
There went 3 hours – time flies out there!
On Saturday, the heater case area was cleaned of dust and crap. I found a dime in there dated 1968. Given a dime would buy something back in 1971, what might that assembly line worker lost out on back then??
It was not in a location where dropping it through a vent would get it there.
I could not help waiting on replacing that little decayed fuel line behind the right front wheel. Opened the garage door some and turned the vent fan on – I predicted a spill I guess.
Changing a 3” hose sounds like a simple task, but it was hellish. In short, the old hose was sliced off, fuel spilling all over as I fought it off, as the jackstand would not allow the catch tray to get right under it. The new piece did not want to go on, and when I got one side of the hose on, pushing the other pipe on pushed the hose way down the other.
Fought the hose the other way, then it went too far, came off the other end, and fuel gushed out again.
A third attempt was successful. Geez… I guess I lost about half a quart, most on the garage floor. I am guessing this was an original hose – it was marked SWAN GAS.Here is the good, bad and ugly:
After that fiasco, I was not whipped yet, so the A/C case went in. First it got a ¼” of 3M strip caulk around the edges and the case was inserted from the underside – much easier on the back to do it like that. When all was tightened, I hooked my battery charger to the motor to let it blow so I could check for air leaks. I am glad I did, as there was a large leak at the blower side of the case. The firewall is not flat and there are only 2 bolts on that side. Even the assy manual said to double check that area. So, I filled the gaps with more 3M strip caulk – this stuff is great. (Yes, the case was on the locator dowel.)
Next I stuffed the PCV grommets in the valve covers. The grommets are available at rockauto for a couple dollars each under the Dorman and Airtex brands. However, the filter grommet needed its slot enlarged with a hacksaw before fitting well enough for the filter to be twisted in.
Disty cap and wires went on last – she is ready to run!
(to be continued...)
September 26th, 2011, 12:01 PM
#324
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hamilton, ON
Posts: 1,450
Nice valve covers. The aftermarket ones are nice also. 
Swan Gas? Interesting. Has to be original. I seen that mentioned in ILT's catalog IIRC. A white stamp or something saying SWAN GAS to put on the main fuel line. And yes that little piece of hose is a pain to work with. I had plenty of pain... and that was working with a bare frame! I cursed and cursed ILT, but apparently the pain is somewhat normal.
Swan Gas? Interesting. Has to be original. I seen that mentioned in ILT's catalog IIRC. A white stamp or something saying SWAN GAS to put on the main fuel line. And yes that little piece of hose is a pain to work with. I had plenty of pain... and that was working with a bare frame! I cursed and cursed ILT, but apparently the pain is somewhat normal.
September 26th, 2011, 12:38 PM
#325
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Denver
Posts: 699
Nice work Rob! I am thoroughly enjoying this thread...I can REALLY relate to what you are going through. You will have great satisfaction knowing you have done this stuff yourself! (a bit of outside help we can all use now and then)
Tom
68 442 convt (looks like a real car again with fenders and grill)
70 F85
95 Aurora
Tom
68 442 convt (looks like a real car again with fenders and grill)
70 F85
95 Aurora
September 26th, 2011, 04:56 PM
#326
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
I hope to be able to enjoy the car in that time.You ain't kidding... I got less than two weeks to get it drivable.
The rare custom made covers are for sale now. Don't even need a box to ship them in...
I sure hope later on I can think of all this and actually SMILE!
September 26th, 2011, 06:43 PM
#327
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Denver, CO.
Posts: 2,339
September 26th, 2011, 07:32 PM
#328
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
She awakens!
(cont’d from Sat.)
After four and a half months of being under the knife, provoked with some shots of carb cleaner, Lady sprang to life! Video included for your enjoyment. First half is from yesterday’s starter test. It is a factory type high torque starter - sounds sweet!
I wanted to look at the valves to make sure all looked normal and to check for oil oozing from the push rods to make sure no crud got lodged in anything.
Since the cooling system was not hooked up, she was shut down after 2-3 minutes. I was paranoid as all of the pushrods were not spewing oil – only some.
