Into the unknown - Underhood restoration!
#281
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
As opposed to a "BFH". All 3 tools a requirement of a DIY mechanic. Oh yeah add 2 more 'secret weapons' - duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should - WD40!
#282
wow , thats turning out great ... good job ! btw... did you get any tiny air bubbles in the POR15 when you brushed it on ? I always had to deal with that when I worked with POR15. how did you avoid that ?.... I tried pouring the paint through a screen from a coffee maker to get rid of bubbles , but didnt seem to work/ or I was in to big of a hurry
I did mine in 30% or less, so there were some bubbles but they went away.
The slower it dries, the better the finish it almost seems.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Yep. The guys in the white coats will be taking me away soon...
![EEK!](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
I was thinking of my Ford which has that one bolt that holds it all on. It has a 4 speed, so removing it is easy.
Well, it looks like Mr. Pulley will be coming off this afternoon!!
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I am sure glad this was brought up!!
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#283
#284
Duly noted! Even though I prefer PB-Blaster over WD40 for the things that don't move so easily.
Judging from Rob's work and progress, I'm going to need a few cans of both for my projects, that's for sure.
Oh, make sure not the get any on the BFH, I'd hate for it's to slip off the pulley.
Judging from Rob's work and progress, I'm going to need a few cans of both for my projects, that's for sure.
Oh, make sure not the get any on the BFH, I'd hate for it's to slip off the pulley.
![Wink](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#285
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#286
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Careful there Master Yoda! Wiggle it should off easily..... LIGHT persuasion as needed. So Rubber mallet, maaayyybee a SFH with Light taps and it should pop right off. It did with the one on the 455 I tored down and it was on tighter than a Scotsman's hands on his wallet.
#289
Duly noted! Even though I prefer PB-Blaster over WD40 for the things that don't move so easily.
Judging from Rob's work and progress, I'm going to need a few cans of both for my projects, that's for sure.
Oh, make sure not the get any on the BFH, I'd hate for it's to slip off the pulley.![Wink](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Judging from Rob's work and progress, I'm going to need a few cans of both for my projects, that's for sure.
Oh, make sure not the get any on the BFH, I'd hate for it's to slip off the pulley.
![Wink](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
This is a great build to watch. The speed of the work is amazing. I wonder how Rob can get 28 hours out of one day.
#290
Careful there Master Yoda! Wiggle it should off easily..... LIGHT persuasion as needed. So Rubber mallet, maaayyybee a SFH with Light taps and it should pop right off. It did with the one on the 455 I tored down and it was on tighter than a Scotsman's hands on his wallet.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
So popped the 4 bolts off with the 18V impact wrench and toss em in the parts washer. Nice going so far!
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
However.................
Mr. Pulley is stuck. Mr. Pulley meets SFH. Mr. Pulley curses SFH. SFH refuses to work. Grab BFRM (BF rubber mallet). Beat pulley from all sides. Pulley becomes loose. Lots of crap falls out. Grab pulley and pull and twist, lightly and hard. Pulley starts to rotate. Spray with WD40. Beat pulley more. Turn pulley. Pull pulley. Repeat 10 times.
Pulley now spins all the way around easily like its on bearings. Pulley will not come forward. Pry on pulley with 3 screwdrivers. Pulley stays put.
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
So as you can see, this was no cakewalk.. Almost 2 hours on a stinken' pulley.
However, I defeated the sucker and it got wirewheeled, derusted, etched, and primed. To my amazement, drops of water began falling from the sky.
![EEK!](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Therefore I could not apply final paint, but will do that tomorrow.
After this summer, dead...
![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
The commitment to finishing by October keeps me going, though.
It looks like your starter will get its first juice by next weekend.
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#291
Rob, what are you doing in October? I have an October deadline set for myself as well...I'm trying to make the BOP shootout in San Antonio. I need break-in miles so if there is something going on up your way I'd love the opportunity to drive up there.
#292
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ow-update.html
Here are pics from 2 years ago when I went:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...zone-show.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...a-members.html
If this aint worth driving down to attend, nothing is!
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#295
Care package from John arrives!
Saturday delivery – just in time!
In the box was a choke stove and pipes, two steering column bearings, an ignition capacitor, sway bar bracket, exhaust spring and a valve rotator.
Exhaust spring and rotator was cleaned up and checked out and installed. I did notice the rotator was worn 0.020” more than the old one. Therefore there would be less force on the exhaust valve, but I figure that little bit could not matter that much on a street engine. It turns fine, unlike my old one that binds. My original is on the right.
