New Project 67 Trac Pac
May 1st, 2012, 07:10 PM
#361
Whelk thanks:-) when I was doing my car I had everything hung and aligned and adjusted and I also used a long AFS sanding block from Eastwood and worked down the whole car as if it was one single panel. If you look at the pics of my car the reflection flows from one end to the other. You will see what I mean. It makes a big difference.
May 11th, 2012, 07:07 PM
#362
Not a lot of progress still but body is nearing primer stage. I hope within the month to begin on that. There are few things left to purchase now which is good. I will need a headliner when the car is up and running. At a swap last week I got a pair of repro front door armrests for 30 bucks and got the pads off Ebay for 34 bucks. They were a little tricky to install and the 2 mounting screws help greatly getting the pads to pull in and tight to the base. They came out good and will match the seat covers. While at carlisle swap I purchased a correct color glovebox door as mine had 2 hair line cracks in it and I feared it may get worse. It matches the dash pad I tinted pretty well. I also picked up the correct style and color steering wheel. It has a few cracks but is pretty nice for the 100 I paid for it. I will put it away for now as I am happy with the F85 wheel that is on there now.
Last edited by Oldsmaniac; May 23rd, 2012 at 12:56 PM. Reason: spelling
June 5th, 2012, 07:53 AM
#363
Some primering has begun. I have the top cowl piece ready for color as well as fender front caps. The trunklid, both sides is also ready for color and I did use 5 coats of primer with wet sanding in between. I guide coated it and wet sanded that with 600. It looks really good. This weekend I hope to put final coats of primer on the front fenders and wet sand and guide coat. I decided to use one of my better hoods as the one I had planned to use just has too many repairs for my liking. So I will need to strip that one yet. Then I can move to primering the body. Its true what they say about prep work, its all about that with the color coat being just "dressing".
June 24th, 2012, 02:16 PM
#364
It took long enough with all the coats of primer and wet sanding and guide coat but the trunklid, hood, and fenders are ready for color. The louvers on the hood takes some time to work with as well. Next weekend I hope to start primering the body. The weekend is the only time I am able to get away and put some time in on the project.
June 25th, 2012, 06:07 AM
#365
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 1,204
Not a lot of progress still but body is nearing primer stage. I hope within the month to begin on that. There are few things left to purchase now which is good. I will need a headliner when the car is up and running. At a swap last week I got a pair of repro front door armrests for 30 bucks and got the pads off Ebay for 34 bucks. They were a little tricky to install and the 2 mounting screws help greatly getting the pads to pull in and tight to the base. They came out good and will match the seat covers. While at carlisle swap I purchased a correct color glovebox door as mine had 2 hair line cracks in it and I feared it may get worse. It matches the dash pad I tinted pretty well. I also picked up the correct style and color steering wheel. It has a few cracks but is pretty nice for the 100 I paid for it. I will put it away for now as I am happy with the F85 wheel that is on there now.
July 4th, 2012, 07:50 PM
#367
Ok, am nearing the color stage! Just about finished with all the primering. Have to wipe down some sanding mud yet and the roof needs another coat of primer and guide coat. If someone asks if painting is a lot of work just say yes! Especially it is for a non professional like me. The guide coat process did point out a few high spots and lows....it works!
Last edited by Oldsmaniac; July 6th, 2012 at 10:39 AM. Reason: spelling
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July 6th, 2012, 01:32 PM
#369
Thanks Tom, am trying my best for the DVOC fall Olds show in Downington Pa. , would be a major happening if the car was done by then/October!! Of course are they ever really done?!
The old Lottery Mega Mil ads make great masking material and I got em at no cost!
The old Lottery Mega Mil ads make great masking material and I got em at no cost!
July 7th, 2012, 02:39 PM
#372
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: HOUSTON TX.
Posts: 116
I 'm with you guys. I'm in the last stages of my frame off on my 67 442. I tried my best to finish it before my wife passed away a few weeks ago. But it was not to be.
She fought the good fight but cancer is a tough one to beat. So now it's a tribute car
to her. Calling it CAROL'S CUTLASS. For the 38 years of love we had for each other.