It was late and had to quit, so would continue the next day. Only 4 hours on the project today, as I helped a bud get his Ford engine, tranny and clutch back together…
The assembly BUG has bitten!!!!
On Sunday I was out there at 830AM. I restarted her for 2-3 minutes and a few more valves spewed oil. I decided the cooling system needed to be hooked up so I could run her more.
So, power steering belt and water pump pulley were installed. The heater hoses were cut and installed, and coolant added. I cranked her up and had to shut down when I heard the steering pump moan. I added another ½ qt of fluid. Repeated again and added another 6oz.
I ran her another 3 minutes and oil’s well that ends well.
All push rods were emitting oil and the rockers were filled. One pushrod was a little squirter, too! Those cardboard valve covers served their last use by deflecting and absorbing the oil splatters, so into the trash they went. That was a good idea I must admit…
I heard that Ford engines need 10 minutes for the oiling system to fully prime, expel air, and set the valve lash, so I guess most engines are similar.
HOWEVER, the next problem surfaced - stupid heater core hose leak. Not a small one, but BIG – and with little-no pressure, either! Moving the clamp along the hose did not help and the tighter I made it, the worse it leaked.
I remember cleaning a lot of crap off those hose nipples and now I bet it was a lot of RTV sealer or some kind of pookie. The small nipple was crushed into an odd shape possibly by a former clamp – there was one square side and a long dimple.
So for now, the heater core was bypassed and the mess cleaned up. Looks like a new core will be installed later on. #@%&!^%!!
So now I tacked the Felpro rubber gaskets to the covers around the holes with Permatex sealer to ease the operation of installation. These gaskets are pretty thick and stiff…
(Note my freshly squashed thumb from beating out a friend’s U-joint…)
I wish I could have found the permadry plus ones!
Next the valve covers went on, tightening the bolts little by little in sequence using a nut driver. After that, the alternator bracket, cruise control servo bracket, cruise linkage, cruise servo, dashpot, wiring clips and PCV hose.
One thing to note is that the addition of the cruise servo bracket required the two existing alt bracket bolts be replaced with bolts ¼” longer than originally equipped.
Wiring was connected to the alternator, and its belt was placed on loosely. Brake booster vacuum pipe assembly was installed.
Radiator shroud & top plate went on, then fan and nuts. Belts were installed and tightened (sans A/C).
Upper control arm bumpers were installed by lightly greasing the tit and twisting it hard into the frame hole.
Lastly, the lower shock nuts were installed into the lower control arms.
Since 2 were lost, I bought a pack at Napa as recommended from another thread on this board.
They are quite different and the fit may not work well. As you can see, they overhang too much! I also had to use a cold chisel to spread them apart, as they were meant for sheet metal. If the shock will not fit through afterwards, then I will need to source some originals.
So now, the engine bay is starting to look like just that. One piece at a time, trading one problem for another…
I called it the day at 430…
Whew..........
Many thanks!
Yes, fresh paint makes all the difference. She is looking good so far, but currently I am a bit too stressed and wore out to enjoy it. I dread the first drive when it gets full of dust.
After four and a half months of being under the knife, provoked with some shots of carb cleaner, Lady sprang to life! Video included for your enjoyment. First half is from yesterday’s starter test. It is a factory type high torque starter - sounds sweet!
I wanted to look at the valves to make sure all looked normal and to check for oil oozing from the push rods to make sure no crud got lodged in anything.
Since the cooling system was not hooked up, she was shut down after 2-3 minutes. I was paranoid as all of the pushrods were not spewing oil – only some.
It was late and had to quit, so would continue the next day. Only 4 hours on the project today, as I helped a bud get his Ford engine, tranny and clutch back together…
The assembly BUG has bitten!!!!
On Sunday I was out there at 830AM. I restarted her for 2-3 minutes and a few more valves spewed oil. I decided the cooling system needed to be hooked up so I could run her more.
So, power steering belt and water pump pulley were installed. The heater hoses were cut and installed, and coolant added. I cranked her up and had to shut down when I heard the steering pump moan. I added another ½ qt of fluid. Repeated again and added another 6oz.
I ran her another 3 minutes and oil’s well that ends well.
