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Lookin' good! Love that color! I too was under the impression all W-25 hoods were black underneath. All the ones I ever had were, including the current one.
Yes the underside is supposed to be black but I did not negotiate that with the shop because I forgot (doh!)...he wanted to charge me more so I’m going to get it done at a later time as I’ve spent enough money as it is, at least it was an agreed flat rate and not by # of hours
Looking fine, you must be on a high, reaching this milestone in the restoration. Nordic blue is a pleasant color, which you hardly see, as most due the more vivid color, Viking Blue. Nice job for sure, hope reassembly goes well.
Well major milestone now checked , the body got 4 coats of base and 4 coats of clear. Here is what I got today after clear was applied. I’m super excited, looos just like what I wanted. Can’t wait to see it in person !
Next is cut and buff and stripes. I chose to do the vinyl
stripes, black. This way if I want to go with white stripes in the future I can .
Back with a few more image updates. After the first round of wet sand they want to spray two more coats of clear so here is the results. More wet sand and buff and vinyl stripes next week.
Wicked shiny!
So I take it stripes are next?
Now its all buffed, do you mask for stripes, scuff where stripes are going, paint and then re-clear the whole car? Just curious about process.
Wicked shiny!
So I take it stripes are next?
Now its all buffed, do you mask for stripes, scuff where stripes are going, paint and then re-clear the whole car? Just curious about process.
I opted for the vinyl decals versus having them painted on so I’m really not sure what’s next in terms of how the paint now been finished buffed and polished. He said they will be doing them tomorrow so I just asked a bunch of questions via email
Hey guys, got some more updates and 1 small setback.
The setback is they vinyl strips had imperfections (see below) so the new ones arrive to the shop directly on Monday - hoping they are good so they can get the stripes on because I was supposed to get the var back today
The update is I finally got the heads ! I get the rest of the parts Wed I think.
and also here are a few shots of the car in the sun
Back with big progress....Stripes are on, weather stripping is installed, and...I’m picking it up tomorrow AM !!
I cant wait to geT the Rally wheels on, these 14’s with hub caps are just ugly ! But Wow this car has transformed big time, I think my wife finally sees it LOL
1st thing I’m going when I get it home is putting the fender and trunk emblems on and then the bumpers, etc...
Well Friday was not meant to be, as I pulled up at U-Haul to grab the auto trailer the shop called me to let me know they put a chip into the door edge of the driver door They tried to fix it night before but he wasn’t happy with the blend, and then ran out of paint. Looking at Wednesday now for pickup....
So I was at least able to get some motor work done.
I put on the heads and torqued them down.
I put on the guide plates and the rocker studs and torqued them down as well
I then measured for my pushrods, which I came to a final length needed of 9.3 and here is how I did it...
Gross valve lift = max valve lift / 2 —> (.571 / 2) = .2855
Thread pitch = 7/16th stud = 20 Threads per in (TPI) = .05” per turn
Turns needed to lower rocker arm below 90 degree mark = .2855 / .05 = 5.71 turns
I then marked the centerline on the rocker so that I could place it on the stud and valve retainer plate and find the 90 degree location of the rocker in relation to the retainer plate.
Once I have it parallel to my line on the rocker, I then completed my 5.71 turns on the rocker stud to lower the rocker arm. The achieves the rocker being at 90 degrees when Max valve lift occurs. I pulled the adjustable pushrod out and measured... 9.3 inches
I also decided to rest the intake on top for a mock up...getting super close !
So I finally brought her home today ! Overall I am very pleased with the paint. I have found some minor issues but noting I cant deal with and address on my own. Didn’t have much time to go over it as I had a busy at work as well.
Car looks good and you made short work of it. I like the color combo a lot. The whole look will change dramatically with the wheels and tires and I anxiously await.
some reassembly progress
I installed the wheels (still need to balance), wheel well chrome trim, fender emblems (i need to take out the wheel well to secure with speed nuts still). I installed all of the new grill parts as well as the headlights (these Dapper lights are really nice and a great fit). Also got the drip rail chrome molding back on.
Have not done the windshield front or rear yet as I want to add a new layer of sealant.
I still have the entire interior to reassemble but I also have to clean up the rear package tray, its covered in primer dust, and my windows are covered in over spray I'm having to scrape off - def not happy about the clean up that wasn't done.
AND they didn't use the 3M weather strip adhesive I supplied, thy just tucked the weather stripping in and sent it on to me as if completed.... Their phone will be ringing later today from me on this.
Back with another update. I haven finished The interior install because I received my pushrods finally so I decided to finish the top end of the motor
I also tackled the very pain in the @$$ step of the emblems, Ill let the images speak for themselves....its done an they look great.
As far as the top end of the motor goes, pushrods installed and all rockers are set. Intake installed and torqued as well as spark plugs (NKG’s) gapped and installed. I also went with the wire looms you see in the images, Love it ! I also have the dizzy set in while #1 is at TDC and I added on the power master mini starter since I went with headers
So close !! Ill bolt on the headers as well for a test fit today/tomorrow.