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33484d1316397357-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-rotators_3043.jpg)
The choke stove was for a 455, different than for a 350, but easily modified to fit a 350. Some careful creative bending and presto!
Old on the left, new on the right:
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33485d1316397357-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-choke-stove_assys_3052.jpg)
For a used part, it is pretty solid. The part that goes in the manifold is a lot shorter than mine, but it should work.. My old hot air pipe had a hole in it, so his new one would surely work better!
I cleaned it up, smoothed it out, and painted it.
The steering column bearings were both as loose as my old one. I am guessing they all have a 0.01” slop designed in, so I cleaned up my old one more, packed it with grease, then reinstalled it.
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33486d1316397357-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-lower_column_bearing_3040.jpg)
I never felt any looseness down there before, so I will leave it as is. The added grease firmed it up some also.
Ignition cap, bracket, and sway bar bracket were all stripped, cleaned, and painted.
Cap was mounted on the coil bracket the next day along with the coil.
Brake booster pipe assembly was assembled also.
Lastly, the infamous (pain-in-the-butt) Mr. Pulley was painted with underhood black, along with the bolts..
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33487d1316397357-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-more_parts_ready_3062.jpg)
Good progress for 4 hours. So now the missing puzzle pieces have been found and assembly continues. I will take the parts I did not use back to John when I visit with him this fall - works out great for both of us. Thanks John!
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
RX pain meds and beer do strange things to my mind.....
In the box was a choke stove and pipes, two steering column bearings, an ignition capacitor, sway bar bracket, exhaust spring and a valve rotator.
Exhaust spring and rotator was cleaned up and checked out and installed. I did notice the rotator was worn 0.020” more than the old one. Therefore there would be less force on the exhaust valve, but I figure that little bit could not matter that much on a street engine. It turns fine, unlike my old one that binds. My original is on the right.
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33484d1316397357-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-rotators_3043.jpg)
The choke stove was for a 455, different than for a 350, but easily modified to fit a 350. Some careful creative bending and presto!
Old on the left, new on the right:
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33485d1316397357-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-choke-stove_assys_3052.jpg)
For a used part, it is pretty solid. The part that goes in the manifold is a lot shorter than mine, but it should work.. My old hot air pipe had a hole in it, so his new one would surely work better!
I cleaned it up, smoothed it out, and painted it.
The steering column bearings were both as loose as my old one. I am guessing they all have a 0.01” slop designed in, so I cleaned up my old one more, packed it with grease, then reinstalled it.
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33486d1316397357-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-lower_column_bearing_3040.jpg)
I never felt any looseness down there before, so I will leave it as is. The added grease firmed it up some also.
Ignition cap, bracket, and sway bar bracket were all stripped, cleaned, and painted.
Cap was mounted on the coil bracket the next day along with the coil.
Brake booster pipe assembly was assembled also.
Lastly, the infamous (pain-in-the-butt) Mr. Pulley was painted with underhood black, along with the bolts..
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33487d1316397357-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-more_parts_ready_3062.jpg)
Good progress for 4 hours. So now the missing puzzle pieces have been found and assembly continues. I will take the parts I did not use back to John when I visit with him this fall - works out great for both of us. Thanks John!
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
RX pain meds and beer do strange things to my mind.....
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#296
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Super easy, yea. In a fantacy world I guess! ![Stick Out Tongue](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
So popped the 4 bolts off with the 18V impact wrench and toss em in the parts washer. Nice going so far!![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
However.................
Mr. Pulley is stuck. Mr. Pulley meets SFH. Mr. Pulley curses SFH. SFH refuses to work. Grab BFRM. Beat pulley from all sides. Pulley becomes loose. Lots of crap falls out. Grab pulley and pull and twist, lightly and hard. Pulley starts to rotate. Spray with WD40. Beat pulley more. Turn pulley. Pull pulley. Repeat 10 times.
Pulley now turns all the way around easily like its on bearings. Pulley will not come forward. Pry on pulley with 3 screwdrivers. Pulley stays put.
Get SBFH ("Big Bertha"). No room to swing.
Get beer. Look for hidden nuts or washers. None to be found. Grab pulley again and pull and twist. Pulley curses me and spins.
Get big screwdriver and pound it in between SOB pulley and balancer with BFH from below. Mr. Pulley pops off and drops. Mr. Pulley trys to knock Rob in the noggin. Rob trys hard to not launch Mr. pulley into Earth's orbit.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
So popped the 4 bolts off with the 18V impact wrench and toss em in the parts washer. Nice going so far!