All push rods were emitting oil and the rockers were filled. One pushrod was a little squirter, too! Those cardboard valve covers served their last use by deflecting and absorbing the oil splatters, so into the trash they went. That was a good idea I must admit…
I heard that Ford engines need 10 minutes for the oiling system to fully prime, expel air, and set the valve lash, so I guess most engines are similar.
HOWEVER, the next problem surfaced - stupid heater core hose leak. Not a small one, but BIG – and with little-no pressure, either! Moving the clamp along the hose did not help and the tighter I made it, the worse it leaked.
I remember cleaning a lot of crap off those hose nipples and now I bet it was a lot of RTV sealer or some kind of pookie. The small nipple was crushed into an odd shape possibly by a former clamp – there was one square side and a long dimple.
So for now, the heater core was bypassed and the mess cleaned up. Looks like a new core will be installed later on. #@%&!^%!!
So now I tacked the Felpro rubber gaskets to the covers around the holes with Permatex sealer to ease the operation of installation. These gaskets are pretty thick and stiff…
(Note my freshly squashed thumb from beating out a friend’s U-joint…)
I wish I could have found the permadry plus ones!
Next the valve covers went on, tightening the bolts little by little in sequence using a nut driver. After that, the alternator bracket, cruise control servo bracket, cruise linkage, cruise servo, dashpot, wiring clips and PCV hose.
One thing to note is that the addition of the cruise servo bracket required the two existing alt bracket bolts be replaced with bolts ¼” longer than originally equipped.
Wiring was connected to the alternator, and its belt was placed on loosely. Brake booster vacuum pipe assembly was installed.
Radiator shroud & top plate went on, then fan and nuts. Belts were installed and tightened (sans A/C).
Upper control arm bumpers were installed by lightly greasing the tit and twisting it hard into the frame hole.
Lastly, the lower shock nuts were installed into the lower control arms.
Since 2 were lost, I bought a pack at Napa as recommended from another thread on this board.
They are quite different and the fit may not work well. As you can see, they overhang too much! I also had to use a cold chisel to spread them apart, as they were meant for sheet metal. If the shock will not fit through afterwards, then I will need to source some originals.
So now, the engine bay is starting to look like just that. One piece at a time, trading one problem for another…
I called it the day at 430…
Whew..........
Yes, fresh paint makes all the difference. She is looking good so far, but currently I am a bit too stressed and wore out to enjoy it. I dread the first drive when it gets full of dust.
September 26th, 2011, 08:05 PM
#330
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Yes, original engine with 155k miles, no actual rebuild. It was resealed (all new gaskets) 4 years ago, and timing set and oil pump replaced as well. She ran so well and plugs looked so good I saw no reason to rebuild it.
She sounded happy when she awoke! No odd funky noises like those I make when i wake up each morning...........
She sounded happy when she awoke! No odd funky noises like those I make when i wake up each morning...........
Last edited by Lady72nRob71; February 19th, 2012 at 07:27 AM. Reason: added picture
September 26th, 2011, 08:45 PM
#331
Kjr442
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,660
Yes, original engine with 155k miles, no actual rebuild. It was resealed (all new gaskets) 4 years ago, and timing set and oil pump replaced as well. She ran so well and plaugs looked so good I saw no reason to rebuild it.
She sounded happy when she awoke! No odd funky noises like those I make when i wake up each morning...........
She sounded happy when she awoke! No odd funky noises like those I make when i wake up each morning...........
I do relate on the noises, every day I get up it's something new
.I am glad you are doing this work on your car,I am going to need the reference. Thank you for all of the detail.
September 27th, 2011, 05:42 AM
#334
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
I have pemadry+ in my Ford engine and like it.
I understand,and would have done the same thing with that knowledge about it. The timing set was my next question.
I do relate on the noises, every day I get up it's something new.
I am glad you are doing this work on your car,I am going to need the reference. Thank you for all of the detail.
I do relate on the noises, every day I get up it's something new
.I am glad you are doing this work on your car,I am going to need the reference. Thank you for all of the detail.
Her idle was always so smooth, I would have to check the tach to see if the engine was actually turning!
September 27th, 2011, 06:58 AM
#337
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Denver, CO.
