Sammy's '72 Cutlass S
#1
Sammy's '72 Cutlass S
Here we go.....
A few pics of the beginnings of my build. This car was in fairly rough shape but it's all there. New doors off a '70; new right front fender; all body mounts replaced and repaired; new floor; new trunk floor. Next isto continue with the body work. Motor is good - out of a '73 cutlass and it's a 350 4 barrel. More updates to come....
Ted
A few pics of the beginnings of my build. This car was in fairly rough shape but it's all there. New doors off a '70; new right front fender; all body mounts replaced and repaired; new floor; new trunk floor. Next isto continue with the body work. Motor is good - out of a '73 cutlass and it's a 350 4 barrel. More updates to come....
Ted
#4
YIKES! help......
I knew the front dash sill was bad, but not this bad....I am committed to this car now, any help from the forum is welcomed.
A friend said we could piece it back together..any other suggestions other than buying another shell
Ted
A friend said we could piece it back together..any other suggestions other than buying another shell
Ted
#5
Ted,
Take a look at this thread as this person is willing to cut up a 71 conv shell that looks to have a very nice dash and cowl.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/parts-sale/46553-71-supreme-convertible-body-shell-aborted-pro-street-project.html
It would be better if it wasn't a conv but I think you can avoid getting into your A Pillars. To fix this you will need to remove the front fenders and hood so you have clear access to the cowl. Better check the sides of your cowl too because if they have rot this conv cowl is nice. If it were me, I would see what this person wanted for the entire front cowl and windshield posts from this conv and get it. That way he can cut it across the floor/rockers and put it on a skid. If your cowl sides are good, you can sell the good ones from the conv cowl. I've seen threads where people need good sides to repair their cowl. It might cost you a few bucks but you would definitely have everthing you need. Just be sure to get a picture with the duct tape along the bottom of the windshield removed so you know that area is good.
Brian
Take a look at this thread as this person is willing to cut up a 71 conv shell that looks to have a very nice dash and cowl.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/parts-sale/46553-71-supreme-convertible-body-shell-aborted-pro-street-project.html
It would be better if it wasn't a conv but I think you can avoid getting into your A Pillars. To fix this you will need to remove the front fenders and hood so you have clear access to the cowl. Better check the sides of your cowl too because if they have rot this conv cowl is nice. If it were me, I would see what this person wanted for the entire front cowl and windshield posts from this conv and get it. That way he can cut it across the floor/rockers and put it on a skid. If your cowl sides are good, you can sell the good ones from the conv cowl. I've seen threads where people need good sides to repair their cowl. It might cost you a few bucks but you would definitely have everthing you need. Just be sure to get a picture with the duct tape along the bottom of the windshield removed so you know that area is good.
Brian
#6
Ted,
I see you contacted the guy about the cowl. I looked at his photos again and it looks like he cut the dash and it appears the top section was cut from the lower. That still may be OK for you as long as the top hasn't been hacked up. Make sure you get a better picture of the top of the dash and one with the tape removed just t be safe.
Brian
I see you contacted the guy about the cowl. I looked at his photos again and it looks like he cut the dash and it appears the top section was cut from the lower. That still may be OK for you as long as the top hasn't been hacked up. Make sure you get a better picture of the top of the dash and one with the tape removed just t be safe.
Brian
#7
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Ted, is that a local car? If it is I know what you're going through with the rust issues. My (deceased) 95 Regency Elite spent the first 4 years of it's life in Barrie. Unfortunately it was a death sentence.
I hope you can get that cowl piece. I don't remember if Curtis still has his 72 donor car. I helped him dismantle part of it in March. It had a perfect cowl area and I remember telling him that he should cut that and the rear parcel shelf out because there were always demands for them. Sending you a PM with his home contact, ok? He doesn't get on here all that much. He just found a 68 Buick Electra 225 vert to play with. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...70cutlass.html
I hope you can get that cowl piece. I don't remember if Curtis still has his 72 donor car. I helped him dismantle part of it in March. It had a perfect cowl area and I remember telling him that he should cut that and the rear parcel shelf out because there were always demands for them. Sending you a PM with his home contact, ok? He doesn't get on here all that much. He just found a 68 Buick Electra 225 vert to play with. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...70cutlass.html
#8
Ted,
I see you contacted the guy about the cowl. I looked at his photos again and it looks like he cut the dash and it appears the top section was cut from the lower. That still may be OK for you as long as the top hasn't been hacked up. Make sure you get a better picture of the top of the dash and one with the tape removed just t be safe.