She fought the good fight but cancer is a tough one to beat. So now it's a tribute car
to her. Calling it CAROL'S CUTLASS. For the 38 years of love we had for each other.
July 7th, 2012, 04:27 PM
#373
I 'm with you guys. I'm in the last stages of my frame off on my 67 442. I tried my best to finish it before my wife passed away a few weeks ago. But it was not to be.
She fought the good fight but cancer is a tough one to beat. So now it's a tribute car
to her. Calling it CAROL'S CUTLASS. For the 38 years of love we had for each other.
She fought the good fight but cancer is a tough one to beat. So now it's a tribute car
to her. Calling it CAROL'S CUTLASS. For the 38 years of love we had for each other.
July 7th, 2012, 04:43 PM
#374
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: HOUSTON TX.
Posts: 116
Thank you. What makes this car so special is that my Dad and I worked at Oldsmobile in 1967. We most likely built this car origiinalty. So it makes it so special to me. Not many people can say that. I got to build it twice. maybe to correct my first mistakes i made on it.
LOL.
LOL.
July 15th, 2012, 01:45 PM
#375
Its been a long time coming but I am seeing red! And that is a good thing. First coat went on nice. I figure I got about 4 more coats to go. Have not gotten to fenders, hood trunk lid yet. Am hoping for a nice day when I can spray outside. If not when the body is done I will roll out the car and do those pieces then. I hear lacquer does not like humidity...
July 16th, 2012, 05:58 AM
#377
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 1,204
Its been a long time coming but I am seeing red! And that is a good thing. First coat went on nice. I figure I got about 4 more coats to go. Have not gotten to fenders, hood trunk lid yet. Am hoping for a nice day when I can spray outside. If not when the body is done I will roll out the car and do those pieces then. I hear lacquer does not like humidity...
July 16th, 2012, 09:47 AM
#378
Thanks Eric and Tweed, in the picts the car looks orangey. In daylight it is a good match to the original Spanish Red. I wish I had more time too keep at it. Maybe some vacation time is in order!!
July 23rd, 2012, 05:42 PM
#381
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
Joe, the progress is looking good. Been watching for a while but thought I would jump in. When spraying lacquer with humidity, you need to use a slow drying thinner to keep the paint from getting a fog to it. There was a paint "retarder" that was sold and this helped greatly with the problem. Some of this was mixed into the color/thinner mix. If a fog started to develop, the retarder could be sprayed straight (misted) onto the paint and the fog would go away in many cases. You just needed to catch it before the paint was dry. You might want to check to see if your paint supplier can help with a retarder and if not, use the best and slowest thinner available and don't put down real heavy coats. The heavy coats trap the humidity and then the fog starts to appear.
Brian
Brian
July 23rd, 2012, 06:08 PM
#382
Brian, thanks for the info. I only spray on lower humidity days and cooler temps say in the low or mid 80's. The thinner is the slowest they make and called high gloss. It is the same brand as the paint. I can tell you I am no body man or painter and this is the second time I have sprayed lacquer. The first time was with PPG and I did not have a fog problem spraying in summer without concern or knowledge. Now with this one i am taking humidity into concern and so far there has not been a problem. Now maybe you could suggest what grit to sand between coats and after final coats.... was thinking 1200 or 1500 after last coat then buff? Now that I am nearing final coats I will use 1000 in between. Does this seem right? I also have been thinning 1-1 ratio. Should final coats be thinner say 2 parts thinner to 1 part paint? Seems on the net the info varies greatly. Thanks Joe
July 24th, 2012, 06:39 AM
#383
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
Let me ask a question first...are you going to spray any clear over the red or just go with red?