Posts: 2,339
September 27th, 2011, 07:43 AM
#338
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
September 27th, 2011, 08:04 AM
#339
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Yep, permadry was widely available years ago but was discontinued for this app.
I remember searching for it last year. BTW, I do have one 90's chevy 350 permadry VC gasket that rockauto shipped by mistake. Free to anyone in the dallas area...
Eric, is this your results of the Napa lower shock nuts?
See second picture...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post325765
Hate to cut the shock bushing to allow the bolts to go in...
I remember searching for it last year. BTW, I do have one 90's chevy 350 permadry VC gasket that rockauto shipped by mistake. Free to anyone in the dallas area...
Eric, is this your results of the Napa lower shock nuts?
See second picture...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post325765
Hate to cut the shock bushing to allow the bolts to go in...
September 27th, 2011, 09:14 AM
#340
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Eric, is this your results of the Napa lower shock nuts?
See second picture...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post325765
Hate to cut the shock bushing to allow the bolts to go in...
See second picture...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post325765
Hate to cut the shock bushing to allow the bolts to go in...
The ones I posted about here (and subsequent posts) seemed to have the right depth throat, they were just a bit shallow in thickness, easily fixed by prying open a bit with a screwdriver. They lined up fine and didn't rub on anything.
- Eric
September 27th, 2011, 09:19 AM
#341
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
I'm not sure.
The ones I posted about here (and subsequent posts) seemed to have the right depth throat, they were just a bit shallow in thickness, easily fixed by prying open a bit with a screwdriver. They lined up fine and didn't rub on anything.
The ones I posted about here (and subsequent posts) seemed to have the right depth throat, they were just a bit shallow in thickness, easily fixed by prying open a bit with a screwdriver. They lined up fine and didn't rub on anything.
September 27th, 2011, 07:35 PM
#342
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Can’t stay away…
Monday I thought I would take a rest from car work. By 7pm, I could not take it any more, so out I went…
I got the air cleaner housing mostly stripped of paint with a wire brush in my high speed drill.
The thermac sensor was removed first. This often-failing part is the green sensor inside the air cleaner housing with the 2 vac hoses on it.
To remove it, there is a slick easy way to get that clip off intact! Basically you take two small pieces of sturdy metal and bend all 4 of the hose retaining fingers back. This buckles the bottom of the clip and the retaining teeth are released. When this happens, just pull the clip and your metal pieces straight out!
Since it got dark at 8 and the lights outside weren’t helping, I called it the day. I finished up the missed spots today and now it is well stripped. I could not see taking this one item to the sandblaster for just 1.5 hours of work...
Many thanks! You guys and gals sure help keep the motivation levels up so I can finish this project!
I got the air cleaner housing mostly stripped of paint with a wire brush in my high speed drill.
The thermac sensor was removed first. This often-failing part is the green sensor inside the air cleaner housing with the 2 vac hoses on it.
To remove it, there is a slick easy way to get that clip off intact! Basically you take two small pieces of sturdy metal and bend all 4 of the hose retaining fingers back. This buckles the bottom of the clip and the retaining teeth are released. When this happens, just pull the clip and your metal pieces straight out!
Since it got dark at 8 and the lights outside weren’t helping, I called it the day. I finished up the missed spots today and now it is well stripped. I could not see taking this one item to the sandblaster for just 1.5 hours of work...
September 28th, 2011, 04:24 AM
#343
I got my rocker cover gaskets at napa. The rigid plastic kind with the silicone ribs molded in. They are Fel Pro and they had to order them. Stupid parts stores have to order nearly everything for my car...
September 28th, 2011, 08:43 AM
#344
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 878
Rob,
As I relative newbie I have been quietly watching this thread over the past few months. Wanted to give you a big thumbs up on the recent progress and hope you have her on the road soon for our Texas fall convertible weather. Great addition to the forum and found some older posts you made on HVAC blowers very helpful in my own troubleshooting. Keep it up!
As I relative newbie I have been quietly watching this thread over the past few months. Wanted to give you a big thumbs up on the recent progress and hope you have her on the road soon for our Texas fall convertible weather. Great addition to the forum and found some older posts you made on HVAC blowers very helpful in my own troubleshooting. Keep it up!
