Its been one of those days today, plan on big moves and little happens. I start off going to 3 stores before I finally find some 3/8 rubber fuel line. I bring my new radiator to find lower outlet tube is 2 sizes too small in diameter. I also find the one side tank is thicker than stock so I need to lengthen the brackets top and bottom and dont have the right size rubber mount fillers. I struggled to get the shifter in and now I cant get reverse. Got to look at that some more tomorrow and see if shifter rods line up in neutral. I took the carpet down to make a hole for shifter so when the time coms I can drop the carpet over shifter anf finish cutting the hole. Man it looked nice sittin there.

 

Sorry to hear about the slow goin', but it's llokin' sharp, Joe!

- Eric

 

Have you seen the red 67 442 on ebay, it has the battery in the trunk, but can't see that it ever had the cold air inlets around the head lights.

 

Sorry here's the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

Yep, I looked at that car good. W30 red wells, looks like correct battery in trunk set up. W30's got chrome valve covers. Ground strap looks legit on engine. Maybe front was crashed and new support installed. Build date looks good. Only I am not sure that a 67 could have power brakes and power steering so I have my doubts about it being a real W30 and a Trac Pac would not have chrome valve covers or red wells.....

 

I thought you probably already had the hairy eyeball on that one.
I have been watching your work on here, you have the energy that I wish I could have again.

 

Shifter still giving me trouble. Played with the rod lengths today as it seems 1st and 3rd gear barely hold but 2nd and 4th go in gear deeply.... will see. Patched the white fender today. I cut a piece of rocker panel off the green 4dr and zapped it in.

 

It's the little things that hold up the works. I unloaded the 350 out of the white parts car today to MDchanic. I hope Eric puts it to good use, thanks. I found that when I welded the wider radiator mounts they were not in the right position. The top one needs to come over slightly and the bottom one moved back. That is a tomorrow job hopefully. Struggled with starter wires, man there aint a lot of room there. Am running them as they originally were so I need a little more adjusting to get them bolted up. I have the header pipes and mufflers ordered from Classic Exhaust and need to write a check to Walt for his chambered and tipped tailpipes. Need to get the factory style hangers too.

 

Thanks, Joe - I think that motor will make a fine driver once I get it fixed up.

And I can attest that that 442 is lookin' good!

- Eric

 

Well at least I got something done today. I got the starter wires on and connected the other ends to the junction block. Took some doing fitting things but am satisfied with the results. Z bar does not rub wires and they are real clear of the exhaust manifold... this is a good thing! Got my parking brake cable mounted right, Tweed will be happy lol. Radiator is in and straight and the top plate mounted. Now that I have the rubber cushions I could get a better measurement and weld the brackets where they belong. I still need to mount and fit the fan shroud and see about spacing the clutch fan. Fiddled some more with the shifter and aligned neutral but reverse is still a bear to find and engage. I may need to try a different shifter.

 

Only had today to fiddle with the 442. Yesterday we had a family get together...it was nice. My exhaust came from Classic Exhaust. The head pipes were cut in 2, I guess for easier shipping. They were marked and can either be clamped or welded back together but now there is another variable as to how much to slide em in to each other. Guess I need to order all the hangers and fit everything just right before clamping or welding. The repop tailpipes have been ordered! I got the shifter wotking....I did I DUH on that. Tried actually pushing in the clutch this time (after installing rest of linkage). It works great! I still need to hook up a return spring. I almost have my fan shroud installed. I had to make the mounts. I also got the speedo cable hooked up. OPG called, I guess they did not like the rating I gave them. They will take back the radiator. I asked if they were sure I would not be getting another radiator with a small lower outlet pipe. They said if I sent measurements they would check their stock. Will see what happens tomorrow with that.

 

Lookin good Joe!! Looks like you almost ran out of travel on your parking brake adjuster? (almost is OK)!! LOL. Where did you get the insulated aesbestos sheath for your starter wires? Is that a "tailor-made" item for the Olds? I fould the one i am using at a tractor supply store and cut it to fit my lenght. Mine almost looks like a heater hose but it has the 'aesbestos' insulation-type lining in it.

 

you can always use those stainless sleeves instead of clamps or weld to couple your pipes together. With these you have room to slide to suit your length before tightening. No fussing with welding or pipe expanding woes!! And besides it even makes the installation and removal much esier!!

 

There is a little adjustment left but not a whole lot on that cable. That sheath I got on ebay. A guy there is sellin the stuff. 3/4 is what I used and it was tough getting it thru the tube. It is a jute type material with a cotton or maybe asbestos/fiberglass inner lining and a black tar like outside coating. It is a cut to fit type thing.