Given what you've posted, I'm going to assume you will not use any clear and will base my response on that assumption. If it were me, I would not spend the time sanding the color between coats. Yes, it smooths it a little but you can accomplish that at the end too. Additionally, red paint isn't cheap (actually no quality paint is cheap) and when you sand between coats you are just removing paint that will eventually need to be put back on to get the correct desired build up to allow for final sanding and buffing. Since you have 2 coats on there now, I would sand what you have with 800 grit or 600 would also be fine. Don't used 1000 as I feel that is too fine right now for the paint to get a good bond. With the sanding done, everything cleaned with wax and grease remover and tacked off, I would spray 4 more coats of color and spray it at the manufacturer's recommendations which I assume is 1:1. Let each coat dry to the point that the paint on any masking paper is not tacky and in today's temperatures, that may be about 15 minutes. Watch your overlap when spraying and you want to overlap each pass by 50%. Watch the speed at which you move as moving too fast will leave the paint somewhat rough and will not put down a correct thickness which will create a need for more coats. If at the end of this, you feel there is enough paint on the car and it looks pretty good, you could call the spraying complete. You could also sand the car again with 800 grit and spray down 2 more coats which could be thinned at 1.5:1 for the first and then 2:1 for the last. It will leave a smoother finish which will make final sandinging easier but you don't have to. Once you are done with the color, I would let it dry for several days. For finishing, I would sand with 1000, again with 1500 and finish with 2000. Use a rubber squeege and wipe it across the areas as you sand until the surface is smooth. Be careful around edges as it is easy to sand through them and to buff through them. I still like to use a wool pad for the cutting compound and then the foam pads for polishing. Keep the buffer speeds low (I usually buff at 1000 RPM) and take your time and work in small sections.
Painting is all about "feel" and it takes time to get that feel when you spray. So it's hard to know exactly how one person sprays without seeing them do it. Fortunately, lacquer is very forgiving and easy to fix if a problem comes up. When you spray the other parts, pay attention to the direction you spray them. On the fender, spray front to back since that is likely what you did for the door. Same with the hood. Even though you are spraying a solid color, I would still try to keep the spray pattern the same direction between matching panels to make the color uniform looking. This is more of an issue with metallic colors but it's just good practice to be consistent with your spraying.
Yes, painting is a lot of work and most of that effort is in prep. The better you do as you go along, the better the final result.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I was at the DVOC fall show last year (walking around) and I may try to go again this year. Let me know if you will be there and maybe we can bump into each other.
Brian
Given what you've posted, I'm going to assume you will not use any clear and will base my response on that assumption. If it were me, I would not spend the time sanding the color between coats. Yes, it smooths it a little but you can accomplish that at the end too. Additionally, red paint isn't cheap (actually no quality paint is cheap) and when you sand between coats you are just removing paint that will eventually need to be put back on to get the correct desired build up to allow for final sanding and buffing. Since you have 2 coats on there now, I would sand what you have with 800 grit or 600 would also be fine. Don't used 1000 as I feel that is too fine right now for the paint to get a good bond. With the sanding done, everything cleaned with wax and grease remover and tacked off, I would spray 4 more coats of color and spray it at the manufacturer's recommendations which I assume is 1:1. Let each coat dry to the point that the paint on any masking paper is not tacky and in today's temperatures, that may be about 15 minutes. Watch your overlap when spraying and you want to overlap each pass by 50%. Watch the speed at which you move as moving too fast will leave the paint somewhat rough and will not put down a correct thickness which will create a need for more coats. If at the end of this, you feel there is enough paint on the car and it looks pretty good, you could call the spraying complete. You could also sand the car again with 800 grit and spray down 2 more coats which could be thinned at 1.5:1 for the first and then 2:1 for the last. It will leave a smoother finish which will make final sandinging easier but you don't have to. Once you are done with the color, I would let it dry for several days. For finishing, I would sand with 1000, again with 1500 and finish with 2000. Use a rubber squeege and wipe it across the areas as you sand until the surface is smooth. Be careful around edges as it is easy to sand through them and to buff through them. I still like to use a wool pad for the cutting compound and then the foam pads for polishing. Keep the buffer speeds low (I usually buff at 1000 RPM) and take your time and work in small sections.
