big_wheel1971

Anyone have a good idea for removing bushings from front lower control arms (1971 Cutlass S) They are really rusted in there, as were the upper bushings. Brute force and ignorance got those out (with some advice from other threads), there must be an easier way.

70 cutlass s

Here is how Joe P. explains how to do front end rebuild your answer is in there. I tried to make link to the tread. I couldn't get it to work. So I copied to this tread. Hope it helps you. I couldn't explain any better. Than the way Joe did.

While a press (and the special Kent-Moore tools) make it much easier, I have rebuilt many A-body front ends with nothing more than a hammer, bench vice, and some large diameter sockets (or correctly sized thickwall pipe). Of course you will need a pickle fork (actually two different ones) to separate the ball joints and tie rod ends.

The upper ball joint is riveted to the control arm, so grind or drill out the rivets and the ball joint comes off. The replacement will have nuts and bolts.

The lower ball joint is removed with a small sledge hammer. Open the jaws of the bench vice just enough so that the control arm sits on top of the vice but the lower part of the ball joint fits through the opening. Depending on how badly worn the ball joint is, I've been able to wail on the end of the stud and work it loose. Failing that, use a section of pipe that just fits on the upper part of the ball joint housing. Reverse the process to install the new one. I have large sockets that are just the right size for pushing on the outer rim of the new ball joint. Flip the control arm over on the vice, insert the ball joint (I use a little grease on the mating surfaces) and hammer away.

The big problem is always removing the rubber bushings. The force of the rubber pushing on the ID of the sleeve makes it tough to get these out. The easiest (and messiest) method is to burn the rubber out with a torch (propane works) first, then collapse the sleeve with a hammer and punch so it falls out. The burning rubber makes a smokey mess, so you have to do this outside over a metal container. It usually takes lacquer thinner to remove the sooty, oily residue from the control arms. Other folks have claimed success by using a drill or a roto-zip tool to cut the rubber out. I have not tried that method, but it should work.

Reinstallation of the bushings is similar to the ball joints. Use a little grease on the mating surface, then install it in the control arm and hammer away using the correct size socket or pipe. On the lower arms, you need to wedge a piece of wood or angle iron between the two walls where the bushings go so as not to bend them during installation. On the uppers, recognize that the shaft needs to be in place as you install the bushings.

One final trick on reassembly is to be sure the weight of the car is on the springs (suspension at normal ride height) when you torque the bolts and nuts that compress the bushings. This locks the rubber in at a certain position. If done with the suspension hanging, the car will not sit right and the rubber will be overstressed. __________________
Joe Padavano

big_wheel1971

Thanks alot Andy (and Joe) I was paranoid about bending the arms with a lot of hammering but it sounds like all will be fine as long as it's locked into the vise. These bushing removal issues have been holding up alot of the other work I have planned for the front end so it will be nice to have it done and move on.
Later,
Darrell

My442

My machine shop charges $10 per bushing.

If you don't have the tools or knowledge, that is what I recommend.

The control arms bend easily if you do it wrong.

big_wheel1971

I wish that shop was around here, no one I've spoke with will do it for that price. I'll keep looking around.

Thanks

joe_padavano

Be sure to put a spacer in between the two legs of the lower arm around each bushing when you pound the new ones in. I use a section of angle iron, but a block of wood will also work. As for bending the arms, if you think you can bend them with a small sledge hammer, they you had better be worried about bumps in the road...

greenslade

When I burn out rubber I start the rubber burning then turn off the aceylene and put the oxygen to it.the oxygen keeps the rubber burning and it don't smoke as bad.

paul879

Big whell just did all of my front end bushing as well used a vise and sure was tough but used vise with big sockets as i put pressure on vise used a 10 pound hammer on kepy hitting on the afame made bushing come out alot easier good luck