September 30th, 2011, 07:20 PM
#346
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
On Wednesday after a much needed nap, I cleaned up the air cleaner housing with Eastwood’s PRE and went to coat it with their Rust Encapsulator, as it can be used as a tough-as-hell primer. What was supposed to be an easy task proved otherwise. This can of paint apparently had small solid chunks in it that clogged the nozzles repeatedly! It would spray, clog, spit, stream, splatter…… Even new nozzles clogged and getting a decent coverage was tough. After an hour, I sprayed it with their Extreme Chassis black. Considering the half-hour difficulty, it looked pretty good.
I found it hard to photograph black so the air cleaner actually looks better than it appears.
The next day I called Eastwood to complain about this, as the RE can was still half full. They were pretty good at identifying me and were very quick to say “another can will be going out to you today”. This was good service, and I expected it, as the RE was 23 bucks a can! It IS good stuff when it comes out of the can…
Last task was to do a trial fit of an inner fenderwell to see if those should go on before the suspension.
I decided fenderwells should do on first as the upper A-arm would be in the way.
Many thanks - glad I can contribute!
I found it hard to photograph black so the air cleaner actually looks better than it appears.
The next day I called Eastwood to complain about this, as the RE can was still half full. They were pretty good at identifying me and were very quick to say “another can will be going out to you today”. This was good service, and I expected it, as the RE was 23 bucks a can! It IS good stuff when it comes out of the can…
Last task was to do a trial fit of an inner fenderwell to see if those should go on before the suspension.
I decided fenderwells should do on first as the upper A-arm would be in the way.
Rob,
As I relative newbie I have been quietly watching this thread over the past few months. Wanted to give you a big thumbs up on the recent progress and hope you have her on the road soon for our Texas fall convertible weather. Great addition to the forum and found some older posts you made on HVAC blowers very helpful in my own troubleshooting. Keep it up!
As I relative newbie I have been quietly watching this thread over the past few months. Wanted to give you a big thumbs up on the recent progress and hope you have her on the road soon for our Texas fall convertible weather. Great addition to the forum and found some older posts you made on HVAC blowers very helpful in my own troubleshooting. Keep it up!
October 1st, 2011, 06:42 AM
#347
The inner fenderwells can go in after the suspension. I put mine in a few weeks ago with the wheels and tires still on. I just put a jack on the frame cradle to unload the suspension and give me more room to work but it went fine. It will be easier to work on that suspensoin with the wheelhouses out. Nice job sir.
October 2nd, 2011, 09:39 AM
#348
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Rob, have you checked to see if the thermo-vac motor on the inside of the air cleaner is functional? If it isn't it will create a small vacuum leak. Guess how I know? That was one of the things that was causing my 72 to run a little bit 'off'. Parts place has them listed for 28.00
68-72 CB10780Z: THERMAL AIR INTAKE VACUUM SENSOR (COLD START SENSOR THAT MOUNTS IN AIR CLEANER BASE)
Edit: this link has them for 11.00 at auto parts on line : http://www.auto-parts-online.com/pro...p-n-ats-1.html
68-72 CB10780Z: THERMAL AIR INTAKE VACUUM SENSOR (COLD START SENSOR THAT MOUNTS IN AIR CLEANER BASE)
Edit: this link has them for 11.00 at auto parts on line : http://www.auto-parts-online.com/pro...p-n-ats-1.html
Last edited by Allan R; October 2nd, 2011 at 09:46 AM. Reason: added info
October 3rd, 2011, 05:13 PM
#349
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
A big weekend…
Here is the time where lots came together, however I am wrenching faster than I am posting...
On Friday I played hooky from work and got in a good 7 hours of progress!
Valve covers were finally torqued to specs (I wanted to wait for the rubber to compress and settle from last snugging).
Trans modulator pipe was secured to valve cover clip with original strap, as well as the engine wiring harness.
The inner fenderwells went in next.
But before then, I stopped and admired how far this project has come when comparing to what I had started with…
Here the NEW left view…
And the right view…
The left side well was a little difficult to seat but not bad. Next was the battery tray, battery, cruise reg (unrestored), and vacuum hoses. It took a while to figure out how all the wiring and hoses were correctly routed.
