Oldsmaniac

Doing exhaust is not fun, wrestled some more today. Rear hangers needed extensions as with a regular exhaust/U clamp the over axle pipe is about to hit the floor above. Got things looking better and all should be well when its time to clamp. The big fight today was making studs for the clutch fan and Ebay spacer. Seems when I try and make threads on the head end of bolts that I beheaded, the threads get cut to one side and not perfectly centered. This causes the stud to act like its bent and the studs dont turn in straight. So after a few attempts I got some to work. Ane after all that I see the longer studs can be found on Ebay! Only problem now is I need to remove radiator to get the new clutch fan assembly onto the studs. Got some little things done, filled rear with gear oil, installed repop reverse light switch assembly but need to secure the actuator rod for it.

Chesrown 67 OAI

Joe ---- go to hardware store and buy the correct length allen socket machine set screws for your fan/waterpump studs. Problem solved! Spacer must be too long! You shouldnt have to remeove radiator to get the clutch fan on the pump! Try a shorter one and you wont have that problem!! You gotta be too close to radiator if it wont slide down in there unless of course the studs are sticking out too far! LOL

patmills

Joe

What is the diameter of your fan and are you installing a shroud?

Pat Mills

Oldsmaniac

Tweed a bolt wont work cause the fan clutch assembly does not allow enough room to get the bolt thru. I need like 2.25 length. The 1 inch spacer puts the fan blades inside the shroud so as not to be a danger to fingers. I have room between radiator and front of clutch. I may shorten my home made studs a little and then I may have enough room to get the fan/clutch assembly on by tilting the radiator back and away. All of my problems are because I have the short water pump for a non ac car and am putting an AC shroud on and clutch fan. I need the short waterpump so my pulley lines up.

Oldsmaniac

I did not measure the clutch fan but it fits inside the shroud with no danger of hitting the opening. It is off a 66 Delta, I have a 7 blade one from a 67 toro but the diameter is smaller than the one I want to use. I also have an aluminum fan assembly off a later Delta but it is a larger diameter and is very close to scraping the shroud so I wont use it. Yes I am using a 67 factory shroud.

patmills

Joe

Where did you get your shroud?

My '66 442 did not have a shroud on it when I got it so am wanting to put one on. I bought a shroud from Supercars for a '66 442 but it only fits an 18 inch fan or smaller. My clutch fan does not fit this shroud as it is 19 inch. I have decided that I will get an 18 inch fan to solve the problem.

I had also considered two electric fans but would rather stay with a clutch fan if I can.

Pat

Chesrown 67 OAI

Joe -- I said get machine SET SCREWS - (no heads -- all thread with allen socket in head. If they are 1/4-28 - then 1/4-28 nuts screw right on. And you even end up with grade 8 studs!! you can screw them in to the exact depth you need!

Oldsmaniac

Now I follow, headless allen bolt studs.... They are 5/16 fine that go into water pump and would like a thread stop there like factory. I can get my studs to work thanks for the advice though... I will get it licked!

Oldsmaniac

I got the shroud froma friend who parted some 67's...they are hard to find. I can try and measure next time I am there. As I said since this car was a non AC carit did not have a shroud or clutch fan....this is why I need a spacer. The fan stuck too far out of the shroud.

Oldsmaniac

Just had Saturday to play this week... The clutch fan assembly with spacer is finally finished. I even foud the correct length belt in the shop so that is on there. I also secured the actuator rod for the reverse light switch. Soon I hope to fire the engine. Am kinda scared/apprehensive (as usual) because my assembly prowess will be tested and would sure hate for something to go Boom! LoL. But I am the nervous type and a second guesser anyway, hopefully all SHOULD go well. I need to get a battery, hook up an oil pressure gauge and water temp gauge. I spent time stripping parts off the aqua parts car. Its carcass has been picked pretty good and I must carve it up to be hauled away for scrap. Its a shame to trash the frame but ya cant even give em away unless it was a conv frame.

Oldsmaniac

The fan I used is 19 inches amd the shroud about a 21 inch opening.

MDchanic

Lookin' good, Joe!

That fan looks like it fits like a glove.

- Eric

Oldsmaniac

Thanks Eric, I am happy with the fit! I cant believe how far I have come with the project yet still a far way to go dollar wise and with the paint!