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
However.................
Mr. Pulley is stuck. Mr. Pulley meets SFH. Mr. Pulley curses SFH. SFH refuses to work. Grab BFRM. Beat pulley from all sides. Pulley becomes loose. Lots of crap falls out. Grab pulley and pull and twist, lightly and hard. Pulley starts to rotate. Spray with WD40. Beat pulley more. Turn pulley. Pull pulley. Repeat 10 times.
Pulley now turns all the way around easily like its on bearings. Pulley will not come forward. Pry on pulley with 3 screwdrivers. Pulley stays put.
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#297
But bushings are supposed to be a pain! After all they are press fit and rusted on with a shaft through the center.
My pulley? Four friggen bolts that came right out. Nothing else visible to hold it on. That's my luck. The hard parts pop right off but the easy stuff don't.
My pulley? Four friggen bolts that came right out. Nothing else visible to hold it on. That's my luck. The hard parts pop right off but the easy stuff don't.
#298
Woot. Highly recommend the semi gloss black.
I started out with flat, and then went to semi-gloss instead. This is the flat in the pic tho.
442enginebayclean.jpg
For the plastic fender wells buy the Krylon FUSION rattle can paint.
It's specially designed for plastics, and it works awesome. Just about all parts stores carry it.
I started out with flat, and then went to semi-gloss instead. This is the flat in the pic tho.
442enginebayclean.jpg
For the plastic fender wells buy the Krylon FUSION rattle can paint.
It's specially designed for plastics, and it works awesome. Just about all parts stores carry it.
![](http://www.pacoa.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x265/2c87205fc434e199fcb5bbdee8c0c4b0/724504025191.jpg)
#299
On Tuesday the frame grooves were welded
After the bozo who was supposed to come weld it with his gas powered unit didn’t show, I hired the legendary gearhead78 to come weld them up with his Millermatic 175 MIG. I should have called him in the first place, but my ignorance of welders never led me to believe they could plug into a regular clothes dryer outlet. We did just that since the welder only needed a 30A circuit.
Richard was here for 30 minutes, only 2 minutes of that was blue-light time…
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33675d1316658228-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-frame_welding_0781.jpg)
So in the end I had two nice thick welds, one in each front control arm mounting point.
Thanks for a good job Richard!
The next day was the fun of grinding the welds. They were not easy to grind through, so they must be quite strong! I used an angle grinder to hit the highest points but it would not get into the back.. I tried the dremel but it would take too long. I ended up using my 30 year old 120V 2000 RPM electric drill with a mower blade sharpening stone. It worked but was time consuming and messy. After about 30 minutes per side, I cleaned the areas and painted them with POR15 like the rest of the frame.
Here is the process - before, after weld, after grind, after paint. Good enough.
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33676d1316658228-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-frame_welding.jpg)
Glad to have that milestone passed!
The flat black on your firewall looks pretty factory to me. Yes, the frame is best with the semigloss, not only for looks, but for cleanability, too. Should be easy to topcoat over the flat.
No paint is best on the fenderwells and oven cleaner will strip them CLEAN of almost everything.
The plastic paint is a good idea if the plastic is discolored on the engine side like mine were on the tire side.
Richard was here for 30 minutes, only 2 minutes of that was blue-light time…
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33675d1316658228-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-frame_welding_0781.jpg)
So in the end I had two nice thick welds, one in each front control arm mounting point.
Thanks for a good job Richard!
The next day was the fun of grinding the welds. They were not easy to grind through, so they must be quite strong! I used an angle grinder to hit the highest points but it would not get into the back.. I tried the dremel but it would take too long. I ended up using my 30 year old 120V 2000 RPM electric drill with a mower blade sharpening stone. It worked but was time consuming and messy. After about 30 minutes per side, I cleaned the areas and painted them with POR15 like the rest of the frame.
Here is the process - before, after weld, after grind, after paint. Good enough.
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33676d1316658228-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-frame_welding.jpg)
Glad to have that milestone passed!
Highly recommend the semi gloss black.
I started out with flat, and then went to semi-gloss instead. This is the flat in the pic tho.
For the plastic fender wells buy the Krylon FUSION rattle can paint.
It's specially designed for plastics, and it works awesome. Just about all parts stores carry it.
I started out with flat, and then went to semi-gloss instead. This is the flat in the pic tho.
For the plastic fender wells buy the Krylon FUSION rattle can paint.