Brian
I see you contacted the guy about the cowl. I looked at his photos again and it looks like he cut the dash and it appears the top section was cut from the lower. That still may be OK for you as long as the top hasn't been hacked up. Make sure you get a better picture of the top of the dash and one with the tape removed just t be safe.
Brian
You are right, the dash plate is not attached, and would have to be welded
I would have to go to Port Huron at the Michigan/Ontario border to pick it up.Wee bit of a hike.
It would be the best thing to do, although the cowl on the car is good...the rust is only on the dash plate....ahh...decisions
#9
Ted, is that a local car? If it is I know what you're going through with the rust issues. My (deceased) 95 Regency Elite spent the first 4 years of it's life in Barrie. Unfortunately it was a death sentence.
I hope you can get that cowl piece. I don't remember if Curtis still has his 72 donor car. I helped him dismantle part of it in March. It had a perfect cowl area and I remember telling him that he should cut that and the rear parcel shelf out because there were always demands for them. Sending you a PM with his home contact, ok? He doesn't get on here all that much. He just found a 68 Buick Electra 225 vert to play with. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...70cutlass.html
I hope you can get that cowl piece. I don't remember if Curtis still has his 72 donor car. I helped him dismantle part of it in March. It had a perfect cowl area and I remember telling him that he should cut that and the rear parcel shelf out because there were always demands for them. Sending you a PM with his home contact, ok? He doesn't get on here all that much. He just found a 68 Buick Electra 225 vert to play with. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...70cutlass.html
Yes, it is a local car...from the Guelph area. This Cutlass is still worth saving, because
1.It is an Oldsmobile
2. I am Irish
I am at this point, tending to lean towards rebuilding it.The cowl and posts are still good.....and a bit of sheet metal, mig,bender and a ball peen hammer should go along way.
Ted
#10
OPGI has that piece, unless it has to be from a donor car.
http://www.opgi.com/p/steel-body-pan...6/CH27865.html
They have the side pieces also.
Hope it helps
http://www.opgi.com/p/steel-body-pan...6/CH27865.html
They have the side pieces also.
Hope it helps
#12
Brian,
You are right, the dash plate is not attached, and would have to be welded
I would have to go to Port Huron at the Michigan/Ontario border to pick it up.Wee bit of a hike.
It would be the best thing to do, although the cowl on the car is good...the rust is only on the dash plate....ahh...decisions
You are right, the dash plate is not attached, and would have to be welded
I would have to go to Port Huron at the Michigan/Ontario border to pick it up.Wee bit of a hike.
It would be the best thing to do, although the cowl on the car is good...the rust is only on the dash plate....ahh...decisions
Brian
#14
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Ted, I was reviewing some of the pics you posted at the start of the thread. You know those 'OLDSMOBILE' valve covers are from a 73 or 74? 72 VCs did not have lettering. You could probably clean them up and sell them to someone who wants the right ones for their ride. I sold a set like that earlier this year to one of our members.
#15
Ted, I was reviewing some of the pics you posted at the start of the thread. You know those 'OLDSMOBILE' valve covers are from a 73 or 74? 72 VCs did not have lettering. You could probably clean them up and sell them to someone who wants the right ones for their ride. I sold a set like that earlier this year to one of our members.
Ted
#16
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Do you remember where to look for the engine stamping plate? That will tell you the year the engine was produced. Does the intake manifold have an EGR or a blocked off EGR? I believe that 73 was the first year that Olds had that. Mind you, that would only tell you about the intake, which could have been replaced. The 350 on my car does have an EGR block off, but it came off a 73 or 74 I think. Got it from a buddy in Airdrie many years ago. He said it came off a wrecked 442.
#19
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Well the block is a typical Olds 350, 8 heads are right for 73 but you might want to change them out:
Engine ID
3 - Olds
3 - 73 model year
M - Lansing
461083 - VIN derivative of donor car. Judging from the high number it would be one of the last of the 73 production?
On the carb - most of those start with 704. The 3 would indicate model year.
eg: for 1972 - 7042250 is my 4bbl. 7042251 is for the 72 455 4bbl.
I have a 73 4bbl QJ for a 455 and it's 7043251. Check yours again - see if that J isn't a 1.