Oldsmaniac

Winter came back today it seems, the wood stove was brought back to life. Today I rounded up the front bumper brackets and cleaned and painted them. I realized that most mechanicals are now complete. I need to fabricate some temporary braces for the radiator support since the fenders are off. I would not want it to move/rock and the fan possibly hit the radiator. The front seat was dropped off at the upholstery shop along with the PUI covers. I still am not happy with the pearly finish on these repro covers but for now they will have to do. I will post pictures when it is done. The seat has a strong moldy odor to it. I told them to re-foam it and get rid of anything that would generate the smell. The rear seat will get done after I get this one back due to finances. I also contacted SMS in Oregon to do the door and rear panels. They are heat stamped vinyl and few shops can duplicate these. I need to mail off the trim as when I get them back they will be ready to install. Only problem is it may take till August before they are completed. No biggie though as I dont know if the paint will be done by then.

Oldsmaniac

Well the grass has start growing again and it's time for spring cleanup around the house and good weather projects abound. No word on the front seat recover yet, I rounded up the back seat and will drop that one off this week while I check on the front. I went to Carlisle yesterday and dropped off my bumpers to Tri City plating. It will be 450 each bumper and I expect to pick them up finished at the fall swap. It would be great if I needed em sooner but I doubt that will happen. I hooked up the oil pressure gauge and am close to having a water temp one too. I pre-lubed the engine and dropped in the distributer. I expect to break in the engine soon. Will pre lube just before attempting to fire. This will be exciting!

Ranzan

Joe do you mind me asking what you paid for the door panels? I might have to get SMS to make some rears for me

Oldsmaniac

Wes I just ordered them and my originals which they need the trim off of have not made it there yet. I believe I was quoted around 600 for the 2dr and 2 rear side panels. I am not sure exactly the cost as it was some time ago I was quoted the price and now maybe a year later the order. They are slow as I said I would like them by August and they said to be sure to state that when ordering...Call them and they can quote you a price. I also sent my originals so there would be no mistake on the duplication process and possibly the 2 tone appearance.

As for the project I am cleaning the backs of the fenders getting them ready for black epoxy primer sealer and am stripping the outer sides of the fenders and working out some small dings. I priced the acrylic PPG lacquer today... 680.00 a gallon....WOW! I would not feel safe without 2 gallons!

ROCKET VAPOR

Wow!!!, why so much???

Is it a rare metallic, or is acrylic lacquer just getting hard to come by like R-12???

Oldsmaniac

There are very few companies that sell/produce lacquer these days. It was scheduled to be phased out but it is still around. It is not used much anymore so I believe this is why the price is so high. Limited supply and little demand. It can be gotten cheaper (generic) but not in specific factory colors. At least this is what I have found and I wish to have the factory color on the car. I did my 66 Sfire about 6 years ago and it was 250 a gallon.

MDchanic

When I painted my Chevelle I think I paid $32.00 a gallon, but that was, ahem, about thirty years ago .

In all seriousness, though, I like lacquer - it's easy to mix and spray, easy to sand, and it's very forgiving. These modern 2-part paints are a pain in the @$$, and they'll kill you if you breathe them in.

- Eric

Ranzan

You have made great progress Joe .. I need to get my butt in gear with the mechanical soon
680 a gallon is alot to swallow but I think your right for using it. It should be a stunning car when finished

ROCKET VAPOR

I guess I had better start looking for a gallon or two of the Rallye Red acrylic lacquer paint for my '70, since I want original paint back on her.

Oldsmaniac

Wes thanks for the encouragement, seems like any progress is subject to what's in your wallet! Actually Spanish Red is not a favorite of mine.....seems so many are red. I was at an Olds show a few years ago and out of the 4 or 5 67's that were there 3 were red. I am a slave to correctness and originality and at least mine is a factory R-R car. I am hoping all goes well with the paint mix and application..... I must remember to think ahead and take my time. Been following your progress as well. Great to have the body on the frame I bet!

Oldsmaniac

Ok was thinking about what battery to get for the project. I found an optima style sealed battery in a 67 GM Delco repro case. Pretty cool and since the battery is trunk mounted it would be nice if it had a era look to it. As usual, anything I want for this car is pricey. $229 plus 38 shipping from Speedway Motors Shop. It has 720 cranking amps which should be sufficient. It needs no vent but I will dummy vent it for looks. I called today about the front seat. It should be finished next week. They said they had a struggle with fitting the PUI covers..... why am I not surprised!? They assured me the seat would look great when they got finished!

MDchanic

Nice battery.

No question, Optimas are the best, and if you can get one that looks original, so much the better!

- Eric

Oldsmaniac

Wes my visa bill just came and it looks like 816.00 for the 2 door panels and rear side panels. Yes they charge the credit card way before they panels are even started but I guess they dont want to be stuck with them so get the $ up front.

