Sammy's '72 Cutlass S

Old Jul 18, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #1  
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Sammy70 455 Supreme
 
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Sammy's '72 Cutlass S

Here we go.....

A few pics of the beginnings of my build. This car was in fairly rough shape but it's all there. New doors off a '70; new right front fender; all body mounts replaced and repaired; new floor; new trunk floor. Next isto continue with the body work. Motor is good - out of a '73 cutlass and it's a 350 4 barrel. More updates to come....

Ted
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 07:35 AM
  #2  
GAOldsman's Avatar
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Well you've certainly got a fantastic platform to work with How far do you plan on taking it apart?
Old Aug 2, 2012 | 10:24 PM
  #3  
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Ted, looks like you have your work cut out for this baby. Looking forward to the build. How did I miss this thread when you started it?? Mo pics bud.....
Old Oct 18, 2012 | 07:30 PM
  #4  
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YIKES! help......

I knew the front dash sill was bad, but not this bad....I am committed to this car now, any help from the forum is welcomed.
A friend said we could piece it back together..any other suggestions other than buying another shell

Ted
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72 S 004.jpg (43.8 KB, 104 views)
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 04:36 AM
  #5  
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Ted,

Take a look at this thread as this person is willing to cut up a 71 conv shell that looks to have a very nice dash and cowl.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/parts-sale/46553-71-supreme-convertible-body-shell-aborted-pro-street-project.html

It would be better if it wasn't a conv but I think you can avoid getting into your A Pillars. To fix this you will need to remove the front fenders and hood so you have clear access to the cowl. Better check the sides of your cowl too because if they have rot this conv cowl is nice. If it were me, I would see what this person wanted for the entire front cowl and windshield posts from this conv and get it. That way he can cut it across the floor/rockers and put it on a skid. If your cowl sides are good, you can sell the good ones from the conv cowl. I've seen threads where people need good sides to repair their cowl. It might cost you a few bucks but you would definitely have everthing you need. Just be sure to get a picture with the duct tape along the bottom of the windshield removed so you know that area is good.
Brian
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 08:38 AM
  #6  
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Ted,
I see you contacted the guy about the cowl. I looked at his photos again and it looks like he cut the dash and it appears the top section was cut from the lower. That still may be OK for you as long as the top hasn't been hacked up. Make sure you get a better picture of the top of the dash and one with the tape removed just t be safe.
Brian
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 09:16 AM
  #7  
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Ted, is that a local car? If it is I know what you're going through with the rust issues. My (deceased) 95 Regency Elite spent the first 4 years of it's life in Barrie. Unfortunately it was a death sentence.

I hope you can get that cowl piece. I don't remember if Curtis still has his 72 donor car. I helped him dismantle part of it in March. It had a perfect cowl area and I remember telling him that he should cut that and the rear parcel shelf out because there were always demands for them. Sending you a PM with his home contact, ok? He doesn't get on here all that much. He just found a 68 Buick Electra 225 vert to play with. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...70cutlass.html
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 06:33 PM
  #8  
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Sammy70 455 Supreme
 
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Originally Posted by 69442C
Ted,
I see you contacted the guy about the cowl. I looked at his photos again and it looks like he cut the dash and it appears the top section was cut from the lower. That still may be OK for you as long as the top hasn't been hacked up. Make sure you get a better picture of the top of the dash and one with the tape removed just t be safe.
Brian
Brian,
You are right, the dash plate is not attached, and would have to be welded
I would have to go to Port Huron at the Michigan/Ontario border to pick it up.Wee bit of a hike.
It would be the best thing to do, although the cowl on the car is good...the rust is only on the dash plate....ahh...decisions
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Allan R
Ted, is that a local car? If it is I know what you're going through with the rust issues. My (deceased) 95 Regency Elite spent the first 4 years of it's life in Barrie. Unfortunately it was a death sentence.

I hope you can get that cowl piece. I don't remember if Curtis still has his 72 donor car. I helped him dismantle part of it in March. It had a perfect cowl area and I remember telling him that he should cut that and the rear parcel shelf out because there were always demands for them. Sending you a PM with his home contact, ok? He doesn't get on here all that much. He just found a 68 Buick Electra 225 vert to play with. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...70cutlass.html
Thanks Allan...
Yes, it is a local car...from the Guelph area. This Cutlass is still worth saving, because
1.It is an Oldsmobile
2. I am Irish

I am at this point, tending to lean towards rebuilding it.The cowl and posts are still good.....and a bit of sheet metal, mig,bender and a ball peen hammer should go along way.

Ted
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 07:45 PM
  #10  
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OPGI has that piece, unless it has to be from a donor car.

http://www.opgi.com/p/steel-body-pan...6/CH27865.html

They have the side pieces also.

Hope it helps
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #11  
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Ted, if you haven't made a commitment on the cowl yet contact me. I may have another option for you.

John
Old Oct 20, 2012 | 06:30 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by sammy
Brian,
You are right, the dash plate is not attached, and would have to be welded
I would have to go to Port Huron at the Michigan/Ontario border to pick it up.Wee bit of a hike.
It would be the best thing to do, although the cowl on the car is good...the rust is only on the dash plate....ahh...decisions
Understood. There may also be cars available near you as Allan has suggested that may have good parts. Usually with these types of repairs, the damage tends to get a little worse once you get into tearing it apart. It's also a very visible area so you do want it to look good and not show evidence of a major repair. If it were me, I would try to find the top dash piece as a minimum or mabe the dash top and the top of the cowl just to be safe. Post some photos when you do the repairs.
Brian
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 01:24 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 2blu442
Ted, if you haven't made a commitment on the cowl yet contact me. I may have another option for you.