Check this link from the Carburetor Doctor: http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/c...ile/index.html
Smog heads. Have huge bb-sized 79cc chambers yielding poor compression ratios without extremes of compensation.
3 - Olds
3 - 73 model year
M - Lansing
461083 - VIN derivative of donor car. Judging from the high number it would be one of the last of the 73 production?
On the carb - most of those start with 704. The 3 would indicate model year.
eg: for 1972 - 7042250 is my 4bbl. 7042251 is for the 72 455 4bbl.
I have a 73 4bbl QJ for a 455 and it's 7043251. Check yours again - see if that J isn't a 1.
Check this link from the Carburetor Doctor: http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/c...ile/index.html
#20
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Ted, not sure where you found 'dual exhausts' on that engine. I don't think a LC 350 would have them. This is more likely a single exhaust 160 hp LC that the owner had converted to duals with those headers.
#23
Well the block is a typical Olds 350, 8 heads are right for 73 but you might want to change them out:
Engine ID
3 - Olds
3 - 73 model year
M - Lansing
461083 - VIN derivative of donor car. Judging from the high number it would be one of the last of the 73 production?
On the carb - most of those start with 704. The 3 would indicate model year.
eg: for 1972 - 7042250 is my 4bbl. 7042251 is for the 72 455 4bbl.
I have a 73 4bbl QJ for a 455 and it's 7043251. Check yours again - see if that J isn't a 1.
Check this link from the Carburetor Doctor: http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/c...ile/index.html
Carb number is 7043250' not J
Ted
Engine ID
3 - Olds
3 - 73 model year
M - Lansing
461083 - VIN derivative of donor car. Judging from the high number it would be one of the last of the 73 production?
On the carb - most of those start with 704. The 3 would indicate model year.
eg: for 1972 - 7042250 is my 4bbl. 7042251 is for the 72 455 4bbl.
I have a 73 4bbl QJ for a 455 and it's 7043251. Check yours again - see if that J isn't a 1.
Check this link from the Carburetor Doctor: http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/c...ile/index.html
Carb number is 7043250' not J
Ted
#25
Finally got around to windshield cowel repair....more like replace I was motivated by another CO member that posted their cowel repair that looked great!
Just a few pics ......
First pic...what was there,or was not depending how you look at it.
Second to fourth pic....After cutting and grinding , the new piece from John in Oregon(thanks John or 2blu442), was fitted into place.
Next step is welding and refining cut lines...but it is a start!
I will prolly pull this motor and put in a 72 455 that i have that is in good running order
Ted
Just a few pics ......
First pic...what was there,or was not depending how you look at it.
Second to fourth pic....After cutting and grinding , the new piece from John in Oregon(thanks John or 2blu442), was fitted into place.
Next step is welding and refining cut lines...but it is a start!
I will prolly pull this motor and put in a 72 455 that i have that is in good running order
Ted
#26
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Looking good Ted. That car owes you it's life. A 455 sounds like the perfect touch to that car! Looking forward to the thread updates. BTW, your pictures are a lot better now. Did you get a new camera for Christmas?
#27
A couple of pics of 72 455 i picked up that will replace the 350. This motor was rebuilt and used for about 1000 miles .The previous owner yanked it and replaced with a 350 as he was going on a roadtrip and wanted better mileage....that is the story i was told anyway. It did not escape the blue brush paintjob
Pretty clean...will open and post pics
Ted
Pretty clean...will open and post pics
Ted
#28
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
What the heck??? Chevy orange?
Doesn't look like an engine that was freshly rebuilt with only 1000 miles on it. Wutchu going to do with it? Tear down or just paint it and plant it?
Doesn't look like an engine that was freshly rebuilt with only 1000 miles on it. Wutchu going to do with it? Tear down or just paint it and plant it?
#29
never judge a cheap book by cover
That is actually what the guy primed it with......then he got his paintbrush out. Seals are new, oil pan and i can see the original 455 blue under the primer.
I have no reson not to believe the seller. He is very active in a big car club here, and is very reputable.
It came with everything but carb( have a spare) and a temp sensor....so for 300 bones i decided i could not go wrong..
If i have time, i will open-prolly should-if not then yes, i will paint and plop .
Ted
I have no reson not to believe the seller. He is very active in a big car club here, and is very reputable.
It came with everything but carb( have a spare) and a temp sensor....so for 300 bones i decided i could not go wrong..
If i have time, i will open-prolly should-if not then yes, i will paint and plop .
Ted
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