Does anyone have the specs or part number for the front shock, u-nut on the lower control arm?

Where can I get these?

I don't think it makes a difference but it is for a 1972 Ninety Eight.

I never would have known I needed one until I jacked up the car and saw the bold hanging down about 1/2 inch from the lower control arm. The car handled fine and did not make any noises. The shock seems to be pretty tight to the control arm with the other bolt still in place. At first, I thought the nut was welded to the control arm...but, then I looked in the service manual and saw it was a u-nut.

 

NAPA has 'em, but they don't list them by application.

It's 5/16x18, and should be on the rack, on a hook, five to a bag, for about $5 for the bag.
Have them look up 5/16x18 clip nuts in the book.

- Eric

 

Thanks, I'll check it out!

 

Also, bring one of your old ones to compare - there are "long reach" and "short reach" types. Yours is definitely short-reach - there's no room for extra overhang.

- Eric

 

Danny, is this the same style lower front shock u-nuts as your car has, as this style is very differcult to find.

u-nut with captured square nut on top

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/64-74...Q5fAccessories

 

Lance, I'm 99% certain that is what Danny needs. They are a special size and are not likely to be found in the auto parts stores. Aside from the minimal reach, the spacing between the top and bottom of the clip is also unique. I've used those parts from that Ebay seller and they are first class items.

 

Dan ,I have these from a set of lower control arms I bought. If you need them come get them, I will be at Juniper Park today and Fri. from about 6:00 -7:30 for baseball. Juniper is on Palatine road across the street from Holy Family Church (just incase you dont know)
Gary
2011-06-30084729.jpg?t=1309441742

 

Later tonight I'll look around to see if I've got the NAPA bag with those nuts in it and post the part number.

It's not exactly the same, but it will work and look normal.

- Eric

 

I bought mine here:

http://amkproducts.com/

 

x2

 

Thanks everybody for the info!

I have not cut off the old bolt yet to see exactly what the nut looks like. All I know is what the nut in the mirror looks like!

I looked at the AMK website...but I was not sure if what they had was what I needed, as all they list is for muscle cars.

Gary,

I think I will stop by your son's baseball game tonight...after I cut the grass.

 

As promised...

NAPA Part #665-3123


You need to spread the clip slightly with a screwdriver, then tap it onto the control arm. It will snap right into place where it should be.
MUCH easier with no shock installed, but it CAN be done with the shock in.

I believe they were either $4.95 or $4.59 for five of them in a bag.

- Eric

 

And for comparison, from page 59 of the AMK catalogue:



These are both the wrong part.
If you look, you will see that the clip part goes all the way to the far edge of the nut. The clip on the correct part goes only halfway out, to the center of the nut, like the NAPA part does. If it goes farther, it won't snap into the hole the way it was designed to.

They're also more expensive, and that's not including the shipping.

- Eric

 

I had no problem installing these. In fact i didnt even need a screwdriver to make them fit.

 

Okay, look, I'm just trying to save you time and money.

Original nuts:


NAPA nuts:


AMK nuts:


You can go down to the local NAPA an buy a bag, or you can order them on line, wait, and pay shipping, whichever you prefer.

- Eric

 

Just a hint - use anti-seize on the bolts to avoid having to go through this the next time.

 

It is truly the nectar of the Gods.

The copper aviation stuff rises to another plane altogether .

- Eric

 

Ok look i am trying to state that the clips from AMK fit without any issue.

I believe those Napa nuts are intended for sheet metal and not the thickness of a LCA. But without the benefit of having one in hand i wont make any claims about a part i havent used myself.

I went in my garage and checked the part number on the bag from AMK. I bought more than one set of J nuts when i did a large AMK fastener order. The picture you showed is indeed different from the clips i used. In fact the J nuts you showed also look like they were intended for sheet metal. They are designed for .020-.060 material thickness. The correct shock J nuts are designed for .120-.160.

You were correct to state the J nut in the pic would interfere with the shock because those are the wrong clips.

When i ordered mine from AMK i went by the original GM part number. The clips from AMK that i used are B-13235 and cross reference to the original GM # 339715.

AMK now shows B-13235 J nut as a metric threaded nut. I am holding a set in my hand and they are 5/16-18. Im guessing they switched over.


In the end Danny Boy will do whats best for him. I am not here to prove my suggestion is better than yours and you dont need to get defensive about your recommendation.

When i did my shocks i did not need something cheap and fast. I needed them to be an exact fit.

 

Yes, they are. That's why they have to be spread a bit.

Ahhhhhhhh. I only had the catalogue to go by, and this was all that was shown in clip nuts for 5/16x18. As these are intended for sheet metal applications, the same as the NAPA nuts I posted, my point was, why not get the "inexact" nut cheaper and easier, rather than expensiver and harderer.

Not to be too much of a wise guy, but if the original part that you got, that was a perfect reproduction is no longer available from them, what's the harm in using a substitute?

Well, that's a whole different story then - I'm not trying to restore an antique - I'm trying to fix a car. I'm happy to use whatever part works, in order to get back on the road as fast as I can. I plan to drive this car until it rusts out, breaks, or is wrapped around a pole, not to get anything "just right" on it.

- Eric

 

Craig Motors in Napa, California says they have 9 of #339715 J-nuts in stock as of 6/29. No idea on price. You can call them at 1-800-224-8111. If you're really worried about using GM parts.

Otherwise, like everyone else says, you can sort through the NAPA Auto Parts bins.

 

Glad you posted that info. I had no idea that's how the shocks were originally bolted in. When I pulled mine out (they had been done years ago in a shop) they were just a standard nut/bolt combo. That's why I preferred to just overtighten them to get them off. Saves a lot of time and sweat equity trying to 'undo' rusted bolts/nuts. I'll put these on my list of parts needed for the next trip to NAPA. They owe me around 30.00 anyway so I'm sure they will be glad to offset the bill with a sale or 2. BTW, what grade bolts are used with the shocks. I just went and looked at the new shocks I bought from NAPA and all that's in the hardware kit is the upper bushings/retainers and a nut. I don't remember the old shocks having an 'offset' angle on the lower mount wings. Shouldn't they be 'flat - horizontal? Mine are at about a 15° angle.

NEXT TIME??? You must be kidding, right? I thought everyone used anti-sieze until I started taking my car apart. Nothing I hate now more than bolts without anti seize....

 

It'll be a hardened bolt - not sure whether a Grade 5 or Grade 8, but hard.
5/16 x 18, I think.

Not sure what you mean by the angle... The round bottom attachment bar of the shocks, with the flattened ends with the holes in them for the two bolts, should rotate in its rubber bushing in its loop.

- Eric

 

Thx Eric
Checked the shock bushing for rotation like you said by clamping it into my bench vise. Duhhhhh I get it now. I'll go with overkill on the bolts - Gr 8 should do the trick quite nicely. Maybe I'll go fancy schmanzey and get the cad plated ones....