It's specially designed for plastics, and it works awesome. Just about all parts stores carry it.
No paint is best on the fenderwells and oven cleaner will strip them CLEAN of almost everything.
The plastic paint is a good idea if the plastic is discolored on the engine side like mine were on the tire side.
#300
I had wondered what happened with this repair since you mentioned a welder was supposed to arrive on a Saturday a couple of weeks ago. People who never follow through on what they promise really bug the crap out of me. Glad you found someone to take care of it and now you don't have to worry about those grooves and feel you need to look them over from time to time. Problem solved. You will find that some of the small welders will plug into a 110V receptacle. These migs are very user friendly and require no special power source, which is why I was kidding you in the past about no one down your way offering to help you out. As for the lawn mover griding stone, I had to laugh at that one because...well.. I did the same exact thing many years ago and it did the trick.
#301
You will find that some of the small welders will plug into a 110V receptacle. These migs are very user friendly and require no special power source, which is why I was kidding you in the past about no one down your way offering to help you out. As for the lawn mover griding stone, I had to laugh at that one because...well.. I did the same exact thing many years ago and it did the trick.
Richard's welder had a 6-50 plug, but he had a 20' extension that had a 6-50 receptical and a 10-30 plug, which is a dryer plug. I never knew about this and I am glad we looked into it. Heck, when he told me his welder only needed a 30A circuit, i was ready to swap out my dryer plug for a 6-50 just so we could get the job done. His extension saved more time and all in all I got a quality repair in just 30 minutes. I learned a lot here!
![EEK!](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#302
Did I explain that well enough?
- Eric
#303
![Stick Out Tongue](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Crawling around your floor I sure learned something. I am a spoiled SOB.
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
It's been 9 years since I moved outside of town to a house with a small shop and now built a bigger small shop. I don't know how I ever worked out of a regular house garage with 2 cars in it all the time like I used to.
#304
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Got a question now. Seeing as the frame can be welded (high heat) what are the chances my Control arm that got dented during the bushing press can be heated and pounded flat again?
A mechanic said this would be a bad move because it is a suspension part, and heating will ruin the steels tempering rendering the CA useless. Is this true? that CA is bloody heavy gauge steel. It is one of the rear CA bushing holes (the back one to be specific) that got dented.
A mechanic said this would be a bad move because it is a suspension part, and heating will ruin the steels tempering rendering the CA useless. Is this true? that CA is bloody heavy gauge steel. It is one of the rear CA bushing holes (the back one to be specific) that got dented.
#305
#306
The frame is an alloy of mild steel as is that lower control arm. However that hole the bushing goes in is a high tolerance hole. Not much of a variance in the size because that bushing MUST fit very tightly. If you heat that arm it could change the size of it. I wouldn't take the chance. It can be cold straightened. There are gorillas swinging BFHs to straighten and metal finishing our big old bumpers.
#307
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Point taken. I'll drop by a shop and see if they can help. I was having a problem with it because it doesn't fit easily into a vise, and I don't have an anvil to beat it against.
Here's what it looks like:
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33696d1316723000-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-img_1683.jpg)
As you can see there is absolutely no damage to the main seat where the bushing presses in. The damage is on the back side where the bushing sits. Rob and I discussed this and think it may be ok as is, but ultimately would be better if it was straightened.
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33697d1316723589-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-img_1692.jpg)
#309
How about a big c -clamp and two pieces of thick metal sandwiched together.
Here gorilla rilla rilla.....Got a banana for you.....
Point taken. I'll drop by a shop and see if they can help. I was having a problem with it because it doesn't fit easily into a vise, and I don't have an anvil to beat it against.
Here's what it looks like:
As you can see there is absolutely no damage to the main seat where the bushing presses in. The damage is on the back side where the bushing sits. Rob and I discussed this and think it may be ok as is, but ultimately would be better if it was straightened.
Point taken. I'll drop by a shop and see if they can help. I was having a problem with it because it doesn't fit easily into a vise, and I don't have an anvil to beat it against.
Here's what it looks like:
As you can see there is absolutely no damage to the main seat where the bushing presses in. The damage is on the back side where the bushing sits. Rob and I discussed this and think it may be ok as is, but ultimately would be better if it was straightened.
#310
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#311
Yep, I know exactly what you mean. Glad the dryer outlet worked so well.
I'll say!
I never thought I would be working on cars like this or I would have bought more land or built a bigger garage!