I was not happy with the T fitting I tried to use to connect a temp gauge and factory dash light sender at the water jacket on the intake. The original 67 intake only has one port for water sensing. I am going to try and install a port on the back of the thermostat housing..... will see how that goes. My battery is not here yet anyway. Both fenders are stripped and was happy to find only a few minor dings and little bondo on them after the paint was stripped. I still need a little bondo on these areas.

Chesrown 67 OAI

Joe -
Here's the "cheap" way i fixed my E-brake cable length. It saved about $70 bux and a lot of work replacing both the front and intermediate brake cable. I had told you that I thought i could solve the problem if i had a shorter intermediate cable without having to change BOTH the FRONT and intermediate cables. It aint "pretty" but the brake works fine. Just put three knots in the cable to get it at the length i needed to make it work. As you can see, I was even able to route it correctly through the crossmember. I suppose if i shopped hard I could find some GM application that has an intermediate cable that would work for me? Maybe a Nova or Camaro? For now its gonna stay like this.
P.S. Got it running and made a maiden voyage around the block on friday. Had to do a few burnouts in the driveway too!! No Pix yet -- maybe by weeks end? Pix wont upload for some odd reason today. Keep getting error message that upload has failed?? Whats up with that? I dont know! I'll email you the pix -- maybe they will post for you? and you can add them.

Oldsmaniac

Tweed, here is a picture of your knots. Simple fix and I guess it works but it looks like ballz. Lol..... yeah my cable is stretched too. I thought maybe a small piece of steel brake line with the cable end inserted and brazed in may work and resemble factory end??

Your pictures too large to load, needed resizing....

Chesrown 67 OAI

Heres the rest of them? I just figured out how to resize them. Ugh!

GTI_Guru

I've seen that done before to fix "stretched cable" issues. Also seen them break at the knot area soon after that. It works for a while, but doing that to a cable negates the strength greatly in that area. Do your best to keep them rust/corrosion free and that will help, but it's not usually a long-time fix. Just temporary. You may have to keep on the lookout for a new/replacement set if you use the parking brake often.

-Jeff

Oldsmaniac

I found a cast iron water neck on Ebay, of course I paid too much for it but I think will do nicely for my water temp sending unit. I drilled and tapped 1/4 pipe threads in it for a bushing that will accept the 1/8 sender. It is almost like the housing was designed for it with extra casting and a flat spot in the area.

Oldsmaniac

I often go to flea markets and have a few old car mags that feature 67 442's. I get some of my drive and ideas for my project from them. Among my favorites are June '68 American Rodding that features the 67 Brainbeau 442, Super Stock & Drag Illustrated Aug. 1967 with a 67 on the cover and test inside. I have the 67 Hot Rod with the 4 of a kind article, and a Hi Performance Cars from Oct. 1967 featuring a ram air 442! Interesting reading even today. For the most part all the articles gave the car a thumbs up and said traction was a problem!

Oldsmaniac

67 Brainbeau Article

mrgm

thanks for the articles. That's some cool stuff there

Oldsmaniac

Your Welcome, I love that kind of stuff..... You can find the vintage magazines on Ebay but the American Rodding one is pretty scarce.

Oldsmaniac

Had fun today, skipped work and put the repo battery in the 442. Man it looks nice and vintage sitting there. Tried the lights and key and the starter will turn. As soon as I get my temp gauge hooked in I will fire off the 400!

MDchanic

All right!!

- Eric

Ranzan

Get the guage and lets go!!!!! lol k a little over the top. but post the vid when you have it running..............

Oldsmaniac

Wes, I need a sender for the gauge and wont have it till next week, I hope! Yeah hope to get some video but will burn it should there be a problem with the engine! LOL Fiddled some more with the electrical system. Wiper motor may be seized as it blows the fuse as soon as it is tried. Guess thats why wires were cut under dash for wiper switch? No gen light or panel/dash lights. Blinkers work and 4 way flasher. Heater fan works and emergency brake lamp. Battery died in volt meter. I wanted to check for 12v at coil with key on. Got to get the meter working and go back and see maybe I dont have a good ground to the dash...

Oldsmaniac

Tightened some grounds on the dash and I got dash lights and the cigarette lighter working now. Have 12v to coil with key on. Still no dash light for gen and no dome light. Have power there but apparently no ground. Bulbs are good. Looked briefly at wireing schematic and says power goes from ignition switch thru lamp and then to #4 terminal on voltage regulator. I have power to that terminal.... Got to research some more and see why dome lamp wont light and no oil light. This may be due to the teflon tape used on it. Will ground that wire and see if bulb lights. Have brake lights as well but need to adjust the switch as the plunger is not touching pedal.