Painting is all about "feel" and it takes time to get that feel when you spray. So it's hard to know exactly how one person sprays without seeing them do it. Fortunately, lacquer is very forgiving and easy to fix if a problem comes up. When you spray the other parts, pay attention to the direction you spray them. On the fender, spray front to back since that is likely what you did for the door. Same with the hood. Even though you are spraying a solid color, I would still try to keep the spray pattern the same direction between matching panels to make the color uniform looking. This is more of an issue with metallic colors but it's just good practice to be consistent with your spraying.
Yes, painting is a lot of work and most of that effort is in prep. The better you do as you go along, the better the final result.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I was at the DVOC fall show last year (walking around) and I may try to go again this year. Let me know if you will be there and maybe we can bump into each other.
Brian
July 24th, 2012, 07:30 AM
#384
Great info, thanks. No clear going on and will follow finish sand procedure, 1000 1500 2000. I know to keep buff slow and always moving and avoid ridges. Thanks for taking the time for your response. I always look forward to the DVOC show for sure we should meet!
July 29th, 2012, 04:29 PM
#385
Well the NJ humidity and heat has been slowing progress. This weekend was bad so no real progress has been made. In the workshop things are tight. I have 3 coats on the body but want to put the remaining 3 coats on outside where I can see what I am doing! The hood and fenders have 4 coats on and are looking nice. I am choosing to scuff sand between coats with 800. It does take any overspray dust off and smoothes the few tiny dirt specs that seem to appear from who knows where. I do strain the paint before putting it in the spray gun and wipe off the parts right before. Overall I think it is coming out very nice so far but it is starting to get repetative! I cant wait till I get the final coat on and start the final sanding and buffing then assembly will begin.
August 2nd, 2012, 11:50 AM
#386
Since it is my goal to replicate a vintage stock drag car with my project I thought it would be better to have a transport rig for the further distance shows. Since my project has a 390 rear and repo cheater slicks the highway will not be to its liking. I came across this 67 hauler which I thought was quite cool and era acceptable. I will need to go thru this vehicle as well but figured I better grab it while I can.
Last edited by Oldsmaniac; August 2nd, 2012 at 12:57 PM. Reason: picture
August 2nd, 2012, 12:18 PM
#387
One part at a time
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 167
Since it is my goal to replicate a vintage stock drag car with my project I thought it would be better to have a transport rig for the further distance shows. Since my project has a 390 rear and repo cheater slicks the highway will not be to its liking. I came across this 67 hauler which I thought was quite cool and era acceptable. I will need to go thru this vehicle as well but figured I better grab it while I can.
August 2nd, 2012, 01:34 PM
#389
Ben
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,824
Since it is my goal to replicate a vintage stock drag car with my project I thought it would be better to have a transport rig for the further distance shows. Since my project has a 390 rear and repo cheater slicks the highway will not be to its liking. I came across this 67 hauler which I thought was quite cool and era acceptable. I will need to go thru this vehicle as well but figured I better grab it while I can.
Matching Red w/ gold leaf trim along the fladbed sides would be killer!
August 2nd, 2012, 02:46 PM
#392
Thanks everyone, it was a must have. Originally it was orange, when it comes time for paint I was thinking silver with some black accents or something. Paid 2800 for it. Runs and drives good but is a bit shabby and has a little rot in spots. Its a sb Chebb with 4spd stick.
August 9th, 2012, 08:07 AM
#394
Thanks Jeff, I am happy to say the body is done as far as spraying but the fenders and hood need 2 more coats. Then the labor intensive task of sanding and buffing will begin. I still question if the car will be complete by October and who knows what the truck will need. More likely the Spring show will be a possibility!
August 18th, 2012, 04:00 PM
#395
I am glad to state that the painting is done! I sanded a fender with 1000 then 1500 and buffed to see result. It looked nice but has a slight orange peel if one looked close. I resanded it and buffed again and it came up much better. The other fender I started with 800 then 1000 and then 1500 and this seems to be the trick! I wanted to do the fenders so I can get them mounted. I still need to get to the body and hood. I have found that with the wet sanding the finish is such that little buffing needs to be done to really get a nice finish.