Well I'm back with some more minor updates. I got the interior all back together and I have buttoned up the motor.
I'm waiting to see when I can get the motor on the Engine dyno, assume it will be in the next 2-3 weeks.
After the motor dyno session I will be taking off the hood and fenders so I don't even have a chance of screwing up the paint when the old motor comes out and I drop the new on in.
Here is a shot of the car and the motor with the headers on as a test fit only - I will not be running these at the engine dyno / break in
I also had left over fuel line from my C6 vette so I used that for the fuel pump to carb run. I also measured and got a belt so I can run the water pump on the engine dyno.
Hey there members, I'm back with an update (sort of)...I have been slammed at work and watching my kids so I haven't had any time to work on the 442. My wife is an essential worker so shes gone 6 days a week these days so 442 has been under a car cover in the garage.
However I did install my Dapper lighting headlights with Halo's - I like them a lot...its a subtle change and def a modern enhancement. I also wired it to integrate into my turn signals.
My motor is ready, I just need to decide, do I spend the $$ and get it Dyno'd before I drop it in...or just drop it in and roll the dice ??
Just a question- do you want the dyno sheet for bragging rights or...? No difference in power it will make whether you dyno it or not. It should be fun to drive regardless. Besides, if you know, then you'll just want more. Happens all the time.
I ran my engine on a test stand stand before installing, it’s a good way to break in the cam and check everything, I’ve had my car on a dyno a few times.
I ran my engine on a test stand stand before installing, it’s a good way to break in the cam and check everything, I’ve had my car on a dyno a few times.
X2. Then after the installed it was "plug and play" on the 67 ( sold the car a few years ago)
I like the fuel line set up from the pump to the Q-jet. What did you use for the fittings by chance, especially on the pump? Thanks.
Thanks guys..Ill spend the money. This way if I have a leak, etc...easier to take care of...I do want plug n play...last thing I need is my wife yelling at me in my own garage cause I missed something LOL
Wow!
Honestly I have to admit that I didn't think I'd like the look of those headlights but they really do look cool. Nice job on the adaptation. Sorry to hear that life is challenging but I think we all are hitting that stride right now so don't worry about frequency of updates. The car is beautiful and you've done a really nice job detailing it's progress through text and pictures. Thank you for doing that.
Far as the engine goes, I personally would just drop it in and go. Dyno is nice but unless you're taking the car to the track I really don't think it's necessary. For bragging rights it's ok but money could be spent on more important things like your kids IMHO. Kudos to your wife and yourself for making the most of a pandemic situation.
Wow!
Honestly I have to admit that I didn't think I'd like the look of those headlights but they really do look cool. Nice job on the adaptation. Sorry to hear that life is challenging but I think we all are hitting that stride right now so don't worry about frequency of updates. The car is beautiful and you've done a really nice job detailing it's progress through text and pictures. Thank you for doing that.
Far as the engine goes, I personally would just drop it in and go. Dyno is nice but unless you're taking the car to the track I really don't think it's necessary. For bragging rights it's ok but money could be spent on more important things like your kids IMHO. Kudos to your wife and yourself for making the most of a pandemic situation.
Thanks Allan - that $$ could go to good use on the kiddos...back to school in 2 weeks - Fingers crossed !!
Thanks brians1.We have a HUGE Summiit warehouse here in the Dallas area. Last week in the entry on display was this absolutely sick Rolls. Unbelievable car, has to be a 250K $$$$ build.
Hey guys, back with another update.
I finally got around to the brake upgrade which was on my must have list for safety before the motor goes in.
I was able to squeeze a Wilwood 6 piston caliber on an 11 inch rotor up front while still running my 15’s I did a lot of measuring and a lot of chatting with an engineer @ Wilwood. Their customer service was fantastic. I did need 8mm worth of spacing to clear the far edges of the caliber and I still had plenty of thread engagement to get torqued. On the back I’m running a 4 piston on an 11 inch rotor, I also ran Wilwood’s emergency brake cable system - its pretty basic and does the job
I am also using their master cylinder and proportioning value setup which is pretty nice. I did have to make a few brake lines but that was easy.
Zero leaks, using my motive pressure bleeder I hooked it up and system was bled in 20 min.
Brian, what can I say but WOW!!! Now you're definitely going to need that 455 for that brake setup. BTW if your OEM front disc brake setup is original, there are people who want OEM for their conversion from drum to disc. The OEM rotors (with that middle groove) are unobtainium on the parts market.
Brian, what can I say but WOW!!! Now you're definitely going to need that 455 for that brake setup. BTW if your OEM front disc brake setup is original, there are people who want OEM for their conversion from drum to disc. The OEM rotors (with that middle groove) are unobtainium on the parts market.
thanks Allan
yes I’m going to list the front disk setup in the AM in the for sale section.
I think that is the original color on my '68 4-4-2. I like it!