Hindsight is SOOOooo 20/20. ![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Here is what Richard is referring to; the biggest challenge of this project aside from the extreme heat is CLOSE QUARTERS:
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33730d1316781856-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-close_quarters_2922.jpg)
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33729d1316781856-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-close_quarters_2920.jpg)
He made sure he was gone before the giggle. His own little secret I guess... ![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Use a 8" - 12" quality clamp and the base of the clamp could go right on the arm and only one plate of 1/4" or up can be used under the rotating foot of the clamp. Lube the clamp thread well first! Worth a try and should work...
Clamp of the ball joint press could even be adapted for use.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Here is what Richard is referring to; the biggest challenge of this project aside from the extreme heat is CLOSE QUARTERS:
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33730d1316781856-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-close_quarters_2922.jpg)
![](/forums/attachments/major-builds-projects/33729d1316781856-into-unknown-underhood-restoration-close_quarters_2920.jpg)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Clamp of the ball joint press could even be adapted for use.
#312
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I'll say!
I never thought I would be working on cars like this or I would have bought more land or built a bigger garage!
Hindsight is SOOOooo 20/20. ![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Here is what Richard is referring to; the biggest challenge of this project aside from the extreme heat is CLOSE QUARTERS
![Stick Out Tongue](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Here is what Richard is referring to; the biggest challenge of this project aside from the extreme heat is CLOSE QUARTERS
Use a 8" - 12" quality clamp and the base of the clamp could go right on the arm and only one plate of 1/4" or up can be used under the rotating foot of the clamp. Lube the clamp thread well first! Worth a try and should work...
Clamp of the ball joint press could even be adapted for use.
Clamp of the ball joint press could even be adapted for use.
![EEK!](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#313
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
And that 7" gap between the front bumper and work bench is what I call "fat man's squeeze".
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
With all the hot weather and bugs we have, the roll up door has to stay closed when working, so no going around.
Translation - standard sized garages suck for working on cars.
#315
[QUOTE=Lady72nRob71;324710]
I never thought I would be working on cars like this or I would have bought more land or built a bigger garage!
Hindsight is SOOOooo 20/20. ![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
QUOTE]
Yikes, I started to feel claustrophobic just looking at the pictures. I have a friend with a very similar situation in garage about the same size and he decided he needed a 2 post lift. Talk about 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag! I had a garage like that in the past and it was no fun to work in. So when we built the current house I had the opportunity to solve that problem. But the problem with garages or work shops is no matter how big you make them, they will eventually start to feel too small at some point. I think it has to do with more space means more stuff and more stuff means less room. Less room means stuff needs to be removed or the shop needs to be bigger. I seem to see it as the shop needs to be bigger.
I never thought I would be working on cars like this or I would have bought more land or built a bigger garage!
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
![Frown](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
QUOTE]
Yikes, I started to feel claustrophobic just looking at the pictures. I have a friend with a very similar situation in garage about the same size and he decided he needed a 2 post lift. Talk about 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag! I had a garage like that in the past and it was no fun to work in. So when we built the current house I had the opportunity to solve that problem. But the problem with garages or work shops is no matter how big you make them, they will eventually start to feel too small at some point. I think it has to do with more space means more stuff and more stuff means less room. Less room means stuff needs to be removed or the shop needs to be bigger. I seem to see it as the shop needs to be bigger.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
#316
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I guess that I really can't complain. I can open the garage door and it's 75° outside. I close it and it goes down to 65°. And the other part about my garage that makes it somewhat easier to get around, it's split. One side is 24X10 and the other half is 20X10. It gives me some latitude for the 'fat man blues'.
#317
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#318
Don't worry. Carl (HAMM36) was over the other day and he couldn't make it either. Did not even try. Heck, I had to quit drinking beer and loose weight so I could pass through. ![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Got the $, just do not want to dump a lot into this house. Doing it right would be very costly. Not the right neighborhood and I would not get it back when I sell. Thought about a cheapie carport but wont help in the extreme temps...
Besides, I screwed myself on the house placement to add on even if I wanted to.![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Now my next house in OR will be different. Huge garage and a small shop on acreage.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Besides, I screwed myself on the house placement to add on even if I wanted to.
![Mad](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Now my next house in OR will be different. Huge garage and a small shop on acreage.
![Big Grin](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#320
Mine too. I tried a 120V wire feed unit a while back to repair a spot weld in a door. Even after some practice of blowing holes in sheet metal, my finished spot weld looked more like what ducks leave on the dock.
It held though, surprisingly...
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
It held though, surprisingly...
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)