 

Nice work, been following your progress and it's looking great. Keep the updates coming.

 

Sounds exactly what i have but just a differnt color on the outside. If your intermediate cable is an old one it may be stretched some and that would be reason for almost running out of adjustment. Only other thing would be that if there is a different hole for the little guide wire on one side or the other that would pul it a little further? Pix look nice! Is your trans a correct 67? I thought they didnt put the speeo inlet on the pass side until 69? but what do i know?? My 69 GTO even came from factory with a 2-piece speedo cable -- Looked like they used a cable for a driver side trans mount and then had an extension housing about 20" long to reach to the pass side.! Always did think that was a little "hokey" for a factory application??

 

I got this trans out of a 67 442 I parted many years ago. I believe it is the original trans (did not date code it) and that the speedo port was on the passenger side for 67. I can page thru the shop manual to see for sure. I think Chevy had the port on the driver's side.

 

Probably is the difference. The 68 Camaro that i have in my shop right now has original trans and speedo is on driver side! I would have no clue why they would make two different ones? sure seems like a senseless tooling or parts redundency to me?

 

Glad you are a follower, Thanks. Am using this forum as a logbook for myself and hope it is interesting to others as well.

 

Some progress was made today but just little stuff. Got the throttle rod on and bolted the carb on. It aint pretty but should work for the engine break-in. My exhaust hangers came but still I am waiting for the repro tailpipes so I can fit everything. The radiator shroud was mounted. It is an original 67 piece but does not cover the entire radiator. I dont know if it is supposed to be that way. Got some hoses on and now I need to round up a new thermal clutch fan with the right length shaft. This means its time to start digging in the basement!

 

Looking good! Your fan shroud is just like the one on my '67. When you get your fan you may have to pull the shroud off to bolt it on. That shroud is a rare part, treat it with lots of TLC.

 

Thanks, and Thanks for the shroud info.

 

Lookin good Joe - Your shroud pic makes me wanna run right to shop and look at mine to see how it compares? I didnt think mine was that "short" on the inlet side? I do know that mine is original and came on my A/C cutlass 330. Its easy to bolt fan on and off just by removing top shroud bolts and pushing back toward block to give you room to work. Gonna check mine and report back later today.
Also -- when ya gonna do sumptin about that old rusty master cyl in the pic?? LOL!!

 

That master cyl is NOS and not painted. It is getting a little rusty but they all did. Its for a manual brake but front disc unit. That is what was on there when I got it as well....heard ya get better braking with manual brakes and this type cause the piston is larger....thats what I heard anyway... I also think I need a clutch return spring for the pedal. I put one on the rod that moves the fork but the clutch pedal does not spring all the way back if I adjust it like the book says.

 

jOE - Just use a spray clear-coat on those cast-iron parts to retain the original cast color and prevent the rust. Steering box too. You can put an under-dash clutch pedal return spring if you want to - its not necessary -- the pedal will just "hang" there without a spring on it. I would imagine any hardware store spring of suitable tension would work rather than trying to find an "original"??
Keep up the good work --- send more pics!!

 

Yeah, clear will look better than rust, I will try that. I made a bracket that goes on the 2 unused bolts under the master cylinder that are there for a power brake booster. Need to go to the hardware store for a proper spring. I will post some picts when I install that and hopefully it works.

 

I'm curious if your 67 has the brake pedal "stop".

My 66 does not, there is nothing under there to stop the pedal except the brake switch.
When i did my conversion last year over to disks, i had a mishap with one MC and it shot the brake switch right out of its housing (since its only plastic w/ threads)

Since i also have manual brakes (disk as well) i do have brake pedal return spring.
The spring was strong enough to continue pushing that switch out of its "fingers" after that initial problem. Finnaly replaced the switch so the threads would hold ok- problem solved, but still wonder how come there is no brake pedal stop.

My neighbor has a 66 chevelle(auto car) and i looked under his dash and his pedal has a big factory rubber stopper above the brake switch to keep the pedal from doing what mine did- the metal surrouinding the stop & the switch is totally different from whats holding my brake switch on.

Wonder if it is a automatic vs manual thing or just something that was goofy in early 66 cars and they fixed it later.

 

I am not sure, I can check next time I am there, the clutch pedal has a rubber bumper on the stop but I dont know about the brake pedal. I think the only assistance is the spring inside the master cylinder that pushes the pedal back.