The right side well went in so easy I thought something was wrong. The charcoal can and overflow tank were installed.
Last sight of the CLEAN undercoating…
And here is the engine bay, minus the A/C stuff:
Yes, I still need to restore the cruise regulator...
No, because the way it is hooked up now, it is completey disabled. No need for it here in hot TX...
That was a fast one week vacation you took!!
On Friday I played hooky from work and got in a good 7 hours of progress!
Valve covers were finally torqued to specs (I wanted to wait for the rubber to compress and settle from last snugging).
Trans modulator pipe was secured to valve cover clip with original strap, as well as the engine wiring harness.
The inner fenderwells went in next.
But before then, I stopped and admired how far this project has come when comparing to what I had started with…
Here the NEW left view…
And the right view…
The left side well was a little difficult to seat but not bad. Next was the battery tray, battery, cruise reg (unrestored), and vacuum hoses. It took a while to figure out how all the wiring and hoses were correctly routed.
The right side well went in so easy I thought something was wrong. The charcoal can and overflow tank were installed.
Last sight of the CLEAN undercoating…
And here is the engine bay, minus the A/C stuff:
Yes, I still need to restore the cruise regulator...
That was a fast one week vacation you took!!
October 3rd, 2011, 05:39 PM
#350
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Next, the suspension!
I installed the lower control arm but did not torque the nuts yet.
Upper control arm was installed next, along with all new shims in the same amounts like I had removed. Shaft to frame bolts were torqued. After this I realized I had the WHEEL SIDE of the shaft facing the other wheel. Knowing that would not work, I had to disassemble it all, and flip the shaft around.
The boingers and spindles were brought out, ready to be wrestled in next…
Note the new Moog HD boinger on the right, old STD on the left…
Actually, the reduced free height of the FE2 type spring aided in installation.
The top of the spring was placed up in the frame and some plastic was used to insulate the spring from the frame and make it slide into place easier (and reduce frame scratches).
The bottom spring end was aligned with the drain hole as per the CSM.
I lifted up the control arm and rested the end on a 3.5” wood block. With a firm nudge from the size 9, the spring popped into place!
I rotated it enough to make it align with the control arm hole.
Great!
Rob – 1, Spring – 0!
At this point, there is very little compression on the spring (just enough to hold it in place), so I felt totally safe in doing this.
I lifted up on the control arm until I was able to slide a 6” wood block under the arm’s edge. Now I can get the floor jack under the spring pocket. I found a tire scrap works well between the arm and jack to protect the paint, conform to the surface, and not slide off.
While holding the spring in, I jacked the lower arm enough to get the spindle on to the ball joints and install the nuts loosely.
However, the dust shield gave some interference to the control arm…
Upper control arm was installed next, along with all new shims in the same amounts like I had removed. Shaft to frame bolts were torqued. After this I realized I had the WHEEL SIDE of the shaft facing the other wheel. Knowing that would not work, I had to disassemble it all, and flip the shaft around.
The boingers and spindles were brought out, ready to be wrestled in next…
Note the new Moog HD boinger on the right, old STD on the left…
Actually, the reduced free height of the FE2 type spring aided in installation.
The top of the spring was placed up in the frame and some plastic was used to insulate the spring from the frame and make it slide into place easier (and reduce frame scratches).
The bottom spring end was aligned with the drain hole as per the CSM.
I lifted up the control arm and rested the end on a 3.5” wood block. With a firm nudge from the size 9, the spring popped into place!
I rotated it enough to make it align with the control arm hole.
Great!
Rob – 1, Spring – 0!
At this point, there is very little compression on the spring (just enough to hold it in place), so I felt totally safe in doing this.
I lifted up on the control arm until I was able to slide a 6” wood block under the arm’s edge. Now I can get the floor jack under the spring pocket. I found a tire scrap works well between the arm and jack to protect the paint, conform to the surface, and not slide off.
While holding the spring in, I jacked the lower arm enough to get the spindle on to the ball joints and install the nuts loosely.
