Part 2, bought a 65 442 Club Coupe
#84
nice details like reapplying the original stickers everything is looking great.
also thanks for showing how you straightened out the dash that will look good when its all together
is this the gibbs brand you used ? That will prevent rusting on bare metal ?
also thanks for showing how you straightened out the dash that will look good when its all together
is this the gibbs brand you used ? That will prevent rusting on bare metal ?
Last edited by RetroRanger; November 22nd, 2012 at 08:11 PM.
#85
Yes Gibbs Brand. I found a can on my old mans shelf. He used it to try to free up an old Caddy engine. You have to reapply it every so often to keep the metal saturated. But from what Ive read guys have put it on wheels and 5 years later they are still nice.
#86
60 degrees yesterday and 40s with snow today. Had to spray the bottom today so I fired up the heater and did my best. Ran it directly on the frame to get some heat into the metal. Frame is now completely primed, kinda wish this was the final coat. Color matches damn well.
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#88
Had the front backing plates replated in silver zinc. Got them back today.
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#90
Finished up the front brakes, well theyre not on the frame yet but close enough.
Before..
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After..
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Before..
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After..
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#92
Original alternator worked great but as I found when I took it off, the upper mounting ear was broke. Figured it was scrap but Ken Bruno, who restores alternators, said it wouldnt be a problem to fix. He tig welded and machined it back to normal. Cant tell it was ever broken.
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#94
Small things starting to add up. Not much more I can do before getting to the bigger things like bodywork and paint. Maybe start on the rear end and drive shaft.
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#96
#97
Painted the frame and started putting the suspension back on this week.
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#99
Hey Jasen, Everything is looking great!!! You have a real talent there my friend, and I am always eager to see any progress updates. Have you started the body work? Any final color decisions? I know the "guts" will be red, but what about outside? Any chance of a two-tone?
#101
Thanks guys. Got the drums painted today. After 50 years good drums are hard to find. Might have to stock up on them for the future.
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#102
Awesome project
Your progress is nearly as quick as the photo shift in your signature icon...WOW! Damn sharp work sir. I'd wish you good luck but it appears you already have it all . Brett
#103
Got the springs installed, what a pain in the ***. Drivers side took all afternoon, first spring compressor wouldnt come out after the I put the spring in. Second one wouldnt compress it enough. It took 6 45lb plates, some tires, a head, and myself to get it far enough into the ball joint to start the nut. Nicked up the control arm and the spring pretty good. Other side took 5 minutes, no nicks at all. Must have been the all day practice on the other side.
Last edited by TK-65; October 18th, 2013 at 08:18 PM.
#104
Sure looks nice!
Little tip for you, next time around-
Try to only use the upper half of the compressor, and thread the rod DOWN through the upper shock hole, and use the compressor to pull the spring up into the frame socket.
Works like a charm, and you don't have to look for heavy things to put on the car to give it weight if the engines out- or fight with getting the upper and lower set of compressor fingers to stay put while you tighten it up.
Little tip for you, next time around-
Try to only use the upper half of the compressor, and thread the rod DOWN through the upper shock hole, and use the compressor to pull the spring up into the frame socket.
Works like a charm, and you don't have to look for heavy things to put on the car to give it weight if the engines out- or fight with getting the upper and lower set of compressor fingers to stay put while you tighten it up.
Last edited by RAMBOW; October 19th, 2013 at 09:54 PM.
#105
Sure looks nice!
Little tip for you, next time around-
Try to only use the upper half of the compressor, and thread the rod DOWN through the upper shock hole, and use the compressor to pull the spring up into the frame socket.
Works like a charm, and you don't have to look for heavy things to put on the car to give it weight if the engines out- or fight with getting the upper and lower set of compressor fingers to stay put while you tighten it up.
Little tip for you, next time around-
Try to only use the upper half of the compressor, and thread the rod DOWN through the upper shock hole, and use the compressor to pull the spring up into the frame socket.
Works like a charm, and you don't have to look for heavy things to put on the car to give it weight if the engines out- or fight with getting the upper and lower set of compressor fingers to stay put while you tighten it up.
Got the drums on the front. Moving on to the rear end now. Will be much easier to move around once I get it rolling again.
Decals are ultra-high-compression.com exclusives.
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Rear end waiting for a new posi and new paint.
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Last edited by TK-65; October 26th, 2013 at 04:41 PM.
#110
Fuel line and brake lines installed.
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Clips came painted red, but originally they were green phosphate. Ordered a can of Moeller Zinc Chromate primer off Amazon to make them correct.
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Rear upper arms are on, stamped PONT.
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Lower arms are nice used Pontiac Tempest arms I got from Franks Pontiac parts out in California. Unboxed with no holes for a sway bar. I had to drill the holes to make them work. Thats after they received new bushings. The burn method worked great for getting the rubber insert out. Need to get the boxed inserts welded it then I can paint them.
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Rear backing plates are cleaned and painted, ready for brakes.
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Clips came painted red, but originally they were green phosphate. Ordered a can of Moeller Zinc Chromate primer off Amazon to make them correct.
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Rear upper arms are on, stamped PONT.
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Lower arms are nice used Pontiac Tempest arms I got from Franks Pontiac parts out in California. Unboxed with no holes for a sway bar. I had to drill the holes to make them work. Thats after they received new bushings. The burn method worked great for getting the rubber insert out. Need to get the boxed inserts welded it then I can paint them.
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Rear backing plates are cleaned and painted, ready for brakes.
#113
just checking up on your thread and had to laugh a little about the pain in the butt front spring install. it reminded me of the front springs I just put in my 57 chevy. they were about 5 inches taller than the stockers to get the nose up in the air {gasser look} that was a real party!!! anyway the chassis looks top notch. btw are the ball joints ILT with the look alike rivits?
#114
#115
#117
Sent out the steering gear to Chip @ Powersteering.com Looks perfect and should perform as new. He also restored the Pittman arm and the not reproduced manual rag joint for free. Box is dated A3574, first shift December 23rd 1964.
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#118
Cleaned and primed the rear end. Bought a 3.90 posi set for it and hope to get it installed this week. Once the gear is in Ill paint the housing. No use painting it then having the axle shop scrape it up on the workbench.
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#119
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