 

Hi Joe, I'm still enjoying your project. Lookin' good!
My trak-pak is in paint shop..hope to have it out by end of month.
A couple of comments....my 67 4-speed also has speedo port on pass side. Autozone cable & housing was plenty long enough to reach.
My fan shroud covers entire radiator. Maybe yours is 6-cyl???
Sounds like you are having issues with radiator lower outlet size. I have same problem....can't find molded hose small enough and can't determine what kind of rad I have (I know it is replacement 3 row) so I have to use ugly flex hose right now. I bought Year1 pipes but haven't installed them so don't yet have opinion on quality (they look ok). Since I work and live near Year1 it was a matter of conveinance.
Keep up the good work....Mike

 

Miked, can you post a picture of your shroud? I know mine is 67 Cutlass original is yours? I welcome the information and hope the painting goes well! What color?.... OPG said all of their radiators had 1 1/2 inch inlets and outlets while all my radiators have a 1 13/16 or about lower outlets. It is clear these are not Olds radiators but include Olds in their listings... funny how it seems I am the only one (according to them) that ever had a problem!

 

Tailpipes came today, just beautiful! Hope to play with the exhaust tomorrow. I have a new thermostatic clutch for the fan. Got to pick a fan blade for that. Have a 7 blade from a 67 toro, an aluminum 6 blade from a 68 Delta, and a couple of 6 blade 66 B body blades to pick from.

 

Wow those are awesome!
Can i ask how much they set you back?

 

They were around 428.00 plus another 20 or so for shipping. Walts are right on crimped and chambered inside... I recommend.

 

I know mine isn't a 442, but i'm definitely getting a set of those when i do my exhaust. Awesome.

Really Not a bad price either considering what they are.

 

Rambow, saw no helper/return spring on the brake pedal....

Ok so I have all the exhaust pieces but as usual ran into some problems.... Passenger side went pretty well but found the tailpipe ends were a little too small to slide on to the mufflers. Had to take some metal off the inside of the tailpipes and some off the outlet pipe of the muffler. I guess the tailpipes were not expanded quite enough. The driver's side fought me. I had to modify 1 flange stud to get it to clear the knuckle on the frame for lower control arm. It was too long and needed more threads manifold side. Then the pipes were too long by a couple of inches so I had to cut some off. I have everything hung now loosely.... I need more adjustment on some of the pipes to get them to sit right. I will not hard clamp till bumpers are on for proper tail pipe position. Got my spring on for the clutch return and fiddled with the clutch fan. I do need a spacer but am spacing the clutch fan assembly so the regular fan adapters may not work. They get bolted on while the clutch fan assembly has short studs in the water pump and uses nuts and lock washers. I need about an inch so fan blades are further into the shroud.

 

Joe - and all --
About your radiator hose outlet size problem? I have BOTH situations with my two factory 67 cars. - I has a large bottom outlet and one has a smaller outlet -- both factory radiators!! On the one with the smaller lower outlet there is supplied a rubber "bushing" that takes up the space in the molded hose --- Problem solved!! I am reasonably sure that this bushing was supplied/installed at factory. So to solve your "ugly flex hose" problem --- get you one of those rubber "space-taker-upper" collars for your outlet! I actually encountered this dilemma when i went to get my radiator flushed and cleaned. I noticed the two different sizes and that outlet bushing/collar when i removed them from the cars and so I decided to use the one with the larger outlet to get reconditioned for use in the project car! I just stuck that rubber collar back on the outlet snout of the radiator that I am not using and it is sitting right there on my shelf!!!

 

Joe -
I will measure the width of my shroud next time i am out at shop ( if i can remember). My mind tells me it covers the entire radiator but in reality, it may be just like yours - "short" on draincock side. Also your clutch return spring looks a little "hokey" there but it looks like it will do the job. I thought you were going to affix the spring to the pedal under the dash - thats where you usually find them although I checked out my 4 speed car looking for one - or for evidence of mounting holes and/or tabs for one and couldnt find a trace. Does the assy manual show one?

 

Tweed, I dont think there was a return spring for the pedal. No place under dash that I can see that would be easy to do. Where I have it seems like it will work great, nothing modified and can be removed easily. I am happy with it. This car will be no trailer queen or show piece. Hopefully its a nice driver that looks decent. Thanks for the radiator info. I had the larger outlet tube installed on the radiator and the factory style molded hose is a perfect fit. If I remember correctly I installed a Toro or 88 radiator in my other 442 and it was longer but fit in the A body with no room to spare, much like this aftermarket one. Maybe thats why the shroud seems to come up short?

 

Great info on the rad outlet bushing. Do you know of those are available anywhere or any ideas on what could be substituted? I think that would resolve my problem! Thnx, Miked

 

I would think just cut a ring out of a piece of correct size hose for the bushing and put the molded hose over that and clamp?