However, the dust shield gave some interference to the control arm…
October 3rd, 2011, 06:01 PM
#351
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
More suspension fun!
Next the ball joint nuts were torqued and cotter pins installed.
The Bilstein shock was inserted from below and the top nut installed loosely. The bottom bolts were a bit tight. The Napa spring clip nuts are not suitable. I had to keep hammering them back straight as I put the bolt in.
Is there a source for CORRECT lower shock nuts??
So now the left side is complete!!
I did not have enough fun and torture, so I repeated all that on the right side…
Happily it ended in Rob – 2, Spring – 0.
Pre-assembled steering linkage was bolted to the frame and pitman arm.
This was like snake wrestling – trying to get all into place and bolt to the frame while each segment goes its own way... Eventually everything was attached and the nuts torqued and cotter pins added.
Great – so after those 7 hours, she is steerable now!
October 3rd, 2011, 06:57 PM
#352
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 241
I got a set from OPGi, part #DESAK16. The set includes the nuts and the corresponding bolts. The nuts were identical to the originals, they installed easily and stayed in place, I had no problem installing the new shocks. They're a bit pricey at $16.95, not including shipping.
October 3rd, 2011, 07:49 PM
#353
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Check out ILT
I got a set from OPGi, part #DESAK16. The set includes the nuts and the corresponding bolts. The nuts were identical to the originals, they installed easily and stayed in place, I had no problem installing the new shocks. They're a bit pricey at $16.95, not including shipping.
Year One has them, but you have to buy them as part of the (already supplied with shock) bushing kit...18.95/side
Parts Place has them listed as
SU4939T (1964 - 1975 Cutlass/442) FRONT LOWER SHOCK MOUNTING KIT - 8.00 / PAIR . This works out to about the same as OPGI
In Line Tube
Part Number - INL10606 1964-72 GM A-Body 67-69 F-Body 68-74 X-Body Front Shock Lower Mount Bolts & Clips 8pc $12.00
October 4th, 2011, 05:10 AM
#355
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Thanks for the nut info - expensive suckers! I could get them from the parts place next time I get something there.
I should have had Richard tack weld some regular nuts up in there!
Thanks... It is going to be hard to drive it and dirty it up...
I should have had Richard tack weld some regular nuts up in there!
October 4th, 2011, 08:54 AM
#356
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I doubt that very much. I think with all that work done you'll be like a proud papa driving it everywhere and showing it off . I'm almost inspired to put seat heating in mine. BTW, I noticed on your mpg that you changed out your buzzer to a tone modulator from a newer car. Like the bonging much better than than annoying whiny buzzer in mine.
. I'm almost inspired to put seat heating in mine. BTW, I noticed on your mpg that you changed out your buzzer to a tone modulator from a newer car. Like the bonging much better than than annoying whiny buzzer in mine.
October 4th, 2011, 09:05 AM
#357
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 2,175
Hey Rob,
Did you put those spring insulators when you put in the shock?
My rockauto Shocks, Bushings, and balljoints FINALLY shipped.... I'm not sure if i should pick up a set of those plastic saucer looking things for the top and bottom ends of the springs at the Zone.
Did you put those spring insulators when you put in the shock?
My rockauto Shocks, Bushings, and balljoints FINALLY shipped.... I'm not sure if i should pick up a set of those plastic saucer looking things for the top and bottom ends of the springs at the Zone.
October 4th, 2011, 10:10 AM
#358
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
PO'ed when some morons are watering the street instead of thier lawns.
I do NOT want the inner fenderwell undercoat dirty!!!!
I used the same type chime module from the 80's Cutlii. Even the mid 90's Caprice chime is the same.
Since I was adding an alarm to the car, rewiring the radio (correctly), and adding the rally pac, I made a custom wire harness and included the bonger all in one. I wanted the "lights on" warning, too, since I am spoiled with auto-headlights on the Caddy.
I have a writeup on that but it was before I joined this forum...
Insulators were only used on the top of the rear springs in 72.
October 4th, 2011, 10:18 AM
#359
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 2,175
October 4th, 2011, 10:22 AM
#360
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
. I have a factory lights on reminder package to install, but I really hate that buzzer....