John
PM sent
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #14  
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Ted, I was reviewing some of the pics you posted at the start of the thread. You know those 'OLDSMOBILE' valve covers are from a 73 or 74? 72 VCs did not have lettering. You could probably clean them up and sell them to someone who wants the right ones for their ride. I sold a set like that earlier this year to one of our members.
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Allan R
Ted, I was reviewing some of the pics you posted at the start of the thread. You know those 'OLDSMOBILE' valve covers are from a 73 or 74? 72 VCs did not have lettering. You could probably clean them up and sell them to someone who wants the right ones for their ride. I sold a set like that earlier this year to one of our members.
Allan, that is a good idea. the guy I bought the car said the motor was out of a 73 or 74. That said, if the VC's are orig to the engine, I will keep them....a little more research on my part is needed !

Ted
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 04:39 PM
  #16  
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Do you remember where to look for the engine stamping plate? That will tell you the year the engine was produced. Does the intake manifold have an EGR or a blocked off EGR? I believe that 73 was the first year that Olds had that. Mind you, that would only tell you about the intake, which could have been replaced. The 350 on my car does have an EGR block off, but it came off a 73 or 74 I think. Got it from a buddy in Airdrie many years ago. He said it came off a wrecked 442.
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 06:59 PM
  #17  
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Numbers...

Block- 395558. 2. 8 heads

Engine ID - 33M461083

QJ carb 4bbl 704325JRA 1573

Ted
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 07:24 PM
  #18  
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1973 350 4bbl dual exhaust Lansing built

So I guess the VC's are original....

Has headers.....

Ted
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 07:38 PM
  #19  
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Well the block is a typical Olds 350, 8 heads are right for 73 but you might want to change them out:
Smog heads. Have huge bb-sized 79cc chambers yielding poor compression ratios without extremes of compensation.
Engine ID
3 - Olds
3 - 73 model year
M - Lansing
461083 - VIN derivative of donor car. Judging from the high number it would be one of the last of the 73 production?

On the carb - most of those start with 704. The 3 would indicate model year.
eg: for 1972 - 7042250 is my 4bbl. 7042251 is for the 72 455 4bbl.
I have a 73 4bbl QJ for a 455 and it's 7043251. Check yours again - see if that J isn't a 1.
Check this link from the Carburetor Doctor: http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/c...ile/index.html
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 07:41 PM
  #20  
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Ted, not sure where you found 'dual exhausts' on that engine. I don't think a LC 350 would have them. This is more likely a single exhaust 160 hp LC that the owner had converted to duals with those headers.
Old Nov 12, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #21  
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My bad, I was looking at engine code in the VIN, M is 4bbl dual exhaust 350Cid in 73......,

Thanks for catching that Allan....

Ted
Old Nov 13, 2012 | 04:44 PM
  #22  
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John,
From vent to vent, along length of windshield....can you help?

Thanks,

Ted

I also sent you a PM
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 06:06 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Allan R
Well the block is a typical Olds 350, 8 heads are right for 73 but you might want to change them out:
Engine ID
3 - Olds
3 - 73 model year
M - Lansing
461083 - VIN derivative of donor car. Judging from the high number it would be one of the last of the 73 production?

On the carb - most of those start with 704. The 3 would indicate model year.
eg: for 1972 - 7042250 is my 4bbl. 7042251 is for the 72 455 4bbl.
I have a 73 4bbl QJ for a 455 and it's 7043251. Check yours again - see if that J isn't a 1.
Check this link from the Carburetor Doctor: http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/c...ile/index.html

Carb number is 7043250' not J


Ted




Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:29 PM
  #24  
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7043250 is for a 350 4bbl. Yay!
Old Mar 20, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #25  
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Sammy70 455 Supreme
 
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Finally got around to windshield cowel repair....more like replace I was motivated by another CO member that posted their cowel repair that looked great!

Just a few pics ......

First pic...what was there,or was not depending how you look at it.
Second to fourth pic....After cutting and grinding , the new piece from John in Oregon(thanks John or 2blu442), was fitted into place.
Next step is welding and refining cut lines...but it is a start!

I will prolly pull this motor and put in a 72 455 that i have that is in good running order

Ted
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Old Mar 20, 2013 | 08:01 PM
  #26  
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Looking good Ted. That car owes you it's life. A 455 sounds like the perfect touch to that car! Looking forward to the thread updates. BTW, your pictures are a lot better now. Did you get a new camera for Christmas?
Old Mar 22, 2013 | 06:03 PM
  #27  
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A couple of pics of 72 455 i picked up that will replace the 350. This motor was rebuilt and used for about 1000 miles .The previous owner yanked it and replaced with a 350 as he was going on a roadtrip and wanted better mileage....that is the story i was told anyway. It did not escape the blue brush paintjob

Pretty clean...will open and post pics

Ted
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 06:26 PM
  #28  
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What the heck??? Chevy orange?

Doesn't look like an engine that was freshly rebuilt with only 1000 miles on it. Wutchu going to do with it? Tear down or just paint it and plant it?
Old Mar 22, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #29  
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never judge a cheap book by cover

That is actually what the guy primed it with......then he got his paintbrush out. Seals are new, oil pan and i can see the original 455 blue under the primer.
I have no reson not to believe the seller. He is very active in a big car club here, and is very reputable.
It came with everything but carb( have a spare) and a temp sensor....so for 300 bones i decided i could not go wrong..
If i have time, i will open-prolly should-if not then yes, i will paint and plop .

Ted
Old Apr 30, 2013 | 08:45 AM
  #30  
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finally got around to tacking the piece into place! Time to grind and fill

Ted
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442 before 017.jpg (74.6 KB, 20 views)
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